ABOUT THE SPEAKER
Suzanne Lee - Designer
TED Fellow Suzanne Lee is a fashion designer turned biological conjurer, who gleefully plays with new materials and processes.

Why you should listen

Fashion designer Suzanne Lee directs the BioCouture research project, which sprang from an idea in her book Fashioning the Future: Tomorrow’s Wardrobe, a seminal text on fashion and future technologies. Her research harnesses nature to propose a radical future fashion vision: Can we grow a dress from a vat of liquid?

Using bacterial-cellulose, Lee aims to address pressing ecological and sustainability issues around fashion and beyond. A Senior Research Fellow at Central Saint Martins, University of the Arts London, she is working with scientists to investigate whether synthetic biology can engineer optimized organisms for growing future consumer products

More profile about the speaker
Suzanne Lee | Speaker | TED.com
TED2011

Suzanne Lee: Grow your own clothes

Suzanne Lee: Uzgojite vlastitu odjeću

Filmed:
1,519,065 views

Dizajnerica Suzanne Lee priča o svom eksperimentu uzgoja materijala baziranog na kombući koji se može koristiti kao tkanina ili koža nastala od povrća za izradu odjeće. Proces je zaprepašćujući, rezultati predivni (iako postoji manji nedostatak...) a potencijal je jednostavno iznenađujući.
- Designer
TED Fellow Suzanne Lee is a fashion designer turned biological conjurer, who gleefully plays with new materials and processes. Full bio

Double-click the English transcript below to play the video.

00:15
So as a fashionmoda designerdizajner,
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Kao modni dizajner
00:17
I've always tendedSkloni to think of materialsmaterijali
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oduvijek sam razmišljala o materijalima da su
00:19
something like this,
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nešto kao ovaj,
00:21
or this,
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ili ovaj
00:24
or maybe this.
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ili možda ovaj.
00:27
But then I metispunjen a biologistbiolog,
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Ali onda sam srela biologa,
00:30
and now I think of materialsmaterijali like this --
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te sada o materijalima razmišljam da su -
00:33
greenzeleno teačaj, sugaršećer,
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zeleni čaj, šećer,
00:35
a fewnekoliko microbesmikroba and a little time.
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nekoliko mikroba i malo vemena.
00:38
I'm essentiallyesencijalno usingkoristeći a kombuchakombucha reciperecept,
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U osnovi koristim recept za kombuću,
00:40
whichšto is a symbioticsimbiotski mixmix
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što predstavlja simbiotički miks
00:42
of bacteriabakterije, yeastskvasci and other micro-organismsmikroorganizama,
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bakterija, kvasaca i drugih mikro organizama,
00:45
whichšto spinspin celluloseceluloza
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koji proizvode celulozu
00:47
in a fermentationfermentacija processproces.
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u procesu fermentacije.
00:50
Over time, these tinysitni threadsniti
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Tokom vremena, ove male niti
00:52
formobrazac in the liquidtečnost into layersslojeva
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nastale u tečnosti se pretvaraju u slojeve
00:54
and produceproizvesti a matmat on the surfacepovršine.
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i kreiraju sloj na površini.
00:59
So we startpočnite by brewingvarenje the teačaj.
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Počinjenom pravljenjem čaja.
01:01
I brewpivo up to about 30 literslitara of teačaj at a time,
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Napravim oko 30 litara čaja,
01:04
and then while it's still hotvruće, adddodati a couplepar of kiloskilograma of sugaršećer.
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i dok je još topao, dodam dvije kile šećera.
01:07
We stirpromiješati this in untildo it's completelypotpuno dissolvedotopljeni
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Mješamo čaj dok se šećer ne rastopi u potpunosti
01:10
and then pourpour it into a growthrast bathkupelj.
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i onda sve to izlijemo u kadu za uzgoj.
01:12
We need to checkproveri that the temperaturetemperatura
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Moramo provjeriti da se temperatura
01:14
has cooledhlađeni to belowdole 30 degreesstepeni C.
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snizila ispod 30 stepeni C.
01:17
And then we're readyspreman to adddodati the livingživi organismorganizam.
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I onda smo spremni da dodamo žive organizme,
01:19
And alongzajedno with that, some aceticoctena acidkiselina.
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zajedno sa acetatnom kiselinom.
01:21
And oncejednom you get this processproces going,
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I kada pokrenete ovaj proces
01:23
you can actuallyzapravo recyclereciklirati
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možete zapravo reciklirati
01:25
your previousranije fermentedfermentirani liquidtečnost.
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tečnost koju ste prethodno koristili.
01:28
We need to maintainodržavati an optimumoptimalno temperaturetemperatura for the growthrast.
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Moramo održati optimalnu temperaturu za rast.
01:31
And I use a heattoplota matmat to sitsedite the bathkupelj on
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Ja koristim podmetač na električno grijanje da postavim posudu sa rastvorom
01:34
and a thermostattermostat to regulateregulirati it.
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i termostat da reguliše toplotu
01:36
And actuallyzapravo, in hotvruće weathervrijeme, I can just growraste it outsidespolja.
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I zapravo dok je toplo mogu i uzgajati napolju.
01:39
So this is my minimini fabrictkanina farmfarma.
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Tako da je ovo moja mini farma tkanine.
01:41
After about threetri daysdana,
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Nakon oko tri dana,
01:43
the bubblesmehuriće will appearpojaviti on the surfacepovršine of the liquidtečnost.
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mjehurići će se pojaviti na površini tečnosti.
01:46
So this is tellinggovoreći us that the fermentationfermentacija is in fullpun swingswing.
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To nam govori da je fermentacija u punom jeku.
01:49
And the bacteriabakterije are feedinghranjenje
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Bakterije se hrane
01:51
on the sugaršećer nutrientshranljive materije in the liquidtečnost.
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šećerom iz tečnosti.
01:53
So they're spinningpredenje these tinysitni nanonano fibersvlakna
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Nastavljajući da predu ova tanka, nano vlakna
01:55
of purečist celluloseceluloza.
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čiste celuloze.
01:57
And they're stickingzalepiti se togetherzajedno, formingformiranje layersslojeva
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One se lijepe jedna za drugu, stvarajući slojeve
01:59
and givingdavanje us a sheetlist on the surfacepovršine.
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i dajući nam list na površini.
02:01
After about two to threetri weeksnedelje,
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Nakon oko dvije do tri sedmice,
02:03
we're looking at something whichšto is about an inchinch in thicknessdebljina.
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dobijemo sloj debljine jednog inča.
02:06
So the bathkupelj on the left is after fivepet daysdana,
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Posuda lijevo pokazuje šta se dobije nakon pet dana,
02:09
and on the right, after 10.
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a posuda desno nakon deset.
02:11
And this is a staticStatički culturekultura.
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A ovo je statična kultura.
02:13
You don't have to do anything to it;
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Ne morate ništa da radite sa njom;
02:15
you just literallybukvalno watch it growraste.
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samo je gledate kako raste.
02:17
It doesn't need lightsvetlo.
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Ne treba svjetlost.
02:19
And when it's readyspreman to harvestžetva, you take it out of the bathkupelj
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A kada je spremna, izvadite je iz posude
02:22
and you washpranje it in coldhladnoće, soapysa sredstvom za pranje watervoda.
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i operete u hladnoj sapunjavoj vodi.
02:24
At this pointtačka, it's really heavyteška.
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U ovom trenutku, jako je teška.
02:26
It's over 90 percentprocenta watervoda,
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Preko 90 procenata je voda,
02:28
so we need to let that evaporateispariti.
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tako da moramo da je ostavimo da voda ispari.
02:30
So I spreadširiti it out ontona a woodendrveni sheetlist.
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Ja je postavim na drvenu podlogu.
02:32
Again, you can do that outsidespolja
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I ovo možete uraditi napolju
02:34
and just let it drysuho in the airzrak.
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i jednostavno je ostavite da se osuši na zraku.
02:36
And as it's dryingsušenje, it's compressingsažimanje,
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Dok se suši, ona se i skuplja,
02:38
so what you're left with, dependingovisno on the reciperecept,
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tako da ono što ostane zavisno od recepta,
02:40
is something that's eitherbilo to
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je nešto nalik
02:42
like a really light-weightlagana, transparenttransparentan paperpapir,
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jako tankog providnog papira,
02:44
or something whichšto is much more like a flexiblefleksibilan vegetablepovrće leatherkoža.
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ili nešto što više liči na savitljivu kožu dobijenu od povrća.
02:48
And then you can eitherbilo to cutcut that out
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I onda možete ili rezati
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and sewšiti it conventionallykonvencionalno,
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ili šiti tradicionalno,
02:52
or you can use the wetmokro materialmaterijal
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ili možete koristiti mokri materijal
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to formobrazac it around a three-dimensionaltrodimenzionalno shapeoblik.
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da ga oblikujete oko trodimenzionalnog oblika
02:57
And as it evaporatesisparava,
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I dok se suši,
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it will knitknit itselfsam togetherzajedno, formingformiranje seamsšavova.
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sam će se krojiti, formirajući porube.
03:01
So the colorboja in this jacketjakna is comingdolaze purelyčisto from greenzeleno teačaj.
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Boja ove jakne dolazi od zelenog čaja.
03:04
I guesspretpostavite it alsotakođe looksizgleda a little bitbit like humančovjek skinkožu,
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Malo izgleda kao ljudska koža,
03:06
whichšto intriguesspletke me.
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što me intrigira.
03:09
SinceOd it's organicorganski,
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Pošto je organski,
03:11
I'm really keenžestoko to try and minimizeminimizirati the additiondodatak of any chemicalshemikalije.
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pokušavam da minimaliziram upotrebu bilo kakvih hemikalija.
03:14
I can make it changepromjena colorboja withoutbez usingkoristeći dyeboja
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Mogu učiniti da promjeni boju bez korištenja boje
03:17
by a processproces of irongvožđe oxidationoksidacije.
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kroz proces željezne oksidacije.
03:19
UsingKoristeći fruitvoće and vegetablepovrće stainingbojenje,
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Koristeći boje iz voća i povrća,
03:21
createstvoriti organicorganski patterningizvršnih struktura.
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kreirajući organske uzorke.
03:23
And usingkoristeći indigoindigo,
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I koristeći indigo,
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make it anti-microbialmikrofiber.
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čineći ga anti mikrobski.
03:27
And in factčinjenica, cottonpamuk
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Ustvari, pamuk
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would take up to 18 dipsspustio in indigoindigo
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bi trebalo zamočiti 18 puta u indigo
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to achievepostići a colorboja this darktamno.
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da se postigne boja ovako tamna.
03:34
And because of the super-absorbencySuper upijanja of this kindkind of celluloseceluloza,
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A zbog super apsorpcije ove vrste celuloze
03:37
it just takes one, and a really shortkratko one at that.
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potrebno je da se potopi samo jedanput, nakratko.
03:40
What I can't yetjoš uvek do is make it water-resistantVodootporan.
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Ono što još ne mogu uraditi je učiniti je vodootpornom.
03:43
So if I was to walkhoda outsidespolja in the rainkiša
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Ako bih izašla vani na kišu
03:46
wearingnosi this dresshaljina todaydanas,
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noseći ovu haljinu
03:48
I would immediatelyodmah startpočnite to absorbapsorbirati
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odmah bih počela apsorbirati
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hugeogromno amountsiznosi of watervoda.
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velike količine vode.
03:53
The dresshaljina would get really heavyteška,
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Haljina bi postala jako teška
03:55
and eventuallyna kraju the seamsšavova would probablyvjerovatno fallpada apartnaravno --
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i na kraju bi se vjerovatno raspala -
03:57
leavingodlazak me feelingosećanje ratherpre nakedgola.
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ostavaljajući me posve golu.
03:59
PossiblyEventualno a good performanceperformance piecekomad,
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Vjerovatno je dobar komad za izvedbe,
04:01
but definitelyDefinitivno not idealidealno for everydaysvaki dan wearnositi.
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ali definitnivno nije za svaki dan.
04:05
What I'm looking for
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Ono što tražim
04:07
is a way to give the materialmaterijal
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je način da dam ovom materijalu
04:09
the qualitieskvalitete that I need.
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kvalitete koje želim.
04:11
So what I want to do is say to a futurebudućnost bugbug,
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Ono što želim je da kažem budućoj bubi,
04:14
"SpinVrtnja me a threadnit.
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"Izvezi mi nit.
04:16
AlignPoravnajte it in this directionsmjer.
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Poravnaj u ovom pravcu.
04:18
Make it hydrophobichidrofobne.
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Učini je hidrofobnom.
04:20
And while you're at it,
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I dok to radiš,
04:22
just formobrazac it around this 3D shapeoblik."
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napravi je oko ovog trodimenzionalnog oblika."
04:25
BacterialBakterijski celluloseceluloza is actuallyzapravo alreadyveć beingbiće used for woundrana healinglečenje,
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Bakteriološka celuloza se već koristi u zalječenju rana,
04:29
and possiblymoguće in the futurebudućnost
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a moguće u budućnosti
04:31
for biocompatiblebiokompatibilni bloodkrv vesselsplovila,
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i za bio-kompatibilne krvne sudove,
04:34
possiblymoguće even replacementzamena bonekost tissuetkivo.
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a čak i za zamjenu koštanog tkiva.
04:36
But with syntheticsintetički biologybiologija,
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Ali uz sintetičku biologiju,
04:38
we can actuallyzapravo imaginezamislite engineeringinženjering this bacteriumbakterija
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možemo zapravo učiniti da ova bakterija
04:42
to produceproizvesti something
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napravi nešto
04:44
that givesdaje us the qualitykvaliteta,
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što nam daje kvalitet,
04:46
quantitykoličina and shapeoblik
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kvantitet i oblik
04:48
of materialmaterijal that we desireželja.
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materijala koji želimo.
04:50
ObviouslyOčito, as a designerdizajner, that's really excitinguzbudljivo
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Naravno, kao dizajneru, ovo je jako uzbudljivo.
04:53
because then I startpočnite to think, wowwow,
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Jer onda počinjem misliti, wow,
04:55
we could actuallyzapravo imaginezamislite
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možemo zamisliti da
04:57
growingraste consumablepotrošni materijali productsproizvodi.
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uzgajamo potrošne proizvode.
05:01
What excitesuzbuđuje me about usingkoristeći microbesmikroba
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Ono što me uzbuđuje oko ovih mikroba
05:04
is theirnjihova efficiencyefikasnost.
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je njihova uspješnost.
05:06
So we only growraste what we need.
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Uzgajamo samo ono što trebamo.
05:08
There's no wasteotpad.
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Nema otpadaka.
05:10
And in factčinjenica, we could make it from a wasteotpad streampotok --
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Ustvari, možemo to napraviti i od otpadaka -
05:13
so for exampleprimer,
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na primjer,
05:15
a wasteotpad sugaršećer streampotok
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otpadaka šećera
05:17
from a foodhrana processingobrada plantbiljka.
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iz fabrike hrane.
05:19
FinallyKonačno, at the endkraj of use, we could biodegradebiodegrade it naturallyprirodno
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Na kraju korištenja, ona može biodegradirati
05:22
alongzajedno with your vegetablepovrće peelingspilinga.
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zajedno sa ostacima povrća.
05:25
What I'm not suggestingsugerišući is that microbialmikrobi celluloseceluloza
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Ne govorim da će mikrobiološka celuloza
05:28
is going to be a replacementzamena
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biti zamjena
05:30
for cottonpamuk, leatherkoža or other textiletekstil materialsmaterijali.
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za pamuk, kožu i druge tekstilne materijale.
05:33
But I do think it could be quitesasvim a smartpametan and sustainableodrživ additiondodatak
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Ali mislim da može biti pametan i održiv dodatak
05:37
to our increasinglysve više preciousdragocen naturalprirodno resourcesresurse.
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našim sve cjenjenijim prirodnim resursima.
05:40
UltimatelyU konačnici, maybe it won'tneće even be fashionmoda
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Najzad, možda neće biti ni moda
05:42
where we see these microbesmikroba have theirnjihova impactuticaj.
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gdje ćemo vidjeti uticaj ovih mikroba.
05:44
We could, for exampleprimer, imaginezamislite
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Možemo, na primjer, zamisliti
05:46
growingraste a lamplampa, a chairstolica,
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uzgajanje lampe ili stolice,
05:49
a carauto or maybe even a housekuća.
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ili auta, ili možda i kuće.
05:52
So I guesspretpostavite what my questionpitanje to you is:
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Dakle moje pitanje vama je:
05:55
in the futurebudućnost, what would you chooseizaberite to growraste?
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u budućnosti, šta biste izabrali da uzgojite?
05:57
Thank you very much.
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Hvala vam puno.
05:59
(ApplausePljesak)
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(Aplauz)
06:08
BrunoBruno GiussaniGiussani: SuzanneSuzanne, just a curiosityradoznalost,
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Bruno Giussani: Suzanne, samo na brzinu,
06:10
what you're wearingnosi is not randomslučajno. (SuzanneSuzanne LeeLee: No.)
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ono što nosite nije slučajno. (Suzanne Lee: Ne.)
06:13
This is one of the jacketsjakne you grewporastao?
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Ovo je jedna od jakni koju ste uzgojili?
06:15
SLSL: Yes, it is.
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SL: Da, jeste.
06:17
It's probablyvjerovatno -- partdeo of the project'sprojekta still in processproces
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Vjerovatno je - dio projekta je još u jeku,
06:19
because this one
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jer ova
06:21
is actuallyzapravo biodegradingbiodegrading in frontfront of your eyesoči.
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se biodegradira pred našim očima.
06:23
(LaughterSmijeh)
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(Smijeh)
06:25
It's absorbingupija my sweatznoj, and it's feedinghranjenje on it.
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Apsorbira moj znoj, te se njime hrani.
06:28
BGBG: Okay, so we'llmi ćemo let you go and saveštedi it, and rescuespasavanje it.
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BG: Dobro, pustićemo Vas da idete i da je spasite.
06:30
SuzanneSuzanne LeeLee. (SLSL: Thank you.)
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Suzanne Lee. (SL: Hvala vam.)
06:33
(ApplausePljesak)
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(Aplauz)
Translated by Jasmin Panjeta
Reviewed by Mateja Nenadovic

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ABOUT THE SPEAKER
Suzanne Lee - Designer
TED Fellow Suzanne Lee is a fashion designer turned biological conjurer, who gleefully plays with new materials and processes.

Why you should listen

Fashion designer Suzanne Lee directs the BioCouture research project, which sprang from an idea in her book Fashioning the Future: Tomorrow’s Wardrobe, a seminal text on fashion and future technologies. Her research harnesses nature to propose a radical future fashion vision: Can we grow a dress from a vat of liquid?

Using bacterial-cellulose, Lee aims to address pressing ecological and sustainability issues around fashion and beyond. A Senior Research Fellow at Central Saint Martins, University of the Arts London, she is working with scientists to investigate whether synthetic biology can engineer optimized organisms for growing future consumer products

More profile about the speaker
Suzanne Lee | Speaker | TED.com