TED2019
Jon Gray: The next big thing is coming from the Bronx, again
乔恩·格雷: 下一件大事会再次来自布朗克斯
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Readability: 4.9
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“我们这地儿，一切都很好。”来自布朗克斯区的乔恩·格雷如是说。他是位于纽约的创意集体 Ghetto Gastro（贫民窟美食）的一员。格雷和他的团队活跃于美食、设计与艺术的交界，将无拘无束的创意和天马行空的想象力运用于意想不到的超凡合作中，以此向他们社区的灵魂与历史致敬。让我们深入了解他们如何在自家社区里进行创作和投资——把布朗克斯带给世界，把世界带回布朗克斯。
Jon Gray - Food enthusiast, dishwasher
Culinary evangelist Jon Gray is the voice of Ghetto Gastro, a cooking advocacy collective that ignites conversations about race, class and inclusion via the medium of food. Full bio
Culinary evangelist Jon Gray is the voice of Ghetto Gastro, a cooking advocacy collective that ignites conversations about race, class and inclusion via the medium of food. Full bio
Double-click the English transcript below to play the video.
00:12
My name is Jon Gray.
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我叫乔恩·格雷。
00:14
They call me "The Dishwasher."
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他们都叫我“洗碗工”。
00:17
I cofounded Ghetto Gastro,
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我是 "贫民区美食" Ghetto Gastro
的联合创始人，
的联合创始人，
00:20
a Bronx-based collective
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它是一个位于布朗克斯区的集体，
00:22
that works at the intersection
of food, design and art.
of food, design and art.
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专注于美食、设计和艺术的交集。
00:27
We create experiences that challenge
people's perceptions of the Bronx,
people's perceptions of the Bronx,
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我们创造不同的体验，
改变人们对布朗克斯——
也就是我的家的看法。
也就是我的家的看法。
00:33
the place that I call home.
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00:37
It's a funny thing.
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说来有趣，
00:39
I just touched down in Vancouver
from Paris a few days ago.
from Paris a few days ago.
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我几天前刚从巴黎飞回温哥华。
00:43
We took over the Place Vendôme
with the Bronx Brasserie.
with the Bronx Brasserie.
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我们用 Bronx Brasserie
占领了旺多姆广场。
占领了旺多姆广场。
00:48
Oui oui, chérie.
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（法语）没错没错，亲爱的。
00:50
(Laughter)
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（笑声）
00:53
It's wild, because in Paris,
they have this saying,
they have this saying,
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这是件疯狂的事，
因为在巴黎有个说法
因为在巴黎有个说法
00:56
"le Bronx,"
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“le Bronx"（布朗克斯），
00:58
which means something
is in disarray or a problem.
is in disarray or a problem.
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意思是某件事有问题
或者处于无序的状态中。
或者处于无序的状态中。
01:03
That's the Place Vendôme.
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这是旺多姆广场。
01:05
We shut it down one time.
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我们曾一度让它关门。
01:06
(Laughter)
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（笑声）
01:08
This lingo came into play
when the Bronx was burning,
when the Bronx was burning,
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这种用语诞生于布朗克斯区纵火案猖獗
的 70 年代（此处添加了译者注），
的 70 年代（此处添加了译者注），
01:12
and movies like "The Warriors"
and "Fort Apache"
and "Fort Apache"
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人们也都还记得《战士帮》《阿帕奇要塞》
【注：均为 80 年代初布朗克斯犯罪电影】
【注：均为 80 年代初布朗克斯犯罪电影】
这类电影。
01:16
still make an impression.
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01:18
Some may disagree,
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有的人或许不予赞同，
01:20
but I believe the Bronx
was designed to fail.
was designed to fail.
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但我认为，布朗克斯的城市规划
从根本上杜绝了它成长的可能。
从根本上杜绝了它成长的可能。
01:24
The power broker was a joker.
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权力掮客是一介小丑。
【注：《权利掮客》是罗伯特·摩西的传记名】
【注：《权利掮客》是罗伯特·摩西的传记名】
01:28
Robert Moses, instead of
parting the Red Sea,
parting the Red Sea,
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罗伯特·摩西并没有劈开红海，
【注：罗伯特·摩西是20世纪纽约城市规划师】
【注：罗伯特·摩西是20世纪纽约城市规划师】
01:31
he parted the Bronx
with a six-lane highway
with a six-lane highway
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而是用六车道高速公路
隔开了布朗克斯，
隔开了布朗克斯，
01:34
and redlined my community.
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将我的社区列入"重点观察对象"。
01:37
My great-grandparents
had a home on Featherbed Lane,
had a home on Featherbed Lane,
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我的曾祖父母住在
菲瑟贝德（意为“羽毛床道”）上，
菲瑟贝德（意为“羽毛床道”）上，
01:41
and contrary to the name,
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可与这个名字相反，
01:42
they couldn't get a good night's rest
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他们没法睡一晚好觉，
01:45
due to the constant blasting
and drilling that was necessary
and drilling that was necessary
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因为在一个街区外，
为了修建跨布朗克斯高速，
为了修建跨布朗克斯高速，
爆破与打钻的声音
01:48
to build the cross-Bronx expressway
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不绝于耳。
01:51
a block away.
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01:53
I consider these policy decisions
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我认为，这些政策决定
01:56
design crimes.
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是设计犯罪。
01:58
(Applause)
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（掌声）
02:02
Being the resilient people
that we are uptown,
that we are uptown,
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作为上城区出身的
坚韧的人们，
坚韧的人们，
02:05
out of the systematic oppression
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为了反抗系统性的压迫，
02:08
hip-hop culture rose from the rubble
and the ashes like a phoenix.
and the ashes like a phoenix.
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嘻哈文化如同凤凰，
从瓦砾与灰烬中浴火重生。
从瓦砾与灰烬中浴火重生。
02:14
Hip-hop is now a trillion-dollar industry,
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嘻哈现在已是价值上万亿的产业，
02:17
but this economic activity
doesn't make it back to the Bronx
doesn't make it back to the Bronx
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然而其经济活动
却未能反哺布朗克斯，
却未能反哺布朗克斯，
02:20
or communities like it.
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或者其他与布朗克斯相似的社区。
02:23
Let's take it back to 1986.
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让我们重回 1986 年。
02:26
I was born in the heart
of the AIDS crisis,
of the AIDS crisis,
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我出生的时候正值
艾滋病危机高峰，
艾滋病危机高峰，
02:29
the crack epidemic
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同时还有快客可卡因流行，
02:31
and the War on Drugs.
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以及禁毒战争。
02:33
The only thing that trickled down
from Reaganomics was ghettonomics:
from Reaganomics was ghettonomics:
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里根经济学的涓滴效应
只带来了贫民窟经济：
只带来了贫民窟经济：
02:38
pain, prison and poverty.
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痛苦、牢狱、贫穷。
02:44
I was raised by brilliant, beautiful
and accomplished black women.
and accomplished black women.
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养育我的是聪慧、美丽、
事业有成的黑人女性。
事业有成的黑人女性。
02:50
Even so, my pops wasn't in the picture,
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即便如此，我的老爹
并未担起家庭的重责，
并未担起家庭的重责，
02:54
and I couldn't resist
the allure of the streets.
the allure of the streets.
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而我也不能抗拒
街头的诱惑。
街头的诱惑。
02:57
Like Biggie said,
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就像大个子（声名狼藉先生）所说的，
02:59
you're either slinging crack rock
or you got a wicked jump shot.
or you got a wicked jump shot.
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“你不是把快客卖，
就是跳投得贼帅。”
就是跳投得贼帅。”
03:03
Don't get it twisted, my jumper was wet.
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别搞错了，我打球很牛逼。
03:06
(Laughter)
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（笑声）
03:08
My shit was wet.
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屌炸天。
03:09
(Applause)
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（掌声）
03:13
But when I turned 15,
I started selling weed,
I started selling weed,
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但当我 15 岁时，
我开始卖大麻，
我开始卖大麻，
03:16
I didn't finish high school,
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就没能念完高中，
03:18
the New York Board of Education
banned me from all of those,
banned me from all of those,
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因为纽约教育局不让我毕业，
03:21
but I did graduate
to selling cocaine when I turned 18.
to selling cocaine when I turned 18.
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不过我 18 岁时开始卖可卡因。
03:25
I did well.
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我还挺成功的。
03:26
That was until I got jammed up,
caught a case, when I was 20.
caught a case, when I was 20.
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直到二十岁时，
被条子抓进了局子。
被条子抓进了局子。
03:31
I was facing 10 years.
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面临十年牢狱之灾。
03:34
I posted bail, signed up
at the Fashion Institute,
at the Fashion Institute,
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我得到保释，
报名进了时装设计学院，
报名进了时装设计学院，
03:38
I applied the skills
that I learned in the streets
that I learned in the streets
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我将在街头学到的技能
03:40
to start my own fashion brand.
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用于开创自己的时装品牌上。
03:42
My lawyer peeked my ambition,
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我的律师发现了我的志向，
03:45
so he suggested that the judge
grant me a suspended sentence.
grant me a suspended sentence.
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他向法官建议给我缓刑。
03:49
For once in my life,
a suspension was a good thing.
a suspension was a good thing.
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人生中第一次，
暂令停缓成了件好事。
暂令停缓成了件好事。
03:51
(Laughter)
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（笑声）
03:55
Over the course of two years
and many court dates,
and many court dates,
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经过了两年时间，多次出庭，
03:59
my case got dismissed.
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告我的案子被驳回了。
04:02
Both of my brothers have done jail time,
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我的两位兄弟都蹲过监狱，
04:05
so escaping the clutches
of the prison industrial system
of the prison industrial system
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所以躲过监狱产业系统的魔爪这件事
04:08
didn't seem realistic to me.
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对我来说有些不真实。
04:10
Right now, one of my brothers
is facing 20 years.
is facing 20 years.
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现在，我的一个兄弟
还面临着二十年刑期。
还面临着二十年刑期。
04:15
My mother put in great effort
in taking me out to eat,
in taking me out to eat,
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我的母亲付出了很多努力
带我们出去吃饭，
带我们出去吃饭，
04:18
making sure we visited museums
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去参观博物馆，
04:20
and traveled abroad,
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出国旅游，
04:22
basically exposing me
to as much culture as she could.
to as much culture as she could.
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总之就是尽她所能
让我充分接受文化熏陶。
让我充分接受文化熏陶。
04:28
I remembered how as a kid,
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我还记得我小时候，
04:29
I used to take over the dinner table
and order food for everybody.
and order food for everybody.
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曾经负责我们的饭桌，
为所有人点菜。
为所有人点菜。
04:34
Breaking bread has always
allowed me to break the mold
allowed me to break the mold
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分享面包总能帮我破冰，
04:37
and connect with people.
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与他人建立联系。
04:39
Me and my homie Les,
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我和我的好哥们雷斯
04:40
we grew up on the same block in the Bronx,
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在布朗克斯的同一个街区长大，
04:42
two street dudes.
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两个街头小子。
04:44
He happened to be a chef.
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他碰巧是位厨师。
04:45
We always discussed the possibility
of doing something in the food game
of doing something in the food game
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我们总会讨论是否可能
在餐饮产业做出一番名堂，
在餐饮产业做出一番名堂，
04:48
for the benefit of our neighborhood.
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造福我们的邻里。
04:51
Les had just won the food show "Chopped."
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雷斯刚刚在美食节目
《厨艺大战（Chopped）》中夺得桂冠。
《厨艺大战（Chopped）》中夺得桂冠。
04:54
Our homie Malcolm was gearing up
to run a pastry kitchen at Noma,
to run a pastry kitchen at Noma,
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我们的哥们儿马尔科姆整装待发，
准备在诺玛餐厅经营糕点厨房，
准备在诺玛餐厅经营糕点厨房，
04:58
yeah, world's best Noma in Copenhagen,
you know the vibes.
you know the vibes.
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没错，位于哥本哈根的全球
最佳餐厅诺玛，那里的气氛你懂的。
最佳餐厅诺玛，那里的气氛你懂的。
05:03
My man P had just
finished training in I-I-Italy,
finished training in I-I-Italy,
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我的老友 P 刚刚结束
在意大利的培训，
在意大利的培训，
05:07
Milano to be exact.
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准确说来是在米兰。
05:09
We decided the world needed
some Bronx steasoning on it,
some Bronx steasoning on it,
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我们觉得世界需要一些
布朗克斯的调味，
布朗克斯的调味，
05:13
so we mobbed up and formed Ghetto Gastro.
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所以我们结伙组建了
"贫民区美食"。
"贫民区美食"。
05:16
(Applause)
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（掌声）
05:26
While I'm aware our name
makes a lot of people uncomfortable,
makes a lot of people uncomfortable,
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虽说我清楚我们的名字
会让很多人感到不适，
会让很多人感到不适，
但对于我们来说
“ghetto”（贫民区）意味着家。
“ghetto”（贫民区）意味着家。
05:29
for us "ghetto" means home.
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05:31
Similar to the way
someone in Mumbai or Nairobi
someone in Mumbai or Nairobi
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就像孟买或内罗毕的某人
05:34
might use the word "slum,"
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使用“slum”（贫民窟）这个词的方式，
05:37
it's to locate our people
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这是为了找到我们的人民，
05:38
and to indict the systems of neglect
that created these conditions.
that created these conditions.
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以及对造成这些状况的
系统性忽视提出控诉。
系统性忽视提出控诉。
05:43
(Applause)
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（掌声）
05:48
So what is Ghetto Gastro?
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那么 Ghetto Gastro 究竟是什么呢？
05:50
Ultimately, it's a movement
and a philosophy.
and a philosophy.
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归根结底，它是一个运动，
一种哲学。
一种哲学。
05:54
We view the work we do as gastrodiplomacy,
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我们将我们的工作
视为美食外交，
视为美食外交，
05:57
using food and finesse
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用食物和手艺
06:00
to open borders and connect culture.
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开拓边界，联结文化。
06:04
Last year in Tokyo,
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去年在东京，
06:06
we did a Caribbean patty,
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我们做了加勒比肉饼，
06:09
we do jerk wagyu beef,
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和牛牛肉干，
06:12
shio kombu.
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盐昆布。
06:13
We remixed the Bronx classic
with the Japanese elements.
with the Japanese elements.
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我们将布朗克斯的经典
与日本元素进行了混合。
与日本元素进行了混合。
06:18
And for Kwanzaa,
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而在宽扎节,
【注：一个非裔美国人节日】
【注：一个非裔美国人节日】
06:20
we had to pay homage to our Puerto Ricans,
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为了向波多黎各朋友致敬，
06:23
and we did a coconut charcoal
cognac coquito. Dímelo!
cognac coquito. Dímelo!
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我们做了椰子木炭干邑鸡尾酒。
(西语) 嘿！
(西语) 嘿！
06:30
(Laughter)
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（笑声）
06:33
This here is our Black Power waffle
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这是我们的黑色力量华夫饼，
【注：与“黑人权力”双关】
【注：与“黑人权力”双关】
06:36
with some gold leaf syrup.
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淋上了金箔糖浆。
06:40
Make sure you don't slip on the drip.
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别在金丝上滑脱了。
【注：drip 为嘻哈歌曲常用俚语】
【注：drip 为嘻哈歌曲常用俚语】
06:42
(Laughter)
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（笑声）
06:44
Here we got the 36 Brix
plant-based velato.
plant-based velato.
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这是我们的 36 Brix 植物原料制冰淇淋。
【注：名字由冰淇淋糖度系数衍生而来】
【注：名字由冰淇淋糖度系数衍生而来】
06:49
Strawberry fields, you know the deal.
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俗称草莓田。
06:53
Compressed watermelon,
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压缩西瓜，
06:55
basil seeds,
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罗勒籽，
06:56
a little bit of strawberries up there.
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上面加一点草莓。
06:59
Back to the Bronx Brasserie,
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我们回到布朗克斯餐厅，
07:02
you know we had to hit them in the head
with that caviar and cornbread.
with that caviar and cornbread.
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要用鱼子酱和玉米面包给他们当头一棒。
【注：法餐和美国非裔经典食物】
【注：法餐和美国非裔经典食物】
07:06
(Laughter)
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（笑声）
07:08
(Applause)
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（掌声）
07:14
We also practice du-rag diplomacy.
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我们还采用“嘻哈头巾外交”。
07:16
(Laughter)
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（笑声）
07:18
Because, we don't edit who we are
when we do our thing.
when we do our thing.
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因为我们在做自己的事时
不会对我们的身份进行修饰。
不会对我们的身份进行修饰。
07:22
Due to our appearance,
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因为我们的样貌，
我们经常被误以为是
说唱歌手或者运动员。
说唱歌手或者运动员。
07:23
we often get mistaken
for rappers or athletes.
for rappers or athletes.
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07:26
It happened here last year at TED.
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去年在 TED 就发生了这样的事情。
07:29
This dude ran down on me
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有个家伙跑来问我，
07:30
and asked me when I was going to perform.
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什么时候我会表演？
07:33
How about now?
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要不要现在来一段？
07:34
(Applause)
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（掌声）
07:42
So you see,
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所以很明显，
07:44
we've been bringing the Bronx to the world
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我们已经致力于
把布朗克斯带给世界，
把布朗克斯带给世界，
07:46
but now we focus on bringing
the world to the Bronx.
the world to the Bronx.
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但现在，我们正专注于
把世界带到布朗克斯。
把世界带到布朗克斯。
07:50
We just opened our spot,
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我们的店刚刚开张，
07:52
an idea kitchen
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一个概念厨房，
07:54
where we make and design products,
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在这里我们制作、设计产品，
07:57
create content --
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创造内容、
07:59
(Music)
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（音乐）
08:12
and host community events.
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并举办社区活动。
08:14
The intention is
to build financial capital
to build financial capital
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我们的目的是，在我们的地盘儿
08:17
and creative capital in our hood.
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积累金融资本以及创意资本。
08:21
We're also collaborating
with world-renowned chef
with world-renowned chef
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我们也和世界知名大厨
08:23
Massimo Bottura
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马西莫·波图拉合作，
08:26
on a refettorio in the Bronx.
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在布朗克斯
经营食堂（refettorio）。
经营食堂（refettorio）。
08:28
A refettorio is a design-focused
soup kitchen and community center.
soup kitchen and community center.
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Reffettorio 食堂是一个专注于
设计的流动厨房与社区中心。
设计的流动厨房与社区中心。
08:33
You see the vibes.
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就是这种氛围。
08:34
(Applause)
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（掌声）
08:40
The recent outpouring of grief
about the murder
about the murder
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最近对于说唱歌手、企业家
尼普西·哈塞尔的谋杀案
尼普西·哈塞尔的谋杀案
08:44
of rapper and entrepreneur Nipsey Hussle
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涌现出的悲痛，
08:47
is largely due to the fact that he decided
to stay and evolve in place,
to stay and evolve in place,
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很大程度是因为
他决定留下在原处发展，
他决定留下在原处发展，
08:52
rather than leave his hood.
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而不是离开他的家。
08:54
After his death, some may see
this decision as foolish,
this decision as foolish,
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在他死后，有些人或许会觉得
这个决定是愚蠢的，
这个决定是愚蠢的，
08:57
but I'm making that same
decision every day:
decision every day:
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但我每天都在做出
同样的决定：
同样的决定：
09:00
to live in the Bronx,
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在布朗克斯生活，
09:01
to create in the Bronx,
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在布朗克斯创造，
09:03
to invest in the Bronx.
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为布朗克斯投资。
09:05
(Applause)
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（掌声）
09:14
At Ghetto Gastro, we don't run
from the word "ghetto,"
from the word "ghetto,"
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在 Ghetto Gastro，
我们不会逃避“贫民窟”这个词，
我们不会逃避“贫民窟”这个词，
09:17
and we don't run from the ghetto.
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也不会从贫民窟逃跑。
09:19
Because at the end of the day,
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因为在最后，
09:21
Ghetto Gastro is about showing you
what we already know:
what we already know:
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Ghetto Gastro 想做的
是向你们展现我们已熟知的一点：
是向你们展现我们已熟知的一点：
09:24
the hood
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我们这地儿
09:26
is good.
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一切都很好。
09:28
(Applause)
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（掌声）
09:33
Thank you.
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谢谢大家。
09:34
(Applause)
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（掌声）
ABOUT THE SPEAKER
Jon Gray - Food enthusiast, dishwasherCulinary evangelist Jon Gray is the voice of Ghetto Gastro, a cooking advocacy collective that ignites conversations about race, class and inclusion via the medium of food.
Why you should listen
Jon Gray is interesting because he's interested. His curiosity has taken him around the globe and has had him seated across the table from world renowned thinkers, artists and chefs, but he's most passionate about home. A cofounder of the Bronx based collective Ghetto Gastro, he's building his own proverbial table, to which he'd like to invite the world. Founded in 2012, Ghetto Gastro honors the block to block shifts and overlap in international cuisine and culture that happens in his borough. The collective is committed to feeding, inspiring and growing young entrepreneurs in the Bronx.
Jon Gray | Speaker | TED.com