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Mindy Scheier: How adaptive clothing empowers people with disabilities

Mindy Scheier: Kako prilagođena odjeća osnažuje osobe s teškoćama

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Imate li omiljenu majicu ili traperice zbog kojih se osjećate samopouzdano -- zbog kojih se osjećate dobro? To je stoga što odjeća koju nosite, može utjecati na vaše raspoloženje, vaše zdravlje i vaše samopouzdanje, tvrdi modna dizajnerica Mindy Scheier. Inspirirana svojim sinom, rođenim s prirođenim, degenerativnim poremećajem zbog kojeg ima teškoća u odijevanju te s odjećom koje ima gumbe i zatvarače, Scheier je odlučila dizajnirati odjeću koju mogu nositi svi, pa tako i osobe s teškoćama. Otkrijmo zajedno kako je promijenila povijest mode stvorivši prvu komercijalnu liniju prilagođene odjeće.

- Fashion designer
Mindy Scheier is the founder of the Runway of Dreams Foundation. Prior to launching the nonprofit, Mindy spent over 20 years working in fashion as a key member of the design team for the INC collection and stylist for Saks Fifth Avenue in New York City. Full bio

I love fashion.
Obožavam modu.
00:12
I actually go to bed every night
thinking about what I'm going to wear
Svake večeri odlazim u krevet
i razmišljam što ću odjenuti
00:14
the next day.
sljedećeg dana.
00:18
Clothing transforms me,
Odjeća me mijenja,
00:20
defines me,
određuje,
00:23
gives me confidence.
čini me samouvjerenom.
00:24
You may not feel
the same way about fashion,
Možda nemate jednak stav prema modi,
00:26
but I bet you have a favorite T-shirt
or a pair of jeans that transforms you --
ali sigurno imate omiljenu majicu
ili traperice koje vas čine drugačijima --
00:29
makes you feel good,
u kojima se osjećate dobro,
00:35
makes you feel confident,
u kojima se osjećate samouvjereno
00:37
makes you feel like you.
i posebno.
00:39
When I was younger,
Kada sam bila mlađa,
00:41
I wanted to be Betsey Johnson.
željela sam izgledati kao Betsey Johnson.
00:43
I thought we were kindred,
crazy-hair spirits together.
Vjerovala sam da smo
srodne duše čupavih frizura.
00:45
I did go to fashion design,
Završila sam modni dizajn
00:49
I worked in the industry for years
i radila u modnoj industriji niz godina,
00:51
and loved it.
obožavala sam to.
00:53
I married,
Udala sam se
00:55
I had three kids.
i dobila troje djece.
00:57
But life can be heartbreakingly ironic.
Ali život zna biti okrutno ironičan.
00:59
My middle child, Oliver, was born
with a rare form of muscular dystrophy,
Srednje dijete, Oliver, rođen je
s rijetkim oblikom mišićne distrofije,
01:05
or MD.
skraćeno MD.
01:10
MD affects his muscle strength,
MD pogađa njegovu mišićnu snagu,
01:12
his pulmonary system,
njegov dišni sustav,
01:15
distorts his body
iskrivljuje mu tijelo,
01:17
and makes everyday life
more challenging than most.
što čini njegovu svakodnevicu
punom izazova.
01:18
From the time he could walk,
Od trenutka kada je prohodao,
01:22
which wasn't until about two and a half,
s nekih dvije, dvije i pol godine,
01:23
he had to wear leg braces for stability.
morao je nositi proteze zbog stabilnosti.
01:25
Because he wasn't growing appropriately,
Uslijed teškoća u razvoju,
01:28
he had to wear a feeding tube
that was placed on his face.
morao se hraniti putem sonde
vidljive na njegovom licu.
01:30
He endured stares, and so did I.
Trpio je poglede i ja zajedno s njim.
01:34
But my husband Greg and I told him
Moj suprug Greg i ja smo mu govorili
01:38
that no matter what,
da bez obzira na sve,
01:41
he was just like everybody else.
on je isti kao i svi ostali.
01:43
But everyday tasks for Oliver
Oliveru su svakodnevne aktivnosti,
01:46
that we all take for granted
koje mi uzimamo zdravo za gotovo,
01:49
were incredibly challenging.
bile iznimno teške.
01:51
That simple act of dressing yourself --
the very thing that I adore --
Jednostavan čin odijevanja,
upravo ono što ja obožavam --
01:54
was a nightmare for him.
njemu je bila noćna mora.
02:00
His form of MD does not affect his mind.
Njegov oblik MD-a
ne utječe na inteligenciju.
02:03
His brain is an A-plus,
Njegov je mozak "čista petica",
02:07
which means he's acutely aware
of his shortcomings.
zbog čega je on itekako svjestan
svojih ograničenja.
02:09
This became very evident
when he started school,
To je postalo vidljivo
njegovim polaskom u školu
02:12
and that daily act of dressing yourself
was a constant reminder
i taj ga svakodnevni čin
odijevanja stalno podsjeća
02:16
of what he could and could not do.
na to što može, a što ne.
02:21
So our solution was for Oliver
to wear sweatpants every day:
Naše je rješenje bilo
da Oliver svaki dan nosi trenirku:
02:26
to school,
u školu,
02:30
to parties,
na zabave,
02:31
on vacations --
na izlete,
02:32
his uniform.
kao svoju uniformu.
02:34
For special occasions,
he would wear proper pants.
U posebnim prilikama nosio bi prave hlače.
02:36
But many times, because he couldn't manage
the button and zipper,
Kako sam nije mogao
zakopčati gumb i povući zatvarač,
02:39
I would have to take him
to the men's room,
često sam ga pratila u muški toalet,
02:43
which was incredibly embarrassing for him
što je za njega bilo iznimno neugodno,
02:46
and the other men that were in there.
ali i za muškarce koji su se tamo našli.
02:49
But them -- I said, "Oh, please.
There's nothing I haven't seen before."
Njima sam rekla, "Ma dajte, nema tu ništa
što već nisam vidjela."
02:51
(Laughter)
(Smijeh)
02:54
For years we muddled through.
Godinama smo se tako mučili.
02:56
But when Oliver was in third grade,
Oliver je bio u trećem razredu,
02:58
I found out he was more like me
than I ever imagined.
kada sam shvatila koliko smo slični.
03:01
Oliver, too, cared about fashion.
I Olivera je zanimala moda.
03:06
He came home from school one day
and said very definitively
Jednog dana došao je iz škole
i odlučno izjavio
03:09
that he was going to wear jeans to school
like everybody else gets to wear.
da će za školu odjenuti traperice
kao i svi ostali.
03:13
Well, I certainly couldn't go
to class with him
U školu s njim nisam mogla
03:17
and take him to the boys' room,
kako bih ga vodila na toalet,
03:20
but there was no way
I was telling my eight-year-old
no, isto tako nisam mogla reći
svom osmogodišnjaku
03:21
that he couldn't wear
what he wanted to wear.
da ne može nositi ono što želi.
03:25
So that night,
Te sam noći
03:28
I MacGyvered the hell out of his jeans.
od tih traperica napravila ono nemoguće.
03:30
I remembered when I was pregnant
Sjetila sam se svoje trudnoće
03:33
and unwilling to stop wearing
my own favorite pants,
i svoje odlučnosti da i dalje
mogu navući traperice,
03:36
even though I was busting out of them,
iako se činilo da će eksplodirati,
03:39
that rubber-band trick.
sjetila sam se trika s gumicom.
03:41
You moms remember what I'm talking about?
Mame znaju o čemu govorim.
03:43
The rubber band through the buttonhole,
Provući gumicu kroz otvor za gumb,
03:45
around the button and back?
oko gumba i natrag?
03:47
Instant stretch.
I hlače su rastezljive.
03:49
So I removed the zipper
Uklonila sam zatvarač
03:51
so he could pull it
up and down on his own.
kako bi ih sam mogao
spustiti i opet navući.
03:53
I cut up the side seam
of the bottom of his pants
Rasparala sam spojeve na nogavicama
03:56
to accommodate for his leg braces,
kako bi mogao provući proteze
04:00
applied Velcro --
i ušila čičak --
04:02
hold your ears, everybody:
peel and stick, mind you --
naćulite uši: odlijepi i zalijepi --
04:03
so that it would close around it.
tako da ih pokrije.
04:07
When I showed Oliver
my arts and crafts project,
Kad sam Oliveru pokazala
svoj mali krojački projekt,
04:10
he absolutely beamed.
bio je oduševljen.
04:14
He went into school
with his head held so high.
Otišao je u školu visoko uzdignute glave.
04:16
Those jeans transformed him.
Te su ga traperice promijenile.
04:20
He was able to get dressed on his own,
Ponovo se mogao sam odjenuti,
04:23
he was able to go
to the bathroom on his own;
mogao je sam na toalet.
04:26
those jeans gave him confidence.
Traperice su mu vratile samopouzdanje.
04:28
I didn't realize it at the time,
Tada to još nisam osvijestila,
04:31
but this was my first foray
into the world of adaptive clothing.
ali to je bio moj prvi korak
u svijet prilagođene odjeće.
04:33
Adaptive clothing is defined as clothing
designed for people with disabilities,
Prilagođena odjeća je odjeća dizajnirana
za osobe s teškoćama,
04:38
the elderly
za starije osobe
04:43
and anyone who struggles
with dressing themselves.
i ostale koji imaju teškoće
u samostalnom odijevanju.
04:45
Adaptive clothing did exist,
Takva je odjeća već postojala,
04:49
but it was missing that mainstream
fashion component.
ali joj je nedostajala modna komponenta.
04:52
It was very medicinal and very functional
Bila je medicinska i vrlo funkcionalna,
04:56
but not stylish.
ali ne baš lijepa.
04:59
And that's a huge problem,
A to je velik nedostatak,
05:01
because what you wear matters.
jer je bitno što nosiš na sebi.
05:03
Clothing can affect your mood,
Odjeća može utjecati na vaše raspoloženje,
05:06
your health
vaše zdravlje
05:09
and your self-esteem.
i na vaše samopouzdanje.
05:10
Now, being a fashion lover,
I've known this forever,
Kao ljubitelj mode,
svjesna sam toga oduvijek.
05:12
but scientists actually
have a name for it.
Čak i znanost ima naziv za to.
05:15
It's called "Enclothed Cognition,"
"Odjevna kognicija",
05:18
the co-occurrence of two factors:
pojavnost koja ovisi o dva faktora:
05:21
the symbolic meaning of clothing
o simboličkom značenju odjeće
05:23
and the physical experience
of wearing the clothing,
i tjelesnom doživljaju onog
što smo odjenuli.
05:26
both of which have a direct correlation
to how you feel about yourself.
Oba faktora izravno utječu
na to kako se osjećate.
05:30
There's actually a professor in the UK
by the name of Karen J. Pine.
Profesorica Karen J. Pine
iz Velike Britanije
05:35
She wrote a book called
"Mind What You Wear:
napisala je knjigu
"Pazite što ćete odjenuti:
05:40
The Psychology of Fashion."
Psihologija mode."
05:43
She states in her book
Autorica u knjizi ističe,
05:45
that when you put clothes on,
da kada nešto odjenete,
05:47
you adapt the characteristics
of what you're wearing,
prihvaćate karakteristike
onog što ste odjenuli,
05:50
whether you realize it or not.
bilo da ste svjesni toga ili ne.
05:53
That's why you feel like a rock star
Zbog toga se osjećate poput rock zvijezde
05:56
when you put on
those perfect-fitting jeans.
kada navučete traperice
koje vam savršeno pristaju.
06:00
That's why you feel invincible
when you put on that power suit,
Zbog toga se osjećate nepobjedivi
kada obučete odijelo,
06:03
and that's why you feel beautiful
zbog toga se osjećate predivno
06:07
in that little black dress.
u maloj crnoj haljini.
06:10
But that's exactly why
Oliver felt so isolated
Upravo zato se Oliver osjećao izoliranim,
06:12
when he couldn't wear
what he wanted to wear.
jer nije mogao birati što će odjenuti.
06:16
He even said to me one time,
Jednom mi je čak rekao,
06:18
"Mom, wearing sweatpants every day
"Mama, zbog nošenja trenirke svaki dan
06:19
makes me feel like I'm dressing disabled."
osjećam se kao da imam
posebne potrebe u odijevanju."
06:22
There are one billion people on our planet
Na svijetu je milijarda ljudi
06:28
that experience some type of disability.
s nekom vrstom teškoće.
06:32
One billion.
Milijarda.
06:34
If 10 percent of that billion
experience clothing challenges,
Ako 10% od tih milijardu
ima teškoće u odijevanju,
06:37
that's an enormous amount of people
that may not be as confident,
to je ogroman broj ljudi
koji se ne osjećaju samouvjereno,
06:42
as successful
uspješno
06:46
or even as happy as they could be.
ili sretno, a mogli bi biti.
06:48
The morning after Oliver left for school
wearing those jeans,
Sljedećeg jutra kada je Oliver
otišao u školu noseći te traperice,
06:52
I realized that I could
do something about that.
shvatila sam da mogu nešto promijeniti.
06:56
And so I did.
I jesam.
07:00
In 2013, I founded an organization
called Runway of Dreams.
2013. osnovala sam udrugu
"Runway of Dreams". [Staza snova]
07:02
The mission was to educate
the fashion industry
Cilj je bio poručiti modnoj industriji
07:08
that modifications could be made
to mainstream clothing
da je moguće prilagoditi uobičajenu odjeću
07:12
for this community
that has never been served.
ovoj zapostavljenoj grupi ljudi.
07:16
And it began with an entire
year of research.
Sve je započelo
jednogodišnjim istraživanjem.
07:20
I went to schools, I went to facilities,
I went to hospitals.
Obilazila sam škole, ustanove, bolnice.
07:24
I literally chased down people
on the street who were in wheelchairs
Doslovno sam jurila ulicom za ljudima
u invalidskim kolicima
07:28
or if they had walkers
ili hodalicama,
07:32
or even if they had a slight limp.
čak i ako su samo šepali.
07:33
(Laughter)
(Smijeh)
07:35
I know I must have looked insane,
Vjerojatno sam izgledala kao luđakinja,
07:36
but I knew that if I was really
going to make a difference,
no, ako uistinu želim nešto promijeniti,
07:38
I had to truly understand
the clothing challenges
morala sam dobro upoznati
teškoće u odijevanju
07:41
of as many different people
as I possibly could.
čim većeg broja ljudi.
07:45
I met a young man who was 18
who has cerebral palsy.
Upoznala sam osamnaestogodišnjeg mladića
s cerebralnom paralizom.
07:48
He was going to Harvard University.
Studirao je na Harvardu.
07:53
He said to me, "Can you imagine?
Rekao mi je, "Možete li zamisliti?
07:56
I got myself into Harvard,
upisao sam se na Harvard,
07:58
but my dream is to be able
to wear jeans on campus,
a meni je san nositi traperice po kampusu,
08:01
like the other freshmen will wear."
kao što će nositi i ostali brucoši."
08:05
I met a little girl named Gianna,
Upoznala sam djevojčicu, Giannu,
08:07
who was missing
her left forearm and her hand.
koja nije imala lijevu podlakticu.
08:10
Her mother told me
Njena mi je majka rekla
08:14
she could not bear to see
her daughter's difference magnified
da je neizmjerno smeta što
stanje njene kćeri pojačava
08:16
by a dangling sleeve,
taj rukav koji visi
08:19
so she had every single long-sleeve shirt
professionally tailored.
pa stoga krojaču daje na kraćenje
rukav svake košulje.
08:21
Can you imagine the time
and money she spent?
Možete li zamisliti koliko je
vremena i novaca potrošila?
08:25
I also had the great privilege
of spending time with Eric LeGrand,
Imala sam i veliku čast
upoznati Erica LeGranda,
08:29
former Rutgers football player
who was paralyzed during a tackle in 2010.
bivšeg ragbijaša Rutgersa,
paraliziranog od udarca na utakmici 2010.
08:33
I had, at this point,
seen some unfathomable things,
Do tog sam trenutka vidjela
mnogo toga neopisivog,
08:39
but this, by far,
was the most heart-stopping.
no, od ovog mi je srce stalo.
08:43
You see, Eric is a really big guy,
Eric je krupan momak
08:47
and it took two aides
and a lifting machine
i treba mu pomoć dva asistenta i lifta
08:49
to get him dressed.
kako bi ga se odjenulo.
08:53
I sat and watched this process
for over two hours.
Sjela sam i pratila taj proces
preko dva sata.
08:55
When I expressed my shock to Eric,
Rekavši Ericu koliko sam šokirana,
08:59
he looked at me and said,
pogledao me i rekao,
09:02
"Mindy, this is every single day.
"Mindy, tako je svakog dana.
09:03
What can I say?
Što da kažem?
09:06
I like to look sharp."
Volim izgledati naočito."
09:07
Research done.
Istraživanje je završilo.
09:10
I knew that if I was going to make
a change in the industry,
Znala sam, ako želim učiniti
promjene u industriji,
09:12
I had to use my background
moram iskoristiti svoje znanje
09:15
and really figure out
how to make these clothes modified.
i pronaći način kako modificirati odjeću.
09:18
So I took the information
I gathered over that past year,
Iskoristila sam informacije
prikupljene tijekom godine dana
09:23
and I figured out that there were
actually three categories
i utvrdila da postoje tri kategorije
09:27
that were affected across the board.
koje predstavljaju problem.
09:30
The first were closures.
Prva je zatvaranje odjeće.
09:32
Buttons, snaps, zippers, hook-and-eyes
were a challenge for almost everybody.
Gumbi, zatvarači, kukice
predstavljaju gotovo svima problem.
09:35
So I replaced them
with a more manageable technology:
Stoga sam ih zamijenila
mnogo jednostavnijom tehnologijom:
09:40
magnets.
magnetima.
09:44
Magnets made our Harvard freshman
able to wear jeans on campus,
Zbog magneta, naš brucoš s Harvarda
može nositi traperice,
09:45
because he could dress himself.
jer se može sam odjenuti.
09:50
Second: adjustability.
Druga kategorija je prilagodljivost.
09:52
Pant lengths, sleeve lengths, waistbands
Duljina nogavica, rukava i širina struka
09:55
were a challenge for so many
different-shaped bodies.
mnogima su problem zbog građe tijela.
09:57
So I added elastic,
Stoga sam dodala elastične trake
10:00
an internal hemming system.
u sve vrste pasica.
10:02
This way, Gianna could wear
a shirt right off the rack
Tako Gianna može uzeti košulju s police
i odmah je odjenuti.
10:05
and just adjust the one sleeve.
Samo treba prilagoditi rukav.
10:08
Last: alternate ways to get
the clothing on and off the body,
I posljednje: promijeniti način
oblačenja i svlačenja odjeće
10:11
outside the traditional way
of over your head.
mimo klasičnog načina
navlačenja preko glave.
10:14
So I designed a way to go in arms first.
Predložila sam način da ruke idu prve.
10:17
This, for somebody like Eric,
To bi nekome, poput Erica,
10:20
could actually take five steps
off his dressing process
smanjilo broj potrebnih radnji
u procesu odijevanja
10:22
and give him back the gift of time.
i uštedjelo vrijeme.
10:27
So I went out,
Otišla sam u kupovinu,
10:31
I bought clothing right off the rack,
kupila odjeću s polica,
10:33
I sat at my kitchen table,
ripped them apart,
sjela za kuhinjski stol, rasparala je
10:35
did prototype after prototype,
until I felt I had great modifications.
i nizala prototipove,
sve dok nisam našla pravo rješenje.
10:39
And then I was ready for the big leagues:
Tek sam tada bila spremna za velike face
10:45
the fashion industry.
u modnoj industriji.
10:48
Rather than designing my own collection,
Umjesto da stvaram svoju kolekciju,
10:51
I knew if I was really
going to make a difference,
znala sam, da ako želim stvarnu promjenu,
10:53
I had to go mainstream.
moram se obratiti industriji.
10:56
I believed that I just needed
to educate the industry
Bila sam uvjerena
da industrija treba znati
10:59
of the enormity of this population
koliko je brojna ova populacija
11:04
and the fact that these were consumers
i da su to potrošači, klijenti,
11:06
that simply weren't being considered.
koji su jednostavno zaboravljeni.
11:10
And I am thrilled to say
that the industry heard me.
Sa zadovoljstvom vam mogu reći
da su me poslušali.
11:13
Runway of Dreams collaborated
with the most amazing,
Runway of Dreams ostvario je
suradnju s nevjerojatnim,
11:18
forward-thinking brand on our planet --
planetarno uspješnim brendom --
11:23
(Applause)
(Pljesak)
11:27
who took my vision to market
koji su tržištu ponudili moju viziju
11:36
and made fashion history
i ušli u povijest mode
11:38
by launching the first mainstream
adaptive collection.
kao prvi brend
s prilagodljivom kolekcijom.
11:41
And the rest is yet to come.
I to nije kraj.
11:45
(Applause)
(Pljesak)
11:49
So --
Stoga --
11:51
(Applause)
(Pljesak)
11:52
Fashion holds the key to a vital lifeline.
Moda zauzma važno mjesto u našim životima.
11:55
Clothing can be transformative.
Odjeća nas mijenja.
11:59
Clothing equals confidence.
Odjeća je samopouzdanje.
12:01
So tomorrow,
Stoga sutra,
12:06
when you are starting your day
kada započnete svoj dan
12:07
and you're thinking about
what you're going to wear,
i razmišljate što ćete odjenuti,
12:09
I hope you appreciate the process
budite svjesni ovog procesa
12:12
and think about how what you chose
i razmislite kako se osjećate,
12:15
makes you feel.
dok birate odjeću.
12:18
Today, Oliver is 13.
Oliver sada ima 13 godina.
12:19
He wears his adaptive khakis,
Nosi svoje prilagodljive kaki hlače,
12:22
his magnetic button-front shirt --
košulju s magnetima
12:24
feels like the coolest kid around.
i osjeća se kao cool klinac.
12:27
My boy has total swagger.
Moj dečko je prava faca.
12:29
(Laughter)
(Smijeh)
12:32
As I mentioned,
Kao što sam spomenula,
12:35
Oliver's disease is degenerative,
njegova je bolest degenerativna
12:39
which means his muscles
are going to break down over time.
i njegovi će mišići sve više propadati.
12:42
This, by far, is the most
devastating part for me.
I to je ono što me slama iznutra.
12:47
I have to sit on the sidelines
Što moram promatrati sa strane
12:52
and watch my boy deteriorate.
i gledati kako moj dečko propada.
12:56
And there's nothing I can do about it.
Mogu samo bespomoćno promatrati.
12:59
So I am looking up from the things
that I cannot control
Zato skrećem pogled visoko gore
od stvari koje ne mogu promijeniti,
13:03
to the things that I can,
na one koje mogu,
13:09
because I have no option.
jer nemam izbora.
13:11
And so, I am looking up.
Zato gledam visoko gore.
13:14
And I'm asking the fashion
industry to look up.
I tražim modnu industriju
da to isto učini.
13:17
And now, I'm asking all of you
Molim i sve vas,
13:21
to look up, too.
pogledajte gore.
13:24
Thank you.
Hvala vam.
13:27
(Applause)
(Pljesak)
13:28
Translated by Antun Zupanc
Reviewed by Sanda L

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About the speaker:

Mindy Scheier - Fashion designer
Mindy Scheier is the founder of the Runway of Dreams Foundation. Prior to launching the nonprofit, Mindy spent over 20 years working in fashion as a key member of the design team for the INC collection and stylist for Saks Fifth Avenue in New York City.

Why you should listen

Mindy Scheier's career path took a new direction when her son Oliver, who has a rare form of muscular dystrophy that causes physical disabilities, wanted to wear jeans to school like his friends. She used her background in design to adapt a pair that not only met his needs but increased his confidence. She soon realized that millions of people around the globe were also struggling to access fashionable clothing and went on to conduct extensive research and focus groups with people of all abilities to better understand the challenges faced by the community. She used her experience in fashion to develop modifications -- including magnetic closures, adjustability of waistbands, pant and sleeve lengths and alternative ways to get in and out of the clothing -- to meet a wide variety of needs within the differently-abled community. After pounding the fashion pavement, Runway of Dreams collaborated with Tommy Hilfiger on the first ever-mainstream adaptive clothing line for kids in Spring 2016.

Scheier's work with Runway of Dreams Foundation expands beyond adaptive clothing. Founded on the basis that clothing is a basic human need, the Runway of Dreams Foundation develops, delivers and supports initiatives to broaden the reach of mainstream adaptive clothing and promote the differently-abled community in the fashion industry. Through adaptive clothing donations, employment opportunity initiatives, adaptive design workshops, awareness building campaigns and scholarships programs, the Runway of Dreams Foundation is empowering people with disabilities with opportunity, confidence, independence and style. Envisioning a world where fashion is mainstream and accessible for all, Scheier continues to break down barriers and challenge industry norms.

More profile about the speaker
Mindy Scheier | Speaker | TED.com