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Paola Antonelli: The 3,000-year history of the hoodie
Paola Antonelli: A história de 3000 anos do capuz
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O capuz é muito mais do que uma camisola confortável. A curadora de "design" Paola Antonelli conta-nos a sua história.
Paola Antonelli - Design curator
Paola Antonelli is on a mission to introduce -- and explain -- design to the world. With her shows at New York's Museum of Modern Art, she celebrates design's presence in every part of life. Full bio
Paola Antonelli is on a mission to introduce -- and explain -- design to the world. With her shows at New York's Museum of Modern Art, she celebrates design's presence in every part of life. Full bio
Double-click the English transcript below to play the video.
00:12
The hoodie is an amazing object.
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O capuz é um objeto fantástico.
00:14
It's one of those timeless objects
that we hardly think of,
that we hardly think of,
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É um daqueles objetos intemporais
em que não pensamos muito,
em que não pensamos muito,
00:19
because they work so well
that they're part of our lives.
that they're part of our lives.
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porque se integra muito bem
no nosso quotidiano.
no nosso quotidiano.
00:22
We call them "humble masterpieces."
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Chamamos-lhe "modesta obra de arte".
00:24
[Small thing.]
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[Algo pequeno.]
00:25
[Big idea.]
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[Grande ideia.]
00:28
[Paola Antonelli on
the Hoodie]
the Hoodie]
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[Paula Antonelli fala sobre o capuz]
00:30
The hoodie has been --
even if it was not called so --
even if it was not called so --
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Embora não seja referenciado como tal,
00:34
it's been an icon throughout history
for good and for bad reasons.
for good and for bad reasons.
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o capuz tem sido um ícone ao longo
da história por boas e más razões.
da história por boas e más razões.
00:38
The earliest ones that we can trace
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As primeiras que conseguimos encontrar
00:41
are from ancient Greece and ancient Rome.
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surgem na Grécia e em Roma antigas.
00:43
The Middle Ages, you see a lot of monks
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Na Idade Média, encontram-se muitos monges
00:45
that were wearing garments
that were cape-like, with hoods attached,
that were cape-like, with hoods attached,
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que usam vestimentas
estilo capas, com capuz,
estilo capas, com capuz,
00:49
so therefore, "hoodies."
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daí a ênfase no capuz.
00:51
Ladies in the 17th century
would wear hoodies
would wear hoodies
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As senhoras do século XVII usavam capuz
00:53
to kind of hide themselves
when they were going to meet their lovers.
when they were going to meet their lovers.
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para se esconderem
quando iam ter com os seus amantes.
quando iam ter com os seus amantes.
00:57
And then, of course,
there's the legend, there's fantasy.
there's the legend, there's fantasy.
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Mas também existem
as lendas, a fantasia.
as lendas, a fantasia.
01:01
There's the image of the hoodie
connected to the grim reaper.
connected to the grim reaper.
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Há a imagem do Anjo da Morte a usar capuz.
Há a imagem do carrasco a usar capuz.
01:04
There's the image of the hoodie
connected to the executioner.
connected to the executioner.
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01:07
So there's the dark side of the hoodie.
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Portanto, há um lado sombrio do capuz.
01:10
The modern incarnation of the hoodie --
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Enquanto que nos tempos modernos,
01:13
a garment that's made
usually of cotton jersey,
usually of cotton jersey,
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o capuz faz parte de peças de roupa,
01:16
that has a hood attached
with a drawstring;
with a drawstring;
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muitas vezes feito de algodão,
e a elas ligado por um cordão.
e a elas ligado por um cordão.
01:19
sometimes it has a marsupial pocket --
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Por vezes, essas roupas
têm um bolso marsupial.
têm um bolso marsupial.
01:22
was introduced in the 1930s
by Knickerbocker Knitting Company.
by Knickerbocker Knitting Company.
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Foi introduzido nos anos 30
pela Knickerbocker Knitting Company.
pela Knickerbocker Knitting Company.
01:26
Now it's called Champion.
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Agora, a empresa chama-se Champion.
01:28
It was meant to keep athletes warm.
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A intenção era aquecer os atletas.
01:31
Of course, though, it was
such a functional, comfortable garment
such a functional, comfortable garment
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Mas é claro que, como era
uma roupa prática e confortável,
uma roupa prática e confortável,
01:35
that it was very rapidly adopted
by workmen everywhere.
by workmen everywhere.
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foi adotado rapidamente
por trabalhadores em todo o lado.
por trabalhadores em todo o lado.
01:39
And then, around the 1980s,
it also gets adopted
it also gets adopted
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Depois, por volta dos anos 80, foi adotado
pelos "hip-hop" e pelos jovens
pelos "hip-hop" e pelos jovens
01:43
by hip-hop and B-boys, skateboarders,
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que praticavam "breakdance"
e que andavam de "skate",
e que andavam de "skate",
fazendo com que o capuz ganhasse
uma imagem de cultura dos jovens da rua.
uma imagem de cultura dos jovens da rua.
01:47
and it takes on this kind of
youth street culture.
youth street culture.
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01:50
It was, at the same time,
super-comfortable,
super-comfortable,
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Ao mesmo tempo, era muito confortável
01:52
perfect for the streets
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era perfeito para andar na rua,
01:53
and also had that added value of anonymity
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assim como tinha o valor
adicional do anonimato
adicional do anonimato
01:57
when you needed it.
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quando fosse necessário.
01:58
And then we have Mark Zuckerberg,
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Depois, temos Mark Zuckerberg,
02:00
who defies convention
of respectable attire for businesspeople.
of respectable attire for businesspeople.
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que desafia o padrão
de trajes formais para empresários.
de trajes formais para empresários.
02:04
But interestingly, it's also a way to show
how power has changed.
how power has changed.
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É interessante como isto também mostra
a mudança da imagem do poder.
a mudança da imagem do poder.
Agora, os que usam fato completo
podem ser os guarda-costas.
podem ser os guarda-costas.
02:09
If you're wearing a two-piece suit,
you might be the bodyguard.
you might be the bodyguard.
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02:12
The real powerful person is wearing
a hoodie with a T-shirt and jeans.
a hoodie with a T-shirt and jeans.
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As pessoas de poder usam um capuz
com uma "T-shirt" e "jeans".
com uma "T-shirt" e "jeans".
02:17
It's easy to think of
the physical aspects of the hoodie.
the physical aspects of the hoodie.
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Facilmente pensamos
nos aspetos físicos do capuz.
nos aspetos físicos do capuz.
02:21
You can immediately think
of wearing the hood up,
of wearing the hood up,
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Podemos pensar em usar o capuz
02:23
and you feel this warmth
and this protection,
and this protection,
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e sentirmos aquele calor e proteção
02:26
but at the same time,
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mas, ao mesmo tempo,
02:27
you can also feel
the psychological aspects of it.
the psychological aspects of it.
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também conseguimos
sentir os aspetos psicológicos.
sentir os aspetos psicológicos.
02:30
I mean, think of donning a hoodie,
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Basta usarmos um capuz
02:32
all of a sudden, you feel more protected,
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para nos sentirmos mais protegidos,
02:34
you feel that you are in your own shell.
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para sentir que estamos
no nosso próprio espaço.
no nosso próprio espaço.
02:41
We know very well what the hoodie
has come to signify
has come to signify
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Sabemos muito bem
o significado que o capuz tem ganho
o significado que o capuz tem ganho
02:45
in the past few years
in the United States.
in the United States.
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nestes últimos anos, nos EUA.
02:47
When Trayvon Martin, a 17-year-old
African-American kid,
African-American kid,
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Quando Trayvon Martin,
um rapaz afro-americano de 17 anos,
um rapaz afro-americano de 17 anos,
02:52
was shot by a neighborhood vigilante,
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foi alvejado por um vigilante do bairro,
02:55
and Million Hoodie Marches happened
all over the United States,
all over the United States,
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houve marchas de um milhão de capuzes
por todos os EUA,
por todos os EUA,
nas quais as pessoas usaram capuz
03:00
in which people wore hoodies
with the hood up
with the hood up
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03:03
and marched in the streets
against this kind of prejudice.
against this kind of prejudice.
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e desfilaram pelas ruas
contra este tipo de preconceito.
contra este tipo de preconceito.
03:07
It doesn't happen that often
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Não é muito comum uma peça de roupa
03:09
for a garment to have
so much symbolism and history
so much symbolism and history
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ter tanto simbolismo e história,
03:13
and that encompasses
so many different universes
so many different universes
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e abranger tantas realidades diferentes
03:17
as the hoodie.
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como o capuz.
03:18
So, like all garments,
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Então, como todas as roupas,
03:20
especially all truly utilitarian garments,
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especialmente as mesmo práticas,
o capuz tem um "design" muito básico.
03:23
it is very basic in its design.
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Mas, ao mesmo tempo,
03:25
But at the same time,
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03:26
it has a whole universe
of possibilities attached.
of possibilities attached.
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contém um mundo inteiro
cheio de possibilidades.
cheio de possibilidades.
ABOUT THE SPEAKER
Paola Antonelli - Design curatorPaola Antonelli is on a mission to introduce -- and explain -- design to the world. With her shows at New York's Museum of Modern Art, she celebrates design's presence in every part of life.
Why you should listen
Since she stepped back from practicing architecture in order to focus on writing about design, teaching and curating gallery exhibitions, Italian native Paola Antonelli has become a force to be reckoned with in the design world. Working at the Museum of Modern Art in New York since 1994, she is senior curator of the gallery's Architecture and Design department and, as of 2012, the museum's first ever director of research and development. Antonelli has worked on shows such as "Humble Masterpieces," which celebrated traditionally unheralded design icons such as the paperclip; "Design and the Elastic Mind," considering the relationship of design and technology, and "Talk to Me ," which looked at design and the communication of people and objects.
Ever mindful that the majority of visitors to MOMA are attracted by artists such as Picasso and Matisse, Antonelli works to ensure that if they do stumble across a design-related show, they'll be both entertained and enlightened. In 2012, she led a move to acquire 14 video games for the museum's permanent collection.
Paola Antonelli | Speaker | TED.com