ABOUT THE SPEAKER
Malcolm Gladwell - Writer
Detective of fads and emerging subcultures, chronicler of jobs-you-never-knew-existed, Malcolm Gladwell's work is toppling the popular understanding of bias, crime, food, marketing, race, consumers and intelligence.

Why you should listen

Malcolm Gladwell searches for the counterintuitive in what we all take to be the mundane: cookies, sneakers, pasta sauce. A New Yorker staff writer since 1996, he visits obscure laboratories and infomercial set kitchens as often as the hangouts of freelance cool-hunters -- a sort of pop-R&D gumshoe -- and for that has become a star lecturer and bestselling author.

Sparkling with curiosity, undaunted by difficult research (yet an eloquent, accessible writer), his work uncovers truths hidden in strange data. His always-delightful blog tackles topics from serial killers to steroids in sports, while provocative recent work in the New Yorker sheds new light on the Flynn effect -- the decades-spanning rise in I.Q. scores.

Gladwell has written four books. The Tipping Point, which began as a New Yorker piece, applies the principles of epidemiology to crime (and sneaker sales), while Blink examines the unconscious processes that allow the mind to "thin slice" reality -- and make decisions in the blink of an eye. His third book, Outliers, questions the inevitabilities of success and identifies the relation of success to nature versus nurture. The newest work, What the Dog Saw and Other Adventures, is an anthology of his New Yorker contributions. 

He says: "There is more going on beneath the surface than we think, and more going on in little, finite moments of time than we would guess."
 

More profile about the speaker
Malcolm Gladwell | Speaker | TED.com
TED2004

Malcolm Gladwell: Choice, happiness and spaghetti sauce

葛拉威爾談義大利麵醬

Filmed:
8,618,534 views

《引爆趨勢》的作者葛拉威爾分享飲食產業追求完美義大利麵醬的內幕-也同時探討選擇和幸福的本質。
- Writer
Detective of fads and emerging subcultures, chronicler of jobs-you-never-knew-existed, Malcolm Gladwell's work is toppling the popular understanding of bias, crime, food, marketing, race, consumers and intelligence. Full bio

Double-click the English transcript below to play the video.

我想我今天應該是要談我的新書,
00:25
I think I was supposed應該
to talk about my new book,
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00:27
which哪一個 is called "Blink,"
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書名叫《決斷2秒間》,探討的是瞬間判斷和第一印象。
00:29
and it's about snap judgments判斷
and first impressions印象.
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00:32
And it comes out in January一月,
and I hope希望 you all buy購買 it in triplicate一式三份.
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它會明年一月上市,希望大家都各買三本。
00:36
(Laughter笑聲)
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但是當我在想這件事情的時候,
00:38
But I was thinking思維 about this,
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00:39
and I realized實現 that although雖然
my new book makes品牌 me happy快樂,
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我發現雖然我的新書讓我開心、
也會讓我媽開心,
00:44
and I think would make my mother母親 happy快樂,
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00:46
it's not really about happiness幸福.
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這些卻跟快樂無關。
所以,我決定不要談新書,而是跟大家介紹一位
00:49
So I decided決定 instead代替,
I would talk about someone有人
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00:52
who I think has doneDONE as much
to make Americans美國人 happy快樂
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我覺得在這過去二十年來,
比誰都讓美國人快樂的人。
00:56
as perhaps也許 anyone任何人 over the last 20 years年份,
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00:59
a man who is a great
personal個人 hero英雄 of mine:
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這個人是我心目中的英雄。
01:02
someone有人 by the name名稱 of Howard霍華德 Moskowitz莫斯科維茨,
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他的名字是默斯克韋茲。
01:05
who is most famous著名
for reinventing重塑 spaghetti意大利面 sauce.
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他以重新發明義大利麵醬而聞名。
默斯克韋茲大概這麼高、身材圓滾滾、
01:10
Howard's霍華德 about this high, and he's round回合,
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01:14
and he's in his 60s,
and he has big huge巨大 glasses眼鏡
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六十來歲、戴著巨大的眼鏡、
和稀疏的白髮、流露出一種奇妙的活力和朝氣,
01:19
and thinning細化 gray灰色 hair頭髮,
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01:21
and he has a kind of wonderful精彩
exuberance豐富 and vitality活力,
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他養了一隻鸚鵡、熱愛歌劇、
01:25
and he has a parrot鸚鵡,
and he loves the opera歌劇,
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01:28
and he's a great aficionado狂熱愛好者
of medieval中世紀 history歷史.
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也是中世紀歷史的愛好者。
他的職業是心理物理學家。
01:33
And by profession職業, he's a psychophysicist心理物理學家.
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01:35
Now, I should tell you that I have no idea理念
what psychophysics心理物理學 is,
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我應該告訴你們,我完全不知道心理物理學是什麼東西,
雖然我曾經跟一個攻讀
01:40
although雖然 at some point in my life,
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01:42
I dated過時的 a girl女孩 for two years年份
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01:43
who was getting得到
her doctorate博士學位 in psychophysics心理物理學.
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心理物理學博士的女生約會。
01:45
Which哪一個 should tell you something
about that relationship關係.
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這大概透露出那段感情的一些訊息。(笑聲)
01:49
(Laughter笑聲)
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01:51
As far as I know, psychophysics心理物理學
is about measuring測量 things.
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從我所知道的,心理物理學是要測量東西。
01:54
And Howard霍華德 is very interested有興趣
in measuring測量 things.
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而默斯克韋茲對測量東西非常有興趣。
他得到哈佛博士後,
01:57
And he graduated畢業
with his doctorate博士學位 from Harvard哈佛,
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在紐約的White Plains成立了一家小顧問公司。
01:59
and he set up a little consulting諮詢 shop
in White白色 Plains平原, New York紐約.
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他的第一個客戶就是-這是在很多年前,在七零年代初期
02:03
And one of his first clients客戶 was Pepsi百事可樂.
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02:06
This is many許多 years年份 ago,
back in the early 70s.
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-他的第一個客戶就是百事可樂。
百事可樂找了默斯克韋茲,說:
02:10
And Pepsi百事可樂 came來了 to Howard霍華德 and they said,
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"你知道嗎,現在有個新東西叫阿斯巴甜,
02:12
"You know, there's this new
thing called aspartame阿斯巴甜,
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我們想要用來做健怡百事可樂。
02:14
and we would like to make Diet飲食 Pepsi百事可樂.
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02:16
We'd星期三 like you to figure數字 out
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我們希望你可以幫我們研究出,我們應該在每罐健怡百事可樂
02:18
how much aspartame阿斯巴甜 we should put
in each can of Diet飲食 Pepsi百事可樂
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放入多少阿斯巴甜,才會得到最完美的飲料。" 對嗎?
02:22
in order訂購 to have the perfect完善 drink."
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02:24
Now that sounds聲音 like an incredibly令人難以置信
straightforward直截了當 question to answer回答,
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這聽起來應該是個最可以直接回答的問題,
02:28
and that's what Howard霍華德 thought.
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默斯克韋茲也是這麼想。因為百事可樂告訴他,
02:30
Because Pepsi百事可樂 told him,
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"看,我們目前正在考慮界於百分之8和百分之12之間的甜度。
02:31
"We're working加工 with a band
between之間 eight and 12 percent百分.
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百分之8以下的甜度不夠甜、
02:34
Anything below下面 eight percent百分
sweetness甜美 is not sweet enough足夠;
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而百分之12以上的甜度太甜。
02:37
anything above以上 12 percent百分
sweetness甜美 is too sweet.
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02:40
We want to know: what's the sweet
spot between之間 8 and 12?"
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我們想知道,界乎百分之8和12之間的理想甜值是多少?"
02:44
Now, if I gave you this problem問題 to do,
you would all say, it's very simple簡單.
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假如我現在叫你們解決這個問題,你們一定會說:"很簡單啦!"
首先,製造一大批的百事可樂做實驗,
02:48
What we do is you make up
a big experimental試驗 batch批量 of Pepsi百事可樂,
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02:51
at every一切 degree of sweetness甜美 --
eight percent百分, 8.1, 8.2, 8.3,
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製造不同的甜度-百分之8、 8.1、8.2、8.3,
一直到百分之12-讓幾千個人試喝,
02:56
all the way up to 12 --
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02:57
and we try this out
with thousands數千 of people,
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再把數據畫成曲線圖,
03:00
and we plot情節 the results結果 on a curve曲線,
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03:02
and we take the most popular流行
concentration濃度, right?
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然後再取最受歡迎的甜度。對吧?很簡單。
03:05
Really simple簡單.
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03:06
Howard霍華德 does the experiment實驗,
and he gets得到 the data數據 back,
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默斯克韋茲做了實驗,得到數據,再畫成曲線圖,
03:09
and he plots地塊 it on a curve曲線,
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卻突然發現不是一個漂亮的鐘形曲線。
03:10
and all of a sudden突然 he realizes實現
it's not a nice不錯 bell curve曲線.
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03:13
In fact事實, the data數據 doesn't make any sense.
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事實上,從數據上根本看不出個所以然來。
它亂無章法,分佈在各處。
03:15
It's a mess食堂. It's all over the place地點.
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03:17
Now, most people in that business商業,
in the world世界 of testing測試 food餐飲 and such這樣,
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其實,大部分從事那種行業的人、在食品測試之類的世界裡,
03:22
are not dismayed沮喪
when the data數據 comes back a mess食堂.
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得到這種亂無章法的數據都不會感到驚訝。
03:25
They think, "Well, you know,
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他們會想說:"嗯,你知道嘍,要搞清楚大家對可樂的喜好並沒有那麼簡單。"
03:26
figuring盤算 out what people think
about cola's可樂的 not that easy簡單."
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03:29
"You know, maybe we made製作 an error錯誤
somewhere某處 along沿 the way."
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"嗯,也許我們在實驗的過程中哪裡出了錯。"
"嗯,那我們來做個學術性的猜測,"
03:32
"You know, let's just
make an educated博學 guess猜測,"
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03:34
and they simply只是 point
and they go for 10 percent百分,
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然後他們就指向百分之10,就在正中間。
03:37
right in the middle中間.
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03:38
Howard霍華德 is not so easily容易 placated安撫.
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默斯克韋茲可就沒這麼容易說服。
03:40
Howard霍華德 is a man of a certain某些 degree
of intellectual知識分子 standards標準.
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默斯克韋茲是個秉持某程度的智慧標準的人。
03:43
And this was not good enough足夠 for him,
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這種作法無法滿足他,
03:45
and this question bedeviled困擾 him for years年份.
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而這個問題也困惑了他好幾年。
他會徹底的去想究竟哪裡出錯。
03:48
And he would think it through通過
and say, "What was wrong錯誤?
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03:50
Why could we not make sense
of this experiment實驗 with Diet飲食 Pepsi百事可樂?"
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為什麼我們不能令這個健怡百事可樂的實驗有意義?
有一天他坐在 White Plains裡用餐,
03:55
And one day, he was sitting坐在
in a diner餐車 in White白色 Plains平原,
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03:57
about to go trying to dream夢想 up
some work for Nescaf雀巢咖啡é.
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開始嘗試幻想為雀巢咖啡的事情。
突然之間,好像靈光一閃,答案閃入他的腦中。
04:01
And suddenly突然, like a bolt螺栓 of lightning閃電,
the answer回答 came來了 to him.
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那就是當他們分析健怡百事可樂的數據時,
04:04
And that is, that when they analyzed分析
the Diet飲食 Pepsi百事可樂 data數據,
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04:07
they were asking the wrong錯誤 question.
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他們問了一個錯誤的問題。
04:09
They were looking for the perfect完善 Pepsi百事可樂,
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他們在找一個完美的百事可樂,
04:11
and they should have been
looking for the perfect完善 PepsisPepsis.
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而他們應該找多個完美的百事可樂。相信我吧!
04:15
Trust相信 me.
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04:16
This was an enormous巨大 revelation啟示.
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這是一個重大的啟發。
04:18
This was one of the most brilliant輝煌
breakthroughs突破 in all of food餐飲 science科學.
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這是在飲食這門科學中其中一個最聰明的突破。
而默斯克韋茲立即出發
04:22
Howard霍華德 immediately立即 went on the road,
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到世界各地的研討會
04:24
and he would go to conferences會議
around the country國家,
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去演說。他會說:
04:26
and he would stand up and say,
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"你們尋找一個完美的百事可樂是錯的。
04:28
"You had been looking
for the perfect完善 Pepsi百事可樂.
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04:30
You're wrong錯誤.
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04:31
You should be looking
for the perfect完善 PepsisPepsis."
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你們應該尋找多種完美的百事可樂。"
04:34
And people would look at him
blankly面無表情 and say,
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而其他人很茫然的望著他,並說,
"你在說什麼?你瘋了。"
04:37
"What are you talking about? Craziness發狂."
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他們會續說,"好,下一位!"
04:39
And they would say, "Move移動! Next下一個!"
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04:40
Tried試著 to get business商業,
nobody沒有人 would hire聘請 him --
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他嘗試找生意。沒有人聘用他 -- 但他仍然堅持
04:43
he was obsessed痴迷, though雖然,
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他不斷的談及它,再談及它,再談及它。
04:44
and he talked about it
and talked about it.
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04:46
Howard霍華德 loves the Yiddish意第緒語 expression表達
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默斯克韋茲很愛意第緒語的一句表達
"對於一個在辣根的蠕蟲來說,世界只有辣根。"
04:48
"To a worm in horseradish辣根,
the world世界 is horseradish辣根."
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這是他的辣根。 (笑聲) 他對此很堅持。
04:51
This was his horseradish辣根.
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04:52
(Laughter笑聲)
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04:54
He was obsessed痴迷 with it!
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04:56
And finally最後, he had a breakthrough突破.
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最後他有一個突破,弗拉希奇醬菜找他
04:59
Vlasic弗拉西克 Pickles醬菜 came來了 to him,
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05:01
and they said, "Doctor醫生 Moskowitz莫斯科維茨,
we want to make the perfect完善 pickle泡菜."
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他們說,"默斯克韋茲先生 -- 默斯克韋茲博士 --
我們想製造完美的醬菜。" 而他回答說,
05:06
And he said,
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"世上沒有一個完美的醬菜,只有完美的醬菜們。"
05:07
"There is no perfect完善 pickle泡菜;
there are only perfect完善 pickles泡菜."
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他回去跟他們說,"你們不只要改善你們的常規,
05:11
And he came來了 back to them and he said,
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05:12
"You don't just need
to improve提高 your regular定期;
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也需要創造驚喜。"
05:15
you need to create創建 zesty燦爛."
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05:16
And that's where we got zesty燦爛 pickles泡菜.
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這就是我們得到美好的醬菜的方法。
05:19
Then the next下一個 person came來了 to him:
Campbell's坎貝爾 Soup.
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跟著找他的是康寶濃湯。
05:21
And this was even more important重要.
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這個更為重要。事實上
康寶濃湯是令默斯克韋茲成名的。
05:23
In fact事實, Campbell's坎貝爾 Soup
is where Howard霍華德 made製作 his reputation聲譽.
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05:27
Campbell's坎貝爾 made製作 Prego帕戈,
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康寶濃湯生產 Prego,而 Prego 在八零年代初在 Ragu 的競爭中掙扎求存。
05:28
and Prego帕戈, in the early 80s,
was struggling奮鬥的 next下一個 to Rag抹布ù,
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05:32
which哪一個 was the dominant優勢
spaghetti意大利面 sauce of the 70s and 80s.
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Ragu 在七零和八零年代是最主要的義大利麪醬。
現在在這個行業裡 -- 我不知道你對此有多少關心,
05:36
In the industry行業 -- I don't
know whether是否 you care關心 about this,
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或我應花多少時間說明。
05:39
or how much time I have to go into this.
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但,以技術上來說,
05:41
But it was, technically技術上 speaking請講
-- this is an aside在旁邊 --
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Prego 比 Ragu 有更好的蕃茄醬。
05:43
Prego帕戈 is a better tomato番茄 sauce than Rag抹布ù.
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蕃茄膏的品質更好,香料的配搭更出色。
05:45
The quality質量 of the tomato番茄 paste
is much better;
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05:48
the spice香料 mix混合 is far superior優越;
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它更容易黏附在義大利麪。事實上
05:50
it adheres粘附 to the pasta意大利面
in a much more pleasing愉快 way.
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05:52
In fact事實, they would do
the famous著名 bowl test測試
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他們在七零年代用Ragu 和 Prego 做了一個很有名的測試。
05:54
back in the 70s with Rag抹布ù and Prego帕戈.
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05:57
You'd have a plate盤子 of spaghetti意大利面,
and you would pour it on, right?
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如果你有一盤義大利麪,你會把醬倒上去,對嗎?
而 Ragu 會全沉在底下, 而 Prego 則會凝在表層。
06:01
And the Rag抹布ù would all go to the bottom底部,
and the Prego帕戈 would sit on top最佳.
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這就是"黏附性"。
06:05
That's called "adherence附著."
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06:07
And, anyway無論如何, despite儘管 the fact事實
that they were far superior優越 in adherence附著,
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無論如何,儘管事實證明它們的黏附性較優,
蕃茄醬的品質較好,Prego 還是掙扎著。
06:12
and the quality質量 of their tomato番茄 paste,
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06:14
Prego帕戈 was struggling奮鬥的.
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06:16
So they came來了 to Howard霍華德,
and they said, fix固定 us.
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所以他們去與默斯克韋茲見面並說,幫我們調整吧。
06:19
And Howard霍華德 looked看著
at their product產品 line, and he said,
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默斯克韋茲看了他們的生產線後說,
"你們所擁有的是一個已死的蕃茄社會。
06:22
what you have is a dead tomato番茄 society社會.
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這是我將會做的。
06:25
So he said, this is what I want to do.
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他在康寶濃湯的廚房裡
06:28
And he got together一起
with the Campbell's坎貝爾 soup kitchen廚房,
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製造45種不同的義大利麪醬,把它們
06:30
and he made製作 45 varieties品種
of spaghetti意大利面 sauce.
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06:34
And he varied多變 them according根據
to every一切 conceivable可以想像 way
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根據各種可能分辨蕃茄醬的方式分類。
06:37
that you can vary變化 tomato番茄 sauce:
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06:38
by sweetness甜美, by level水平 of garlic大蒜,
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以甜度,蒜的多少,辛辣度,酸度,蕃茄的濃度,
06:40
by tomatoey-nesstomatoey岬,
by tartness鋒利, by sourness壞心眼,
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可見的料的多少 -- 這是我在義大利麪的行業中最喜歡的詞語。 (笑聲)
06:43
by visible可見 solids固體 --
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06:45
my favorite喜愛 term術語
in the spaghetti意大利面 sauce business商業.
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06:48
(Laughter笑聲)
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06:49
Every一切 conceivable可以想像 way
you can vary變化 spaghetti意大利面 sauce,
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用各種可變化的方式來產出不同的蕃茄醬。
06:53
he varied多變 spaghetti意大利面 sauce.
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然後他就帶著全部45種義大利麪醬出發。
06:54
And then he took this whole整個 raft
of 45 spaghetti意大利面 sauces醬汁,
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06:58
and he went on the road.
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他到了紐約,芝加哥,傑克遜維,洛杉磯。
06:59
He went to New York紐約, to Chicago芝加哥,
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他用貨車載人到大禮堂
07:01
he went to Jacksonville傑克遜維爾, to Los洛杉磯 Angeles洛杉磯.
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07:03
And he brought in people
by the truckload整車 into big halls大廳.
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07:07
And he satSAT them down for two hours小時,
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在兩小時裡給他們
07:09
and over the course課程 of that two hours小時,
he gave them ten bowls.
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十碗義大利麪。
07:12
Ten small bowls of pasta意大利面,
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這十碗義大利麪各有不同的醬。
07:13
with a different不同 spaghetti意大利面
sauce on each one.
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當他們每嚐完一碗後,他們都以零至100中給評分。
07:16
And after they ate each bowl,
they had to rate, from 0 to 100,
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評定哪一款義大利麪他們覺得最好。
07:21
how good they thought
the spaghetti意大利面 sauce was.
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經過多個月來的試吃後,
07:24
At the end結束 of that process處理,
after doing it for months個月 and months個月,
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他得到了很多有關美國人
07:27
he had a mountain of data數據
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對義大利麪醬感想的數據。
07:28
about how the American美國 people
feel about spaghetti意大利面 sauce.
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07:32
And then he analyzed分析 the data數據.
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他分析結果。
07:34
Did he look for the most popular流行
variety品種 of spaghetti意大利面 sauce?
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但他有沒有去尋找最熱門的口味呢? 沒有!
07:38
No! Howard霍華德 doesn't believe
that there is such這樣 a thing.
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默斯克韋茲不相信有這樣東西。
相反,他看著數據
07:41
Instead代替, he looked看著
at the data數據, and he said,
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希望把它們組成群組。
07:43
let's see if we can group all these
different不同 data數據 points into clusters集群.
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07:48
Let's see if they congregate集合
around certain某些 ideas思路.
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看看是否可得出某個概念。
07:51
And sure enough足夠, if you sit down,
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當然,如果你坐下來分析所有義大利麪的數據時,
07:54
and you analyze分析 all this data數據
on spaghetti意大利面 sauce,
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07:57
you realize實現 that all Americans美國人
fall秋季 into one of three groups.
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你會發現美國人的口味可分三種。
有些人喜歡醬料樸實,
08:01
There are people
who like their spaghetti意大利面 sauce plain;
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有些人喜歡醬料辛辣,
08:04
there are people
who like their spaghetti意大利面 sauce spicy;
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08:06
and there are people
who like it extra額外 chunky矮胖.
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有些人喜歡醬料特別有咬感。
08:09
And of those three facts事實,
the third第三 one was the most significant重大,
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在這三類中,尤以第三種更為明顯。
08:13
because at the time, in the early 1980s,
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因為在當時,在八零年代初,
若你到超級市場,
08:16
if you went to a supermarket超級市場,
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你無法發現特別爽脆的義大利麪醬。
08:18
you would not find
extra-chunky超矮胖 spaghetti意大利面 sauce.
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08:21
And Prego帕戈 turned轉身 to Howard霍華德, and they said,
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Prego 轉向默斯克韋茲問到,
"你告訴我有三分之一美國人鍾情特別爽脆的義大利麪醬,
08:23
"You're telling告訴 me
that one third第三 of Americans美國人
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08:26
crave渴望 extra-chunky超矮胖 spaghetti意大利面 sauce
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08:29
and yet然而 no one is servicing服務 their needs需求?"
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但沒有人滿足他們的要求?" 他回答說,"是。"
08:32
And he said "Yes!"
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08:33
(Laughter笑聲)
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(笑聲) Prego 回去
08:34
And Prego帕戈 then went back,
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完全把他們的義大利麪醬重新調配,
08:36
and completely全然 reformulated重新
their spaghetti意大利面 sauce,
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製造一系列特別爽脆的醬。這立即而且完全
08:38
and came來了 out with a line of extra額外 chunky矮胖
that immediately立即 and completely全然
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攻佔全國整個義大利麪的工業。
08:42
took over the spaghetti意大利面 sauce
business商業 in this country國家.
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而在之後的十數年裡,他們從這個特別爽脆的醬料中
08:45
And over the next下一個 10 years年份,
they made製作 600 million百萬 dollars美元
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得到六億元的收入。
08:49
off their line of extra-chunky超矮胖 sauces醬汁.
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08:52
Everyone大家 else其他 in the industry行業 looked看著
at Howard霍華德 had doneDONE, and they said,
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而其他所有在這行業的人望著默斯克韋茲的所為全都說,
"我的天呀! 我們全都想錯了。"
08:56
"Oh my god! We've我們已經 been
thinking思維 all wrong錯誤!"
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08:58
And that's when you started開始 to get
seven different不同 kinds of vinegar尖酸刻薄,
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而這就開始了七種不同口味的醋,
十四種不同的芥末,七十一種不同的橄欖油
09:02
and 14 different不同 kinds of mustard芥末,
and 71 different不同 kinds of olive橄欖 oil.
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最終連Ragu 都聘請默斯克韋茲,
09:07
And then eventually終於
even Rag抹布ù hired僱用 Howard霍華德,
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09:10
and Howard霍華德 did the exact精確 same相同 thing
for Rag抹布ù that he did for Prego帕戈.
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而他為Ragu 作了完全相同的事情。
今天,若你到超級市場,非常好的那間,
09:14
And today今天, if you go
to a really good supermarket超級市場,
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你會看到多麼的Ragu
09:16
do you know how many許多 Rag抹布ùs there are?
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你知道他們有多少種? 36 種!
09:18
36!
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09:20
In six varieties品種:
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有六種類別: 乳酪,輕味, 羅布斯托,
09:22
Cheese起司, Light,
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09:25
Robusto的robusto, Rich豐富 & Hearty爽朗,
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濃厚,世界經典,特別爽脆,田園風味 (笑聲)
09:28
Old World世界 Traditional傳統 --
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09:32
Extra-Chunky特矮胖 Garden花園.
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09:34
(Laughter笑聲)
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09:35
That's Howard's霍華德 doing.
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這是默斯克韋茲貢獻的。這是他給美國人的禮物。
09:37
That is Howard's霍華德 gift禮品
to the American美國 people.
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09:39
Now why is that important重要?
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這有什麼重要呢?
09:41
(Laughter笑聲)
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09:43
It is, in fact事實, enormously巨大 important重要.
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事實上它是非常重要。讓我來說明。
09:45
I'll explain說明 to you why.
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09:47
What Howard霍華德 did is he fundamentally從根本上
changed the way the food餐飲 industry行業 thinks
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默斯克韋茲從根本改變飲食業對
如何滿足我們快樂的想法。
09:51
about making製造 you happy快樂.
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09:53
Assumption假設 number one
in the food餐飲 industry行業 used to be
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它們以往首先假設
09:56
that the way to find out
what people want to eat,
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想要找出人類想吃什麼的方法
09:59
what will make people happy快樂,
is to ask them.
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或想知道什麼會令他們高興 -- 是要去詢問他們。
10:02
And for years年份 and years年份 and years年份,
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在很多很多年裡,Ragu 和 Prego會成立
10:04
Rag抹布ù and Prego帕戈 would have focus焦點 groups,
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焦點團體,他們會把顧客集合起來問他們,
10:06
and they would sit you down,
and they would say,
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"你想要什麼的義大利麪醬呀? 告訴我你的需求吧。"
10:08
"What do you want in a spaghetti意大利面 sauce?
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10:10
Tell us what you want
in a spaghetti意大利面 sauce."
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在這二、三十年裡 --
10:12
And for all those years年份 -- 20, 30 years年份 --
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10:15
through通過 all those focus焦點 group sessions會議,
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通過這些焦點團體,
10:17
no one ever said they wanted extra-chunky超矮胖.
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沒有人說他們想要特別爽脆。
10:21
Even though雖然 at least最小 a third第三 of them,
deep in their hearts心中, actually其實 did.
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儘管當中至少有三分之一人從心底裡想要。
(笑聲)
10:25
(Laughter笑聲)
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10:27
People don't know what they want!
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人們不知道他們想要什麼! 對吧?
10:29
As Howard霍華德 loves to say,
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默斯克韋茲喜歡說,"頭腦不知道舌頭的喜好。"
10:31
"The mind心神 knows知道 not
what the tongue wants."
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這是一個謎!
10:33
It's a mystery神秘!
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10:34
(Laughter笑聲)
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1004
而最關鍵的一點是 我們了解自己的慾望和口味時
10:35
And a critically危重 important重要 step
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10:38
in understanding理解
our own擁有 desires慾望 and tastes口味
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才發現無法表達自己內心深處的想法
10:41
is to realize實現 that we cannot不能 always
explain說明 what we want, deep down.
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例如,如果我問在這房間裡的你們,你們想要怎樣的咖啡,
10:46
If I asked all of you, for example,
in this room房間, what you want in a coffee咖啡,
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你會知道你會回答什麼嗎? 每個人都會答,"我要香濃碳燒黑咖啡。"
10:50
you know what you'd say?
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10:51
Every一切 one of you would say,
"I want a dark黑暗, rich豐富, hearty爽朗 roast."
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這是人們經常回答的答案。
10:56
It's what people always say
when you ask them.
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你喜歡哪一種? 香濃碳燒黑咖啡!
10:58
"What do you like?"
"Dark黑暗, rich豐富, hearty爽朗 roast!"
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究竟你們有多少個百分比的人真的喜歡香濃碳燒黑咖啡?
11:01
What percentage百分比 of you actually其實
like a dark黑暗, rich豐富, hearty爽朗 roast?
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11:04
According根據 to Howard霍華德, somewhere某處
between之間 25 and 27 percent百分 of you.
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根據默斯克韋茲,大概介於百分之25 至27。
你們大部份喜歡奶味淡咖啡。
11:08
Most of you like milky乳白色, weak coffee咖啡.
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11:10
(Laughter笑聲)
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11:11
But you will never, ever say
to someone有人 who asks you what you want
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但你們永遠不會向問你這問題的人說出你想要的 --
"我想要奶味淡咖啡。"
11:14
that "I want a milky乳白色, weak coffee咖啡."
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所以這是默斯克韋茲的首要貢獻。
11:17
So that's number one thing
that Howard霍華德 did.
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11:21
Number two thing that Howard霍華德 did
is he made製作 us realize實現 --
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第二件默斯克韋茲讓我們明白的事 --
11:24
it's another另一個 very critical危急 point --
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這是另一個非常關鍵的點子 --
11:26
he made製作 us realize實現 the importance重要性
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他令我們明白他所謂的橫向分割的重要。
11:28
of what he likes喜歡 to call
"horizontal segmentation分割."
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11:32
Why is this critical危急?
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為什麼這是那麼的重要呢? 因為
11:33
Because this is the way the food餐飲 industry行業
thought before Howard霍華德.
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這是飲食業在默斯克韋茲之前的想法。不對嗎?
是他們八零年代初所堅持? 他們對芥末的堅持。
11:37
What were they obsessed痴迷 with
in the early 80s?
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11:39
They were obsessed痴迷 with mustard芥末.
251
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11:41
In particular特定, they were obsessed痴迷
with the story故事 of Grey灰色 PouponPoupon.
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特別是對Grey Poupon 的故事所堅持。 對嗎?
11:44
Used to be, there were two mustards芥末:
French's法國的 and Gulden's古爾登的.
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以往有兩款芥末。法國味和古爾登味。
它們是什麼? 黃色芥末。 它有什麼?
11:48
What were they? Yellow黃色 mustard芥末.
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11:49
What's in it?
255
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黃色芥末種子、薑黃和辣椒粉。 這就是芥末了。
11:50
Yellow黃色 mustard芥末 seeds種子,
turmeric薑黃, and paprika辣椒.
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11:52
That was mustard芥末.
257
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11:53
Grey灰色 PouponPoupon came來了 along沿, with a Dijon第戎.
258
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Grey Poupon 就有第戎。不是嗎?
11:56
Right?
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比較易揮發的啡色芥末種子、一些白酒,
11:57
Much more volatile揮發物 brown棕色 mustard芥末 seed種子,
some white白色 wine紅酒, a nose鼻子 hit擊中,
260
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和比較刺鼻的芳草。它們用作什麼?
12:03
much more delicate精巧 aromatics芳烴.
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12:05
And what do they do?
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他們放在一個細小的玻璃瓶裡,有一個美妙的搪瓷標籤。
12:06
They put it in a little tiny glass玻璃 jar,
with a wonderful精彩 enameled漆包線 label標籤 on it,
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讓它看上去好像是法國製造但實際上是在加州奧克斯納德所製。
12:11
made製作 it look French法國,
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12:12
even though雖然 it's made製作
in Oxnard奧克斯納德, California加州.
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12:14
(Laughter笑聲)
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原本收取1.5元一瓶八盎司的芥末,
12:15
And instead代替 of charging充電 a dollar美元 fifty五十
for the eight-ounce8盎司 bottle瓶子,
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12:19
the way that French's法國的 and Gulden's古爾登的 did,
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因為法國味和古爾登味,他們決定收取四元。
12:21
they decided決定 to charge收費 four dollars美元.
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而他們有那些廣告,對嗎?有一個男子駕駛他的勞斯萊斯,
12:23
And they had those ads廣告.
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12:24
With the guy in the Rolls勞斯萊斯 Royce羅伊斯,
eating the Grey灰色 PouponPoupon.
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而他正吃著他的Grey Poupon。 另一輛勞斯萊斯駛來,
12:27
Another另一個 pulls up, and says,
"Do you have any Grey灰色 PouponPoupon?"
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他便問到,"你有Grey Poupon 嗎?"
整個事件到最後,當他做完這個後,Grey Poupon 起飛!
12:30
And the whole整個 thing, after they did that,
Grey灰色 PouponPoupon takes off!
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它攻佔芥末業!
12:33
Takes over the mustard芥末 business商業!
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而所有人從這得到的教訓是
12:35
And everyone's大家的 take-home帶回家 lesson from that
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12:37
was that the way to make people happy快樂
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要令他人感到高興
12:41
is to give them something
that is more expensive昂貴,
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就要給予他們一些更昂貴,一些令他們渴望的事物。對吧!
12:45
something to aspire立志 to.
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要他們背棄他們現在所想的,
12:47
It's to make them turn their back
on what they think they like now,
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12:51
and reach達到 out for something
higher更高 up the mustard芥末 hierarchy等級制度.
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去追求一些在芥末業裡更高的層次。
12:54
(Laughter笑聲)
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一個更好的芥末。一個更昂貴的芥末。
12:55
A better mustard芥末!
A more expensive昂貴 mustard芥末!
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一個更複雜,更有文化和意義的芥末。
12:58
A mustard芥末 of more sophistication詭辯
and culture文化 and meaning含義.
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默斯克韋茲看著這並說,這是錯的!
13:01
And Howard霍華德 looked看著 to that
and said, "That's wrong錯誤!"
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芥末是不存在等級。
13:04
Mustard芥末 does not exist存在 on a hierarchy等級制度.
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芥末就好像蕃茄醬一樣只有平行面。
13:07
Mustard芥末 exists存在, just like tomato番茄 sauce,
on a horizontal plane平面.
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13:11
There is no good mustard芥末 or bad mustard芥末.
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這裡沒有好的芥末或壞的芥末。
13:14
There is no perfect完善 mustard芥末
or imperfect不完善 mustard芥末.
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這裡沒有完美的芥末或不完美的芥末。
只有不同種類的芥末來迎合不同種類的人。
13:16
There are only different不同 kinds of mustards芥末
that suit適合 different不同 kinds of people.
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他從根本解放我們對味覺的想法。
13:21
He fundamentally從根本上 democratized民主化
the way we think about taste味道.
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就因為這樣 我們欠默斯克韋茲一個深深的感謝。
13:26
And for that, as well, we owe
Howard霍華德 Moskowitz莫斯科維茨 a huge巨大 vote投票 of thanks謝謝.
291
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第三樣默斯克韋茲所做的大概是最重要的。
13:31
Third第三 thing that Howard霍華德 did,
and perhaps也許 the most important重要,
292
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13:34
is Howard霍華德 confronted面對 the notion概念
of the Platonic柏拉圖 dish.
293
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他對抗柏拉圖菜的概念。(笑聲)
13:37
(Laughter笑聲)
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792581
1001
我的意思是
13:38
What do I mean by that?
295
793606
1142
13:39
(Laughter笑聲)
296
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在飲食業界裡有很長時期
13:41
For the longest最長 time in the food餐飲 industry行業,
297
796352
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認為只有一種,完美的一種製作食物的方法
13:43
there was a sense that there was one way,
298
798476
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13:45
a perfect完善 way, to make a dish.
299
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2728
13:49
You go to Chez切斯 PanissePanisse餐廳,
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你去到Chez Panisse, 他們會給你紅尾魚生魚片
13:51
they give you the red-tail紅尾 sashimi生魚片
with roasted pumpkin南瓜 seeds種子
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806309
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配烤南瓜種子在一個什麼的縮版上。
13:56
in a something something reduction減少.
302
811616
1853
他們不會給你五款縮版。對吧!
13:58
They don't give you five options選項
on the reduction減少.
303
813493
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14:00
They don't say, "Do you want
the extra-chunky超矮胖 reduction減少, or ...?"
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他們不會說,你喜歡超爽脆縮版或你喜歡那個 -- 不會!
14:04
No!
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1008
你只能得到那個縮版。為什麼? 因為那個在 Chez Panisse 的廚師
14:05
You just get the reduction減少. Why?
306
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1547
14:07
Because the chef廚師 at Chez切斯 PanissePanisse餐廳
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822221
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對紅尾魚有一份柏拉圖式的概念。
14:08
has a Platonic柏拉圖 notion概念
about red-tail紅尾 sashimi生魚片.
308
823807
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只有這才是紅尾魚的做法
14:11
"This is the way it ought應該 to be."
309
826419
1882
14:13
And she serves供應 it that way
time and time again,
310
828920
4056
而她一次又一次的用這個方式供應。
14:17
and if you quarrel吵架 with her, she will say,
311
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而若果你跟好爭辯,她會說,
"你知道嗎? 你是錯的! 這是這餐廳料理紅尾魚最好的方式。
14:20
"You know what? You're wrong錯誤!
312
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14:22
This is the best最好 way it ought應該 to be
in this restaurant餐廳."
313
837468
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現在這相同的想法亦同樣地激起整個商業飲食業。
14:25
Now that same相同 idea理念 fueled燃料
the commercial廣告 food餐飲 industry行業 as well.
314
840212
3439
他們有一個概念,柏拉圖式的概念,認為蕃茄醬應有的方式。
14:29
They had a Platonic柏拉圖 notion概念
of what tomato番茄 sauce was.
315
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而這個概念怎樣得來? 它原自義大利。
14:32
And where did that come from?
It came來了 from Italy意大利.
316
847535
2441
14:34
Italian意大利 tomato番茄 sauce is what?
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2019
義大利蕃茄醬是怎樣的? 它是混合的, 它是稀的。
14:37
It's blended混合; it's thin.
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852375
1600
蕃茄醬的傳統是稀的。
14:39
The culture文化 of tomato番茄 sauce was thin.
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2309
14:41
When we talked about "authentic真實
tomato番茄 sauce" in the 1970s,
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856864
2977
當我們在一九七零年代談到真實的蕃茄醬時,
14:44
we talked about Italian意大利 tomato番茄 sauce,
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1809
我們會說是義大利蕃茄醬。我們談到最初的Ragus 時,
14:46
we talked about the earliest最早 Rag抹布ùs,
322
861698
1779
它是沒有可見的固體,不是嗎?
14:48
which哪一個 had no visible可見 solids固體, right?
323
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2152
14:50
Which哪一個 were thin, you just put a little bit
324
866000
2117
它是薄薄的一小層
而它會流到義大利麪的底下。
14:52
and it sunk沉沒 down to the bottom底部
of the pasta意大利面.
325
868141
2048
就是這樣。但我們為什麼對此執著呢?
14:55
That's what it was.
326
870213
1192
14:56
And why were we attached to that?
327
871429
1661
因為我們想要令別人開心是
14:57
Because we thought
that what it took to make people happy快樂
328
873114
2738
要供給他們最傳統正宗的蕃茄醬,這是第一點。
15:00
was to provide提供 them with the most
culturally文化 authentic真實 tomato番茄 sauce, A.
329
875876
4594
15:05
And B, we thought that if we gave them
the culturally文化 authentic真實 tomato番茄 sauce,
330
880494
5084
第二點是,你會想如果你給了他們最傳統正宗的蕃茄醬,
他們會很感激。
15:10
then they would embrace擁抱 it.
331
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而這樣會令大部份人高興。
15:11
And that's what would please
the maximum最大值 number of people.
332
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我們有這種想法的原因 -- 換句話說,
15:15
In other words,
333
890288
2286
在烹飪世界裡的人是尋求烹調的大同世界。
15:17
people in the cooking烹飪 world世界
were looking for cooking烹飪 universals共性.
334
892598
3399
他們尋找一個方法去滿足所有人。
15:21
They were looking for one way
to treat對待 all of us.
335
896336
2438
15:23
And it's good reason原因 for them
to be obsessed痴迷
336
898798
2580
他們有很好的理由去堅持這種大同的思維,
15:26
with the idea理念 of universals共性,
337
901402
1382
因為所有科學,從十九世紀至差不多二十世紀,
15:27
because all of science科學,
338
902808
1397
15:29
through通過 the 19th century世紀
and much of the 20th,
339
904229
2249
都堅持著大同這個概念
15:31
was obsessed痴迷 with universals共性.
340
906502
1669
心理學家,醫學家,經濟學家們都有興趣了解
15:32
Psychologists心理學家, medical scientists科學家們,
economists經濟學家
341
908195
3988
15:37
were all interested有興趣
in finding發現 out the rules規則
342
912207
2088
管轄我們行為的法則。
15:39
that govern治理 the way all of us behave表現.
343
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2190
但這個變了,不對嗎?
15:42
But that changed, right?
344
917259
1398
15:43
What is the great revolution革命
in science科學 of the last 10, 15 years年份?
345
918681
3611
在過去十至十五年裡,科學有很大的革命。
這是從尋找大同到了解變異。
15:47
It is the movement運動
from the search搜索 for universals共性
346
922316
3515
15:50
to the understanding理解 of variability變化性.
347
925855
1849
現在在醫學裡我們不一定要知道如何 --
15:53
Now in medical science科學,
we don't want to know, necessarily一定,
348
928339
3637
15:56
just how cancer癌症 works作品,
349
932000
1701
例如癌症是如何產生。我們想知道你的癌症跟我的癌症有何分別。
15:58
we want to know how your cancer癌症
is different不同 from my cancer癌症.
350
933725
3251
16:01
I guess猜測 my cancer癌症 different不同
from your cancer癌症.
351
937000
2747
我想我的癌症跟你的癌症是不同的。
16:04
Genetics遺傳學 has opened打開 the door
to the study研究 of human人的 variability變化性.
352
939771
4088
基因開啟了人類變異學的門。
16:08
What Howard霍華德 Moskowitz莫斯科維茨
was doing was saying,
353
943883
2095
而默斯克韋茲所做的正引證著
16:10
"This same相同 revolution革命 needs需求 to happen發生
in the world世界 of tomato番茄 sauce."
354
946002
4111
蕃茄醬的世界應有這個相同的革命。
16:15
And for that, we owe him
a great vote投票 of thanks謝謝.
355
951000
2572
正因為此,我們欠他一個感激。
我將舉最後一個有關變異的例子,就是 -- 噢,對不起。
16:20
I'll give you one last
illustration插圖 of variability變化性,
356
955201
2842
16:22
and that is -- oh, I'm sorry.
357
958067
1841
16:24
Howard霍華德 not only believed相信 that,
but he took it a second第二 step,
358
959932
3488
默斯克韋茲不相信此,但他行了另一步,
就是當我們追求的普世的食物原則時,
16:28
which哪一個 was to say that when we pursue追求
universal普遍 principles原則 in food餐飲,
359
963444
5152
16:33
we aren't just making製造 an error錯誤;
360
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我們不只是作了一個錯誤。我們其實是對自己作出一個重大的傷害。
16:35
we are actually其實 doing ourselves我們自己
a massive大規模的 disservice幫倒忙.
361
970264
3348
16:38
And the example he used was coffee咖啡.
362
974000
1810
他所用的例子是咖啡。
咖啡是他作了很多功課的事情,是與雀巢咖啡。
16:41
And coffee咖啡 is something he did
a lot of work with, with Nescaf雀巢咖啡é.
363
976223
4045
16:45
If I were to ask all of you to try
and come up with a brand of coffee咖啡 --
364
980746
3498
如果我請求在座的各位想出一個咖啡的品牌
-- 一種咖啡,沖泡咖啡 -- 是令你高興的,
16:49
a type類型 of coffee咖啡, a brew釀造 --
that made製作 all of you happy快樂,
365
984268
3022
然後我要求你為那個咖啡評分,
16:52
and then I asked you to rate that coffee咖啡,
366
987314
1953
在這裡咖啡的平均分數大概應該會是在零至100分中的60分。
16:54
the average平均 score得分了 in this room房間 for coffee咖啡
would be about 60 on a scale規模 of 0 to 100.
367
989291
4057
16:58
If, however然而, you allowed允許 me
to break打破 you into coffee咖啡 clusters集群,
368
993825
3623
如果你容許我把你們分成一小群,
或許三或四個咖啡群,
17:02
maybe three or four coffee咖啡 clusters集群,
369
997472
1785
而我能為每一個群組沖泡一個獨特的咖啡,
17:04
and I could make coffee咖啡 just
for each of those individual個人 clusters集群,
370
999281
4695
17:08
your scores分數 would go from 60 to 75 or 78.
371
1004000
3555
你的評分將由60升至75 至78。
17:12
The difference區別 between之間 coffee咖啡
at 60 and coffee咖啡 at 78
372
1008000
5237
60分的咖啡和78分的咖啡的分別是
那個咖啡能令你抽搐
17:18
is a difference區別 between之間 coffee咖啡
that makes品牌 you winceWINCE,
373
1013261
2715
17:20
and coffee咖啡 that makes品牌 you
deliriously發狂 happy快樂.
374
1016000
3004
和令你極其興奮的分別。
17:24
That is the final最後, and I think
most beautiful美麗 lesson,
375
1019690
3194
我想這是默斯克韋茲最後而且我想是最美妙的教訓。
17:27
of Howard霍華德 Moskowitz莫斯科維茨:
376
1022908
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在容納人類多樣化的同時,
17:29
that in embracing擁抱 the diversity多樣
of human人的 beings眾生,
377
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3709
17:32
we will find a surer更有把握 way
to true真正 happiness幸福.
378
1028000
2365
我們找到一個能令我們真正快樂的可靠方法。
17:35
Thank you.
379
1030769
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謝謝。
17:36
(Applause掌聲)
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1166
Translated by Jeannie Cheng
Reviewed by Grace Tung

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ABOUT THE SPEAKER
Malcolm Gladwell - Writer
Detective of fads and emerging subcultures, chronicler of jobs-you-never-knew-existed, Malcolm Gladwell's work is toppling the popular understanding of bias, crime, food, marketing, race, consumers and intelligence.

Why you should listen

Malcolm Gladwell searches for the counterintuitive in what we all take to be the mundane: cookies, sneakers, pasta sauce. A New Yorker staff writer since 1996, he visits obscure laboratories and infomercial set kitchens as often as the hangouts of freelance cool-hunters -- a sort of pop-R&D gumshoe -- and for that has become a star lecturer and bestselling author.

Sparkling with curiosity, undaunted by difficult research (yet an eloquent, accessible writer), his work uncovers truths hidden in strange data. His always-delightful blog tackles topics from serial killers to steroids in sports, while provocative recent work in the New Yorker sheds new light on the Flynn effect -- the decades-spanning rise in I.Q. scores.

Gladwell has written four books. The Tipping Point, which began as a New Yorker piece, applies the principles of epidemiology to crime (and sneaker sales), while Blink examines the unconscious processes that allow the mind to "thin slice" reality -- and make decisions in the blink of an eye. His third book, Outliers, questions the inevitabilities of success and identifies the relation of success to nature versus nurture. The newest work, What the Dog Saw and Other Adventures, is an anthology of his New Yorker contributions. 

He says: "There is more going on beneath the surface than we think, and more going on in little, finite moments of time than we would guess."
 

More profile about the speaker
Malcolm Gladwell | Speaker | TED.com