ABOUT THE SPEAKER
Carolyn Steel - Food urbanist
Food is a shared necessity -- but also a shared way of thinking, argues Carolyn Steel. Looking at food networks offers an unusual and illuminating way to explore how cities evolved.

Why you should listen

The question of how to feed cities may be one of the biggest contemporary questions, yet it's never asked: we take for granted that if we walk into a store or a restaurant, food will be there, magically coming from somewhere. Yet, think of it this way: just in London, every single day, 30 million meals must be provided. Without a reliable food supply, even the most modern city would collapse quickly. And most people today eat food of whose provenance they are unaware.

Architect and author Carolyn Steel uses food as a medium to "read" cities and understand how they work. In her book Hungry City she traces -- and puts into historical context -- food's journey from land to urban table and thence to sewer. Cities, like people, are what they eat.

More profile about the speaker
Carolyn Steel | Speaker | TED.com
TEDGlobal 2009

Carolyn Steel: How food shapes our cities

Carolyn Steel: 食物如何塑造我们的城市

Filmed:
1,235,739 views

在一个伦敦那么大的城市里,每天都要消耗掉三千万吨粮食。但是,这些食物都从何而来?建筑师Carolyn Steel 探讨每天喂养一个城市的神话,介绍古代的食物运输如何影响城市的形成和发展。
- Food urbanist
Food is a shared necessity -- but also a shared way of thinking, argues Carolyn Steel. Looking at food networks offers an unusual and illuminating way to explore how cities evolved. Full bio

Double-click the English transcript below to play the video.

00:12
How do you feed饲料 a city?
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如何喂养一个城市?
00:16
It's one of the great questions问题 of our time.
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这是我们这个时代的一个重大问题之一。
00:18
Yet然而 it's one that's rarely很少 asked.
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然而很少人会问这个问题。
00:20
We take it for granted理所当然 that if we go into a shop
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我们习以为常了, 我们走进商店的时候
00:23
or restaurant餐厅, or indeed确实 into this theater's戏剧的 foyer门厅 in about an hour's小时 time,
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走进餐厅的时候,或是一个小时后我们进入这个剧院的门厅
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there is going to be food餐饮 there waiting等候 for us,
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总会有食物等着我们
00:30
having magically神奇 come from somewhere某处.
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它们很神奇地从某个地方冒出来
00:32
But when you think that every一切 day for a city the size尺寸 of London伦敦,
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然而,当你想像每一天,在一个伦敦那么大的城市,
00:37
enough足够 food餐饮 has to be produced生成,
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要生产足够的食物
00:40
transported, bought and sold出售,
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运输、交易这些食物,
00:43
cooked, eaten吃过, disposed处置 of,
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烹饪,食用,最后扔弃它们
00:47
and that something similar类似 has to happen发生 every一切 day
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而且类似的事情每天都发生着
00:49
for every一切 city on earth地球,
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在地球上的每一个城市都如此
00:51
it's remarkable卓越 that cities城市 get fed美联储 at all.
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每个城市都有食物供应,这件事很不可思议
00:54
We live生活 in places地方 like this as if
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我们住在每天有食物供应的城市,仿佛
00:56
they're the most natural自然 things in the world世界,
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这是世界上最自然的事情,
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forgetting遗忘 that because we're animals动物
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我们忘记了我们也是动物,
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and that we need to eat,
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所以我们需要进食,
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we're actually其实 as dependent依赖的 on the natural自然 world世界
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事实上我们要依赖自然界
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as our ancient ancestors祖先 were.
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就如同我们的祖先要依赖自然界一样。
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And as more of us move移动 into cities城市,
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随着我们越来越多人到城市生活,
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more of that natural自然 world世界 is being存在
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越来越多的自然界正在
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transformed改造 into extraordinary非凡 landscapes景观 like the one behind背后 me --
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变成我身后的这些特别的景象
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it's soybean黄豆 fields领域 in Mato马托格罗索 Grosso格罗索 in Brazil巴西 --
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这是巴西Mata Grosso的大豆田
01:20
in order订购 to feed饲料 us.
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用来种食物养活我们
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These are extraordinary非凡 landscapes景观,
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这些特别的景象
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but few少数 of us ever get to see them.
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我们很少人亲眼目睹过
01:27
And increasingly日益 these landscapes景观
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越来越多的这些地貌
01:29
are not just feeding馈送 us either.
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不只是生产食物养活我们
01:31
As more of us move移动 into cities城市,
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随着我们越来越多人移居城市
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more of us are eating meat,
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越来越多人吃肉
01:35
so that a third第三 of the annual全年 grain粮食 crop作物 globally全球
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所以每年全球有三分之一的粮食
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now gets得到 fed美联储 to animals动物
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现在是用来喂动物
01:40
rather than to us human人的 animals动物.
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而不是喂养我们人类
01:42
And given特定 that it takes three times as much grain粮食 --
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虽然说需要3倍的粮食
01:46
actually其实 ten times as much grain粮食 --
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事实上却是10倍的食物
01:48
to feed饲料 a human人的 if it's passed通过 through通过 an animal动物 first,
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来喂养一个人,如果从喂养动物的粮食也计算在内
01:51
that's not a very efficient高效 way of feeding馈送 us.
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这并不是一个很有效率的喂养方式
01:56
And it's an escalating不断升级 problem问题 too.
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这是一个越来越重要的问题
01:58
By 2050, it's estimated预计 that twice两次 the number
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到2050年,预测有两倍的人口
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of us are going to be living活的 in cities城市.
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将在城市居住
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And it's also estimated预计 that there is going to be twice两次 as much
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预测到也将需要两倍的
02:05
meat and dairy乳制品 consumed消费.
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肉和奶类制品的消耗
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So meat and urbanism城市化 are rising升起 hand in hand.
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所以肉的消耗和城市化是共同发展的
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And that's going to pose提出 an enormous巨大 problem问题.
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这就将引发一个很重大的问题
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Six billion十亿 hungry饥饿 carnivores食肉动物 to feed饲料,
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要喂养60亿的饥饿人口
02:17
by 2050.
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在2050年
02:21
That's a big problem问题. And actually其实 if we carry携带 on as we are,
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这是个大问题.如果我们还像我们现在这么发展,
02:23
it's a problem问题 we're very unlikely不会 to be able能够 to solve解决.
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我们很可能没法在2050年解决这个问题
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Nineteen十九 million百万 hectares公顷 of rainforest雨林 are lost丢失 every一切 year
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每年有1900万公顷的雨林消失
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to create创建 new arable可耕的 land土地.
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它们用作开垦新的耕地
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Although虽然 at the same相同 time we're losing失去 an equivalent当量 amount
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尽管与此同时我们也失去等量的
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of existing现有 arables阿拉布尔 to salinization盐化 and erosion侵蚀.
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现有耕地,因为盐碱化或水土流失
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We're very hungry饥饿 for fossil化石 fuels燃料 too.
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我们也急需化石燃料
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It takes about 10 calories卡路里 to produce生产 every一切 calorie卡路里
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在欧洲,我们需要10卡路里的能量来生产1卡路里
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of food餐饮 that we consume消耗 in the West西.
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为我们消耗的食物
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And even though虽然 there is food餐饮 that we are producing生产 at great cost成本,
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尽管这些食物我们都是花了很多功夫才生产出来
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we don't actually其实 value it.
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事实上我们却不珍惜它们
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Half the food餐饮 produced生成 in the USA美国 is currently目前 thrown抛出 away.
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在美国有一半食物被扔弃
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And to end结束 all of this, at the end结束 of this long process处理,
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最终,在这漫长过程的最后
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we're not even managing管理的 to feed饲料 the planet行星 properly正确.
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我们将没法养活我们这个地球
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A billion十亿 of us are obese肥胖, while a further进一步 billion十亿 starve饿死.
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我们中10亿人肥胖,还有多于10亿的人处于饥饿中
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None没有 of it makes品牌 very much sense.
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这些都没有道理
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And when you think that 80 percent百分 of global全球 trade贸易 in food餐饮 now
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当你发现现在80%的全球食物贸易
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is controlled受控 by just five multinational跨国 corporations公司,
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仅由五家跨国公司控制,
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it's a grim严峻 picture图片.
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这是挺可怕的
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As we're moving移动 into cities城市, the world世界 is also embracing拥抱 a Western西 diet饮食.
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随着我们搬进城市,世界正在接受西方的饮食
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And if we look to the future未来,
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如果我们展望未来
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it's an unsustainable不可持续的 diet饮食.
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这不是个可持续的饮食方式
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So how did we get here?
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我们怎么会走到这一步?
03:32
And more importantly重要的, what are we going to do about it?
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更重要的是,我们应该怎么做?
03:35
Well, to answer回答 the slightly easier更轻松 question first,
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先回答那个较简单的问题,首先
03:39
about 10,000 years年份 ago, I would say,
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我想说,在大概1万年前
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is the beginning开始 of this process处理
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是这个过程的开始
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in the ancient Near East,
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在古代的中东地区
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known已知 as the Fertile Crescent新月.
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也就是广大的新月状的地区
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Because, as you can see, it was crescent新月 shaped成形.
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因为你可以看到它是新月形的
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And it was also fertile.
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同时它也是广大的
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And it was here, about 10,000 years年份 ago,
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就在这里,大概1万年前
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that two extraordinary非凡 inventions发明,
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2大伟大的发明
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agriculture农业 and urbanism城市化, happened发生
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农业和城市化在此发生
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roughly大致 in the same相同 place地点 and at the same相同 time.
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几乎在同时,同一地点
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This is no accident事故,
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这并不是偶然
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because agriculture农业 and cities城市 are bound together一起. They need each other.
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因为农业和城市是紧密联系的.它们需要彼此
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Because it was discovery发现 of grain粮食
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因为粮食的发现
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by our ancient ancestors祖先 for the first time
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我们的远古祖先,第一次
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that produced生成 a food餐饮 source资源 that was large enough足够
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第一次生产出足够的粮食
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and stable稳定 enough足够 to support支持 permanent常驻 settlements定居点.
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并且产量稳地,这帮助他们长期居住下来
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And if we look at what those settlements定居点 were like,
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如果我们看一下当时那些居住地
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we see they were compact紧凑.
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我们可以看到他们是紧密的
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They were surrounded包围 by productive生产的 farm农场 land土地
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他们被农田围绕
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and dominated占主导地位 by large temple寺庙 complexes复合
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并由一些大的庙宇统领着
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like this one at Ur乌尔,
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例如这一个在乌尔的神殿
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that were, in fact事实, effectively有效,
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事实上,他们是很有效的
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spiritualized精神化, central中央 food餐饮 distribution分配 centers中心.
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精神统领,食物分发中心,两者结合
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Because it was the temples寺庙 that organized有组织的 the harvest收成,
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因为这些神殿组织耕作
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gathered云集 in the grain粮食, offered提供 it to the gods,
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收集这些粮食,供奉给诸神
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and then offered提供 the grain粮食 that the gods didn't eat back to the people.
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然后把诸神没吃的食物发还给人们
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So, if you like,
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所以
04:47
the whole整个 spiritual精神 and physical物理 life of these cities城市
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这些城市的精神和物质生活
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was dominated占主导地位 by the grain粮食 and the harvest收成
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都用粮食和收成掌控
04:52
that sustained持续 them.
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并维持城市的生活
04:55
And in fact事实, that's true真正 of every一切 ancient city.
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事实上,过去的每个城市都是如此
04:58
But of course课程 not all of them were that small.
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当然,并不是每个都是那么小的城市
05:00
Famously有名, Rome罗马 had about a million百万 citizens公民
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比如很著名的罗马城有大约100万居民
05:03
by the first century世纪 A.D.
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在公元一世纪的之前
05:05
So how did a city like this feed饲料 itself本身?
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那么,这样的城市是如何维持供给的呢?
05:09
The answer回答 is what I call "ancient food餐饮 miles英里."
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在我眼里,我把答案称作“古老的城市之路”
05:12
Basically基本上, Rome罗马 had access访问 to the sea,
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基本上,罗马有通往海洋的道路
05:15
which哪一个 made制作 it possible可能 for it to import进口 food餐饮 from a very long way away.
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这样使从很远的地方进口食物成为可能
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This is the only way it was possible可能 to do this in the ancient world世界,
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这样是在古代能实现的唯一的方法
05:21
because it was very difficult to transport运输 food餐饮 over roads道路,
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因为陆上运输相当困难
05:24
which哪一个 were rough.
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鉴于路况不好
05:26
And the food餐饮 obviously明显 went off very quickly很快.
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而且食物的消耗是很快的
05:28
So Rome罗马 effectively有效 waged发动 war战争
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所以罗马常常发动战争
05:30
on places地方 like Carthage迦太基 and Egypt埃及
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攻打像迦太基和埃及那样的国家
05:33
just to get its paws爪子 on their grain粮食 reserves储量.
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仅仅是为了得到他们的粮食储备
05:35
And, in fact事实, you could say that the expansion扩张 of the Empire帝国
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其实,事实上,你可以把帝国的扩张
05:38
was really sort分类 of one long, drawn out
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理解为一种长期的
05:41
militarized军事化 shopping购物 spree大礼包, really.
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军事化的购物狂欢
05:43
(Laughter笑声)
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(笑)
05:45
In fact事实 -- I love the fact事实, I just have to mention提到 this:
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事实上,我喜欢这个事实。我不得不指出的是
05:47
Rome罗马 in fact事实 used to import进口 oysters生蚝 from London伦敦,
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罗马(从英国进口牡蛎)
05:50
at one stage阶段. I think that's extraordinary非凡.
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在一个时期。我认为这非常特别
05:52
So Rome罗马 shaped成形 its hinterland腹地
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所以罗马形成自己的海岸线
05:55
through通过 its appetite食欲.
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根据他的口味
05:57
But the interesting有趣 thing is that the other thing also
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但是还有一件有趣的事情
05:59
happened发生 in the pre-industrial前工业 world世界.
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发生在前工业化的世界
06:01
If we look at a map地图 of London伦敦 in the 17th century世纪,
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如果我们看看十七世纪伦敦的地图
06:04
we can see that its grain粮食, which哪一个 is coming未来 in from the Thames泰晤士,
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我们可以看见作物从泰晤士河畔出产的
06:07
along沿 the bottom底部 of this map地图.
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位于地图的底部
06:09
So the grain粮食 markets市场 were to the south of the city.
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因为市场在城市的南部
06:12
And the roads道路 leading领导 up from them
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道路从那里
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to Cheapside奇普赛德, which哪一个 was the main主要 market市场,
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通向主要消费市场戚普塞街(位于伦敦)
06:16
were also grain粮食 markets市场.
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这里也是粮食的主要消费市场
06:18
And if you look at the name名称 of one of those streets街道,
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如果我们随便看看这里的一条街道的名字
06:20
Bread面包 Street, you can tell
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BREAD(面包)街,你可以明白
06:23
what was going on there 300 years年份 ago.
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三百年前这里都发生了什么
06:26
And the same相同 of course课程 was true真正 for fish.
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这个道理同样使用于鱼类
06:28
Fish was, of course课程, coming未来 in by river as well. Same相同 thing.
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鱼当然是从河里面打捞出来的
06:31
And of course课程 Billingsgate灵斯, famously著名, was London's伦敦 fish market市场,
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Billlingsgate是伦敦有名的卖鱼市场
06:34
operating操作 on-site现场 here until直到 the mid-中-1980s.
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在1980年之前
06:38
Which哪一个 is extraordinary非凡, really, when you think about it.
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这是很特别的,真的,当你仔细想想
06:40
Everybody每个人 else其他 was wandering飘零 around
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每个人都在这里游荡
06:42
with mobile移动 phones手机 that looked看着 like bricks砖块
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拿着像转头一样的大哥大
06:44
and sort分类 of smelly fish happening事件 down on the port港口.
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还有,在港口还有发臭的鱼
06:47
This is another另一个 thing about food餐饮 in cities城市:
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这是在城市中关于食物的另一件事情
06:50
Once一旦 its roots into the city are established既定,
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一旦一种食物在某个城市站稳脚跟
06:53
they very rarely很少 move移动.
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它的地位很难被动摇
06:55
Meat is a very different不同 story故事
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肉是一个非常不同的故事了
06:57
because, of course课程, animals动物 could walk步行 into the city.
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因为,动物自己走向城市
06:59
So much of London's伦敦 meat
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因此,伦敦消费的大量肉类
07:01
was coming未来 from the northwest西北,
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是从西北方过来的
07:03
from Scotland苏格兰 and Wales威尔士.
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从苏格兰和威尔士
07:05
So it was coming未来 in, and arriving到达 at the city at the northwest西北,
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当他们过来,抵达城市的西北方
07:08
which哪一个 is why Smithfield史密斯菲尔德,
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这就说明了为什么 Smithfield
07:10
London's伦敦 very famous著名 meat market市场, was located位于 up there.
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伦敦一个非常有名的肉类市场,在这里产生
07:13
Poultry家禽 was coming未来 in from East Anglia安格利亚 and so on, to the northeast东北.
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家禽从Anglia的东部来,去往东北部
07:17
I feel a bit like a weather天气 woman女人 doing this. Anyway无论如何,
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我感觉这有点像一个天气播报员
07:18
and so the birds鸟类 were coming未来 in
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然后鸟儿都飞过来了
07:22
with their feet protected保护 with little canvas帆布 shoes.
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它们的脚被小帆布鞋包裹着
07:25
And then when they hit击中 the eastern end结束
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然后当它们在东部降落的时候
07:27
of Cheapside奇普赛德, that's where they were sold出售,
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具体说来是在戚普塞街,也就是它们被卖掉的地方
07:29
which哪一个 is why it's called Poultry家禽.
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这也就是戚普塞街被称为“家禽”街的原因
07:31
And, in fact事实, if you look at the map地图 of any city
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事实上,如果你看看任何一个城市的地图
07:34
built内置 before the industrial产业 age年龄,
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在工业化时代之前
07:38
you can trace跟踪 food餐饮 coming未来 in to it.
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你能够发现食物是如何进入城市的
07:40
You can actually其实 see how it was physically物理 shaped成形 by food餐饮,
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事实上,你可以看出食物是如何塑造一个城市的
07:43
both by reading the names of the streets街道, which哪一个 give you a lot of clues线索.
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通过阅读街道的名称,你就会发现很多线索
07:46
Friday星期五 Street, in a previous以前 life,
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星期五街,在过去的日子中
07:48
is where you went to buy购买 your fish on a Friday星期五.
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是一个在星期五买鱼的地方
07:50
But also you have to imagine想像 it full充分 of food餐饮.
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但是,你同时也必须想象那里到处都是食物
07:52
Because the streets街道 and the public上市 spaces空间
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因为街道和公共区域
07:55
were the only places地方 where food餐饮 was bought and sold出售.
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是食物买卖的唯一地点
07:58
And if we look at an image图片 of Smithfield史密斯菲尔德 in 1830
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如果你想象一下1830年的Smithfield
08:01
you can see that it would have been very difficult to live生活 in a city like this
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你会发现很难在这样一个城市里面生活下去
08:04
and be unaware不知道 of where your food餐饮 came来了 from.
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并且不留意食物的来源
08:06
In fact事实, if you were having Sunday星期日 lunch午餐,
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事实上,当你在星期日吃午饭的时候
08:08
the chances机会 were it was mooing鸣叫 or bleating咩咩 outside your window窗口
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你将很有可能听到窗外的牛羊的叫声
08:10
about three days earlier.
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在三年以前
08:12
So this was obviously明显 an organic有机 city,
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因此,显然他是一个有机城市
08:15
part部分 of an organic有机 cycle周期.
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属于有机循环中的一个部分
08:18
And then 10 years年份 later后来 everything changed.
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但是,10年后,一切都改变了
08:21
This is an image图片 of the Great Western西 in 1840.
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这是大西铁路在1840的照片
08:24
And as you can see, some of the earliest最早 train培养 passengers乘客
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你可以看见,一些早期的铁路乘客们
08:26
were pigs and sheep.
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是猪和羊群
08:28
So all of a sudden突然, these animals动物 are no longer walking步行 into market市场.
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一夕之间,这些动物不再走进市场
08:32
They're being存在 slaughtered屠宰 out of sight视力 and mind心神,
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他们被屠宰了
08:34
somewhere某处 in the countryside农村.
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在乡村的某个地方
08:36
And they're coming未来 into the city by rail.
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然后他们通过铁路来到了城市
08:38
And this changes变化 everything.
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这些改变了一切
08:41
To start开始 off with, it makes品牌 it possible可能
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首先,他第一次
08:43
for the first time to grow增长 cities城市,
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使城市成长变成了可能
08:44
really any size尺寸 and shape形状, in any place地点.
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不论地点、成为什么规模和形状的城市
08:46
Cities城市 used to be constrained受限 by geography地理;
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城市发展过去受到地理的限制
08:50
they used to have to get their food餐饮 through通过 very difficult physical物理 means手段.
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城市需要通过很艰难的方式获得食物
08:53
All of a sudden突然 they are effectively有效 emancipated解放 from geography地理.
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突然,他们从地理限制中解放了出来
08:57
And as you can see from these maps地图 of London伦敦,
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你可以看看伦敦的地图
09:00
in the 90 years年份 after the trains火车 came来了,
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在铁路建成后的90年
09:02
it goes from being存在 a little blobBLOB that was quite相当 easy简单 to feed饲料
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它从容易喂饱的一小点
09:06
by animals动物 coming未来 in on foot脚丫子, and so on,
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通过动物步行到市场等方式
09:08
to a large splurge挥霍,
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成长成为大型的奢侈的大都市
09:10
that would be very, very difficult to feed饲料 with anybody任何人 on foot脚丫子,
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步行运输再也不能喂饱每个人
09:13
either animals动物 or people.
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不论是对人还是对动物
09:16
And of course课程 that was just the beginning开始. After the trains火车 came来了 cars汽车,
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当然,这仅仅是开始。当汽车代替了火车
09:19
and really this marks分数 the end结束 of this process处理.
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这真正标志这个过程的结束
09:23
It's the final最后 emancipation解放 of the city
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这是城市的最终解放
09:25
from any apparent明显的 relationship关系 with nature性质 at all.
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从自然的束缚中完全的解放了
09:28
And this is the kind of city that's devoid没有 of smell,
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这样类型的城市没有了原来城市的味道
09:31
devoid没有 of mess食堂, certainly当然 devoid没有 of people,
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乱糟糟的市容,当然也缺少了人
09:33
because nobody没有人 would have dreamed梦见 of walking步行 in such这样 a landscape景观.
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因为没有人想要在这么大的一块地方步行
09:36
In fact事实, what they did to get food餐饮 was they got in their cars汽车,
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事实上,他们都开小汽车去购买食物了
09:39
drove开车 to a box somewhere某处 on the outskirts郊区,
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开车去郊外的超级市场
09:42
came来了 back with a week's本周 worth价值 of shopping购物,
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买回来一周需要的食物
09:44
and wondered想知道 what on earth地球 to do with it.
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然后考虑到底如何规划这些食品
09:46
And this really is the moment时刻 when our relationship关系,
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这时刻,
09:49
both with food餐饮 and cities城市, changes变化 completely全然.
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食物和城市的关系,完全的改变了
09:52
Here we have food餐饮 -- that used to be the center中央,
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过去买食物是在市中心
09:55
the social社会 core核心 of the city -- at the periphery周边.
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在城市的最核心地带
09:58
It used to be a social社会 event事件, buying购买 and selling销售 food餐饮.
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买卖食物曾经是一种社会性的活动,
10:00
Now it's anonymous匿名.
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现在都是匿名了的
10:02
We used to cook厨师; now we just add water,
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我们原来还需要烹饪,现在我们只需要加水
10:04
or a little bit of an egg if you're making制造 a cake蛋糕 or something.
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或者是一些鸡蛋,当我们在做蛋糕或者其他东西的时候
10:09
We don't smell food餐饮 to see if it's okay to eat.
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我们不会在去闻闻食物来确认它是否可以吃了
10:13
We just read the back of a label标签 on a packet.
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我们只是阅读包装袋上的使用说明就好
10:16
And we don't value food餐饮. We don't trust相信 it.
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我们没有发现食物的价值,我们也不信赖它
10:19
So instead代替 of trusting信任的 it, we fear恐惧 it.
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我们甚至担心它
10:21
And instead代替 of valuing价值评估 it, we throw it away.
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从体会它的价值变成浪费
10:25
One of the great ironies讽刺 of modern现代 food餐饮 systems系统
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当今食品工业最最讽刺的是
10:28
is that they've他们已经 made制作 the very thing they promised许诺
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他们让生活极致地便利
10:30
to make easier更轻松 much harder更难.
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却也使得一切更为复杂
10:32
By making制造 it possible可能 to build建立 cities城市 anywhere随地 and any place地点,
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因为可以自由的建立新城市
10:36
they've他们已经 actually其实 distanced疏远 us from our most important重要 relationship关系,
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但是他们却疏远了人可贵的联系
10:40
which哪一个 is that of us and nature性质.
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也就是人与自然的联系
10:43
And also they've他们已经 made制作 us dependent依赖的 on systems系统 that only they can deliver交付,
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同时,他们也让我们依赖这个系统
10:46
that, as we've我们已经 seen看到, are unsustainable不可持续的.
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这个系统,在我们看来,是不可持续的
10:48
So what are we going to do about that?
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所以,我们应该做点什么呢?
10:51
It's not a new question.
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这不是一个新的问题
10:53
500 years年份 ago it's what Thomas托马斯 More was asking himself他自己.
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500年前,汤马斯摩尔曾经问过自己
10:57
This is the frontispiece卷首 of his book "Utopia乌托邦."
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这是他的书《乌托邦》的主旨
11:00
And it was a series系列 of semi-independent半独立 city-states城邦,
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它是一个半独立的城邦
11:03
if that sounds声音 remotely远程 familiar,
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如果这么说听上去还比较熟悉的话
11:05
a day's walk步行 from one another另一个 where everyone大家 was basically基本上 farming-mad养殖狂,
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一天的行走你会看见所有人农场都在疯狂的种植
11:08
and grew成长 vegetables蔬菜 in their back gardens花园,
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或者在自己的后院种植蔬菜
11:10
and ate communal公社 meals together一起, and so on.
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然后一起享用乡镇的共有食物,等等
11:12
And I think you could argue争论 that
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我认为你可能想要说
11:14
food餐饮 is a fundamental基本的 ordering排序 principle原理 of Utopia乌托邦,
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食物是乌托邦维持秩序的基础
11:17
even though虽然 More never framed陷害 it that way.
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尽管摩尔从来没有这么构想
11:20
And here is another另一个 very famous著名 "Utopian乌托邦" vision视力,
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这里有一个很著名的乌托邦蓝图
11:23
that of Ebenezer埃比尼泽 Howard霍华德, "The Garden花园 City."
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来自埃比尼泽·霍华德的“花园城市”
11:25
Same相同 idea理念: series系列 of semi-independent半独立 city-states城邦,
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同样的想法。一系列半独立的城邦
11:28
little blobs斑点 of metropolitan宗主 stuff东东 with arable可耕的 land土地 around,
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小型都市被可耕地包围
11:32
joined加盟 to one another另一个 by railway铁路.
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相互之间通过铁路连接
11:34
And again, food餐饮 could be said to be
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当然,食物在一次被称作
11:36
the ordering排序 principle原理 of his vision视力.
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维持秩序的物体,在他的版本中
11:39
It even got built内置, but nothing to do with
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这些田园都市是有的,但与当初
11:41
this vision视力 that Howard霍华德 had.
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霍华的愿景没有关系
11:43
And that is the problem问题 with these Utopian乌托邦 ideas思路,
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这也与乌托邦的构想产生了冲突
11:46
that they are Utopian乌托邦.
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因为他们是乌托邦(不存在的)
11:48
Utopia乌托邦 was actually其实 a word that Thomas托马斯 Moore穆尔 used deliberately故意.
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乌托邦实际是上一个托马斯摩尔故意使用的一个词
11:51
It was a kind of joke玩笑, because it's got a double derivation求导 from the Greek希腊语.
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这似乎是一个笑话。因为它在希腊中有两个来历
11:55
It can either mean a good place地点, or no place地点.
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他既可以表示一个好的地方,也可以表示一个不存在的地方
11:57
Because it's an ideal理想. It's an imaginary假想 thing. We can't have it.
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因为他是一种理想。一个想象中的事物。我们不能拥有它
12:01
And I think, as a conceptual概念上的 tool工具
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我认为,这是一个观念
12:03
for thinking思维 about the very deep problem问题 of human人的 dwelling住宅,
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用来深层次的思考人类居住的问题
12:06
that makes品牌 it not much use.
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它不是很有用
12:08
So I've come up with an alternative替代,
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所以我提出另一个概念
12:11
which哪一个 is SitopiaSitopia, from the ancient Greek希腊语,
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“希托邦”,在古希腊文中
12:14
"sitossitos" for food餐饮, and "toposTOPOS" for place地点.
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“希托”代表食物,“邦”是地方
12:16
I believe we already已经 live生活 in SitopiaSitopia.
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我相信我们已经住在“希托邦”里面
12:18
We live生活 in a world世界 shaped成形 by food餐饮,
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这个世界是受食物影响的
12:21
and if we realize实现 that, we can use food餐饮 as a really powerful强大 tool工具 --
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只要认清楚这个事实,食物便能成为有力的工具
12:24
a conceptual概念上的 tool工具, design设计 tool工具, to shape形状 the world世界 differently不同.
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一个概念性的工具,设计工具,用来改变这个世界
12:28
So if we were to do that, what might威力 SitopiaSitopia look like?
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如果这样做,希托邦会成什么样
12:33
Well I think it looks容貌 a bit like this.
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我是这样想的
12:35
I have to use this slide滑动. It's just the look on the face面对 of the dog.
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我用投影这张照片,是因为这狗长相可爱
12:37
But anyway无论如何, this is -- (Laughter笑声)
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无论如何,在这里(笑)
12:40
it's food餐饮 at the center中央 of life,
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食物是生活的重心
12:42
at the center中央 of family家庭 life, being存在 celebrated著名,
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是家庭生活的重心,被赞颂
12:44
being存在 enjoyed享受, people taking服用 time for it.
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被享用,你们花时间在这上面
12:46
This is where food餐饮 should be in our society社会.
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这是食物在我们社会里应有的地位
12:49
But you can't have scenes场景 like this unless除非 you have people like this.
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但想做到这样,得先有这些人
12:54
By the way, these can be men男人 as well.
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他也可以是男的
12:56
It's people who think about food餐饮,
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这些人是会想到食物的
12:59
who think ahead, who plan计划,
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他们会预先思考,做计划
13:01
who can stare at a pile of raw生的 vegetables蔬菜
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看到一堆生菜时
13:03
and actually其实 recognize认识 them.
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知道那是什么
13:05
We need these people. We're part部分 of a network网络.
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我们需要这种人。我们都是整体的一部分
13:08
Because without these kinds of people we can't have places地方 like this.
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因为如果没有这样的人,就不会有这样的地方
13:11
Here, I deliberately故意 chose选择 this because it is a man buying购买 a vegetable蔬菜.
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我故意选了这个因为这张照片显示一个人在买蔬菜
13:14
But networks网络, markets市场 where food餐饮 is being存在 grown长大的 locally本地.
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但是整体联络,食物是当地生产的
13:18
It's common共同. It's fresh新鲜.
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他是大面积的,也是新鲜的
13:20
It's part部分 of the social社会 life of the city.
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这是城市社会生活的一部分
13:22
Because without that, you can't have this kind of place地点,
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因为没有它,你就不会拥有这样的地方
13:25
food餐饮 that is grown长大的 locally本地 and also is part部分 of the landscape景观,
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种植食物的地方也是风景的一部分
13:28
and is not just a zero-sum零和 commodity商品
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他不仅仅是一个消费商品
13:30
off in some unseen看不见 hell-hole地狱洞.
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来自看不见的黑暗角落
13:32
Cows奶牛 with a view视图.
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成片的牛群
13:34
Steaming piles of humus腐殖质.
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冒着水汽的肥沃土壤
13:36
This is basically基本上 bringing使 the whole整个 thing together一起.
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这才使一切变得完整
13:39
And this is a community社区 project项目
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这是一个集体的计划
13:41
I visited参观 recently最近 in Toronto多伦多.
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我最近去了多伦多
13:43
It's a greenhouse温室, where kids孩子 get told
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在这个温室里,孩子学习
13:45
all about food餐饮 and growing生长 their own拥有 food餐饮.
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关于食物的知识,以及他们种植自己所需的食物
13:48
Here is a plant called Kevin凯文, or maybe it's a
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这有一颗菜叫做凯文,他也许
13:51
plant belonging属于 to a kid孩子 called Kevin凯文. I don't know.
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属于一个叫凯文的小孩子。我不太确定
13:53
But anyway无论如何, these kinds of projects项目
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但是不管怎么说,这类计划
13:56
that are trying to reconnect重新连接 us with nature性质 is extremely非常 important重要.
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是及其重要的,因为他们试图重新建立我们和自然的联系
14:00
So SitopiaSitopia, for me, is really a way of seeing眼看.
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因此,希托邦,是另一种观点
14:02
It's basically基本上 recognizing认识 that SitopiaSitopia
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基本上,我们认可在某些小地方
14:06
already已经 exists存在 in little pockets口袋 everywhere到处.
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希托邦已经存在了
14:08
The trick is to join加入 them up,
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下一步就是将他们连接起来
14:10
to use food餐饮 as a way of seeing眼看.
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从食物的角度看
14:13
And if we do that, we're going to stop seeing眼看 cities城市
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如果我们这样做了,城市将不再是
14:16
as big, metropolitan宗主, unproductive非生产性 blobs斑点, like this.
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一个不从事生产的大都市,像现在一样
14:19
We're going to see them more like this,
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我们将把城市
14:21
as part部分 of the productive生产的, organic有机 framework骨架
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作为一个有机生产的一部分
14:24
of which哪一个 they are inevitably必将 a part部分,
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在这种架构下,城乡之间
14:26
symbiotically共生 connected连接的.
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以一种共生的方式连接
14:28
But of course课程, that's not a great image图片 either,
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但这也不是什么大理论
14:30
because we need not to be producing生产 food餐饮 like this anymore.
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因为我们不需要这样的食物产出方式了
14:33
We need to be thinking思维 more about permaculture永续农业,
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我们需要更多的思考关于社区生态农业
14:35
which哪一个 is why I think this image图片 just
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所以这张图
14:37
sums总和 up for me the kind of thinking思维 we need to be doing.
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很合适来做一个结论
14:39
It's a re-conceptualization重新概念化
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我们需要重新思考
14:41
of the way food餐饮 shapes形状 our lives生活.
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食物如何塑造我们的生活
14:44
The best最好 image图片 I know of this is from 650 years年份 ago.
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我知道的最好的方式是这张650年前的画
14:47
It's Ambrogio安布罗 Lorenzetti's洛伦泽蒂的 "Allegory寓言 of Good Government政府."
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他是 Ambrogio Lorenzetti 提出的“优秀政府的寓言”
14:50
It's about the relationship关系 between之间 the city and the countryside农村.
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他勾画出城市和乡村的关系
14:53
And I think the message信息 of this is very clear明确.
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我认为他想传达的思想非常清晰
14:56
If the city looks容貌 after the country国家,
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如果城市照顾好乡村
14:58
the country国家 will look after the city.
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乡村就会帮助城市
15:00
And I want us to ask now,
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我希望大家都想一想
15:02
what would Ambrogio安布罗 Lorenzetti洛伦泽蒂 paint涂料
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如果Ambrigio Lorenzetti在今天再画一张
15:05
if he painted this image图片 today今天?
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他会画出怎样的图画
15:07
What would an allegory寓言 of good government政府 look like today今天?
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现代版“优秀政府的寓言”会是什么样子
15:10
Because I think it's an urgent紧急 question.
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因为我认为这是一个紧要的问题
15:12
It's one we have to ask,
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一个我们必须提出的问题
15:14
and we have to start开始 answering回答.
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一个我们需要马上做答的问题
15:16
We know we are what we eat.
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我们知道我们吃的东西很大程度上决定了我们身体状况
15:19
We need to realize实现 that the world世界 is also what we eat.
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所以,我们也了解我们的食物决定了世界的状况
15:21
But if we take that idea理念, we can use food餐饮
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如果我们采纳这个想法,我们可以利用食物
15:23
as a really powerful强大 tool工具 to shape形状 the world世界 better.
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作为一个强有力的工具来重新塑造世界
15:27
Thank you very much.
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非常感谢
15:29
(Applause掌声)
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(掌声)
Translated by Aileen Huang
Reviewed by Jenny Yang

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ABOUT THE SPEAKER
Carolyn Steel - Food urbanist
Food is a shared necessity -- but also a shared way of thinking, argues Carolyn Steel. Looking at food networks offers an unusual and illuminating way to explore how cities evolved.

Why you should listen

The question of how to feed cities may be one of the biggest contemporary questions, yet it's never asked: we take for granted that if we walk into a store or a restaurant, food will be there, magically coming from somewhere. Yet, think of it this way: just in London, every single day, 30 million meals must be provided. Without a reliable food supply, even the most modern city would collapse quickly. And most people today eat food of whose provenance they are unaware.

Architect and author Carolyn Steel uses food as a medium to "read" cities and understand how they work. In her book Hungry City she traces -- and puts into historical context -- food's journey from land to urban table and thence to sewer. Cities, like people, are what they eat.

More profile about the speaker
Carolyn Steel | Speaker | TED.com