ABOUT THE SPEAKER
Iké Udé - Artist
The work of Nigerian-born Iké Udé explores a world of dualities: photographer/performance artist, artist/spectator, African/post-nationalist, mainstream/marginal, individual/everyman and fashion/art.

Why you should listen

Iké Udé's ongoing photographic self-portrait series, "Sartorial Anarchy," showa him dressed in varied costumes across geography and time. As a Nigerian-born, New York–based artist, conversant with the world of fashion and celebrity, Udé gives conceptual aspects of performance and representation a new vitality, melding his own theatrical selves and multiple personae with his art. Udé plays with the ambiguities of the marketplace and art world, particularly in his seminal art, culture and fashion magazine, aRUDE and recently his style blog, theCHIC INDEX.

Udé is the author of Beyond Decorum (MIT Press, 2000), which accompanied a traveling exhibition of his photography, and Style File: The World’s Most Elegantly Dressed (2008), a remarkable volume that profiles 55 arbiters of style, including Isabel and Ruben Toledo, Victoire de Castellane, André Leon Talley, Dita Von Teese, Ute Lemper, Lapo Elkann and many others. His work is in the permanent collections of the Solomon R. Guggenheim Museum, the Smithsonian Museum of Art and in many private collections. The esteemed online auction house, Artsy, ranked him -- along with Rembrandt, van Gogh, Warhol -- among the top 10 "Masters of the Self-Portrait." He has made the coveted Vanity Fair magazine's International Best Dressed List in 2009, 2012 and 2015.

More profile about the speaker
Iké Udé | Speaker | TED.com
TEDGlobal 2017

Iké Udé: The radical beauty of Africa, in portraits

Iké Udé: A beleza radical da África em retratos

Filmed:
258,682 views

Através de sua carreira e trabalhos cheios de cor, Iké Udé encontrou maneiras criativas de rejeitar a galopante representação negativa dos africanos na mídia ocidental. Nesta viagem por seu trabalho, ele compartilha retratos evocativos que misturam vestuário, propostas e posturas de muitas culturas de uma só vez, em tomadas sobre a variada e complexa beleza da África.
- Artist
The work of Nigerian-born Iké Udé explores a world of dualities: photographer/performance artist, artist/spectator, African/post-nationalist, mainstream/marginal, individual/everyman and fashion/art. Full bio

Double-click the English transcript below to play the video.

00:12
In 1996, I was commissioned
by the Guggenheim Museum
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Em 1996, fui encarregado
pelo Museu Guggenheim
00:18
to execute a large body of work
called "Uses of Evidence."
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de executar um grande trabalho
chamado "Uses of Evidence".
00:25
It was a cube --
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Era um cubo...
00:27
a very well large cube, at that.
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um cubo muito grande.
00:30
Each side had a window
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Cada lado tinha uma janela
00:32
in order for the spectators
to view the interior of the structure.
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para que os espectadores
vissem o interior da estrutura.
00:37
The exterior of the structure
was a collage of Africa and Africans
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O exterior da estrutura era uma colagem
de imagens da África e de africanos,
00:44
as portrayed in the Western
media and literature.
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como são representados
na mídia e na literatura ocidental.
00:48
A look through the windows
revealed a sharp contrast:
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Um olhar através dos vidros
revelava um contraste gritante:
00:55
within the cubes are tranquil,
civilized, domestic images
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dentro do cubo há imagens
tranquilas, civilizadas, domésticas
01:01
of African family members, friends
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de membros de famílias africanas, amigos
01:07
and Nigerian professionals,
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e profissionais nigerianos,
01:09
ranging from writers, poets,
fashion designers, etc.
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como escritores, poetas, estilistas, etc.
01:17
The thing is,
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O fato é que
01:19
both the exterior and the interior
images are quite true.
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tanto as imagens interiores
quanto as exteriores são verdadeiras.
01:25
But the images captured by Western media
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Mas as imagens capturadas
pela mídia ocidental
01:31
overwhelmingly depict Africans
as basically primitive at best,
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descrevem os africanos
basicamente como primitivos,
01:39
or barely distinguishable
from the African animals.
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ou praticamente como animais africanos.
01:44
Not much has changed,
I'm afraid, since 1996,
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Quase nada mudou, eu receio, desde 1996,
01:50
when I executed this work.
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quando fiz esse trabalho.
01:56
I began my professional
photography practice in 1994,
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Comecei como fotógrafo
profissional em 1994,
02:01
but my passion and enthusiasm
for photography
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mas minha paixão
e entusiasmo pela fotografia
02:06
goes back to childhood,
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vem desde a infância,
02:10
when my parents arranged
for us to be photographed
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quando meus pais contrataram
um fotógrafo profissional
02:15
by a professional photographer
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para nos fotografar
02:18
on almost a monthly basis.
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praticamente todo mês.
02:21
It was also an opportunity for my siblings
to dress up in our latest gear,
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Era uma oportunidade
para vestirmos as roupas mais novas,
02:28
made by our tailor.
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feitas por nosso alfaiate.
02:30
Later, when I was in boarding school,
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Mais tarde, quando eu estava no internato,
02:33
my friends and I bought Polaroid cameras,
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meus amigos e eu compramos Polaroides,
02:38
and then I began to experiment
with self-portraiture,
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e comecei a experimentar autorretratos,
02:42
or what I would call
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ou o que eu chamaria
02:45
"proto-selfie auto-portraits."
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de "proto-selfie autorretratos".
02:48
(Laughter)
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(Risos)
02:50
"Cover Girl 1994" was my first major work
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"Cover Girl 1994" foi
meu primeiro trabalho importante
02:54
that was critically well received
in the US and Europe
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que foi bem recebido
pela crítica nos EUA e Europa
02:59
and quite instantly became
a part of the school anthologies
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e quase instantaneamente
se tornou parte da antologia
03:06
at universities and colleges.
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em universidades e faculdades.
03:08
With the "Cover Girl" series,
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Com a série "Cover Girl",
03:10
I wanted to reimagine the magazine cover
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eu queria reinventar as capas de revistas
03:14
with imagery totally unexpected,
yet profoundly reasonable.
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com imagens totalmente inesperadas,
ainda que profundamente razoáveis.
03:21
The "Cover Girl" series
proposed a different way
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A série "Cover Girl"
propôs uma forma diferente
03:26
the African can be represented
in a more complex manner.
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de representar os africanos
de maneira mais complexa.
03:33
Like "Cover Girl,"
the "Sartorial Anarchy" series
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Assim como "Cover Girl",
a série "Sartorial Anarchy"
03:38
is made up of self-portraits.
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é composta de autorretratos.
03:42
It is an ongoing body of work,
started in 2010.
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É um conjunto de trabalhos,
ainda em andamento, iniciado em 2010.
03:47
In each image, I married
disparate costumes
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Em cada imagem,
combino trajes discrepantes
03:53
from widely diverse traditions,
countries and time frames.
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de tradições, países
e épocas bastante diversas.
04:00
And in mixing eras, cultures,
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E, ao misturar eras e culturas,
04:04
I was able to bring harmony, as it were,
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consegui trazer harmonia,
de certo modo,
04:08
to their similarly
irreconcilable differences.
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a diferenças irreconciliáveis.
04:12
These differences became a source
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Essas diferenças viraram
uma fonte inspirada
04:16
of inspired artistic celebration.
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de celebração artística.
04:23
For example,
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Por exemplo,
04:26
in "Sartorial Anarchy #4,"
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em "Sartorial Anarchy #4",
04:29
I mixed a boater hat,
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misturei um chapéu de palha,
04:32
inspired by the traditional
Eton-Oxford College Boat Race,
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inspirado pela tradicional
corrida de barcos de Eton-Oxford College,
04:38
with a green Afghan traditional coat
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com um tradicional casaco verde afegão
04:42
and an American Boy Scout shirt --
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e uma camisa de escoteiro norte-americano,
04:46
a culture clash that works.
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um choque cultural que funciona.
04:50
In "Sartorial Anarchy #5,"
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Em "Sartorial Anarchy #5",
04:53
I wore a macaroni wig,
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usei uma peruca "macaroni",
04:56
inspired by eighteenth-century
macaroni headgear from England.
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inspirada pela moda "macaroni"
da Inglaterra do século 18.
05:02
This was paired with
a British Norfolk jacket,
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Ela foi combinada
com uma jaqueta Norfolk inglesa,
05:07
Yoruba Nigerian trousers,
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calças yorubá nigerianas,
05:11
and, improbably, a South African
Zulu fighting stick.
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e, incrivelmente, uma lança
de luta zulu sul-africana.
05:17
All harmoniously coexist on one body.
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Tudo coexistindo
harmoniosamente em um corpo.
05:22
And with "Sartorial Anarchy,"
I began to invest more
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Com "Sartorial Anarchy",
comecei a investir mais
05:27
into the organization of my pictures.
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na organização das minhas fotos.
05:31
I also began to investigate
the vast possibilities of color:
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Também comecei a investigar
as vastas possibilidades da cor:
05:38
its emotional values,
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seus valores emocionais,
05:40
psychological impulse,
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impulsos psicológicos,
05:43
poetic allure
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sedução poética
05:45
and a boundless capacity beyond
the realm of meaning and logic.
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e uma capacidade ilimitada
além do significado e da lógica.
05:52
Now, enter Nollywood.
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Aqui entra Nollywood.
05:55
In October of 2014,
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Em outubro de 2014,
05:57
I returned to Lagos, Nigeria,
after over three decades away
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retornei a Lagos, na Nigéria,
depois de mais de três décadas fora
06:03
and took photographs
of 64 Nollywood personalities.
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e tirei fotos de 64
personalidades de Nollywood.
06:08
I captured a cross section
of the industry,
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Capturei uma parcela da indústria,
06:13
as well as the next generation
of rising stars.
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e a próxima geração
de estrelas que surgia.
06:19
Nollywood is the first time that you have
a school of African filmmakers
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Com Nollywood, pela primeira vez temos
uma escola de cineastas africanos
06:25
truly, truly, profoundly in charge
of telling African stories.
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verdadeiramente encarregados
de contar histórias africanas.
06:32
In their varied movies --
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Em seus filmes variados,
06:34
from romantic movies, horror films,
gangster movies to action movies --
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desde filmes românticos, de horror,
de gangsters até filmes de ação,
06:41
one sees Nigerians portrayed
with many layers of complexities.
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vemos os nigerianos retratados
com muitos níveis de complexidade.
06:47
All the Nigerian, or "Naija," archetypes,
if you allow, are there --
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Todos os arquétipos nigerianos,
ou "naija", se me permitem, estão ali,
06:55
from the divvers, the "Shakara,"
the coquette,
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desde o tolo, o "Shakara", a coquete,
07:00
the gangsters, the rich,
the corrupt politicians,
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os gangsters, os ricos,
os políticos corruptos,
07:05
the whore, the pimp --
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a prostituta, o cafetão,
07:07
all in their swagger.
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todos altivos.
07:09
And of course, you have the lowlifes
and the losers, too,
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E, claro, temos os imorais
e os perdedores, também,
07:12
all vividly portrayed.
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todos vividamente retratados.
07:16
Nollywood is Africa's mirror
par excellence.
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Nollywood é, por excelência,
o espelho da África.
07:21
Typically, I direct all of my portraits,
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Tipicamente, direciono meus retratos
07:25
from the way my subject
conducts his or her head,
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pela forma como o retratado
conduz sua cabeça,
07:30
the way the neck is tilted,
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como o pescoço se inclina,
07:33
the expression of the fingers,
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a expressão dos dedos,
07:36
the gestures of the hands,
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os gestos com as mãos,
07:39
to the gaze
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o olhar
07:41
and overall bearing and countenance.
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e o comportamento
e semblante como um todo.
07:44
Let me describe
some of the photographs for you.
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Deixem-me descrever
algumas das fotografias.
07:47
Genevieve Nnaji.
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Genevieve Nnaji.
07:49
She is the reigning queen of Nollywood.
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Ela é a rainha de Nollywood.
07:51
Here, I was quoting from the grand,
iconic African cultures
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Aqui fiz referência à grandiosa
e icônica cultura africana
07:57
of the Nile Valley civilizations;
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das civilizações do Vale do Nilo;
08:00
namely, Egypt, Sudan and Ethiopia,
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ou seja, Egito, Sudão e Etiópia,
08:03
so as to imbue her with a stately,
ironic, calm grandeur.
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de forma a imbuí-la de uma grandeza
imponente, faraônica e calma.
08:11
Taiwo Ajai-Lycett is
the grande dame of Nollywood.
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Taiwo Ajai-Lycett
é a grande dama de Nollywood.
08:17
Every aspect of her being
commands attention.
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Todos os aspectos do seu ser
chamam a atenção.
08:23
So I posed her with her back
to the audience.
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Então posicionei-a
de costas para a plateia.
08:27
Her face turned to meet us
with a redoubtable gaze.
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Seu rosto virado nos encontra
com um olhar admirável.
08:34
She doesn't need to seek our approval.
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Ela não precisa da nossa aprovação.
08:38
She's all that.
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Ela é tudo isso.
08:40
Sadiq Daba.
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Sadiq Daba.
08:42
There was an unspoken
authoritarian and imperial bearing
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Um comportamento imperial
e autoritário implícito
08:47
that Sadiq Daba exudes upon meeting him.
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exala de Sadiq Daba quando o encontramos.
08:52
In this portrait, he simply sat
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Neste retrato, ele simplesmente sentou
08:57
and allowed his massive,
massive Nigerian caftan
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e permitiu que sua volumosa
túnica nigeriana
09:03
to signal his status.
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indicasse seu status.
09:06
Quite an accomplishment.
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Que feito.
09:09
Belinda Effah.
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Belinda Effah.
09:11
Belinda Effah's portrait allowed me
to indulge my passion for color,
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O retrato de Belinda Effah me permitiu
satisfazer minha paixão pelas cores.
09:15
dressed in a long, fitted blue dress
that emphasizes her curves,
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Vestindo um vestido azul longo e justo,
que realça suas curvas,
09:22
seated on an upholstered
green velvet bench.
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sentada em um sofá
acolchoado em veludo verde,
09:26
I gamely employed the multicolored carpet
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arrisquei usar o tapete multicolorido
09:32
and a vibrant color,
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e uma cor vibrante
09:34
in order to evoke the splendor
of the multicolored painted bunting bird.
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para evocar o esplendor
de um pássaro multicolorido.
09:41
Everything was designed to harmonize
the figure of Belinda within the frame.
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Tudo projetado para harmonizar
a imagem de Belinda no quadro.
09:49
Monalisa Chinda is, shall we say,
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Monalisa Chinda é, podemos dizer,
09:53
the epitome of the luxe
existence and lifestyle.
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a personificação do estilo de vida
e existência de luxo.
09:57
Her picture, or portrait,
pretty much speaks for itself.
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Sua imagem, ou retrato, fala por si.
10:02
Alexx Ekubo is a sharp study
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Alexx Ekubo é um estudo profundo
10:07
in simplified elegance and dignity
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de elegância e dignidade simplificadas,
10:11
and a harmony in blue and white, as well.
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assim como uma harmonia em azul e branco.
10:16
Enyinna Nwigwe
is a Nollywood matinee idol.
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Enyinna Nwigwe é um ídolo
da matinê de Nollywood.
10:20
There is whiff of the rake about him,
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Há um sopro libertino sobre ele,
10:25
and that gives him an enchanting edge.
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e isso dá a ele uma aura de encantamento.
10:29
That's what I felt when I designed
and organized the portrait.
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Foi o que senti quando projetei
e organizei o retrato.
10:34
Now, Nollywood is a new phase of Africa.
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Agora, Nollywood
é uma nova fase da África.
10:39
It is modern, post-modern,
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É moderna, pós-moderna,
10:44
meta-modern, bold
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metamoderna, audaciosa,
10:47
sexy, shrewd
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sexy, perspicaz
10:50
and with a contagious
attitude worth catching.
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e com uma atitude contagiante
que vale a pena captar.
10:55
As the finale of the project,
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Para finalizar o projeto,
10:58
I assembled the Nollywood stars
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reuni as estrelas de Nollywood
11:01
into a group grand portrait
of 64 subjects,
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num grande retrato de grupo de 64 pessoas,
11:06
called "The School of Nollywood,"
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chamado "Escola de Nollywood",
11:10
which was inspired
by Rafael's "School of Athens,"
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inspirado na "Escola de Atenas",
11:15
that was done circa 1509.
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de Rafael, feita por volta de 1509.
11:20
It is at the Vatican.
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Está no Vaticano.
11:22
This grand group portrait
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Esse grande retrato de grupo
11:25
is the exact same size
as Rafael's "School of Athens."
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tem o mesmo tamanho
da "Escola de Atenas" de Rafael.
11:31
It measures roughly 27 feet in width
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Mede em torno de oito metros de largura
11:36
by six and a half feet in height.
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por dois e altura.
11:40
Nollywood also exemplifies
a type of modernity
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Nollywood também exemplifica
um tipo de modernidade
11:44
never before seen in Africa.
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nunca vista na África.
11:47
Think of it:
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Pensem nisto:
11:48
there has never been anything
so ubiquitous
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nunca houve nada tão universal
11:53
with such iconic optics
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com uma óptica tão icônica
11:56
to come out of Africa
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vinda da África
11:57
since the Nile Valley civilizations
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desde as civilizações do Vale do Nilo
12:02
of Egypt, Sudan, Ethiopia.
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do Egito, Sudão e Etiópia.
12:07
Outside of Nollywood,
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Fora de Nollywood,
12:09
the image of Africa remains frozen
in the old "National Geographic" mode
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a imagem da África permanece congelada
no antigo estilo "National Geographic"
12:15
and safari perspective.
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e na perspectiva de safáris.
12:18
But as Africans continue to step
and see themselves portrayed by Nollywood
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Mas ao se verem retratados por Nollywood
12:25
in their varied
and fantastic complexities,
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em suas variadas
e fantásticas complexidades,
12:29
they will, in turn,
propagate and perpetuate
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os africanos irão propagar e perpetuar
12:33
the positive image of themselves.
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a imagem positiva deles mesmos.
12:36
This is what Hollywood did
and continues to do for the West.
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Foi isso que Hollywood fez
e continua a fazer pelo Ocidente.
12:40
As shocking as this may be,
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Tão chocante quanto possa ser,
12:43
it is almost a taboo in the art world
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é quase um tabu no mundo da arte
12:46
to show Africans in a modern framework --
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mostrar os africanos
em um enquadramento moderno,
12:51
that is to say, as polished, dry-cleaned,
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ou seja, refinados, limpos,
12:55
manicured, pedicured and coiffed.
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com pés, mãos e cabelos arrumados.
12:59
(Applause)
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(Aplausos)
13:04
Part of my job is to keep
beautifying Africa for the world,
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Parte do meu trabalho é continuar
embelezando a África para o mundo,
13:10
one portrait at a time.
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um retrato por vez.
13:13
Thank you.
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Obrigado.
13:14
(Applause)
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(Aplausos)
Translated by Cláudia Sander
Reviewed by Custodio Marcelino

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ABOUT THE SPEAKER
Iké Udé - Artist
The work of Nigerian-born Iké Udé explores a world of dualities: photographer/performance artist, artist/spectator, African/post-nationalist, mainstream/marginal, individual/everyman and fashion/art.

Why you should listen

Iké Udé's ongoing photographic self-portrait series, "Sartorial Anarchy," showa him dressed in varied costumes across geography and time. As a Nigerian-born, New York–based artist, conversant with the world of fashion and celebrity, Udé gives conceptual aspects of performance and representation a new vitality, melding his own theatrical selves and multiple personae with his art. Udé plays with the ambiguities of the marketplace and art world, particularly in his seminal art, culture and fashion magazine, aRUDE and recently his style blog, theCHIC INDEX.

Udé is the author of Beyond Decorum (MIT Press, 2000), which accompanied a traveling exhibition of his photography, and Style File: The World’s Most Elegantly Dressed (2008), a remarkable volume that profiles 55 arbiters of style, including Isabel and Ruben Toledo, Victoire de Castellane, André Leon Talley, Dita Von Teese, Ute Lemper, Lapo Elkann and many others. His work is in the permanent collections of the Solomon R. Guggenheim Museum, the Smithsonian Museum of Art and in many private collections. The esteemed online auction house, Artsy, ranked him -- along with Rembrandt, van Gogh, Warhol -- among the top 10 "Masters of the Self-Portrait." He has made the coveted Vanity Fair magazine's International Best Dressed List in 2009, 2012 and 2015.

More profile about the speaker
Iké Udé | Speaker | TED.com