TEDGlobal 2017
Walé Oyéjidé: Fashion that celebrates African strength and spirit
Walé Oyéjidé: 歌颂非洲力量与精神的时尚
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“成为非洲人将受到文化的启发，充满对未来潜在的希望，”设计师兼 TED 成员 Walé Oyéjidé 说到。 凭借他的品牌 IkiréJones（你会看到他们在漫威的“黑豹”中的作品），他用古典设计来展现经常被边缘化的群体们所具有的高贵和优雅，用美妙剪裁的服装述说着这一切。
Walé Oyéjidé - Designer, writer, musician, lawyer
TED Fellow Walé Oyéjidé combats bias with creative storytelling. Full bio
TED Fellow Walé Oyéjidé combats bias with creative storytelling. Full bio
Double-click the English transcript below to play the video.
00:12
It is often said that the stories
of history are written by its victors,
of history are written by its victors,
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我们常说历史的故事是由胜利者所撰写的，
00:17
but if this is true,
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但如果这是真的，
00:18
what becomes of the downtrodden,
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那被压迫的一方又将如何？
他们又将如何去期望追求更加美好的事物？
00:20
and how can they ever hope
to aspire for something greater
to aspire for something greater
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如果他们从来没有听说过
属于他们自己的，辉煌的过去？
属于他们自己的，辉煌的过去？
00:23
if they are never told the stories
of their own glorious pasts?
of their own glorious pasts?
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00:27
Ostensibly, I stand before you
as a mere maker of clothing,
as a mere maker of clothing,
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表面上，我仅仅以一位衣服制造者的
身份站在你面前，
身份站在你面前，
00:31
but within the folds of ancient fabrics
and modern textiles,
and modern textiles,
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但在古老布料和现代纺织品的皱褶中，
我找到了更高的启示。
00:34
I have found a higher calling.
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00:37
Through my work as a designer,
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透过我身为设计师的工作，
00:38
I've discovered the importance
of providing representation
of providing representation
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我发现了为我们社会被边缘化的
成员提供“表现”的重要性，
成员提供“表现”的重要性，
00:42
for the marginalized members
of our society,
of our society,
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00:45
and the importance of telling
the most vulnerable among us
the most vulnerable among us
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并且告诉那些在我们当中最弱势的一群，
他们再也不必妥协让步，
00:48
that they no longer have
to compromise themselves
to compromise themselves
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只有这样他们才能融入进
不必将就的主流中去。
不必将就的主流中去。
00:50
just so they can fit in
with an uncompromising majority.
with an uncompromising majority.
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00:54
It turns out that fashion,
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其实流行，
00:56
a discipline many of us
consider to be trivial,
consider to be trivial,
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这个大部分的人都认为不重要的纪律，
其实可以是一个很强大的工具来瓦解偏见，
00:58
can actually be a powerful tool
for dismantling bias
for dismantling bias
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以及提升一些不受瞩目群体的形象。
01:02
and bolstering the self-images
of underrepresented populations.
of underrepresented populations.
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01:06
My interest in using design
as a vehicle for social change
as a vehicle for social change
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我致力于以设计作为改造社会的工具
背后的原因和我自己很有关系。
01:10
happens to be a personal one.
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01:12
As a Nigerian American,
I know how easily the term "African"
I know how easily the term "African"
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身为位尼日利亚裔美国人，
我知道“非洲人”这一个词很容易
我知道“非洲人”这一个词很容易
01:15
can slip from being
an ordinary geographic descriptor
an ordinary geographic descriptor
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从一个普通的地理形容词变成一个贬义词。
01:18
to becoming a pejorative.
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01:21
For those of us
from this beautiful continent,
from this beautiful continent,
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对于来自这个美丽大陆的我们，
01:24
to be African is to be inspired by culture
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成为非洲人注定受到文化的启发，
01:27
and to be filled with undying
hope for the future.
hope for the future.
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并且对于未来充满潜在的的希望。
01:30
So in an attempt to shift
the misguided perceptions that many have
the misguided perceptions that many have
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所以尝试去转变那些大众对我出生地的误解，
01:35
about the place of my birth,
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01:36
I use design as a means to tell stories,
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我利用设计作为我讲述故事的媒介，
01:39
stories about joy,
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喜悦的故事、
01:41
stories about triumph,
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胜利的故事、
01:42
stories about perseverance
all throughout the African diaspora.
all throughout the African diaspora.
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关于全体非洲侨民毅力的故事。
01:46
I tell these stories
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我讲述这些故事，
01:47
as a concerted effort
to correct the historical record,
to correct the historical record,
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是为了以共同的努力修正历史的记录，
01:51
because, no matter
where any of us is from,
where any of us is from,
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因为，不管我们任何人来自哪里，
01:54
each of us has been touched
by the complicated histories
by the complicated histories
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我们每一个人都曾接触过这个复杂的历史，
01:56
that brought our families
to a foreign land.
to a foreign land.
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将我们的家庭带到了一个陌生的土地。
01:59
These histories shape
the way we view the world,
the way we view the world,
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这些历史改变我们对个这个世界的看法，
02:02
and they mold the biases
we carry around with us.
we carry around with us.
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并且也造成了伴随着我们的偏见。
02:06
To combat these biases,
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为了对抗这些偏见，
02:07
my work draws aesthetics
from different parts of the globe
from different parts of the globe
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我的作品吸纳了世界各地的美学，
02:10
and crafts a narrative
about the importance
about the importance
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创造了阐述“为了包容而战”的重要性的旁白。
02:12
of fighting for inclusivity.
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02:15
By refashioning images
from classic European art
from classic European art
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通过重新赋予欧洲古典艺术图片以新的时尚意义，
02:18
and marrying them with African aesthetics,
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并将他们与非洲美学拼接，
02:20
I am able to recast people of color
in roles of prominence,
in roles of prominence,
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我得以重塑有色人种的卓越，
02:23
providing them with a degree of dignity
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赋予他们在早些时候所不曾拥有的，一定的尊严。
02:25
they didn't have in earlier times.
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02:29
This approach subverts the historically
accepted narrative of African inferiority,
accepted narrative of African inferiority,
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这种方式颠覆了“卑劣的非洲人”这一传统观念，
02:33
and it serves as inspiration
for people of color
for people of color
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是对那些不会轻易把自己视作
没有教养和优雅的有色人种的鼓舞。
没有教养和优雅的有色人种的鼓舞。
02:36
who have grown wary of seeing
themselves depicted without sophistication
themselves depicted without sophistication
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02:39
and without grace.
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02:42
Each of these culture-bending tapestries
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这些曲解文化的挂毯，
02:44
becomes a tailored garment
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变成了被剪裁的服饰，
02:46
or a silk scarf, like the one I am
very coincidentally wearing right now.
very coincidentally wearing right now.
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或是我现在特意穿着的这条丝绸围巾。
02:50
(Laughter)
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（笑声）
02:51
And even when surrounded
in a structure of European classicism,
in a structure of European classicism,
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即使被包围在欧洲古典主义结构之中，
02:55
these narratives boldly extoll
the merits of African empowerment.
the merits of African empowerment.
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这些叙述也能英勇的赞美赋予非洲人权利的优点。
02:59
In this way, the tools of the masters
become masterworks
become masterworks
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这样，大师的工具就变成了
用来欢颂那些曾经屈服的人们的杰作。
用来欢颂那些曾经屈服的人们的杰作。
03:04
to celebrate those
who were once subservient.
who were once subservient.
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03:09
This metaphor extends
beyond the realm of art
beyond the realm of art
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这一比喻超越了艺术的界限，
03:11
and out into the real world.
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直达真实的世界，
03:13
Whether worn by refugees
or world-changing entrepreneurs,
or world-changing entrepreneurs,
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无论是被难民穿着，还是被改变世界的企业家穿着。
03:16
when people are allowed
the freedom to present themselves
the freedom to present themselves
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当人们被赋予了自由，
03:19
in a manner that celebrates
their own unique identities,
their own unique identities,
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能够以欢庆他们独特的个性来表达自我时，
03:22
a magical thing happens.
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神奇的事情发生了。
03:24
We stand taller.
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我们站的更高，
03:25
We're more proud and self-aware
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我们更加骄傲自豪，
03:27
because we're presenting
our true, authentic selves.
our true, authentic selves.
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因为我们在表达真实可信的自我。
03:30
And those of us who are around them
in turn become more educated,
in turn become more educated,
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在世人身边的我们，变得更加有教养。
03:34
more open and more tolerant
of their different points of view.
of their different points of view.
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对世人的不同观点，我们变得更加开放和宽容。
03:38
In this way, the clothes that we wear
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如此，我们所穿的服饰
03:41
can be a great illustration
of diplomatic soft power.
of diplomatic soft power.
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能成为外交软实力强有力的图解。
03:45
The clothes that we wear
can serve as bridges
can serve as bridges
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我们的服饰可以充当
03:47
between our seemingly disparate cultures.
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我们表面上看起来充满差异的文化的桥梁。
03:50
And so, yeah, ostensibly I stand
before you as a mere maker of clothing.
before you as a mere maker of clothing.
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确实如此，嗯，表面上我仅作为
一个服装设计师站在你的面前，
一个服装设计师站在你的面前，
03:56
But my work has always
been about more than fashion.
been about more than fashion.
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但我的工作不局限于时尚。
04:00
It has become my purpose
to rewrite the cultural narratives
to rewrite the cultural narratives
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它早已成为我重写文化叙述的目标，
04:02
so that people of color can be seen
in a new and nuanced light,
in a new and nuanced light,
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这样有色人种才能被一种新的，
细微的方式看待。
细微的方式看待。
04:06
and so that we,
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这样我们作为
04:08
the proud children of sub-Saharan Africa,
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撒哈拉以南非洲骄傲的孩子，
才能带着我们的自豪，跨越全球。
04:10
can traverse the globe
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04:11
while carrying ourselves with pride.
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04:14
It was indeed true
that the stories of history
that the stories of history
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确实如此，历史总是由它古老的胜利者来诉说，
04:17
were told by its old victors,
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04:20
but I am of a new generation.
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但我是新的一代人，
04:23
My work speaks for those
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我的工作就是为了这些不再让他们的
未来被苦难的过去所支配的人而发声。
未来被苦难的过去所支配的人而发声。
04:24
who will no longer let their futures
be dictated by a troubled past.
be dictated by a troubled past.
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04:28
Today, we stand ready
to tell our own stories
to tell our own stories
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今天，我们准备好讲述我们自己的故事了，
04:32
without compromise, without apologies.
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没有妥协，也没有道歉，
04:35
But the question still remains:
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但问题仍然存在：
04:37
are you prepared
for what you are about to hear?
for what you are about to hear?
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你们为你们即将听到的一切做好了准备吗？
04:42
I hope you are, because
we are coming regardless.
we are coming regardless.
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我希望是的，因为无论如何，我们来了。
04:46
(Applause)
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（掌声）
ABOUT THE SPEAKER
Walé Oyéjidé - Designer, writer, musician, lawyerTED Fellow Walé Oyéjidé combats bias with creative storytelling.
Why you should listen
As the founder of Ikiré Jones, Walé Oyéjidé, Esq. employs fashion design as a vehicle to celebrate the perspectives of marginalized populations.
In addition to his role as the brand's creative director, Walé Oyéjidé designs Ikiré Jones's textiles/accessories and serves as the company's writer. Oyéjidé is a TED Fellow, and his apparel design can be seen in the upcoming Marvel Studios film "Black Panther."
Oyéjidé's design work was part of the "Making Africa" contemporary design exhibit, which was at the Vitra Design Museum in Germany, the Guggenheim Bilbao in Spain, the Kunsthal in Rotterdam, and the HIGH Museum of Art in Atlanta. He was also featured in the "Creative Africa" exhibit at the Philadelphia Museum of Art. His work exhibited at the Tel Aviv Museum of Art and the Fowler Museum, UCLA. He has been invited to lecture about his work in Brazil, Ecuador, France and Tanzania. His designs also appeared as part of the "Generation Africa" fashion show at Pitti Uomo 89 in Florence, Italy.
Oyéjidé's writings include freelance creative copywriting for Airbnb. He is also an attorney, public speaker, and a recording artist/producer that has collaborated with J-Dilla and MF Doom, among others. And for what it's worth, Esquire Magazine noted Oyéjidé as one of the best-dressed men in the United States.
Walé Oyéjidé | Speaker | TED.com