TED Salon The Macallan
Becca McCharen-Tran: Fashion that celebrates all body types -- boldly and unapologetically
貝卡麥卡倫特蘭: 讚頌各種身體類型的時尚：放膽去做，不用感到抱歉
Filmed:
Readability: 4.6
1,322,288 views
時尚設計師有能力改變文化。貝卡麥卡倫特蘭用她的平台來拓展這個產業對於美麗的狹隘定義。麥卡倫特蘭分享了她的精華作品，並討論她這些挑戰標準的設計背後有什麼熱望，及展示她如何讚頌所有形式的美麗。她說：「我希望消費者知道，要改變的不是你的身體，而是衣服。」
Becca McCharen-Tran - Fashion designer
Becca McCharen-Tran is creating a world where people of all shapes, sizes, gender expressions, ages, ability levels, races and ethnicities are empowered on the runway and beyond. Full bio
Becca McCharen-Tran is creating a world where people of all shapes, sizes, gender expressions, ages, ability levels, races and ethnicities are empowered on the runway and beyond. Full bio
Double-click the English transcript below to play the video.
00:12
As fashion designers,
0
952
1818
身為時裝設計師，
00:14
our decisions have the power
to change our culture.
to change our culture.
1
2794
3301
我們的決定有著改變文化的力量。
00:18
We choose who is cast
in our runway shows and campaigns,
in our runway shows and campaigns,
2
6937
4029
我們決定時裝秀
及廣告活動上台的人選，
及廣告活動上台的人選，
00:22
and ultimately, who is celebrated
and considered beautiful,
and considered beautiful,
3
10990
4039
決定誰最終會被讚頌、被認定為美麗，
00:27
and who is not.
4
15053
1150
而誰不會。
00:29
Having this platform is a responsibility.
5
17569
2635
擁有這個平台是一種責任。
00:32
One that can be utilized to exclude people
6
20228
2746
它能夠被用來排擠人，
00:34
or to empower others.
7
22998
1571
或用來捧人。
00:38
Growing up, I was obsessed with fashion.
8
26707
2944
我在成長過程中就很迷戀時尚。
00:42
I pored over all different types
of fashion magazines
of fashion magazines
9
30009
3388
我在當地的巴諾書店中
熟讀各種不同類型的時尚雜誌。
00:45
at my local Barnes and Noble.
10
33421
1934
00:48
To be fashionable was to be tall,
skinny, with long, shiny hair.
skinny, with long, shiny hair.
11
36561
4278
時尚人就是要很高、很瘦，
披著一頭閃亮的長髮。
披著一頭閃亮的長髮。
00:53
That's what I saw as the ideal,
12
41585
1691
那是我心中理想時尚的概念。
00:55
and it was reinforced everywhere I looked.
13
43300
2364
看得越多，我就越確信這一點。
00:57
And to be honest, it still is.
14
45688
2000
老實說，現在還是一樣。
01:01
I wanted to be like the models,
so I stopped eating.
so I stopped eating.
15
49657
3559
我曾想當模特兒，所以我不吃東西。
01:06
It was a dark time in my life;
16
54165
1761
那是我人生中的黑暗時期；
我的飲食障礙吞噬著我。
我的飲食障礙吞噬著我。
01:07
my eating disorder consumed me.
17
55950
1810
我滿腦子都在斤斤計較
每一個卡路里，
每一個卡路里，
01:09
All I could think about
was counting every single calorie,
was counting every single calorie,
18
57784
3087
01:12
and waking up early
before school every day
before school every day
19
60895
2160
每天上學前要提早起床，
01:15
so I could run a few miles.
20
63079
1767
才能先慢跑幾英里。
01:16
It took me years
to finally release the grip
to finally release the grip
21
64870
2294
我花了數年的時間
才終於脫離了
飲食障礙對我人生的影響。
飲食障礙對我人生的影響。
01:19
that the eating disorder had over my life.
22
67188
2341
01:21
But when it did,
23
69927
1158
在那之後，釋放出好多腦空間
01:23
it freed up so much brain space
24
71109
1579
01:24
to think about what I was truly
passionate about.
passionate about.
25
72712
2627
來思考我真正的熱情在哪裡。
長久以來，時尚產業很努力地
設立了一種美麗的理想標準，
設立了一種美麗的理想標準，
01:27
For so long,
26
75363
1166
01:28
the fashion industry has worked hard
to set an ideal of beauty
to set an ideal of beauty
27
76553
2945
01:31
that celebrates thin,
young, white, cisgender,
young, white, cisgender,
28
79522
3365
讚頌纖瘦、年輕、白種、順性別、
身體健全的模特兒，
身體健全的模特兒，
01:34
able-bodied models as the ideal.
29
82911
3083
符合這些條件才是理想的。
01:38
It's impossible not to be bombarded
30
86617
2032
要不被一大堆修圖過的模特兒
照片給轟炸是不可能的，
照片給轟炸是不可能的，
01:40
with images of models
that have been photoshopped
that have been photoshopped
31
88673
2310
且修圖修到中看不見
任何毛孔、肥肉、肥胖紋。
任何毛孔、肥肉、肥胖紋。
01:43
to where there's not a single pore,
32
91007
1674
01:44
fat roll or stretch mark in sight.
33
92705
1952
01:46
You don't need to look hard
to find examples.
to find examples.
34
94681
3067
隨處都看到到這種例子。
01:50
This definition of beauty is damaging,
dangerous and destructive,
dangerous and destructive,
35
98485
4469
美麗的這種定義其實
具有傷害力、危險性和破壞性，
具有傷害力、危險性和破壞性，
我們必須要立刻推翻它。
01:54
and we need to explode it immediately.
36
102978
2533
01:58
(Applause)
37
106017
4575
（掌聲）
02:02
I'm glad you agree.
38
110616
1341
我很高興你們認同。（笑聲）
02:03
(Laughter)
39
111981
1150
02:05
One of the worst things
I've realized over the years
I've realized over the years
40
113751
2484
最糟糕的是，這些年來我發覺
02:08
is that my experience
with disordered eating
with disordered eating
41
116259
2071
那段飲食障礙的經歷並不特別，
02:10
is not an anomaly.
42
118354
1254
02:11
In fact, it's par for the course.
43
119632
2278
事實上，這是司空見慣的現象。
02:13
I think there's a study that says
91 percent of women,
91 percent of women,
44
121934
2548
有一篇研究指出， 91% 的女性，
02:16
and likely those of all gender identities,
45
124506
2452
很可能還包括各種性別身分的人，
02:18
are unhappy with the way they look.
46
126982
2127
對他們的外貌都不滿意。
02:22
It's unforgivable
47
130466
1508
年輕女孩在討厭自己的心態下長大，
02:23
that we live in a society
where it's normal or expected
where it's normal or expected
48
131998
2897
我們的社會竟將此現象
視為常態或理所當然，
視為常態或理所當然，
02:26
for teenagers to grow up
hating themselves.
hating themselves.
49
134919
2642
真是不可原諒。
02:31
We've been fighting for fat acceptance
and women's body autonomy since the '60s.
and women's body autonomy since the '60s.
50
139022
4524
從 1960 年代起我們就在努力推動
接納肥胖和女性身體自主權，
接納肥胖和女性身體自主權，
02:35
And there has been headway.
51
143570
1833
一直都有進展。
02:37
We have plus-size models
like Ashley Graham
like Ashley Graham
52
145427
2381
我們有加大尺碼的模特兒，
如艾希莉葛萊漢，
如艾希莉葛萊漢，
以及傳遞身體自愛訊息的
音樂家，如莉佐，
音樂家，如莉佐，
02:39
and musicians with body-positive messages,
53
147832
2015
02:41
like Lizzo, breaking into the mainstream.
54
149871
2611
她們打入了主流，謝天謝地。
02:44
Thank God.
55
152506
1198
02:45
(Laughter)
56
153728
1150
（笑聲）
02:47
There's brands like Area
57
155974
1190
還有像 Area 這樣的品牌，
使用完全不用修圖的宣傳照。
使用完全不用修圖的宣傳照。
02:49
that have released campaigns
without any Photoshop retouching.
without any Photoshop retouching.
58
157188
3298
02:52
But we're still inundated
with unrealistic expectations.
with unrealistic expectations.
59
160510
3460
但我們仍然被
不切實際的期待所淹沒。
不切實際的期待所淹沒。
02:56
I love this quote by Lizzo, who said,
60
164454
2278
我很喜歡莉佐說的一句話：
02:58
"Body positivity only exists
because body negativity is the norm."
because body negativity is the norm."
61
166756
4563
「身體自愛會存在是因為
身體不自愛是一種常態。」
身體不自愛是一種常態。」
03:05
So how do we change the stigma
around looking different
around looking different
62
173668
2814
我們要如何改變
這種汙名化的現象，
這種汙名化的現象，
別再羞辱外表與眾不同
或不符合美麗窄隘定義的人？
或不符合美麗窄隘定義的人？
03:08
or not fitting into this narrow
definition of beauty?
definition of beauty?
63
176506
3341
03:12
I believe it's by celebrating beauty
in all different forms,
in all different forms,
64
180462
3066
我相信，做法就是讚頌
各種不同形式的美麗，
各種不同形式的美麗，
03:15
bold and unapologetically.
65
183552
2095
大膽且不用覺得抱歉。
03:18
But many fashion designers
continue to reinforce
continue to reinforce
66
186481
2253
但許多時尚設計師持續強化
美麗的這種狹隘定義。
美麗的這種狹隘定義。
03:20
this narrow definition of beauty.
67
188758
2150
03:22
From the way they are taught in school
68
190932
1875
從他們在學校學習的方式，
03:24
and into the real world,
69
192831
1294
一直到真實世界，
03:26
they drape on mannequins
that are only size four,
that are only size four,
70
194149
2642
他們裝扮的模特兒假人
尺碼都只有四號，
尺碼都只有四號，
03:28
or sketch on bodies
that are super stretched out
that are super stretched out
71
196815
2836
時尚設計圖的素描
都把身體拉長得
不符合人體正常比例。
不符合人體正常比例。
03:31
and not anatomically proportioned.
72
199675
1825
03:33
Different-size bodies
aren't taken into account
aren't taken into account
73
201524
2290
在設計過程中，不同尺碼的
體型沒有被納入考量，
體型沒有被納入考量，
03:35
during the design process.
74
203838
1270
想都沒有想過。
03:37
They're not thought of.
75
205132
1622
03:38
So who are these designers designing for?
76
206778
2746
所以這些設計師是為了誰在做設計？
03:42
But the conversation
around exclusivity in fashion
around exclusivity in fashion
77
210968
3206
但在時尚圈中關於排他性的討論
03:46
doesn't begin and end with size.
78
214198
2182
並不止於尺碼的問題。
03:48
It's about seeing people
of all different gender expressions,
of all different gender expressions,
79
216404
2984
重點是要看到各種人
有不同的性別表述、
有不同的性別表述、
03:51
different ability levels, different ages,
80
219412
2650
不同的能力高低、不同的年齡、
03:54
different races and ethnicities,
81
222086
1547
不同的種族和文化，
03:55
celebrated for their own unique beauty.
82
223657
2095
都能讚頌他們自己獨一無二的美麗。
03:57
In my own work as a fashion designer,
83
225776
1777
在我的時尚設計工作中，
03:59
I started a brand called Chromat,
84
227577
1691
我創造了一個品牌叫 Chromat，
04:01
and we're committed to empowering
women, femmes and nonbinary #ChromatBABES,
women, femmes and nonbinary #ChromatBABES,
85
229292
4325
我們承諾要強化女人、女同性戀，
以及非二元性別的 #Chromat 寶貝，
以及非二元性別的 #Chromat 寶貝，
04:05
of all shapes and sizes,
86
233641
2000
不論體形、尺碼，
04:07
through perfectly fit garments
for every body.
for every body.
87
235665
2882
每個身體都有能完全合身的服裝。
04:10
Swimwear has become a huge focus for me,
88
238571
2793
泳裝已經變成了
我設計的一個主要焦點，
我設計的一個主要焦點，
04:13
because of the power
that this single garment can have
that this single garment can have
89
241388
2532
因為單單一件衣著就有強大的力量
04:15
over the way people feel about themselves.
90
243944
2140
足以影響人們對自己的感覺。
04:18
We wanted to take our focus
on celebrating all body types
on celebrating all body types
91
246476
3415
我們想把焦點放在一種最容易引發
對自己體型不安全感的衣著，
對自己體型不安全感的衣著，
04:21
to a garment that's fraught
with insecurity.
with insecurity.
92
249915
2841
讓我們更能欣賞各種體型。
04:24
On our runways, you see curves,
cellulite and scars worn proudly.
cellulite and scars worn proudly.
93
252780
4840
在我們的伸展台上，
你會看到豐腴的曲線、
橘皮組織、傷疤被大方展現。
橘皮組織、傷疤被大方展現。
04:29
We're a runway show, yes,
94
257644
1870
我們是伸展台時裝秀，
04:31
but we're also a celebration.
95
259538
1933
但我們也是一場讚頌慶典。
04:33
I didn't start designing 10 years ago
96
261870
2271
十年前我開始做設計時，
04:36
with the mission to change
the entire industry.
the entire industry.
97
264165
2476
並沒有想改變整個產業的使命感。
04:38
But the models we cast at the time,
98
266665
1753
但當時我們安排的模特兒
04:40
who just happened to be my friends
who had begged to be in my shows,
who had begged to be in my shows,
99
268442
3389
剛好是我的朋友，
她們請求要參與走秀，
她們請求要參與走秀，
04:43
were so radical to some people,
100
271855
2032
某些人當時覺得這種安排很極端，
04:45
and, unfortunately,
still are different or strange to some,
still are different or strange to some,
101
273911
2936
不幸的是，現在仍有些人
覺得她們很奇怪，
覺得她們很奇怪，
04:48
that it became a huge part
of what we're known for.
of what we're known for.
102
276871
2905
但我們的與眾不同
已成了我們知名之處。
已成了我們知名之處。
04:52
However, inclusivity means nothing
if it's only surface level.
if it's only surface level.
103
280220
4871
然而，包容如果只有做表面，
就一點意義也沒有。
就一點意義也沒有。
04:58
Behind the scenes,
104
286473
1166
在幕後，
04:59
from the photographer,
to the casting director,
to the casting director,
105
287663
2238
從攝影師到選角導演，
05:01
to the interns,
106
289925
1157
到實習生，
05:03
who is making the decisions
behind the scenes
behind the scenes
107
291106
2875
在幕後做決策的人
05:06
is just as important.
108
294005
1817
也都同等重要。
05:08
It's imperative to include
diverse decision-makers in the process,
diverse decision-makers in the process,
109
296601
3743
當務之急是讓多樣化的決策者參與，
05:12
and it's always better
to collaborate with different communities,
to collaborate with different communities,
110
300368
3587
通常，和不同的族群共同合作設計，
好過由我們代替他們發聲。
05:15
rather than trying to speak for them.
111
303979
2267
05:19
And this is an important
piece of the puzzle
piece of the puzzle
112
307868
2074
我們的工作中有很重要的一環，
05:21
that many young designers
may not think about
may not think about
113
309966
2111
許多年輕設計師在剛開始
職涯時可能不會想到：
職涯時可能不會想到：
05:24
when they're first starting their careers,
114
312101
2031
僱用一名加大尺碼或變性攝影師，
05:26
but hiring a plus-size
or a transgender photographer,
or a transgender photographer,
115
314156
2484
或有色人種的女性選角導演，
05:28
or a woman of color
as your casting director,
as your casting director,
116
316664
2119
或黑人化妝師 ······
嘿，法蒂瑪湯瑪斯！
嘿，法蒂瑪湯瑪斯！
05:30
or a black makeup artist --
hey, Fatima Thomas --
hey, Fatima Thomas --
117
318807
3061
05:33
who intimately understands
how important it is
how important it is
118
321892
3304
他們能非常切身地了解，
能處理各種皮膚色調有多麼重要，
05:37
to be able to work with all skin tones:
119
325220
2190
05:39
it's essential to creating
a holistically inclusive output,
a holistically inclusive output,
120
327434
4056
因為如此才能夠創造出
適合各種人的產物，
適合各種人的產物，
05:43
like this one.
121
331514
1157
像是這件作品。
05:44
As a fashion designers
that do a lot of swim,
that do a lot of swim,
122
332695
2755
身為常常游泳的時尚設計師，
05:47
we wanted to rewrite the rules
around having a bikini body.
around having a bikini body.
123
335474
3333
我們想要重寫比基尼身材的規則。
05:51
So we cast a team of babe guards
124
339132
2175
所以我們安排了一組
女子救生員當模特兒，
女子救生員當模特兒，
05:53
to enforce guidelines around inclusion
and acceptance at the pool.
and acceptance at the pool.
125
341331
4068
來強化游泳池中
包容和接納的指導方針。
包容和接納的指導方針。
05:58
Instead of "no diving" and "no running,"
126
346947
2349
不要用「禁止潛水」
及「禁止奔跑」的標誌，
及「禁止奔跑」的標誌，
06:01
how about "celebrate cellulite,"
127
349320
2468
換成「讚頌橘皮組織」、
06:03
"body policing prohibited,"
128
351812
1559
「禁止體型警察」，
06:05
and "intolerance not tolerated."
129
353395
2055
「拒絕包容不包容的行為」。
06:07
And this was enforced by babe guards
Mama Cax, Denise Bidot,
Mama Cax, Denise Bidot,
130
355474
4135
推行這項活動的女子救生員包括：
瑪瑪卡克斯、丹妮絲畢多、
瑪瑪卡克斯、丹妮絲畢多、
06:11
Geena Rocero, Ericka Hart and Emme,
131
359633
3401
吉娜羅瑟洛、艾瑞卡哈特，及艾美。
06:15
all activists in their own right.
132
363058
2389
她們都是時尚群眾運動家。
06:17
I've always felt it was important
to show a range of different bodies
to show a range of different bodies
133
365471
3253
我總覺得在時裝秀及廣告活動中
06:20
in our runway shows and campaigns.
134
368748
1699
展示一系列不同的身體是很重要的。
06:22
But it actually wasn't until recently
135
370471
1932
但一直到最近，
06:24
that we were able to expand
our size range in a major way.
our size range in a major way.
136
372427
3039
我們才有辦法大幅擴展尺碼的範圍。
06:27
We first launched our curve collection
137
375490
1865
我們五年前初次推出豐腴曲線系列，
06:29
five years ago;
138
377379
1158
06:30
we were so excited.
139
378561
1413
當時我們好興奮。
06:31
But when it launched, it fell flat.
140
379998
2436
但推出時，卻徹底失敗。
06:34
Nobody was interested.
141
382458
1635
沒有人感興趣。
06:36
None of our department stores
stocked above a size large,
stocked above a size large,
142
384117
3206
沒有百貨公司進 L 以上的尺碼，
06:39
and if they did, it was somewhere else
in the building entirely.
in the building entirely.
143
387347
3164
就算有，也是存放在
大樓裡不同的地方。
大樓裡不同的地方。
06:42
In fact, one time our sales team said,
144
390869
1861
事實上，有次我們的業務團隊說：
06:44
"You know, it's so cool
you have trans models
you have trans models
145
392754
2123
「你把變性、豐腴的模特兒
放在伸展台上是件很酷的事，
放在伸展台上是件很酷的事，
06:46
and curve models on the runway --
146
394901
1639
我很喜歡你做的事。
06:48
I love what you're doing.
147
396564
1246
06:49
But when the buyers come in
to see the collection for market,
to see the collection for market,
148
397834
2954
但當買家過來看上市的系列時，
06:52
they want to be sold a dream,
149
400812
1389
他們想買的是一個夢想，
他們想看到自己渴望成為的形象。」
他們想看到自己渴望成為的形象。」
06:54
they want to see something
that they aspire to be."
that they aspire to be."
150
402225
2662
06:56
Implying that our models weren't that.
151
404911
2533
暗指我們的模特兒
不是他們渴望的形象。
不是他們渴望的形象。
07:01
But I've realized
it's so much more important
it's so much more important
152
409058
2206
但我了解到，更重要的
是要把這個夢想開放給更多人。
是要把這個夢想開放給更多人。
07:03
to open up this dream to more people.
153
411288
2467
07:06
I want the consumer to know
154
414527
1301
我希望消費者知道，
要改變的不是你的身體，
要改變的不是你的身體，
07:07
that it's not your body
that needs to change --
that needs to change --
155
415852
2590
07:10
it's the clothes.
156
418466
1150
是衣服。
07:12
(Applause)
157
420413
5672
（掌聲）
07:18
There needs to be more fashion options
at all sizes and in all retailers.
at all sizes and in all retailers.
158
426109
4467
我們需要有更多
時尚選擇和所有尺碼，
時尚選擇和所有尺碼，
而且所有零售據點都買得到。
07:24
So finally, in 2018,
159
432546
1751
所以終於在 2018 年，
07:26
Nordstrom actually
placed an order up to 3X.
placed an order up to 3X.
160
434321
3216
諾德斯特龍百貨公司下單，
進貨最大尺寸是 3X。
進貨最大尺寸是 3X。
07:29
And this was a huge game changer for us
161
437561
1944
有大型零售商投資增加這些品項，
07:31
to have a major retailer invest
in adding these units,
in adding these units,
162
439529
3565
對我們來說是個很大的助力。
07:35
so we could go to the factory --
163
443118
2157
於是我們就能交給工廠做。
07:37
now we go up to 4X,
which is about a size 32.
which is about a size 32.
164
445299
4077
現在我們有 4X 的尺碼，
大約是 32 號。
大約是 32 號。
07:41
Having that investment
165
449400
1309
有那樣的投資，
07:42
helped us to change and realign
our entire design process.
our entire design process.
166
450733
3531
讓我們能夠革新和重新調整
整個設計過程。
整個設計過程。
07:46
We now have different-sized bodies
to sketch and drape on in the studio.
to sketch and drape on in the studio.
167
454288
3495
現在我們在工作室裡有
不同尺碼的體型供素描及裝扮。
不同尺碼的體型供素描及裝扮。
07:50
And if more fashion schools
taught these skills,
taught these skills,
168
458244
2628
若有更多時尚學校能教這些技能，
07:52
more designers would have the ability
to design for all bodies.
to design for all bodies.
169
460896
3474
就會有更多設計師有能力
為各種體型做設計。
為各種體型做設計。
07:56
(Applause)
170
464672
4923
（掌聲）
08:02
So as fashion designers,
it's our job to utilize our platform
it's our job to utilize our platform
171
470048
4937
所以身為時尚設計師，
我們的工作是要用我們的平台
08:07
to explode this narrow
and restrictive definition of beauty.
and restrictive definition of beauty.
172
475009
3909
來推翻對美麗所下的狹隘定義。
08:10
My goal is that one day,
173
478942
1294
我的目標是，有一天，
年輕女孩成長過程不必再感受到
我當初那種必須順應他人的壓力。
我當初那種必須順應他人的壓力。
08:12
teenagers growing up don't feel
the same pressure that I did to conform.
the same pressure that I did to conform.
174
480260
4262
08:17
And I hope that our work contributes
to the fashion industry's opening up
to the fashion industry's opening up
175
485174
3461
我希望我們的努力
能促成時尚產業更開放，
能促成時尚產業更開放，
08:20
to celebrate many different identities.
176
488659
2675
去讚頌許多不同的身份。
08:23
Thank you.
177
491358
1150
謝謝。
08:24
(Applause and cheers)
178
492532
4206
（掌聲及歡呼）
ABOUT THE SPEAKER
Becca McCharen-Tran - Fashion designerBecca McCharen-Tran is creating a world where people of all shapes, sizes, gender expressions, ages, ability levels, races and ethnicities are empowered on the runway and beyond.
Why you should listen
Becca McCharen-Tran is the founder and creative director of the future-forward bodywear label Chromat. With a degree from the UVA School of Architecture, McCharen-Tran fuses a technical background with a focus on the body to create designs for boundary-breaking women like Beyoncé, Madonna and Nicki Minaj. A Forbes "30 Under 30" pick for "People Who Are Reinventing the World," McCharen-Tran speaks about the fraught impact that fashion had on her own upbringing -- motivating her to reshape the industry into a more inclusive and accessible space.
Becca McCharen-Tran | Speaker | TED.com