ABOUT THE SPEAKER
Paola Antonelli - Design curator
Paola Antonelli is on a mission to introduce -- and explain -- design to the world. With her shows at New York's Museum of Modern Art, she celebrates design's presence in every part of life.

Why you should listen

Since she stepped back from practicing architecture in order to focus on writing about design, teaching and curating gallery exhibitions, Italian native Paola Antonelli has become a force to be reckoned with in the design world. Working at the Museum of Modern Art in New York since 1994, she is senior curator of the gallery's Architecture and Design department and, as of 2012, the museum's first ever director of research and development. Antonelli has worked on shows such as "Humble Masterpieces," which celebrated traditionally unheralded design icons such as the paperclip; "Design and the Elastic Mind," considering the relationship of design and technology, and "Talk to Me ," which looked at design and the communication of people and objects.

Ever mindful that the majority of visitors to MOMA are attracted by artists such as Picasso and Matisse, Antonelli works to ensure that if they do stumble across a design-related show, they'll be both entertained and enlightened. In 2012, she led a move to acquire 14 video games for the museum's permanent collection.

More profile about the speaker
Paola Antonelli | Speaker | TED.com
Small Thing Big Idea

Paola Antonelli: The 3,000-year history of the hoodie

Paola Antonelli: A história de 3 mil anos do moletom com capuz

Filmed:
662,618 views

O moletom com capuz é muito mais do que um simples moletom confortável. A curadora de design Paola Antonelli nos acompanha pela história dessa peça de vestuário.
- Design curator
Paola Antonelli is on a mission to introduce -- and explain -- design to the world. With her shows at New York's Museum of Modern Art, she celebrates design's presence in every part of life. Full bio

Double-click the English transcript below to play the video.

00:12
The hoodie is an amazing object.
0
389
2350
O moletom com capuz é uma peça incrível.
00:14
It's one of those timeless objects
that we hardly think of,
1
2764
4904
É uma daquelas coisas atemporais
nas quais dificilmente pensamos,
00:19
because they work so well
that they're part of our lives.
2
7693
2655
pois funcionam tão bem
que fazem parte de nossa vida.
00:22
We call them "humble masterpieces."
3
10373
1970
São chamadas de "obras-primas humildes".
00:24
[Small thing.]
4
12368
1220
[Pequena coisa.]
[Grande ideia.]
00:25
[Big idea.]
5
13623
1282
00:28
[Paola Antonelli on
the Hoodie]
6
16070
2531
[Paola Antonelli em "O Moletom com Capuz"]
00:30
The hoodie has been --
even if it was not called so --
7
18722
3254
O moletom com capuz,
mesmo que não fosse chamado assim,
00:34
it's been an icon throughout history
for good and for bad reasons.
8
22000
3842
tem sido um ícone ao longo da história
por razões boas e ruins.
00:38
The earliest ones that we can trace
9
26286
2795
Os primeiros que podemos reconhecer
00:41
are from ancient Greece and ancient Rome.
10
29105
2579
são da Grécia e da Roma antigas.
00:43
The Middle Ages, you see a lot of monks
11
31708
2012
Na Idade Média, vemos muitos monges
00:45
that were wearing garments
that were cape-like, with hoods attached,
12
33744
3956
vestindo peças de roupa
semelhantes a capas com capuzes:
os "moletons com capuz".
00:49
so therefore, "hoodies."
13
37724
1293
00:51
Ladies in the 17th century
would wear hoodies
14
39041
2910
As senhoras do século 17
usavam moletons com capuz
para se encobrir
ao encontrar seus amados.
00:53
to kind of hide themselves
when they were going to meet their lovers.
15
41975
3861
Então, é claro, há a lenda, a fantasia.
00:57
And then, of course,
there's the legend, there's fantasy.
16
45860
3178
01:01
There's the image of the hoodie
connected to the grim reaper.
17
49062
2971
Há a imagem do moletom
com capuz ligada ao ceifador.
01:04
There's the image of the hoodie
connected to the executioner.
18
52057
3063
Há a imagem do moletom
com capuz ligada ao carrasco.
Há, então, o lado negro
do moletom com capuz.
01:07
So there's the dark side of the hoodie.
19
55144
2728
01:10
The modern incarnation of the hoodie --
20
58491
2936
A encarnação moderna do moletom com capuz,
01:13
a garment that's made
usually of cotton jersey,
21
61451
2946
uma peça de vestuário feita,
geralmente, de jérsei de algodão,
01:16
that has a hood attached
with a drawstring;
22
64421
3020
com um capuz preso por um cordão;
01:19
sometimes it has a marsupial pocket --
23
67465
2557
às vezes, com um bolso marsupial,
foi introduzido na década de 1930
pela Knickerbocker Knitting Company.
01:22
was introduced in the 1930s
by Knickerbocker Knitting Company.
24
70046
4279
Agora é chamada de Champion.
01:26
Now it's called Champion.
25
74349
1894
01:28
It was meant to keep athletes warm.
26
76267
2168
Seu objetivo era manter
os atletas aquecidos.
01:31
Of course, though, it was
such a functional, comfortable garment
27
79448
4096
Era uma peça de roupa
tão funcional e confortável
que foi adotada, muito rapidamente,
por trabalhadores em toda parte.
01:35
that it was very rapidly adopted
by workmen everywhere.
28
83568
4062
Então, por volta da década de 1980,
01:39
And then, around the 1980s,
it also gets adopted
29
87654
4069
também é adotada pelo hip-hop
e pelos "b-boys", esqueitistas,
01:43
by hip-hop and B-boys, skateboarders,
30
91747
3338
e assume esse tipo
de cultura jovem de rua.
01:47
and it takes on this kind of
youth street culture.
31
95109
3113
Era, ao mesmo tempo, superconfortável,
01:50
It was, at the same time,
super-comfortable,
32
98246
2144
perfeita para as ruas,
01:52
perfect for the streets
33
100414
1151
01:53
and also had that added value of anonymity
34
101589
3528
e também tinha esse valor agregado
do anonimato, quando necessário.
01:57
when you needed it.
35
105141
1243
E, então, temos Mark Zuckerberg,
01:58
And then we have Mark Zuckerberg,
36
106408
1654
que desafia a convenção
de traje respeitável para empresários.
02:00
who defies convention
of respectable attire for businesspeople.
37
108086
4852
02:04
But interestingly, it's also a way to show
how power has changed.
38
112962
4400
Mas, curiosamente, também é uma forma
de mostrar como o poder mudou.
Ao usar terno de duas peças,
você pode ser o guarda-costas.
02:09
If you're wearing a two-piece suit,
you might be the bodyguard.
39
117386
2629
02:12
The real powerful person is wearing
a hoodie with a T-shirt and jeans.
40
120040
4697
A pessoa verdadeiramente poderosa
usa moletom com capuz, camiseta e jeans.
02:17
It's easy to think of
the physical aspects of the hoodie.
41
125531
3462
É fácil pensar nos aspectos físicos
do moletom com capuz.
02:21
You can immediately think
of wearing the hood up,
42
129017
2801
Podemos pensar, imediatamente,
em vestir o capuz,
02:23
and you feel this warmth
and this protection,
43
131842
2685
e sentir o calor e a proteção,
mas, ao mesmo tempo,
02:26
but at the same time,
44
134551
1399
02:27
you can also feel
the psychological aspects of it.
45
135974
2869
também podemos sentir
os aspectos psicológicos disso.
02:30
I mean, think of donning a hoodie,
46
138867
1641
Pensem em vestir um capuz;
de repente, nós nos sentimos
mais protegidos;
02:32
all of a sudden, you feel more protected,
47
140532
2423
sentimos que estamos
em nossa própria concha.
02:34
you feel that you are in your own shell.
48
142979
4748
02:41
We know very well what the hoodie
has come to signify
49
149298
3713
Sabemos muito bem que o moletom
com capuz veio para denotar importância
02:45
in the past few years
in the United States.
50
153035
2589
nos últimos anos, nos Estados Unidos,
quando Trayvon Martin, um jovem
afro-americano de 17 anos,
02:47
When Trayvon Martin, a 17-year-old
African-American kid,
51
155648
4543
02:52
was shot by a neighborhood vigilante,
52
160215
3672
foi baleado por um justiceiro do bairro,
02:55
and Million Hoodie Marches happened
all over the United States,
53
163911
4149
e ocorreram as Million Hoodie Marches
em todo os Estados Unidos,
03:00
in which people wore hoodies
with the hood up
54
168084
3088
em que as pessoas usaram
moletons com o capuz para cima
03:03
and marched in the streets
against this kind of prejudice.
55
171196
3149
e marcharam nas ruas
contra esse tipo de preconceito.
03:07
It doesn't happen that often
56
175081
1905
Não acontece com frequência
que uma peça de roupa
tenha tanto simbolismo e história
03:09
for a garment to have
so much symbolism and history
57
177010
4801
e inclua tantos universos diferentes,
03:13
and that encompasses
so many different universes
58
181835
3201
como o moletom com capuz.
03:17
as the hoodie.
59
185060
1572
Como todas as peças de roupa,
03:18
So, like all garments,
60
186656
1531
especialmente todas aquelas
verdadeiramente funcionais,
03:20
especially all truly utilitarian garments,
61
188211
2998
03:23
it is very basic in its design.
62
191233
2393
é muito básico em seu design;
03:25
But at the same time,
63
193650
1296
mas, ao mesmo tempo,
tem todo um universo
de possibilidades associado.
03:26
it has a whole universe
of possibilities attached.
64
194970
3650
Translated by Maurício Kakuei Tanaka
Reviewed by Maricene Crus

▲Back to top

ABOUT THE SPEAKER
Paola Antonelli - Design curator
Paola Antonelli is on a mission to introduce -- and explain -- design to the world. With her shows at New York's Museum of Modern Art, she celebrates design's presence in every part of life.

Why you should listen

Since she stepped back from practicing architecture in order to focus on writing about design, teaching and curating gallery exhibitions, Italian native Paola Antonelli has become a force to be reckoned with in the design world. Working at the Museum of Modern Art in New York since 1994, she is senior curator of the gallery's Architecture and Design department and, as of 2012, the museum's first ever director of research and development. Antonelli has worked on shows such as "Humble Masterpieces," which celebrated traditionally unheralded design icons such as the paperclip; "Design and the Elastic Mind," considering the relationship of design and technology, and "Talk to Me ," which looked at design and the communication of people and objects.

Ever mindful that the majority of visitors to MOMA are attracted by artists such as Picasso and Matisse, Antonelli works to ensure that if they do stumble across a design-related show, they'll be both entertained and enlightened. In 2012, she led a move to acquire 14 video games for the museum's permanent collection.

More profile about the speaker
Paola Antonelli | Speaker | TED.com