ABOUT THE SPEAKER
Carolyn Steel - Food urbanist
Food is a shared necessity -- but also a shared way of thinking, argues Carolyn Steel. Looking at food networks offers an unusual and illuminating way to explore how cities evolved.

Why you should listen

The question of how to feed cities may be one of the biggest contemporary questions, yet it's never asked: we take for granted that if we walk into a store or a restaurant, food will be there, magically coming from somewhere. Yet, think of it this way: just in London, every single day, 30 million meals must be provided. Without a reliable food supply, even the most modern city would collapse quickly. And most people today eat food of whose provenance they are unaware.

Architect and author Carolyn Steel uses food as a medium to "read" cities and understand how they work. In her book Hungry City she traces -- and puts into historical context -- food's journey from land to urban table and thence to sewer. Cities, like people, are what they eat.

More profile about the speaker
Carolyn Steel | Speaker | TED.com
TEDGlobal 2009

Carolyn Steel: How food shapes our cities

卡洛琳.史提爾:食物如何影響城市的發展

Filmed:
1,235,739 views

每一天,像倫敦一樣大小的城市要消耗三千萬份餐點。然而,這麽多的食物從哪來?建築師卡洛琳.史提爾將討論這個日復一日的奇跡,並展示古代的食物運輸如何影響一個城市的發展
- Food urbanist
Food is a shared necessity -- but also a shared way of thinking, argues Carolyn Steel. Looking at food networks offers an unusual and illuminating way to explore how cities evolved. Full bio

Double-click the English transcript below to play the video.

00:12
How do you feed飼料 a city?
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如何餵飽一個城市的所有居民?
00:16
It's one of the great questions問題 of our time.
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這是現代一個大問題。
00:18
Yet然而 it's one that's rarely很少 asked.
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但很少被提起
00:20
We take it for granted理所當然 that if we go into a shop
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就是很自然地, 當我們去商店
00:23
or restaurant餐廳, or indeed確實 into this theater's戲劇的 foyer門廳 in about an hour's小時 time,
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餐廳,或一小時以後到戲院大廳
00:27
there is going to be food餐飲 there waiting等候 for us,
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總有食物等待著我們
00:30
having magically神奇 come from somewhere某處.
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神奇地出現
00:32
But when you think that every一切 day for a city the size尺寸 of London倫敦,
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試想像倫敦這麽大的城市每天
00:37
enough足夠 food餐飲 has to be produced生成,
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要有足夠的食物被製造
00:40
transported, bought and sold出售,
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運輸、買、賣
00:43
cooked, eaten吃過, disposed處置 of,
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煮、吃、處置
00:47
and that something similar類似 has to happen發生 every一切 day
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同樣的事,日復一日
00:49
for every一切 city on earth地球,
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發生在每個城市裏
00:51
it's remarkable卓越 that cities城市 get fed美聯儲 at all.
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餵飽一座城市是相當不容易的
00:54
We live生活 in places地方 like this as if
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對住在城市的我們
00:56
they're the most natural自然 things in the world世界,
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卻是稀鬆平常
00:59
forgetting遺忘 that because we're animals動物
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忘了我們也是動物
01:01
and that we need to eat,
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我們也需要進食
01:03
we're actually其實 as dependent依賴的 on the natural自然 world世界
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我們還是依賴大自然而生
01:07
as our ancient ancestors祖先 were.
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就跟我們老祖宗一樣
01:09
And as more of us move移動 into cities城市,
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隨著更多人遷入城市
01:11
more of that natural自然 world世界 is being存在
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越來越多原始的大自然
01:14
transformed改造 into extraordinary非凡 landscapes景觀 like the one behind背後 me --
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被開發成這樣壯觀的景色
01:17
it's soybean黃豆 fields領域 in Mato馬托格羅索 Grosso格羅索 in Brazil巴西 --
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這是在巴西馬托格羅索的大豆田
01:20
in order訂購 to feed飼料 us.
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就為了餵飽我們
01:23
These are extraordinary非凡 landscapes景觀,
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這是十分壯觀的景色
01:25
but few少數 of us ever get to see them.
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但少有人見識過
01:27
And increasingly日益 these landscapes景觀
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越來越廣大的田
01:29
are not just feeding饋送 us either.
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卻不只用來餵飽我們
01:31
As more of us move移動 into cities城市,
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住城市的人越多
01:33
more of us are eating meat,
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吃肉的人也越多
01:35
so that a third第三 of the annual全年 grain糧食 crop作物 globally全球
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每年全球的農作物有三分之一
01:38
now gets得到 fed美聯儲 to animals動物
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是拿去餵家畜
01:40
rather than to us human人的 animals動物.
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而不是直接給人吃
01:42
And given特定 that it takes three times as much grain糧食 --
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我們需要三倍的穀物
01:46
actually其實 ten times as much grain糧食 --
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事實上是十倍的穀物
01:48
to feed飼料 a human人的 if it's passed通過 through通過 an animal動物 first,
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如果用家畜來餵飽人類的話
01:51
that's not a very efficient高效 way of feeding饋送 us.
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這是沒有效率的
01:56
And it's an escalating不斷升級 problem問題 too.
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而且是個日趨嚴峻的問題
01:58
By 2050, it's estimated預計 that twice兩次 the number
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到2050年住在城市的人
02:01
of us are going to be living活的 in cities城市.
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將是現在的兩倍
02:03
And it's also estimated預計 that there is going to be twice兩次 as much
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我們消費的肉與乳製品
02:05
meat and dairy乳製品 consumed消費.
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估計也會變兩倍
02:07
So meat and urbanism城市化 are rising升起 hand in hand.
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都市化和肉的消費量是共同增長的
02:12
And that's going to pose提出 an enormous巨大 problem問題.
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這將是個龐雜的問題
02:14
Six billion十億 hungry飢餓 carnivores食肉動物 to feed飼料,
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要餵飽六十億個肉食性動物
02:17
by 2050.
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到2050年。
02:21
That's a big problem問題. And actually其實 if we carry攜帶 on as we are,
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這是個大問題。如果我們不做改變
02:23
it's a problem問題 we're very unlikely不會 to be able能夠 to solve解決.
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這個問題將會是無解
02:26
Nineteen十九 million百萬 hectares公頃 of rainforest雨林 are lost丟失 every一切 year
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每年有一千九百萬公頃的熱帶雨林消失
02:30
to create創建 new arable可耕的 land土地.
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被開發成農地
02:32
Although雖然 at the same相同 time we're losing失去 an equivalent當量 amount
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同時我們也失去同樣面積的可耕地
02:35
of existing現有 arables阿拉布爾 to salinization鹽化 and erosion侵蝕.
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因爲土地的鹽化和水土流失
02:39
We're very hungry飢餓 for fossil化石 fuels燃料 too.
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再加上對石化燃料的索求無度
02:42
It takes about 10 calories卡路里 to produce生產 every一切 calorie卡路里
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在西方每製造一卡路里的食物
02:45
of food餐飲 that we consume消耗 in the West西.
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要耗去十卡路里的能量
02:49
And even though雖然 there is food餐飲 that we are producing生產 at great cost成本,
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雖然付出高昂的代價
02:53
we don't actually其實 value it.
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我們卻不珍惜
02:55
Half the food餐飲 produced生成 in the USA美國 is currently目前 thrown拋出 away.
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半數在美國生產的食品是會被丟掉的
02:59
And to end結束 all of this, at the end結束 of this long process處理,
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甚至,在這一長串過程的最後
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we're not even managing管理的 to feed飼料 the planet行星 properly正確.
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我們也無法適當的分配食物
03:05
A billion十億 of us are obese肥胖, while a further進一步 billion十億 starve餓死.
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在地球上有十億人過胖,卻也有十億人吃不飽
03:10
None沒有 of it makes品牌 very much sense.
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這一切都很不合理
03:12
And when you think that 80 percent百分 of global全球 trade貿易 in food餐飲 now
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試想全球百分之八十的食物交易
03:15
is controlled受控 by just five multinational跨國 corporations公司,
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只掌握在五大跨國公司的手上時
03:20
it's a grim嚴峻 picture圖片.
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這是可怕的情景
03:22
As we're moving移動 into cities城市, the world世界 is also embracing擁抱 a Western西 diet飲食.
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當人們搬到城市住時,大家也接受了西方的飲食習慣
03:25
And if we look to the future未來,
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如果我們想一想未來
03:28
it's an unsustainable不可持續的 diet飲食.
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這絕不是長久之計
03:30
So how did we get here?
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那麽,我們是如何走到這一步的?
03:32
And more importantly重要的, what are we going to do about it?
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而更重要的是,下一步該怎麽走?
03:35
Well, to answer回答 the slightly easier更輕鬆 question first,
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第一個問題稍微容易一些
03:39
about 10,000 years年份 ago, I would say,
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大概一萬年前,我想
03:41
is the beginning開始 of this process處理
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是這個演變的開始
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in the ancient Near East,
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在古老的近東
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known已知 as the Fertile Crescent新月.
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又稱作“新月沃土”的地區
03:47
Because, as you can see, it was crescent新月 shaped成形.
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你可以看這像一輪新月的形狀
03:49
And it was also fertile.
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這地區的土壤肥沃
03:51
And it was here, about 10,000 years年份 ago,
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大約在一萬年前,在這裡
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that two extraordinary非凡 inventions發明,
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有兩項非凡的發明
03:56
agriculture農業 and urbanism城市化, happened發生
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農業以及城市的產生
03:59
roughly大致 in the same相同 place地點 and at the same相同 time.
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大約在同一地點同一時間
04:02
This is no accident事故,
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這並非偶然
04:04
because agriculture農業 and cities城市 are bound together一起. They need each other.
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因爲城市和農業是分不開的。他們互相需要
04:08
Because it was discovery發現 of grain糧食
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這起因於我們的祖先
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by our ancient ancestors祖先 for the first time
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第一次認識到穀物
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that produced生成 a food餐飲 source資源 that was large enough足夠
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可以產生足量又供給穩定的食物
04:16
and stable穩定 enough足夠 to support支持 permanent常駐 settlements定居點.
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去支撐一個永久聚落
04:20
And if we look at what those settlements定居點 were like,
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我們看看一些當時的聚落
04:22
we see they were compact緊湊.
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他們的結構是緊密的
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They were surrounded包圍 by productive生產的 farm農場 land土地
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他們的周圍有農田
04:26
and dominated佔主導地位 by large temple寺廟 complexes複合
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並以一大型神殿為中心
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like this one at Ur烏爾,
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例如這一個在烏爾的神殿
04:31
that were, in fact事實, effectively有效,
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在當時
04:33
spiritualized精神化, central中央 food餐飲 distribution分配 centers中心.
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是神聖化的中央食物分配中心
04:36
Because it was the temples寺廟 that organized有組織的 the harvest收成,
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因爲是神殿安排農作收割
04:39
gathered雲集 in the grain糧食, offered提供 it to the gods,
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收集穀物獻給諸神
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and then offered提供 the grain糧食 that the gods didn't eat back to the people.
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再把諸神沒吃的穀物發還給人們
04:45
So, if you like,
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你可以這麽說
04:47
the whole整個 spiritual精神 and physical物理 life of these cities城市
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這些城市的精神及實體生活
04:49
was dominated佔主導地位 by the grain糧食 and the harvest收成
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是由他們賴以爲生的穀物和收成
04:52
that sustained持續 them.
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所支配
04:55
And in fact事實, that's true真正 of every一切 ancient city.
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事實上,這對每一個古代的城市而言皆如此
04:58
But of course課程 not all of them were that small.
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當然,不是每一個城市都這麽小
05:00
Famously有名, Rome羅馬 had about a million百萬 citizens公民
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眾所皆知,在西元一世紀時
05:03
by the first century世紀 A.D.
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羅馬就有將近一百萬的居民
05:05
So how did a city like this feed飼料 itself本身?
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像這麽大的城市如何餵飽所有的居民?
05:09
The answer回答 is what I call "ancient food餐飲 miles英里."
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答案就在我所謂的“古代食物道路”
05:12
Basically基本上, Rome羅馬 had access訪問 to the sea,
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基本上,羅馬靠近海
05:15
which哪一個 made製作 it possible可能 for it to import進口 food餐飲 from a very long way away.
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所以食物可以從很遠的地方運來
05:18
This is the only way it was possible可能 to do this in the ancient world世界,
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這在古代非得透過海運才行
05:21
because it was very difficult to transport運輸 food餐飲 over roads道路,
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因為用陸運運輸是很困難的
05:24
which哪一個 were rough.
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路況很差
05:26
And the food餐飲 obviously明顯 went off very quickly很快.
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而且食物很快就壞掉
05:28
So Rome羅馬 effectively有效 waged發動 war戰爭
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所以羅馬有效地攻擊
05:30
on places地方 like Carthage迦太基 and Egypt埃及
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伽太基和埃及
05:33
just to get its paws爪子 on their grain糧食 reserves儲量.
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就爲了取得他們的存糧
05:35
And, in fact事實, you could say that the expansion擴張 of the Empire帝國
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事實上,整個羅馬帝國的擴張
05:38
was really sort分類 of one long, drawn out
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可說是一個長期有計劃的
05:41
militarized軍事化 shopping購物 spree大禮包, really.
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軍事化的瘋狂大採購
05:43
(Laughter笑聲)
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(笑聲)
05:45
In fact事實 -- I love the fact事實, I just have to mention提到 this:
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事實上,我喜歡這個事實,我要指出
05:47
Rome羅馬 in fact事實 used to import進口 oysters生蠔 from London倫敦,
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羅馬還曾經[從英國輸入牡蠣]
05:50
at one stage階段. I think that's extraordinary非凡.
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我覺得這就挺不簡單的
05:52
So Rome羅馬 shaped成形 its hinterland腹地
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可以說羅馬領土的形狀
05:55
through通過 its appetite食慾.
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是由它的食欲來決定
05:57
But the interesting有趣 thing is that the other thing also
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有趣的還有其他的事
05:59
happened發生 in the pre-industrial前工業 world世界.
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也發生在工業化前的世界
06:01
If we look at a map地圖 of London倫敦 in the 17th century世紀,
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我們看這十七世紀的倫敦地圖
06:04
we can see that its grain糧食, which哪一個 is coming未來 in from the Thames泰晤士,
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我們可以看到,穀物是從泰晤士河運入
06:07
along沿 the bottom底部 of this map地圖.
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在這張圖的下方
06:09
So the grain糧食 markets市場 were to the south of the city.
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所以穀物市場都是在市區的南方
06:12
And the roads道路 leading領導 up from them
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這些路從穀物市場直指
06:14
to Cheapside奇普賽德, which哪一個 was the main主要 market市場,
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到區普塞得,在當時是主要的市場
06:16
were also grain糧食 markets市場.
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沿途也都是穀物市場
06:18
And if you look at the name名稱 of one of those streets街道,
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你要是看這些道路的名字
06:20
Bread麵包 Street, you can tell
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麵包街,你可以看出
06:23
what was going on there 300 years年份 ago.
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三百年前人們在這裡做什麽
06:26
And the same相同 of course課程 was true真正 for fish.
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漁獲的運輸也同理可證
06:28
Fish was, of course課程, coming未來 in by river as well. Same相同 thing.
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魚當然是從河裏運來的
06:31
And of course課程 Billingsgate靈斯, famously著名, was London's倫敦 fish market市場,
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比林斯門是過去倫敦有名的魚市場
06:34
operating操作 on-site現場 here until直到 the mid-中-1980s.
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一直到1980年代中期都還在使用
06:38
Which哪一個 is extraordinary非凡, really, when you think about it.
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那真是很不可思議,真的,想像一下
06:40
Everybody每個人 else其他 was wandering飄零 around
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每個路人手裡
06:42
with mobile移動 phones手機 that looked看著 like bricks磚塊
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拿著磚頭大的大哥大
06:44
and sort分類 of smelly fish happening事件 down on the port港口.
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還依稀聞到港口的魚腥味
06:47
This is another另一個 thing about food餐飲 in cities城市:
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這是另一個與城市、食物有關的事實
06:50
Once一旦 its roots into the city are established既定,
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一旦運輸的進城路線被建立
06:53
they very rarely很少 move移動.
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就幾乎不會再改變
06:55
Meat is a very different不同 story故事
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肉類產品則是另外一回事
06:57
because, of course課程, animals動物 could walk步行 into the city.
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因爲,動物們可以自己走進市内
06:59
So much of London's倫敦 meat
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所以倫敦的大部分肉品
07:01
was coming未來 from the northwest西北,
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是從西北方來的
07:03
from Scotland蘇格蘭 and Wales威爾士.
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從蘇格蘭及威爾斯
07:05
So it was coming未來 in, and arriving到達 at the city at the northwest西北,
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最後到達倫敦的西北方
07:08
which哪一個 is why Smithfield史密斯菲爾德,
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那裡是史密斯菲爾德
07:10
London's倫敦 very famous著名 meat market市場, was located位於 up there.
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倫敦著名的肉市場, 便在那裏
07:13
Poultry家禽 was coming未來 in from East Anglia安格利亞 and so on, to the northeast東北.
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家禽類從東安格利亞進入倫敦的東北方
07:17
I feel a bit like a weather天氣 woman女人 doing this. Anyway無論如何,
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講到這裡我覺得好像在作氣象預報....
07:18
and so the birds鳥類 were coming未來 in
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禽鳥類也這樣被運進來
07:22
with their feet protected保護 with little canvas帆布 shoes.
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腳上都套著帆布保護套
07:25
And then when they hit擊中 the eastern end結束
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當牠們抵達區普塞得東邊時
07:27
of Cheapside奇普賽德, that's where they were sold出售,
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就會被賣掉
07:29
which哪一個 is why it's called Poultry家禽.
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所以這個地方就叫做“家禽區”
07:31
And, in fact事實, if you look at the map地圖 of any city
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如果你細看任一城市地圖
07:34
built內置 before the industrial產業 age年齡,
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如果它在工業化前就存在
07:38
you can trace跟踪 food餐飲 coming未來 in to it.
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你就能追溯食物的道路
07:40
You can actually其實 see how it was physically物理 shaped成形 by food餐飲,
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切實地看出城市是如何被食物所改變
07:43
both by reading the names of the streets街道, which哪一個 give you a lot of clues線索.
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看一看街道的名稱,就可以給你很多線索
07:46
Friday星期五 Street, in a previous以前 life,
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星期五街,在以前
07:48
is where you went to buy購買 your fish on a Friday星期五.
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是你在星期五去買魚的地方
07:50
But also you have to imagine想像 it full充分 of food餐飲.
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想像街裏擠滿了食物
07:52
Because the streets街道 and the public上市 spaces空間
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因爲在街上和公共空間
07:55
were the only places地方 where food餐飲 was bought and sold出售.
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是買賣食物唯一的場所
07:58
And if we look at an image圖片 of Smithfield史密斯菲爾德 in 1830
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看看1830年史密斯菲爾德當時的街景
08:01
you can see that it would have been very difficult to live生活 in a city like this
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你可以想見,住在這裡你很難不知道
08:04
and be unaware不知道 of where your food餐飲 came來了 from.
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你的食物從哪裏來
08:06
In fact事實, if you were having Sunday星期日 lunch午餐,
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事實上,當你在吃禮拜日午餐時
08:08
the chances機會 were it was mooing鳴叫 or bleating咩咩 outside your window窗口
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你吃的牛或羊,可能三天前
08:10
about three days earlier.
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還在你的窗外咩咩叫
08:12
So this was obviously明顯 an organic有機 city,
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所以這是一個有機的城市
08:15
part部分 of an organic有機 cycle週期.
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是有機循環的一部分
08:18
And then 10 years年份 later後來 everything changed.
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而十年後一切都改變了
08:21
This is an image圖片 of the Great Western西 in 1840.
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這是1840年大西部鐵路的畫像
08:24
And as you can see, some of the earliest最早 train培養 passengers乘客
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你可以看到,最早的鐵路旅客中
08:26
were pigs and sheep.
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有一些是豬和羊
08:28
So all of a sudden突然, these animals動物 are no longer walking步行 into market市場.
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一夕之間,這些動物不再自己走進市場
08:32
They're being存在 slaughtered屠宰 out of sight視力 and mind心神,
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牠們在眼不見心為淨的情況下被屠宰
08:34
somewhere某處 in the countryside農村.
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在鄉下的某處
08:36
And they're coming未來 into the city by rail.
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再用鐵路運進城市
08:38
And this changes變化 everything.
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這一來一切都改變了
08:41
To start開始 off with, it makes品牌 it possible可能
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這是有史以來第一次
08:43
for the first time to grow增長 cities城市,
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城市可在任何地方
08:44
really any size尺寸 and shape形狀, in any place地點.
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成長到任何大小和形狀
08:46
Cities城市 used to be constrained受限 by geography地理;
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過去城市受限於地理條件
08:50
they used to have to get their food餐飲 through通過 very difficult physical物理 means手段.
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食物必須用艱辛地運送進來
08:53
All of a sudden突然 they are effectively有效 emancipated解放 from geography地理.
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突然間城市從地理限制中大解放
08:57
And as you can see from these maps地圖 of London倫敦,
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你可以從倫敦的地圖上看出
09:00
in the 90 years年份 after the trains火車 came來了,
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在火車通行的九十年後
09:02
it goes from being存在 a little blobBLOB that was quite相當 easy簡單 to feed飼料
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倫敦從一個容易餵飽的小點
09:06
by animals動物 coming未來 in on foot腳丫子, and so on,
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一個靠動物走進來就能餵飽的小點
09:08
to a large splurge揮霍,
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變成一個龐然大物
09:10
that would be very, very difficult to feed飼料 with anybody任何人 on foot腳丫子,
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步行運輸再也不能餵飽每個人
09:13
either animals動物 or people.
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對人對動物都一樣
09:16
And of course課程 that was just the beginning開始. After the trains火車 came來了 cars汽車,
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這只是個開端。火車之後又來了汽車
09:19
and really this marks分數 the end結束 of this process處理.
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這成就了這場變化的終點
09:23
It's the final最後 emancipation解放 of the city
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這是城市最終的解放
09:25
from any apparent明顯的 relationship關係 with nature性質 at all.
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徹底地從大自然的連繫中解放
09:28
And this is the kind of city that's devoid沒有 of smell,
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這些城市的街上聞不到動物的味道
09:31
devoid沒有 of mess食堂, certainly當然 devoid沒有 of people,
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不再紊亂,當然也沒有人跡
09:33
because nobody沒有人 would have dreamed夢見 of walking步行 in such這樣 a landscape景觀.
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因為那已是夢裡都夢不到的風景了
09:36
In fact事實, what they did to get food餐飲 was they got in their cars汽車,
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食物的取得變成開車
09:39
drove開車 to a box somewhere某處 on the outskirts郊區,
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到郊區的大倉儲裏
09:42
came來了 back with a week's本週 worth價值 of shopping購物,
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買回一整個星期的庫存
09:44
and wondered想知道 what on earth地球 to do with it.
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再想這些食材該怎麽處理
09:46
And this really is the moment時刻 when our relationship關係,
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這時候我們跟城市及食物的關係
09:49
both with food餐飲 and cities城市, changes變化 completely全然.
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已完全改變
09:52
Here we have food餐飲 -- that used to be the center中央,
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過去食物是我們生活的中心
09:55
the social社會 core核心 of the city -- at the periphery周邊.
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城市的社交重心 -- 現在則是邊緣化
09:58
It used to be a social社會 event事件, buying購買 and selling銷售 food餐飲.
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買賣食物曾是社交活動的一部分
10:00
Now it's anonymous匿名.
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現在則是隱姓埋名
10:02
We used to cook廚師; now we just add water,
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我們曾要料理食物,現在只需要加水[到調理包]
10:04
or a little bit of an egg if you're making製造 a cake蛋糕 or something.
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或者再打個蛋,如果你要做蛋糕的話
10:09
We don't smell food餐飲 to see if it's okay to eat.
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你不再先聞聞看東西有沒壞掉
10:13
We just read the back of a label標籤 on a packet.
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你只須讀包裝背後的説明
10:16
And we don't value food餐飲. We don't trust相信 it.
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我們不再珍惜食物。也不再信任它
10:19
So instead代替 of trusting信任的 it, we fear恐懼 it.
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從信賴轉變成疑懼
10:21
And instead代替 of valuing價值評估 it, we throw it away.
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從體會它的價值變成浪費
10:25
One of the great ironies諷刺 of modern現代 food餐飲 systems系統
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當今食品工業最最諷刺的是
10:28
is that they've他們已經 made製作 the very thing they promised許諾
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他們讓生活極致地便利
10:30
to make easier更輕鬆 much harder更難.
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卻也使得一切更為複雜
10:32
By making製造 it possible可能 to build建立 cities城市 anywhere隨地 and any place地點,
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因為可以自由地建立新城市
10:36
they've他們已經 actually其實 distanced疏遠 us from our most important重要 relationship關係,
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我們卻切斷了最重要的連繫
10:40
which哪一個 is that of us and nature性質.
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那就是和大自然的連繫
10:43
And also they've他們已經 made製作 us dependent依賴的 on systems系統 that only they can deliver交付,
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最後我們只能依賴他們的供給系統
10:46
that, as we've我們已經 seen看到, are unsustainable不可持續的.
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而我們已經看到,這個系統是不能永久持續的
10:48
So what are we going to do about that?
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所以,我們該怎麽辦呢?
10:51
It's not a new question.
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這不是個新的問題
10:53
500 years年份 ago it's what Thomas托馬斯 More was asking himself他自己.
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五百年前湯瑪士.摩爾就在問他自己
10:57
This is the frontispiece卷首 of his book "Utopia烏托邦."
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這是他的著作“烏托邦”的卷頭插圖
11:00
And it was a series系列 of semi-independent半獨立 city-states城邦,
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裏面是幾個半自給自足的城邦
11:03
if that sounds聲音 remotely遠程 familiar,
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聼起來挺熟悉的
11:05
a day's walk步行 from one another另一個 where everyone大家 was basically基本上 farming-mad養殖狂,
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幾乎每個人都有種田的狂熱
11:08
and grew成長 vegetables蔬菜 in their back gardens花園,
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在自家的後院種蔬菜
11:10
and ate communal公社 meals together一起, and so on.
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並一起享用餐點等等
11:12
And I think you could argue爭論 that
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你可以說
11:14
food餐飲 is a fundamental基本的 ordering排序 principle原理 of Utopia烏托邦,
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食物是烏托邦的根本原則
11:17
even though雖然 More never framed陷害 it that way.
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即便摩爾最初不是這樣設想
11:20
And here is another另一個 very famous著名 "Utopian烏托邦" vision視力,
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另一個著名的烏托邦的願景
11:23
that of Ebenezer埃比尼澤 Howard霍華德, "The Garden花園 City."
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是埃本内則.霍華著的“田園城市”
11:25
Same相同 idea理念: series系列 of semi-independent半獨立 city-states城邦,
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相同的,也是一些半自給自足的城邦
11:28
little blobs斑點 of metropolitan宗主 stuff東東 with arable可耕的 land土地 around,
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一些小型的都會區,周圍有農田圍繞
11:32
joined加盟 to one another另一個 by railway鐵路.
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之間用鐵路連接
11:34
And again, food餐飲 could be said to be
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食物是,再一次地,
11:36
the ordering排序 principle原理 of his vision視力.
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是他建立願景的原則
11:39
It even got built內置, but nothing to do with
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這些田園都市是有的,但與當初
11:41
this vision視力 that Howard霍華德 had.
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霍華的願景沒有關係
11:43
And that is the problem問題 with these Utopian烏托邦 ideas思路,
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這些烏托邦理念的問題就在於
11:46
that they are Utopian烏托邦.
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他們只是烏托邦
11:48
Utopia烏托邦 was actually其實 a word that Thomas托馬斯 Moore穆爾 used deliberately故意.
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“烏托邦”是湯瑪斯.摩爾刻意選用的字
11:51
It was a kind of joke玩笑, because it's got a double derivation求導 from the Greek希臘語.
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半玩笑的。因為希臘語裡它有雙重含義
11:55
It can either mean a good place地點, or no place地點.
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可以指“好地方”或“不存在的地方”
11:57
Because it's an ideal理想. It's an imaginary假想 thing. We can't have it.
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因爲它是理想的,抽象的。我們無法擁有它
12:01
And I think, as a conceptual概念上的 tool工具
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我想這只是個概念
12:03
for thinking思維 about the very deep problem問題 of human人的 dwelling住宅,
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用來思考人類居住的深刻問題
12:06
that makes品牌 it not much use.
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這讓它不太有用
12:08
So I've come up with an alternative替代,
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所以我提出另一個的概念
12:11
which哪一個 is SitopiaSitopia, from the ancient Greek希臘語,
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”希托邦“,在古希臘文中
12:14
"sitossitos" for food餐飲, and "toposTOPOS" for place地點.
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“希托”是代表食物,“邦”是地方
12:16
I believe we already已經 live生活 in SitopiaSitopia.
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我相信我們已經住在“希托邦”裏
12:18
We live生活 in a world世界 shaped成形 by food餐飲,
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這世界是受食物影響的
12:21
and if we realize實現 that, we can use food餐飲 as a really powerful強大 tool工具 --
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只要認清楚這事實,食物便能成爲有力的工具
12:24
a conceptual概念上的 tool工具, design設計 tool工具, to shape形狀 the world世界 differently不同.
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一個概念性的工具,設計工具,來改變這個世界
12:28
So if we were to do that, what might威力 SitopiaSitopia look like?
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如果這樣做,希托邦會長得怎樣?
12:33
Well I think it looks容貌 a bit like this.
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我的看法是這樣
12:35
I have to use this slide滑動. It's just the look on the face面對 of the dog.
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我用這張投影片,因爲這狗的臉很可愛
12:37
But anyway無論如何, this is -- (Laughter笑聲)
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無論如何,在這裡 (笑聲)
12:40
it's food餐飲 at the center中央 of life,
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食物是生活的中心
12:42
at the center中央 of family家庭 life, being存在 celebrated著名,
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在家庭生活的中心,被讚頌
12:44
being存在 enjoyed享受, people taking服用 time for it.
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被享用,人們花時間在這上面
12:46
This is where food餐飲 should be in our society社會.
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這是食物在我們社會裏應有的地位
12:49
But you can't have scenes場景 like this unless除非 you have people like this.
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但想做到這樣,得先有這些人
12:54
By the way, these can be men男人 as well.
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對了,他也可以是男的
12:56
It's people who think about food餐飲,
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這些人是會想到食物的
12:59
who think ahead, who plan計劃,
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他們會預先思考,作計劃
13:01
who can stare at a pile of raw生的 vegetables蔬菜
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看到一堆生菜時
13:03
and actually其實 recognize認識 them.
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知道那是什麽菜
13:05
We need these people. We're part部分 of a network網絡.
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我們需要這些人。我們都是網路的一部分
13:08
Because without these kinds of people we can't have places地方 like this.
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因爲,少了這種人,這個地方將無法存在
13:11
Here, I deliberately故意 chose選擇 this because it is a man buying購買 a vegetable蔬菜.
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我故意選這張是因為這是男人在買菜
13:14
But networks網絡, markets市場 where food餐飲 is being存在 grown長大的 locally本地.
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在這個網路或市場裏,食物是當地生産的
13:18
It's common共同. It's fresh新鮮.
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是普及的,新鮮的
13:20
It's part部分 of the social社會 life of the city.
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是社交生活的一部分
13:22
Because without that, you can't have this kind of place地點,
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沒有了這一部分,這樣的地方就無法存在
13:25
food餐飲 that is grown長大的 locally本地 and also is part部分 of the landscape景觀,
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當地生産的食物也是風景的一部分
13:28
and is not just a zero-sum零和 commodity商品
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而不只是另一個消費商品
13:30
off in some unseen看不見 hell-hole地獄洞.
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來自看不到的黑暗角落
13:32
Cows奶牛 with a view視圖.
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牛在野地放牧
13:34
Steaming piles of humus腐殖質.
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冒著水汽的肥沃土壤
13:36
This is basically基本上 bringing使 the whole整個 thing together一起.
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這才使一切變得完整
13:39
And this is a community社區 project項目
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這是一個社區性的計劃
13:41
I visited參觀 recently最近 in Toronto多倫多.
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我最近去了一趟多倫多
13:43
It's a greenhouse溫室, where kids孩子 get told
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這個溫室裡小朋友學習
13:45
all about food餐飲 and growing生長 their own擁有 food餐飲.
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有關食物,和種菜的一切
13:48
Here is a plant called Kevin凱文, or maybe it's a
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這顆菜名叫凱文,或是
13:51
plant belonging屬於 to a kid孩子 called Kevin凱文. I don't know.
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這是凱文種的菜,我不確定
13:53
But anyway無論如何, these kinds of projects項目
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總而言之,這類計劃
13:56
that are trying to reconnect重新連接 us with nature性質 is extremely非常 important重要.
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使我們和大自然再度連繫,這是非常重要的
14:00
So SitopiaSitopia, for me, is really a way of seeing眼看.
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所以,希托邦,對我是另一種觀點
14:02
It's basically基本上 recognizing認識 that SitopiaSitopia
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基本上,我們認爲希托邦
14:06
already已經 exists存在 in little pockets口袋 everywhere到處.
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已在各地小規模地分散地存在
14:08
The trick is to join加入 them up,
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下一步就是把它們連接起來
14:10
to use food餐飲 as a way of seeing眼看.
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從食物的角度來看
14:13
And if we do that, we're going to stop seeing眼看 cities城市
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如果我們這麽看,城市就不會是
14:16
as big, metropolitan宗主, unproductive非生產性 blobs斑點, like this.
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像這樣一個大而不事生産的區塊
14:19
We're going to see them more like this,
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我們將把城市看成
14:21
as part部分 of the productive生產的, organic有機 framework骨架
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是一個有生産力的有機體的一部分
14:24
of which哪一個 they are inevitably必將 a part部分,
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在這架構下無可避免地
14:26
symbiotically共生 connected連接的.
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自然地連結
14:28
But of course課程, that's not a great image圖片 either,
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這不是什麽大理論
14:30
because we need not to be producing生產 food餐飲 like this anymore.
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因爲我們不需要再這樣生産食物
14:33
We need to be thinking思維 more about permaculture永續農業,
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而應該多想想社區生態農業
14:35
which哪一個 is why I think this image圖片 just
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所以這張圖
14:37
sums總和 up for me the kind of thinking思維 we need to be doing.
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替我們該做的事做個結論
14:39
It's a re-conceptualization重新概念化
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我們需要重新思考
14:41
of the way food餐飲 shapes形狀 our lives生活.
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食物如何改變我們的生活
14:44
The best最好 image圖片 I know of this is from 650 years年份 ago.
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最棒的例子是這張650年前的畫
14:47
It's Ambrogio安布羅 Lorenzetti's洛倫澤蒂的 "Allegory寓言 of Good Government政府."
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安布洛吉歐.羅倫澤提的“良好政府的寓言”
14:50
It's about the relationship關係 between之間 the city and the countryside農村.
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他勾畫出城市和鄉下的關係
14:53
And I think the message信息 of this is very clear明確.
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這裡面的訊息是很清楚的
14:56
If the city looks容貌 after the country國家,
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如果城市細心照顧田園
14:58
the country國家 will look after the city.
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那田園也會回頭來照顧城市
15:00
And I want us to ask now,
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我要大家來想一想
15:02
what would Ambrogio安布羅 Lorenzetti洛倫澤蒂 paint塗料
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安布洛吉歐.羅倫澤提會怎麽畫?
15:05
if he painted this image圖片 today今天?
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他如果在今天畫這張圖
15:07
What would an allegory寓言 of good government政府 look like today今天?
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現代版"良好政府的寓言"會是什麽?
15:10
Because I think it's an urgent緊急 question.
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因為這是個不能等的問題
15:12
It's one we have to ask,
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每個人都必須問自己
15:14
and we have to start開始 answering回答.
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每個人也必須開始回答
15:16
We know we are what we eat.
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我們怎麼吃,就會像什麼
15:19
We need to realize實現 that the world世界 is also what we eat.
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也要知道,我們怎麼吃,這世界就會像什麽
15:21
But if we take that idea理念, we can use food餐飲
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一旦有了這個概念,我們可以藉由食物
15:23
as a really powerful強大 tool工具 to shape形狀 the world世界 better.
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作爲一個十分有力的工具來改善世界
15:27
Thank you very much.
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謝謝大家
15:29
(Applause掌聲)
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(掌聲)
Translated by Wang-Ju Tsai
Reviewed by Po-Chih Tsai

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ABOUT THE SPEAKER
Carolyn Steel - Food urbanist
Food is a shared necessity -- but also a shared way of thinking, argues Carolyn Steel. Looking at food networks offers an unusual and illuminating way to explore how cities evolved.

Why you should listen

The question of how to feed cities may be one of the biggest contemporary questions, yet it's never asked: we take for granted that if we walk into a store or a restaurant, food will be there, magically coming from somewhere. Yet, think of it this way: just in London, every single day, 30 million meals must be provided. Without a reliable food supply, even the most modern city would collapse quickly. And most people today eat food of whose provenance they are unaware.

Architect and author Carolyn Steel uses food as a medium to "read" cities and understand how they work. In her book Hungry City she traces -- and puts into historical context -- food's journey from land to urban table and thence to sewer. Cities, like people, are what they eat.

More profile about the speaker
Carolyn Steel | Speaker | TED.com