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Paola Antonelli: The 3,000-year history of the hoodie
Paola Antonelli: 3000 godina povijesti majice s kapuljačom
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Majica s kapuljačom je puno više od udobnog odjevnog predmeta. Dizajn kustos Paola Antonelli vodi nas kroz njenu povijest.
Paola Antonelli - Design curator
Paola Antonelli is on a mission to introduce -- and explain -- design to the world. With her shows at New York's Museum of Modern Art, she celebrates design's presence in every part of life. Full bio
Paola Antonelli is on a mission to introduce -- and explain -- design to the world. With her shows at New York's Museum of Modern Art, she celebrates design's presence in every part of life. Full bio
Double-click the English transcript below to play the video.
00:12
The hoodie is an amazing object.
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Majica s kapuljačom
je zadivljujuć predmet.
je zadivljujuć predmet.
00:14
It's one of those timeless objects
that we hardly think of,
that we hardly think of,
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To je jedan od onih bezvremenskih predmeta
o kojima rijetko mislimo,
o kojima rijetko mislimo,
00:19
because they work so well
that they're part of our lives.
that they're part of our lives.
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jer nas tako dobro služe
da su postali dio naših života.
da su postali dio naših života.
00:22
We call them "humble masterpieces."
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Zovemo ih "skromna remek-djela."
00:24
[Small thing.]
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[Mala stvar.]
00:25
[Big idea.]
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[Velika ideja.]
00:28
[Paola Antonelli on
the Hoodie]
the Hoodie]
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[Paola Antonelli o majici s kapuljačom]
00:30
The hoodie has been --
even if it was not called so --
even if it was not called so --
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Majica s kapuljačom bila je --
čak i ako je nisu tako zvali --
čak i ako je nisu tako zvali --
00:34
it's been an icon throughout history
for good and for bad reasons.
for good and for bad reasons.
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bila je ikona kroz povijest
zbog dobrih i loših razloga.
zbog dobrih i loših razloga.
00:38
The earliest ones that we can trace
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Najraniji tragovi koje imamo
00:41
are from ancient Greece and ancient Rome.
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su iz antičke Grčke i drevnog Rima.
00:43
The Middle Ages, you see a lot of monks
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U srednjem vijeku, vidite puno redovnika
00:45
that were wearing garments
that were cape-like, with hoods attached,
that were cape-like, with hoods attached,
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koji su nosili odjevne predmete
slične plaštevima, s kapuljačama,
slične plaštevima, s kapuljačama,
zato, "majice s kapuljačom".
00:49
so therefore, "hoodies."
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00:51
Ladies in the 17th century
would wear hoodies
would wear hoodies
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Dame u 17. stoljeću nosile
bi majice s kapuljačom
bi majice s kapuljačom
00:53
to kind of hide themselves
when they were going to meet their lovers.
when they were going to meet their lovers.
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kako bi se nekako sakrile
dok idu na sastanke s ljubavnicima.
dok idu na sastanke s ljubavnicima.
00:57
And then, of course,
there's the legend, there's fantasy.
there's the legend, there's fantasy.
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I naravno, tu su legende,
tu je svijet fantazije.
tu je svijet fantazije.
01:01
There's the image of the hoodie
connected to the grim reaper.
connected to the grim reaper.
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Tu je slika majice s kapuljačom
povezane sa žeteocem smrti.
povezane sa žeteocem smrti.
01:04
There's the image of the hoodie
connected to the executioner.
connected to the executioner.
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Postoji slika majice s kapuljačom
povezane s krvnicima.
povezane s krvnicima.
01:07
So there's the dark side of the hoodie.
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To je tamna strana majice s kapuljačom.
01:10
The modern incarnation of the hoodie --
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Moderna inkarnacija majice s kapuljačom --
01:13
a garment that's made
usually of cotton jersey,
usually of cotton jersey,
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predmeta koji je najčešće od pamuka,
01:16
that has a hood attached
with a drawstring;
with a drawstring;
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koji ima kapuljaču s vezicom;
01:19
sometimes it has a marsupial pocket --
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ponekad ima džep nalik tobolcu --
01:22
was introduced in the 1930s
by Knickerbocker Knitting Company.
by Knickerbocker Knitting Company.
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uveden je 1930. od strane
Knickerbocker Knitting Company.
Knickerbocker Knitting Company.
01:26
Now it's called Champion.
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Sada se zove Champion.
01:28
It was meant to keep athletes warm.
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Trebala je pomoći sportašima da se utople.
01:31
Of course, though, it was
such a functional, comfortable garment
such a functional, comfortable garment
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Naravno, to je bio toliko funkcionalan
i udoban odjevni predmet,
i udoban odjevni predmet,
01:35
that it was very rapidly adopted
by workmen everywhere.
by workmen everywhere.
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da je ubrzo posvuda prihvaćen
od strane radnika.
od strane radnika.
01:39
And then, around the 1980s,
it also gets adopted
it also gets adopted
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I onda je, u osamdesetima,
također prihvaćen
također prihvaćen
01:43
by hip-hop and B-boys, skateboarders,
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od strane hip-hopa,
breakdancera, skejtera
breakdancera, skejtera
01:47
and it takes on this kind of
youth street culture.
youth street culture.
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i preuzima tu uličnu kulturu mladih.
01:50
It was, at the same time,
super-comfortable,
super-comfortable,
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Bio je, u isto vrijeme, super udoban,
01:52
perfect for the streets
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savršen za ulice
01:53
and also had that added value of anonymity
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i također je imao
tu dodanu vrijednost anonimnosti,
tu dodanu vrijednost anonimnosti,
01:57
when you needed it.
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kada je ona bila potrebna.
01:58
And then we have Mark Zuckerberg,
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I onda imamo Marka Zuckerberga,
02:00
who defies convention
of respectable attire for businesspeople.
of respectable attire for businesspeople.
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koji se opire konvenciji
dolične odjeće za poslovne ljude.
dolične odjeće za poslovne ljude.
02:04
But interestingly, it's also a way to show
how power has changed.
how power has changed.
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Ali zanimljivo, to je također način
da se pokaže kako se moć promijenila.
da se pokaže kako se moć promijenila.
02:09
If you're wearing a two-piece suit,
you might be the bodyguard.
you might be the bodyguard.
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Ako nosite dvodjelno odijelo,
možda ste tjelesni čuvar.
možda ste tjelesni čuvar.
02:12
The real powerful person is wearing
a hoodie with a T-shirt and jeans.
a hoodie with a T-shirt and jeans.
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Moćna osoba nosi majicu s kapuljačom,
majicu i traperice.
majicu i traperice.
02:17
It's easy to think of
the physical aspects of the hoodie.
the physical aspects of the hoodie.
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Lako je misliti o fizičkim aspektima
majice s kapuljačom.
majice s kapuljačom.
02:21
You can immediately think
of wearing the hood up,
of wearing the hood up,
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Možete odmah pomisliti
na to kako ste navukli kapuljaču
na to kako ste navukli kapuljaču
02:23
and you feel this warmth
and this protection,
and this protection,
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i osjećate njenu toplinu i zaštitu,
02:26
but at the same time,
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ali u isto vrijeme,
02:27
you can also feel
the psychological aspects of it.
the psychological aspects of it.
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osjećate i psihološke aspekte.
02:30
I mean, think of donning a hoodie,
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Zamislite da je navučete
i odjednom se osjećate zaštićenije,
02:32
all of a sudden, you feel more protected,
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02:34
you feel that you are in your own shell.
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osjećate da imate svoj oklop.
02:41
We know very well what the hoodie
has come to signify
has come to signify
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Znamo što je majica s kapuljačom
počela simbolizirati
počela simbolizirati
02:45
in the past few years
in the United States.
in the United States.
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u posljednjih nekoliko godina u SAD-u.
02:47
When Trayvon Martin, a 17-year-old
African-American kid,
African-American kid,
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Kada je Trayvon Martin,
afroamerički 17-ogodišnjak,
afroamerički 17-ogodišnjak,
02:52
was shot by a neighborhood vigilante,
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upucan od strane člana dobrovoljnog
udruženja za građansku zaštitu,
udruženja za građansku zaštitu,
02:55
and Million Hoodie Marches happened
all over the United States,
all over the United States,
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došlo je do marševa
Million Hoodie diljem SAD-a,
Million Hoodie diljem SAD-a,
03:00
in which people wore hoodies
with the hood up
with the hood up
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gdje su ljudi nosili
majice s kapuljačama na glavi
majice s kapuljačama na glavi
03:03
and marched in the streets
against this kind of prejudice.
against this kind of prejudice.
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i marširali ulicama
protiv takvih predrasuda.
protiv takvih predrasuda.
03:07
It doesn't happen that often
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Ne događa se često
03:09
for a garment to have
so much symbolism and history
so much symbolism and history
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da odjevni predmet ima
toliko simbolike i povijesti
toliko simbolike i povijesti
03:13
and that encompasses
so many different universes
so many different universes
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i da obuhvaća toliko različitih svjetova,
03:17
as the hoodie.
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kao majica s kapuljačom.
03:18
So, like all garments,
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Tako, kao svi odjevni predmeti,
03:20
especially all truly utilitarian garments,
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osobito vrlo uporabljivi odjevni predmeti,
03:23
it is very basic in its design.
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vrlo je jednostavna u dizajnu.
03:25
But at the same time,
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Ali, u isto vrijeme,
03:26
it has a whole universe
of possibilities attached.
of possibilities attached.
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u sebi sadrži čitav univerzum mogućnosti.
ABOUT THE SPEAKER
Paola Antonelli - Design curatorPaola Antonelli is on a mission to introduce -- and explain -- design to the world. With her shows at New York's Museum of Modern Art, she celebrates design's presence in every part of life.
Why you should listen
Since she stepped back from practicing architecture in order to focus on writing about design, teaching and curating gallery exhibitions, Italian native Paola Antonelli has become a force to be reckoned with in the design world. Working at the Museum of Modern Art in New York since 1994, she is senior curator of the gallery's Architecture and Design department and, as of 2012, the museum's first ever director of research and development. Antonelli has worked on shows such as "Humble Masterpieces," which celebrated traditionally unheralded design icons such as the paperclip; "Design and the Elastic Mind," considering the relationship of design and technology, and "Talk to Me ," which looked at design and the communication of people and objects.
Ever mindful that the majority of visitors to MOMA are attracted by artists such as Picasso and Matisse, Antonelli works to ensure that if they do stumble across a design-related show, they'll be both entertained and enlightened. In 2012, she led a move to acquire 14 video games for the museum's permanent collection.
Paola Antonelli | Speaker | TED.com