TEDYouth 2015
Danit Peleg: Forget shopping. Soon you'll download your new clothes
Danit Peleg: Zaboravite na kupovinu. Uskoro ćete preuzimati svoju novu odeću sa Interneta
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1,815,304 views
Dostupna preko Interneta, odeća pogodna za štampanje možda uskoro stiže u obližnji orman. Ono što je počelo kao modni školski projekat dizajnerke Danit Peleg, uskoro se pretvorilo u kolekciju štampanih 3D modela koje imaju jačinu i fleksibilnost svakodnevne odeće. „Moda je veoma fizička stvar”, kaže ona. „Pitam se kako će naš svet izgledati kada naša odeća bude digitalna.”
Danit Peleg - Fashion designer
Danit Peleg created the first 3D-printed fashion collection printed entirely using home printers. Full bio
Danit Peleg created the first 3D-printed fashion collection printed entirely using home printers. Full bio
Double-click the English transcript below to play the video.
00:06
In the past few months, I've been
traveling for weeks at a time
traveling for weeks at a time
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Proteklih par meseci,
putovala sam nedeljama
putovala sam nedeljama
00:10
with only one suitcase of clothes.
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sa samo jednim koferom odeće.
00:12
One day, I was invited
to an important event,
to an important event,
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Jednog dana, pozvana sam na važan događaj,
00:14
and I wanted to wear
something special and new for it.
something special and new for it.
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i želela sam da obučem
nešto posebno za tu priliku.
nešto posebno za tu priliku.
00:17
So I looked through my suitcase
and I couldn't find anything to wear.
and I couldn't find anything to wear.
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Tako da sam pretražila kofer
i nisam mogla tako nešto da nađem.
i nisam mogla tako nešto da nađem.
Srećom, toga dana sam bila
na tehnološkoj konferenciji
na tehnološkoj konferenciji
00:21
I was lucky to be at the technology
conference on that day,
conference on that day,
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00:24
and I had access to 3D printers.
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i imala sam pristup 3D štampačima.
00:27
So I quickly designed
a skirt on my computer,
a skirt on my computer,
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Brzo sam dizajnirala suknju
na mom računaru,
na mom računaru,
00:29
and I loaded the file on the printer.
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i učitala datoteku na štampač.
00:31
It just printed the pieces overnight.
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On je preko noći ištampao delove.
00:34
The next morning,
I just took all the pieces,
I just took all the pieces,
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Sledećeg jutra,
samo sam uzela sve delove,
samo sam uzela sve delove,
00:36
assembled them together in my hotel room,
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i spojila ih u svojoj hotelskoj sobi,
00:38
and this is actually the skirt
that I'm wearing right now.
that I'm wearing right now.
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i to je zapravo suknja koju sada nosim.
00:41
(Applause)
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(Aplauz)
00:45
So it wasn't the first time
that I printed clothes.
that I printed clothes.
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To nije bio prvi put
da sam štampala odeću.
da sam štampala odeću.
Za moju matursku kolekciju
na modnoj dizajnerskoj školi,
na modnoj dizajnerskoj školi,
00:47
For my senior collection
at fashion design school,
at fashion design school,
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00:50
I decided to try and 3D print
an entire fashion collection from my home.
an entire fashion collection from my home.
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odlučila sam da pokušam da ištampam
čitavu modnu kolekciju od kuće, u 3D-u.
čitavu modnu kolekciju od kuće, u 3D-u.
00:55
The problem was that I barely knew
anything about 3D printing,
anything about 3D printing,
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Problem je bio u tome
da nisam skoro ništa znala o 3D štampanju,
da nisam skoro ništa znala o 3D štampanju,
00:58
and I had only nine months to figure out
how to print five fashionable looks.
how to print five fashionable looks.
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i imala sam samo devet meseci da shvatim
kako da ištampam pet modernih komada.
kako da ištampam pet modernih komada.
01:04
I always felt most creative
when I worked from home.
when I worked from home.
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Uvek sam bila najkreativnija
kada sam radila od kuće.
kada sam radila od kuće.
01:07
I loved experimenting with new materials,
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Volela sam da eksperimentišem
sa novim materijalima,
sa novim materijalima,
01:09
and I always tried
to develop new techniques
to develop new techniques
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i uvek sam pokušavala
da razvijem nove tehnike
da razvijem nove tehnike
01:12
to make the most unique textiles
for my fashion projects.
for my fashion projects.
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za pravljenje jedinstvenih tkanina
za moje modne projekte.
za moje modne projekte.
Volela sam da posećujem stare fabrike
ili čudne prodavnice
ili čudne prodavnice
01:16
I loved going to old factories
and weird stores
and weird stores
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01:18
in search of leftovers
of strange powders and weird materials,
of strange powders and weird materials,
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u potrazi za ostacima čudnih praškova
i čudnih materijala,
i čudnih materijala,
01:23
and then bring them home to experiment on.
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i onda sam ih donosila kući
da eksperimentišem.
da eksperimentišem.
01:26
As you can probably imagine,
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Kao što možete da zamislite,
01:27
my roommates didn't like that at all.
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mojim cimerima se to uopšte nije svidelo.
01:29
(Laughter)
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(Smeh)
01:30
So I decided to move on
to working with big machines,
to working with big machines,
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Tako da sam odlučila da se prebacim
na rad sa velikim mašinama,
na rad sa velikim mašinama,
01:34
ones that didn't fit in my living room.
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koje nisu mogle da stanu
u moju dnevnu sobu.
u moju dnevnu sobu.
Sviđa mi se rad po narudžbini
koji mogu da napravim
koji mogu da napravim
01:36
I love the exact
and the custom work I can do
and the custom work I can do
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01:39
with all kinds of fashion technologies,
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uz pomoć raznih modnih tehnologija,
01:41
like knitting machines
and laser cutting and silk printing.
and laser cutting and silk printing.
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kao što su mašine za štrikanje,
lasersko sečenje i štampanje svile.
lasersko sečenje i štampanje svile.
01:45
One summer break, I came here
to New York for an internship
to New York for an internship
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Tokom letnjeg raspusta,
došla sam u Njujork radi prakse
došla sam u Njujork radi prakse
01:49
at a fashion house in Chinatown.
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u modnoj kući u Kineskoj četvrti.
01:51
We worked on two incredible dresses
that were 3D printed.
that were 3D printed.
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Radili smo na dve neverovatne haljine
koje smo ištampali u 3D-u.
koje smo ištampali u 3D-u.
01:56
They were amazing --
like you can see here.
like you can see here.
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Bile su divne -
kao što možete da vidite.
kao što možete da vidite.
01:59
But I had a few issues with them.
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Ipak, imala sam neke probleme sa njima.
02:00
They were made from hard plastics
and that's why they were very breakable.
and that's why they were very breakable.
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Bile su napravljene od čvrste plastike
i zbog toga su bile veoma lomljive.
i zbog toga su bile veoma lomljive.
Modeli nisu mogli da sede u njima,
02:05
The models couldn't sit in them,
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čak su se i izgrebale
o plastiku kod pazuha.
o plastiku kod pazuha.
02:06
and they even got scratched
from the plastics under their arms.
from the plastics under their arms.
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02:10
With 3D printing, the designers
had so much freedom
had so much freedom
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Sa 3D štampanjem,
dizajneri su dobili slobodu
dizajneri su dobili slobodu
02:13
to make the dresses look
exactly like they wanted,
exactly like they wanted,
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da prave haljine
koje izgledaju baš kao što su zamislili,
02:17
but still, they were very dependent
on big and expensive industrial printers
on big and expensive industrial printers
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ipak, opet su veoma zavisili
od velikih i skupih industrijskih štampača
od velikih i skupih industrijskih štampača
02:22
that were located in a lab
far from their studio.
far from their studio.
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koji su se nalazili u laboratorijama
daleko od njihovih ateljea.
daleko od njihovih ateljea.
02:26
Later that year, a friend gave me
a 3D printed necklace,
a 3D printed necklace,
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Posle te godine, prijatelj mi je poklonio
3D ištampanu ogrlicu,
3D ištampanu ogrlicu,
02:30
printed using a home printer.
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ištampanu na kućnom štampaču.
02:32
I knew that these printers
were much cheaper
were much cheaper
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Znala sam da su ovi štampači
mnogo jeftiniji
mnogo jeftiniji
02:34
and much more accessible
than the ones we used at my internship.
than the ones we used at my internship.
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i mnogo pristupačniji od onih
koje smo koristili na mojoj praksi.
koje smo koristili na mojoj praksi.
02:38
So I looked at the necklace,
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Pogledala sam ogrlicu,
02:39
and then I thought, "If I can
print a necklace from home,
print a necklace from home,
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i pomislila: „Ako mogu da ištampam ogrlicu
od kuće,
02:43
why not print my clothes from home, too?"
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zašto da ne ištampam i odeću od kuće?”
02:46
I really liked the idea that I wouldn't
have to go to the market
have to go to the market
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Veoma mi se svidela ideja
da neću morati da idem u prodavnicu
da neću morati da idem u prodavnicu
02:49
and pick fabrics that
someone else chose to sell --
someone else chose to sell --
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i biram materijale
koje neko drugi izabere da proda -
koje neko drugi izabere da proda -
02:52
I could just design them
and print them directly from home.
and print them directly from home.
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mogu jednostavno da ih dizajniram
i ištampam pravo od kuće.
i ištampam pravo od kuće.
02:57
I found a small makerspace,
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Pronašla sam mali veb seminar,
02:59
where I learned everything
I know about 3D printing.
I know about 3D printing.
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gde sam naučila sve što sada znam
o štampanju u 3D-u.
o štampanju u 3D-u.
03:02
Right away, they literally
gave me the key to the lab,
gave me the key to the lab,
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Bukvalno odmah su mi dali ključ
od laboratorije,
od laboratorije,
03:05
so I could experiment
into the night, every night.
into the night, every night.
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tako da sam mogla
da eksperimentišem noću, svake noći.
da eksperimentišem noću, svake noći.
03:08
The main challenge was to find the right
filament for printing clothes with.
filament for printing clothes with.
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Glavni izazov je bio da pronađem vlakno
pogodno za štampanje odeće.
pogodno za štampanje odeće.
03:12
So what is a filament?
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Dakle, šta je vlakno?
Vlakno je materijal
kojim hranite štampač.
kojim hranite štampač.
03:13
Filament is the material
you feed the printer with.
you feed the printer with.
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03:16
And I spent a month or so
experimenting with PLA,
experimenting with PLA,
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Tako da sam oko mesec dana
eksperimentisala sa PLK-om,
eksperimentisala sa PLK-om,
03:19
which is a hard and scratchy,
breakable material.
breakable material.
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koji je čvrst i lako grebljiv,
lomljiv materijal.
lomljiv materijal.
03:23
The breakthrough came
when I was introduced to Filaflex,
when I was introduced to Filaflex,
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Pomak se desio
kada sam pronašla Filafleks
kada sam pronašla Filafleks
03:25
which is a new kind of filament.
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koje je nova vrsta vlakna.
03:27
It's strong, yet very flexible.
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Jak je, ali veoma fleksibilan.
03:29
And with it, I was able to print
the first garment,
the first garment,
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I na njemu, mogla sam da ištampam
prvi komad odeće,
prvi komad odeće,
03:33
the red jacket that had
the word "Liberté" --
the word "Liberté" --
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crvenu jaknu
koja je imala ušiven natpis „Liberté” -
koja je imala ušiven natpis „Liberté” -
03:37
"freedom" in French --
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sloboda na francuskom.
03:38
embedded into it.
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03:39
I chose this word because I felt
so empowered and free
so empowered and free
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Izabrala sam ovu reč
jer sam se osećala osnaženo i slobodno
jer sam se osećala osnaženo i slobodno
jer sam mogla da dizajniram komad
03:42
when I could just design
a garment from my home
a garment from my home
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od kuće
03:44
and then print it by myself.
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i sama da ga ištampam.
03:47
And actually, you can easily
download this jacket,
download this jacket,
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I zapravo, možete lako
da preuzmete ovu jaknu sa Interneta,
da preuzmete ovu jaknu sa Interneta,
03:51
and easily change the word
to something else.
to something else.
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i jednostavno promenite reč
u neku drugu.
u neku drugu.
03:53
For example, your name
or your sweetheart's name.
or your sweetheart's name.
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Na primer, u vaše ime
ili ime vašeg partnera.
ili ime vašeg partnera.
03:57
(Laughter)
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(Smeh)
03:58
So the printer plates are small,
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Dakle, ploče štampača su male,
04:00
so I had to piece the garment
together, just like a puzzle.
together, just like a puzzle.
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tako da sam slagala delove komada,
kao što bih slagala slagalicu.
kao što bih slagala slagalicu.
Želela sam da se izborim
sa još jednim izazovom.
sa još jednim izazovom.
04:05
And I wanted to solve another challenge.
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04:08
I wanted to print textiles
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Želela sam da štampam tkanine
04:09
that I would use
just like regular fabrics.
just like regular fabrics.
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koje bih koristila
kao i uobičajene materijale.
kao i uobičajene materijale.
04:12
That's when I found an open-source file
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Tada sam pronašla datoteku otvorenog tipa
04:14
from an architect who designed
a pattern that I love.
a pattern that I love.
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koju je započeo dizajner
uzorka koji obožavam.
uzorka koji obožavam.
04:16
And with it, I was able to print
a beautiful textile
a beautiful textile
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Sa tim, mogla sam da ištampam
predivnu tkaninu
predivnu tkaninu
04:19
that I would use
just like a regular fabric.
just like a regular fabric.
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koju sam koristila
baš kao i uobičajene materijale.
baš kao i uobičajene materijale.
04:22
And it actually even looks
a little bit like lace.
a little bit like lace.
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Čak pomalo liči na čipku.
04:26
So I took his file and I modified it,
and changed it, played with it --
and changed it, played with it --
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Uzela sam ovu datoteku, prilagodila je,
izmenila je, igrala se sa njom -
izmenila je, igrala se sa njom -
04:30
many kinds of versions out of it.
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sa njenim mnogobrojnim verzijama.
04:33
And I needed to print
another 1,500 more hours
another 1,500 more hours
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Trebalo je da štampam još 1500 sati
04:37
to complete printing my collection.
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da bih završila
sa štampanjem moje kolekcije.
sa štampanjem moje kolekcije.
04:40
So I brought six printers to my home
and just printed 24-7.
and just printed 24-7.
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Tako da sam ponela šest štampača kući
i samo štampala po ceo dan svakog dana.
i samo štampala po ceo dan svakog dana.
04:44
And this is actually
a really slow process,
a really slow process,
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Ovo je zapravo veoma spor proces,
04:47
but let's remember the Internet
was significantly slower 20 years ago,
was significantly slower 20 years ago,
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no hajde da se prisetimo
da je Internet bio mnogo sporiji
da je Internet bio mnogo sporiji
pre 20 godina,
04:51
so 3D printing will also accelerate
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tako da će se i 3D štampanje ubrzati
04:53
and in no time you'll be able to print
a T-Shirt in your home
a T-Shirt in your home
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i za kratko vreme moći ćete
da štampate majice kod kuće
da štampate majice kod kuće
04:56
in just a couple of hours,
or even minutes.
or even minutes.
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za samo nekoliko sati,
ili čak nekoliko minuta.
ili čak nekoliko minuta.
Dakle, narode
želite li da vidite kako to izgleda?
želite li da vidite kako to izgleda?
05:00
So you guys, you want to see
what it looks like?
what it looks like?
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Publika: Da!
05:02
Audience: Yeah!
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(Aplauz)
05:03
(Applause)
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05:07
Danit Peleg: Rebecca is wearing
one of my five outfits.
one of my five outfits.
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Danit Peleg: Rebeka je obučena
u jednu od mojih pet kombinacija.
u jednu od mojih pet kombinacija.
05:11
Almost everything here she's wearing,
I printed from my home.
I printed from my home.
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Skoro sve što ona nosi,
ja sam štampala kod kuće.
ja sam štampala kod kuće.
05:16
Even her shoes are printed.
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Čak i njene cipele su štampane.
05:18
Audience: Wow!
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Publika: Vau!
05:20
Audience: Cool!
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Publika: Kul!
05:23
(Applause)
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(Aplauz)
05:25
Danit Peleg: Thank you, Rebecca.
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Danit Peleg: Hvala ti, Rebeka.
05:27
(To audience) Thank you, guys.
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(Publici) Hvala vam, narode.
05:30
So I think in the future,
materials will evolve,
materials will evolve,
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Mislim da će se u budućnosti,
materijali razviti,
materijali razviti,
05:32
and they will look and feel
like fabrics we know today,
like fabrics we know today,
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i izgledaće i biti na dodir
kao i tkanine za koje znamo danas,
kao i tkanine za koje znamo danas,
05:36
like cotton or silk.
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kao pamuk ili svila.
05:38
Imagine personalized clothes
that fit exactly to your measurements.
that fit exactly to your measurements.
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Zamislite personalizovanu odeću
koja tačno odgovara vašim merama.
koja tačno odgovara vašim merama.
05:45
Music was once a very physical thing.
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Muzika je nekada bila veoma fizička stvar.
05:47
You would have to go
to the record shop and buy CDs,
to the record shop and buy CDs,
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Morali ste da odete do prodavnice
i kupite CD-e,
05:50
but now you can just download the music --
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sada možete samo
da preuzmete muziku sa Interneta -
05:52
digital music --
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digitalnu muziku -
direktno na vaš telefon.
05:53
directly to your phone.
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05:56
Fashion is also a very physical thing.
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Moda je takođe veoma fizička stvar.
05:58
And I wonder what our world will look like
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Pitam se kako će naš svet izgledati
06:01
when our clothes will be digital,
just like this skirt is.
just like this skirt is.
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kada naša odeća postane digitalna,
baš kao što je i ova suknja.
baš kao što je i ova suknja.
06:05
Thank you so much.
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Hvala vam puno.
06:06
(Applause)
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06:08
[Thank You]
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[Hvala vam]
06:09
(Applause)
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ABOUT THE SPEAKER
Danit Peleg - Fashion designerDanit Peleg created the first 3D-printed fashion collection printed entirely using home printers.
Why you should listen
Danit Peleg has always been interested in the influence of technology on fashion design. For her projects, she develops her own textiles and experiments with various technologies such as laser cutting, screen-printing and 3D printing.
Peleg believes that technology will help democratize fashion and give designers more independence in the creation process. She graduated from Shenkar in 2015 and now advises designers and fashion houses on new technologies.
Danit Peleg | Speaker | TED.com