ABOUT THE SPEAKER
Holly Morris - Explorer and filmmaker
Holly Morris tells the stories of women around the world through documentary, television, print and the web.

Why you should listen

Holly Morris is a director, producer, writer and storyteller whose work spans media and continents. She is the author of Adventure Divas: Searching the Globe for a New Kind of Heroine (Random House) and writer/director and executuve producer of its companion PBS documentary series, "Adventure Divas". A former National Geographic Adventure columnist and widely anthologized essayist, Morris is also a regular contributor to The New York Times, among other publications. She presents the PBS televisin series "Globe Trekker," and "Treks in a Wild World," and also hosted "Outdoor Investigations" -- a series in which she investigates the scientific side of today's environmental and natural world mysteries. 

Morris has reported on the illegal caviar trade from Iran's Caspian Sea, sex trafficking from the brothels of India, and the global diaspora of Black Panthers from Cuba. Whether she's exploring underground Soviet missile silos, or the ship breaking yards of Bangladesh, Morris goes to the grassroots to tell a global story.

Her new film, The Babushkas of Chernobyl is about a surprising group of survivors living in the shadow of Chernobyl. Based on her award-winning essay of the same name (also published as "Ukraine: A Country of Women"), it won the Meredith Editorial Excellence Award, was reprinted in London's Daily Telegraph, and The Week and was selected for the book The Best Travel Writing (2012). The film, which has won numerous awards, including the Los Angeles Film Festival Jury Award for Directing, is being widely released in Spring 2016 for the 30th anniversary of the Chernobyl disaster.

 

More profile about the speaker
Holly Morris | Speaker | TED.com
TEDGlobal 2013

Holly Morris: Why stay in Chernobyl? Because it's home.

Holly Morris: Zergatik geratu Txernobilen? Gure etxea delako.

Filmed:
1,157,051 views

Txernobilen munduko istripu nuklear larriena gertatu zen eta, azken 27 urteotan, plantaren inguruko eremuari Esklusio Eremua deitzen diote. Halere, 200 bat pertsonek osatutako komunitatea hor bizi da (ia guztiak adineko emakumeak dira). Amama harro hauek ebakuatzeko aginduei egin zieten aurre, aberriarekin eta komunitatearekin duten loturek "erradioaktibitateari ere aurre egiten dioten indarrak" direlako.
- Explorer and filmmaker
Holly Morris tells the stories of women around the world through documentary, television, print and the web. Full bio

Double-click the English transcript below to play the video.

00:12
Three years ago, I was standing about a hundred yards
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Duela 3 urte, 100 metrora neukan
00:15
from Chernobyl nuclear reactor number four.
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4 zenbakiko Txernobilgo erreaktore nuklearra.
00:19
My Geiger counter dosimeter, which measures radiation,
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Erradiazio neurtzen duen dosimetro Geiger hau
00:22
was going berserk,
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erritmo frenetikoa hartzen ari zen.
00:23
and the closer I got, the more frenetic it became,
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Hurbildu ahala,
erritmoa gero eta frenetikoagoa zen.
00:27
and frantic. My God.
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Zoratu egin zen, izan ere.
00:30
I was there covering the 25th anniversary
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Munduko istripu nuklear larrienaren
25. urteurrena zen
00:32
of the world's worst nuclear accident,
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eta hara joan nintzen horren berri ematera.
00:35
as you can see by the look on my face,
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Aurpegian ikusiko didazuenez,
ez nuen joateko gogorik
00:37
reluctantly so, but with good reason,
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eta arrazoi sendoak neuzkan!
00:40
because the nuclear fire that burned for 11 days
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1986an 11 egunez sutan egon zen suak
00:44
back in 1986 released 400 times as much radiation
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400 bider erradiazio gehiago
izurtzen zuen
00:48
as the bomb dropped on Hiroshima,
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Hiroshiman lehertu zen bonbak baino.
00:50
and the sarcophagus, which is the covering
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Gainera, sarkofagoa,
00:53
over reactor number four,
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4. erreaktorea estaltzen duena,
00:54
which was hastily built 27 years ago,
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orain dela 27 urte azkar eraikita,
00:57
now sits cracked and rusted
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hor dago, apurtuta eta herdoilduta,
00:59
and leaking radiation.
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erradiazioa isurtzen.
01:01
So I was filming.
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Hor nengoen ni, filmatzen.
01:03
I just wanted to get the job done
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Lana amaitu besterik ez nuen nahi
01:04
and get out of there fast.
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eta hortik
ahalik eta azkarren aldendu.
01:07
But then, I looked into the distance,
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Momentu horretan,
urrunean ikusi nuen
01:09
and I saw some smoke coming from a farmhouse,
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landetxe batetik irteten zen kea.
01:12
and I'm thinking, who could be living here?
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Nor demontre
bizi daiteke hemen?
01:15
I mean, after all, Chernobyl's soil, water and air,
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Txernobilgo lurra, ura eta airea
01:18
are among the most highly contaminated on Earth,
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planetako kutsatuenetarikoak dira,
01:21
and the reactor sits at the the center of
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eta erreaktorea kokatuta dagoen
esklusio-eremua
01:23
a tightly regulated exclusion zone, or dead zone,
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hilda eta gogor erregulatuta dago.
01:26
and it's a nuclear police state, complete with border guards.
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Polizia eta mugako zaindariz betetako estatu nuklearra da.
01:30
You have to have dosimeter at all times, clicking away,
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Dosimetroa erabili behar da une guztietan,
01:32
you have to have a government minder,
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gobernuko eskolta bat behar duzu,
01:34
and there's draconian radiation rules
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erradiazio erregulazio oso zorrotza dago,
01:37
and constant contamination monitoring.
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eta etengabeko
kutsaduraren kontrola egiten da.
01:41
The point being, no human being
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Gauzak horrela,
eremu hil honetatik hurbil
01:44
should be living anywhere near the dead zone.
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inork ez luke bizi beharko.
01:46
But they are.
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Baina egon, badago.
01:48
It turns out an unlikely community
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Antza, 200 lagunek osatutako talde bat
01:51
of some 200 people are living inside the zone.
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eremuan bizi da, sinesgaitza bada ere.
01:54
They're called self-settlers.
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Samosely -edo okupak- deitzen dira.
01:56
And almost all of them are women,
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Gehienak emakumezkoak dira.
01:59
the men having shorter lifespans
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Gizonezkoen bizi-itxaropena txikiagoa da
02:00
in part due to overuse of alcohol, cigarettes,
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alkohola gehiegi edateagatik, tabakoa
02:03
if not radiation.
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edo erradiazioagatik.
02:05
Hundreds of thousands of people were evacuated
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Ehunka mila pertsona ebakuatu egin zuten
02:07
at the time of the accident,
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istripua gertatu zenean
02:09
but not everybody accepted that fate.
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baina batzuek
ez zuten erabaki hori onartu.
02:11
The women in the zone, now in their 70s and 80s,
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Eremuko emakumeak,
orain 70-80 urtekoak,
02:14
are the last survivors of a group who defied authorities
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agintariei aurre egin zien taldeko azkenak dira.
02:17
and, it would seem, common sense,
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Sen onari jaramonik ez eginez,
02:19
and returned to their ancestral homes inside the zone.
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bueltatu ziren
eremu barruan dauden arbasoen etxeetara.
02:23
They did so illegally.
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Legez kontra bueltatu ziren.
02:25
As one woman put it to a soldier
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Zera esan zion emakume batek
02:27
who was trying to evacuate her for a second time,
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bigarren aldiz
ebakuatu nahi zuen soldadu bati:
02:30
"Shoot me and dig the grave.
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"Tiro egin niri
eta hilobia prestatu.
02:32
Otherwise, I'm going home."
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Bestela, etxera joango naiz".
02:34
Now why would they return to such deadly soil?
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Zergatik nahiko zuten
eremu hil horretara bueltatu?
02:37
I mean, were they unaware of the risks
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Ez zituzten arriskuak ezagutzen?
02:39
or crazy enough to ignore them, or both?
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Kasurik ez egiteraino zoratu al ziren?
Edo biak?
02:42
The thing is, they see their lives
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Kontua da oso ikuspegi desberdina dutela
02:43
and the risks they run decidedly differently.
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bizitzari buruz
eta arriskuei buruz.
02:47
Now around Chernobyl, there are scattered ghost villages,
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Orain Txernobil inguruan
herri fantasma sakabanatuak daude,
02:50
eerily silent, strangely charming, bucolic,
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isiltasun beldurgarrian,
arraroki xarmagarriak, bukolikoak,
02:54
totally contaminated.
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eta kutsatuak oso.
02:56
Many were bulldozed under at the time of the accident,
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Batzuk eraitsi egin zituzten
istripua gertatu zenean,
02:59
but a few are left like this,
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baina beste batzuk
horrela jarraitzen dute;
03:01
kind of silent vestiges to the tragedy.
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istripuaren aztarna isilak dira, nolabait.
03:05
Others have a few residents in them,
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Beste batzuetan biztanle batzuk daude,
03:07
one or two "babushkas," or "babas,"
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"babushka" edo "baba" bat edo bi,
03:10
which are the Russian and Ukrainian words for grandmother.
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horrela deitzen diete-eta
amonei, errusieraz eta ukraineraz.
03:13
Another village might have six or seven residents.
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Beste herri batek
sei edo zazpi biztanle izan ditzake.
03:16
So this is the strange demographic of the zone --
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Horrela da eremuaren demografia bitxia:
03:19
isolated alone together.
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isolatua, bakartua, elkarrekin.
03:21
And when I made my way to that piping chimney
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Urrutian ikusi nuen
03:24
I'd seen in the distance,
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kea zerion tximiniaranzko bidean,
03:25
I saw Hanna Zavorotnya, and I met her.
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Hanna Zavorotnyia ikusi
eta beregana joan nintzen.
03:29
She's the self-declared mayor of Kapavati village,
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Kapavati herriko alkatea da,
berak bere burua izendatu zuen.
03:32
population eight.
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Zortzi biztanle ditu herriak.
03:34
(Laughter)
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(Barreak)
03:36
And she said to me, when I asked her the obvious,
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Agerikoa galdetu nionean,
zera esan zidan:
03:39
"Radiation doesn't scare me. Starvation does."
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"Erradiazioak ez nau beldurtzen.
Goseteak bai."
03:43
And you have to remember, these women have
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Kontuan izatekoa da
emakume hauek
03:44
survived the worst atrocities of the 20th century.
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20.mendeko basatikeria larrienak
biziraun dituztela.
03:48
Stalin's enforced famines of the 1930s, the Holodomor,
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30ko hamarkadan Stalinek eragindako goseteek, Holomodorrek,
03:52
killed millions of Ukrainians,
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milioika ukraniar hil zituzten,
03:54
and they faced the Nazis in the '40s,
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eta 40ko hamarkadan
naziei egin zieten aurre.
03:56
who came through slashing, burning, raping,
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Azken hauek
ebaki, erre, bortxatu egin zituzten.
03:59
and in fact many of these women
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Izan ere, hauetariko emakume batzuk
04:00
were shipped to Germany as forced labor.
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Alemaniara
bidali zituzten lanera gogoz kontra.
04:03
So when a couple decades into Soviet rule,
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Beraz, sobietarren menpe
bi hamarkadan egonda,
04:06
Chernobyl happened,
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Txernobilekoa gertatu zenean,
04:07
they were unwilling to flee in the face of an enemy
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ez zuten alde egin izan nahi
04:10
that was invisible.
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ikusezina zen etsai batengatik.
04:12
So they returned to their villages
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Haien herrietara bueltatu eta gero,
04:14
and are told they're going to get sick and die soon,
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gaixotu eta hil egingo zirela
esan zietenean,
04:18
but five happy years, their logic goes,
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zera pentsatu zuten:
poztasuneko 5 urte hobeak dira
04:20
is better than 10 stuck in a high rise
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10 urte Kieveko
kanpoaldean baino,
04:23
on the outskirts of Kiev,
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etxe-orratz batean sartuta,
04:25
separated from the graves of their mothers
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eta arbasoen hilobietatik bananduta,
04:27
and fathers and babies,
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ama, aita eta umeen hilobietatik,
04:29
the whisper of stork wings on a spring afternoon.
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zikoinen hegoen murmurretik
udaberriko arratsaldetan.
04:33
For them, environmental contamination
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Haien ustez,
ingurumenaren kutsadura
04:35
may not be the worst sort of devastation.
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ez da hondamendirik larriena.
04:38
It turns out this holds true
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Eta kontua da,
04:39
for other species as well.
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beste espezie batzuentzat ere
hau egia dela.
04:41
Wild boar, lynx, moose, they've all returned
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Basurdeak, katamotzak, altzeak...
04:44
to the region in force,
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Denak bueltatu ziren eremura.
04:46
the very real, very negative effects of radiation
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Erradiazioaren eragin
benetan kaltegarriek
04:49
being trumped by the upside of a mass exodus
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partida galdu zuten
04:53
of humans.
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gizakien exodo masiboen aurka.
04:55
The dead zone, it turns out, is full of life.
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Eremu hilari, antza, bizitza dario.
04:59
And there is a kind of heroic resilience,
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Pertsona hauek
erresilientzia heroikoa dute,
05:02
a kind of plain-spoken pragmatism to those
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benetako pragmatismo moduko bat,
05:05
who start their day at 5 a.m.
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5:00etan hasten dute eguna
05:08
pulling water from a well
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putzu batetik ura ateratzen;
05:10
and end it at midnight
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eta gauerdian bukatzen dute
05:12
poised to beat a bucket with a stick
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makilarekin ontzi bati
kolpeak ematen
05:14
and scare off wild boar that might mess with their potatoes,
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patatak hondatuko dituen
basurde bat uxatzeko.
05:17
their only company a bit of homemade moonshine vodka.
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Haiek egindako legez kanpoko vodka dute
lagun bakarra.
05:22
And there's a patina of simple defiance among them.
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Eta badago haiengan
desafio kutsu bat.
05:25
"They told us our legs would hurt, and they do. So what?"
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"Esan ziguten hanketan mina izango genuela,
eta hala da. Eta zer?"
05:29
I mean, what about their health?
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Zer du-eta haien osasunak?
05:31
The benefits of hardy, physical living,
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Bizitza fisiko eta gogor baten abantailak,
05:34
but an environment made toxic
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eta ingurumen toxiko bat
05:35
by a complicated, little-understood enemy, radiation.
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gutxi ulertutako eta zaila den
etsai batek kutsatuta: erradiazioa.
05:39
It's incredibly difficult to parse.
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Oso zaila da arazoa aztertzea.
05:41
Health studies from the region
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Eremuan egindako osasun ikerketak
05:43
are conflicting and fraught.
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ez datoz bat.
05:46
The World Health Organization
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Munduko Osasun Erakundeak, azkenean,
05:47
puts the number of Chernobyl-related deaths
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Txernobilgo eraginagatik,
05:50
at 4,000, eventually.
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4.000 hildako zenbatu zituen.
05:52
Greenpeace and other organizations
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Greenpeacek eta beste erakunde batzuek
05:55
put that number in the tens of thousands.
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hamaika mila zenbatzen dituzte.
05:58
Now everybody agrees that thyroid cancers
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Denok dakigu tiroideko minbizi kasuak
06:01
are sky high, and that Chernobyl evacuees
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izugarrizkoak direla,
eta Txernobilgo ebakuatuek
06:04
suffer the trauma of relocated peoples everywhere:
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leku guztietako
ebakuatuen traumak dituztela:
06:07
higher levels of anxiety, depression, alcoholism,
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antsietate-maila altua,
depresioa, alkoholismoa,
06:10
unemployment and, importantly,
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langabezia eta, bereziki,
06:12
disrupted social networks.
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gizarte-sare nahastuak.
06:15
Now, like many of you,
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Zuetariko askok bezala,
06:18
I have moved maybe 20, 25 times in my life.
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ni ere etxez aldatu naiz
20-25 aldiz bizitza osoan.
06:22
Home is a transient concept.
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"Etxea" oso kontzeptu iragankorra da.
06:26
I have a deeper connection to my laptop
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Ordenagailuarekin
daukadan lotura sakonagoa da
06:28
than any bit of soil.
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edozein lurrekin
daukadana baino.
06:32
So it's hard for us to understand, but home
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Zaila egiten zaigu ulertzea
06:35
is the entire cosmos of the rural babushka,
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baina etxea da
babushkaren kosmos osoa,
06:38
and connection to the land is palpable.
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bere lurrarekiko lotura
agerikoa da.
06:41
And perhaps because these Ukrainian women
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Emakume ukrainar hauek
06:43
were schooled under the Soviets
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sobietarren garaian ikasi zuten
06:45
and versed in the Russian poets,
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eta olerkari errusiarrak
ezagutzen zituzten.
06:47
aphorisms about these ideas
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Horregatik, hain zuzen ere,
06:49
slip from their mouths all the time.
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aforismo ugari
erabiltzen dituzte.
06:51
"If you leave, you die."
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"Alde egiten baduzu,
hil egingo zara."
06:54
"Those who left are worse off now.
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"Alde egin zutenak
orain okerrago daude.
06:56
They are dying of sadness."
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Tristurak akabatuta daude."
06:58
"Motherland is motherland. I will never leave."
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"Aberria da aberria.
Nik inoiz ez dut alde egingo."
07:02
What sounds like faith, soft faith,
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Fede-kontua ematen du,
fede biguna,
07:05
may actually be fact,
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baina egia bihur daiteke.
07:09
because the surprising truth --
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Ikerketak ez egon arren,
07:10
I mean, there are no studies, but the truth seems to be
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ematen du egia bihurtu dela,
07:13
that these women who returned to their homes
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eta etxera bueltatu diren
emakume hauek,
07:15
and have lived on some of the most radioactive land
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azken 27 urtean
planetako lur erradiaktiboenean
07:17
on Earth for the last 27 years,
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bizi izan diren emakumeak,
07:19
have actually outlived their counterparts
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etxez aldatzea
onartu zutenak baino
07:22
who accepted relocation,
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gehiago bizi izan direla
07:24
by some estimates up to 10 years.
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10 urte baino gehiago,
batzuen kalkuluen arabera.
07:28
How could this be?
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2180
Nola izan daiteke?
07:30
Here's a theory: Could it be
166
438642
1699
Hona hemen teoria bat:
07:32
that those ties to ancestral soil,
167
440341
3065
Lurrarekiko lotura honek
07:35
the soft variables reflected in their aphorisms,
168
443406
2566
eta aforismoetan
islatzen diren aldagaiek,
07:37
actually affect longevity?
169
445972
2864
bizitzaren iraupenean
eragina izan al dezakete?
07:40
The power of motherland
170
448836
1759
Aberriak duen boterea,
07:42
so fundamental to that part of the world
171
450595
2458
munduko leku horietan
hain oinarrizkoa dena,
07:45
seems palliative.
172
453053
1812
antza, aringarria da.
07:46
Home and community are forces
173
454865
2797
Etxea eta komunitatea
botereak dira
07:49
that rival even radiation.
174
457662
4060
erradioaktibitateari ere
aurre egiten diotenak.
07:53
Now radiation or not,
175
461722
2478
Erradioaktibitatea
alde batera utzita,
07:56
these women are at the end of their lives.
176
464200
2604
emakume hauek
bizitzaren amaieran daude.
07:58
In the next decade, the zone's human residents will be gone,
177
466804
3993
Hurrengo hamarkadan,
bertako egoiliarrak desagertu egingo dira
08:02
and it will revert to a wild, radioactive place,
178
470797
4227
eta hura eremu basati
eta erradioaktibo bihurtuko da.
08:07
full only of animals and occasionally
179
475024
3114
Animaliak eta, noizbehinka,
zientzialari ausartak
08:10
daring, flummoxed scientists.
180
478138
3092
eta despistatuak besterik
ez dira egongo.
08:13
But the spirit and existence of the babushkas,
181
481230
3102
Baina babushken
existentziak eta izpirituak
08:16
whose numbers have been halved
182
484332
1707
zeinen kopurua erdira murriztu den
08:18
in the three years I've known them,
183
486039
2142
ni eurekin egon naizen
hiru urteetan,
08:20
will leave us with powerful new templates
184
488181
2198
gogoeta eta hausnarketarako
08:22
to think about and grapple with,
185
490379
2016
eredu indartsu berriak utziko dizkigute
08:24
about the relative nature of risk,
186
492395
3663
arriskuaren izaeraren
erlatibitateari buruz,
08:28
about transformative connections to home,
187
496058
3847
etxearekiko lotura
eraldatzaileari buruz,
08:31
and about the magnificent tonic
188
499905
3546
eta suspergarri zoragarriak diren
08:35
of personal agency and self-determination.
189
503451
3853
autokontzientzia
eta autodeterminazioari buruz.
08:39
Thank you.
190
507304
1935
Eskerrik asko.
08:41
(Applause)
191
509239
4000
(Txaloak)
Translated by Silvia Ribes
Reviewed by Begoña Laka

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ABOUT THE SPEAKER
Holly Morris - Explorer and filmmaker
Holly Morris tells the stories of women around the world through documentary, television, print and the web.

Why you should listen

Holly Morris is a director, producer, writer and storyteller whose work spans media and continents. She is the author of Adventure Divas: Searching the Globe for a New Kind of Heroine (Random House) and writer/director and executuve producer of its companion PBS documentary series, "Adventure Divas". A former National Geographic Adventure columnist and widely anthologized essayist, Morris is also a regular contributor to The New York Times, among other publications. She presents the PBS televisin series "Globe Trekker," and "Treks in a Wild World," and also hosted "Outdoor Investigations" -- a series in which she investigates the scientific side of today's environmental and natural world mysteries. 

Morris has reported on the illegal caviar trade from Iran's Caspian Sea, sex trafficking from the brothels of India, and the global diaspora of Black Panthers from Cuba. Whether she's exploring underground Soviet missile silos, or the ship breaking yards of Bangladesh, Morris goes to the grassroots to tell a global story.

Her new film, The Babushkas of Chernobyl is about a surprising group of survivors living in the shadow of Chernobyl. Based on her award-winning essay of the same name (also published as "Ukraine: A Country of Women"), it won the Meredith Editorial Excellence Award, was reprinted in London's Daily Telegraph, and The Week and was selected for the book The Best Travel Writing (2012). The film, which has won numerous awards, including the Los Angeles Film Festival Jury Award for Directing, is being widely released in Spring 2016 for the 30th anniversary of the Chernobyl disaster.

 

More profile about the speaker
Holly Morris | Speaker | TED.com