Small Thing Big Idea
Paola Antonelli: The 3,000-year history of the hoodie
Paola Antonelli: 3000 lat historii bluzy z kapturem
Filmed:
Readability: 4.7
662,618 views
Bluza z kapturem to coś więcej niż tylko wygodna bluza. Projektantka Paola Antonelli opowiada o jej historii.
Paola Antonelli - Design curator
Paola Antonelli is on a mission to introduce -- and explain -- design to the world. With her shows at New York's Museum of Modern Art, she celebrates design's presence in every part of life. Full bio
Paola Antonelli is on a mission to introduce -- and explain -- design to the world. With her shows at New York's Museum of Modern Art, she celebrates design's presence in every part of life. Full bio
Double-click the English transcript below to play the video.
00:12
The hoodie is an amazing object.
0
389
2350
Bluza z kapturem jest niesamowita.
To jedna z ponadczasowych rzeczy,
nad którymi się nie zastanawiamy,
nad którymi się nie zastanawiamy,
00:14
It's one of those timeless objects
that we hardly think of,
that we hardly think of,
1
2764
4904
00:19
because they work so well
that they're part of our lives.
that they're part of our lives.
2
7693
2655
bo tak dobrze nam służą,
że stały się częścią życia.
że stały się częścią życia.
00:22
We call them "humble masterpieces."
3
10373
1970
Nazywamy je "skromnymi arcydziełami".
00:24
[Small thing.]
4
12368
1220
[Mała rzecz.]
00:25
[Big idea.]
5
13623
1282
[Wielki pomysł.]
00:28
[Paola Antonelli on
the Hoodie]
the Hoodie]
6
16070
2531
[Paola Antonelli o bluzie z kapturem]
00:30
The hoodie has been --
even if it was not called so --
even if it was not called so --
7
18722
3254
Bluza z kapturem,
nawet jeśli tak się nie nazywała,
nawet jeśli tak się nie nazywała,
00:34
it's been an icon throughout history
for good and for bad reasons.
for good and for bad reasons.
8
22000
3842
był ikoną na przestrzeni dziejów,
z dobrych i złych powodów.
z dobrych i złych powodów.
00:38
The earliest ones that we can trace
9
26286
2795
Najwcześniejsze, jakie odkryliśmy,
00:41
are from ancient Greece and ancient Rome.
10
29105
2579
pochodzą ze starożytnej Grecji i Rzymu.
00:43
The Middle Ages, you see a lot of monks
11
31708
2012
W średniowieczu wielu mnichów
00:45
that were wearing garments
that were cape-like, with hoods attached,
that were cape-like, with hoods attached,
12
33744
3956
nosiło stroje przypominające
pelerynę z kapturem (ang. hood),
pelerynę z kapturem (ang. hood),
00:49
so therefore, "hoodies."
13
37724
1293
stąd "hoodie".
00:51
Ladies in the 17th century
would wear hoodies
would wear hoodies
14
39041
2910
Damy w XVII wieku
nosiły narzutki z kapturem,
nosiły narzutki z kapturem,
00:53
to kind of hide themselves
when they were going to meet their lovers.
when they were going to meet their lovers.
15
41975
3861
żeby nie rzucać się w oczy
w drodze na schadzkę.
w drodze na schadzkę.
00:57
And then, of course,
there's the legend, there's fantasy.
there's the legend, there's fantasy.
16
45860
3178
Są również legendy i wyobrażenia.
01:01
There's the image of the hoodie
connected to the grim reaper.
connected to the grim reaper.
17
49062
2971
Obraz kaptura związany z kostuchą.
01:04
There's the image of the hoodie
connected to the executioner.
connected to the executioner.
18
52057
3063
Wyobrażenie związane z katem.
01:07
So there's the dark side of the hoodie.
19
55144
2728
To ciemna strona bluzy z kapturem.
01:10
The modern incarnation of the hoodie --
20
58491
2936
Współczesną wersję bluzy z kapturem,
01:13
a garment that's made
usually of cotton jersey,
usually of cotton jersey,
21
61451
2946
czyli ubrania wykonanego zwykle
z dżerseju bawełnianego
z dżerseju bawełnianego
01:16
that has a hood attached
with a drawstring;
with a drawstring;
22
64421
3020
z doczepionym kapturem ze sznurkiem,
01:19
sometimes it has a marsupial pocket --
23
67465
2557
czasami z kieszenią na brzuchu,
01:22
was introduced in the 1930s
by Knickerbocker Knitting Company.
by Knickerbocker Knitting Company.
24
70046
4279
wymyśliła około 1930 roku
firma Knickerbocker Knitting Company.
firma Knickerbocker Knitting Company.
01:26
Now it's called Champion.
25
74349
1894
Teraz nosi nazwę Champion.
01:28
It was meant to keep athletes warm.
26
76267
2168
Miała ogrzewać sportowców.
01:31
Of course, though, it was
such a functional, comfortable garment
such a functional, comfortable garment
27
79448
4096
Tak praktyczna i wygodna część garderoby
01:35
that it was very rapidly adopted
by workmen everywhere.
by workmen everywhere.
28
83568
4062
stała się szybko popularna
wśród robotników.
wśród robotników.
01:39
And then, around the 1980s,
it also gets adopted
it also gets adopted
29
87654
4069
Około 1980 roku rozprzestrzeniła się
01:43
by hip-hop and B-boys, skateboarders,
30
91747
3338
wśród fanów hip-hopu,
breakdance i skejtowców
breakdance i skejtowców
01:47
and it takes on this kind of
youth street culture.
youth street culture.
31
95109
3113
i zawojowała uliczną kulturę młodzieżową.
01:50
It was, at the same time,
super-comfortable,
super-comfortable,
32
98246
2144
Była niesamowicie wygodna,
01:52
perfect for the streets
33
100414
1151
pasowała na ulicę,
01:53
and also had that added value of anonymity
34
101589
3528
a także dodawała anonimowości
01:57
when you needed it.
35
105141
1243
w razie potrzeby.
01:58
And then we have Mark Zuckerberg,
36
106408
1654
Następnie mamy Marka Zuckerberga,
02:00
who defies convention
of respectable attire for businesspeople.
of respectable attire for businesspeople.
37
108086
4852
który neguje poważny wizerunek
typowy dla ludzi biznesu.
typowy dla ludzi biznesu.
02:04
But interestingly, it's also a way to show
how power has changed.
how power has changed.
38
112962
4400
Co ciekawe, to też sposób pokazania,
jak zmieniła się władza.
jak zmieniła się władza.
02:09
If you're wearing a two-piece suit,
you might be the bodyguard.
you might be the bodyguard.
39
117386
2629
Jeśli nosisz garnitur,
możesz być ochroniarzem.
możesz być ochroniarzem.
02:12
The real powerful person is wearing
a hoodie with a T-shirt and jeans.
a hoodie with a T-shirt and jeans.
40
120040
4697
Prawdziwa osoba u władzy nosi
bluzę z kapturem, T-shirt oraz dżinsy.
bluzę z kapturem, T-shirt oraz dżinsy.
02:17
It's easy to think of
the physical aspects of the hoodie.
the physical aspects of the hoodie.
41
125531
3462
Łatwo jest wymienić
fizyczne aspekty bluzy z kapturem.
fizyczne aspekty bluzy z kapturem.
02:21
You can immediately think
of wearing the hood up,
of wearing the hood up,
42
129017
2801
Od razu przychodzi na myśl
zakładanie kaptura na głowę
zakładanie kaptura na głowę
02:23
and you feel this warmth
and this protection,
and this protection,
43
131842
2685
i uczucie ciepła, bezpieczeństwa,
02:26
but at the same time,
44
134551
1399
a jednocześnie
02:27
you can also feel
the psychological aspects of it.
the psychological aspects of it.
45
135974
2869
czujemy psychologiczny aspekt.
02:30
I mean, think of donning a hoodie,
46
138867
1641
Kiedy zakładamy bluzę z kapturem,
02:32
all of a sudden, you feel more protected,
47
140532
2423
nagle czujemy się bezpieczniej,
02:34
you feel that you are in your own shell.
48
142979
4748
czujemy się jak we własnej skorupie.
02:41
We know very well what the hoodie
has come to signify
has come to signify
49
149298
3713
Wiadomo, z czym kojarzy się
bluza z kapturem
bluza z kapturem
02:45
in the past few years
in the United States.
in the United States.
50
153035
2589
w ciągu ostatnich kilku lat w USA.
02:47
When Trayvon Martin, a 17-year-old
African-American kid,
African-American kid,
51
155648
4543
Kiedy Trayvon Martin,
afroamerykański 17-latek,
afroamerykański 17-latek,
02:52
was shot by a neighborhood vigilante,
52
160215
3672
został zastrzelony
przez lokalnego mściciela,
przez lokalnego mściciela,
02:55
and Million Hoodie Marches happened
all over the United States,
all over the United States,
53
163911
4149
wielomilionowe marsze w bluzach
z kapturem odbyły się wszędzie w USA.
z kapturem odbyły się wszędzie w USA.
03:00
in which people wore hoodies
with the hood up
with the hood up
54
168084
3088
Uczestniczy marszu byli ubrani
w bluzę z kapturem na głowie
w bluzę z kapturem na głowie
03:03
and marched in the streets
against this kind of prejudice.
against this kind of prejudice.
55
171196
3149
i przeszli po ulicach,
żeby walczyć z uprzedzeniami.
żeby walczyć z uprzedzeniami.
03:07
It doesn't happen that often
56
175081
1905
Nieczęsto się zdarza,
03:09
for a garment to have
so much symbolism and history
so much symbolism and history
57
177010
4801
żeby część garderoby miała
taki symbolizm i historię
taki symbolizm i historię
03:13
and that encompasses
so many different universes
so many different universes
58
181835
3201
i była tak uniwersalna
03:17
as the hoodie.
59
185060
1572
jak bluza z kapturem.
03:18
So, like all garments,
60
186656
1531
Tak jak inne części garderoby,
03:20
especially all truly utilitarian garments,
61
188211
2998
zwłaszcza te praktyczne,
03:23
it is very basic in its design.
62
191233
2393
jej wzór jest bardzo prosty.
03:25
But at the same time,
63
193650
1296
Jednocześnie
03:26
it has a whole universe
of possibilities attached.
of possibilities attached.
64
194970
3650
oferuje całe spektrum możliwości.
ABOUT THE SPEAKER
Paola Antonelli - Design curatorPaola Antonelli is on a mission to introduce -- and explain -- design to the world. With her shows at New York's Museum of Modern Art, she celebrates design's presence in every part of life.
Why you should listen
Since she stepped back from practicing architecture in order to focus on writing about design, teaching and curating gallery exhibitions, Italian native Paola Antonelli has become a force to be reckoned with in the design world. Working at the Museum of Modern Art in New York since 1994, she is senior curator of the gallery's Architecture and Design department and, as of 2012, the museum's first ever director of research and development. Antonelli has worked on shows such as "Humble Masterpieces," which celebrated traditionally unheralded design icons such as the paperclip; "Design and the Elastic Mind," considering the relationship of design and technology, and "Talk to Me ," which looked at design and the communication of people and objects.
Ever mindful that the majority of visitors to MOMA are attracted by artists such as Picasso and Matisse, Antonelli works to ensure that if they do stumble across a design-related show, they'll be both entertained and enlightened. In 2012, she led a move to acquire 14 video games for the museum's permanent collection.
Paola Antonelli | Speaker | TED.com