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Paola Antonelli: The 3,000-year history of the hoodie
Paola Antoneli (Paola Antonelli): Istorija duksa sa kapuljačom duga 3000 godina
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Duks sa kapuljačom je mnogo više od običnog udobnog džempera. Stručnjakinja za dizajn, Paola Antoneli, vodi nas kroz njegovu istoriju.
Paola Antonelli - Design curator
Paola Antonelli is on a mission to introduce -- and explain -- design to the world. With her shows at New York's Museum of Modern Art, she celebrates design's presence in every part of life. Full bio
Paola Antonelli is on a mission to introduce -- and explain -- design to the world. With her shows at New York's Museum of Modern Art, she celebrates design's presence in every part of life. Full bio
Double-click the English transcript below to play the video.
00:12
The hoodie is an amazing object.
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Duks sa kapuljačom je zadivljujuć predmet.
00:14
It's one of those timeless objects
that we hardly think of,
that we hardly think of,
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To je jedan od onih bezvremenih predmeta
na koji retko kad pomislimo,
na koji retko kad pomislimo,
00:19
because they work so well
that they're part of our lives.
that they're part of our lives.
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jer funkcionišu veoma dobro
kao sastavni deo naših života.
kao sastavni deo naših života.
00:22
We call them "humble masterpieces."
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Nazivamo ih „skromnim remek-delima“.
00:24
[Small thing.]
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[Mala stvar.]
00:25
[Big idea.]
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[Velika ideja.]
00:28
[Paola Antonelli on
the Hoodie]
the Hoodie]
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[Paola Antoneli o duksu sa kapuljačom]
00:30
The hoodie has been --
even if it was not called so --
even if it was not called so --
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Duks sa kapuljačom je predstavljao,
iako nije tako nazvan,
iako nije tako nazvan,
00:34
it's been an icon throughout history
for good and for bad reasons.
for good and for bad reasons.
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ikonu tokom istorije,
iz dobrih i loših razloga.
iz dobrih i loših razloga.
00:38
The earliest ones that we can trace
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Najraniji za koji znamo
00:41
are from ancient Greece and ancient Rome.
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potiče iz antičke Grčke i antičkog Rima.
00:43
The Middle Ages, you see a lot of monks
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Tokom srednjeg veka vidimo dosta monaha
00:45
that were wearing garments
that were cape-like, with hoods attached,
that were cape-like, with hoods attached,
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koji su nosili delove odeće poput plašta
sa prišivenim kapuljačama,
sa prišivenim kapuljačama,
te odatle i „duksevi sa kapuljačom“.
00:49
so therefore, "hoodies."
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00:51
Ladies in the 17th century
would wear hoodies
would wear hoodies
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Dame su u 17.veku
nosile duks sa kapuljačom
nosile duks sa kapuljačom
00:53
to kind of hide themselves
when they were going to meet their lovers.
when they were going to meet their lovers.
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kao način da se sakriju kada bi se
nalazile sa svojim ljubavnicima.
nalazile sa svojim ljubavnicima.
00:57
And then, of course,
there's the legend, there's fantasy.
there's the legend, there's fantasy.
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A, naravno, tu je i legenda i mašta.
01:01
There's the image of the hoodie
connected to the grim reaper.
connected to the grim reaper.
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Postoji i prikaz duksa sa kapuljačom
koji je povezan sa Smrću.
koji je povezan sa Smrću.
01:04
There's the image of the hoodie
connected to the executioner.
connected to the executioner.
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Postoji i prikaz duksa sa kapuljačom
koji je povezan sa dželatom.
koji je povezan sa dželatom.
01:07
So there's the dark side of the hoodie.
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Dakle, postoji i tamna strana
duksa sa kapuljačom.
duksa sa kapuljačom.
01:10
The modern incarnation of the hoodie --
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Moderno oličenje duksa sa kapuljačom -
01:13
a garment that's made
usually of cotton jersey,
usually of cotton jersey,
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komada odeće koji je obično napravljen
od pamučnog džempera
od pamučnog džempera
01:16
that has a hood attached
with a drawstring;
with a drawstring;
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i ima prišivenu kapuljaču sa učkurom,
01:19
sometimes it has a marsupial pocket --
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ponekad i džep kao kod torbara -
01:22
was introduced in the 1930s
by Knickerbocker Knitting Company.
by Knickerbocker Knitting Company.
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predstavila je 1930-ih „Kompanija
za izradu muških tri-četvrt pantalona“.
za izradu muških tri-četvrt pantalona“.
01:26
Now it's called Champion.
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Danas se zove „Čempion“.
01:28
It was meant to keep athletes warm.
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Bio je namenjen da greje sportiste.
01:31
Of course, though, it was
such a functional, comfortable garment
such a functional, comfortable garment
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Naravno, između ostalog, bio je to
toliko funkcionalan i udoban komad odeće
toliko funkcionalan i udoban komad odeće
01:35
that it was very rapidly adopted
by workmen everywhere.
by workmen everywhere.
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da su ga radnici svuda
veoma brzo prihvatili.
veoma brzo prihvatili.
01:39
And then, around the 1980s,
it also gets adopted
it also gets adopted
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A zatim, oko 1980-ih,
takođe su ga prihvatili
takođe su ga prihvatili
01:43
by hip-hop and B-boys, skateboarders,
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hip-hop i B-boy pokreti, skejteri,
01:47
and it takes on this kind of
youth street culture.
youth street culture.
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i tako postaje deo ulične kulture mladih.
01:50
It was, at the same time,
super-comfortable,
super-comfortable,
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Bio je, u isto vreme, izuzetno udoban,
01:52
perfect for the streets
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savršen za ulice,
01:53
and also had that added value of anonymity
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a imao je i tu dodatnu
prednost anonimnosti
prednost anonimnosti
01:57
when you needed it.
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kada je bila potrebna.
01:58
And then we have Mark Zuckerberg,
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A zatim imamo i Marka Zakerberga,
02:00
who defies convention
of respectable attire for businesspeople.
of respectable attire for businesspeople.
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koji prkosi prihvaćenom pravilu
uglednog odevanja kod poslovnih ljudi.
uglednog odevanja kod poslovnih ljudi.
02:04
But interestingly, it's also a way to show
how power has changed.
how power has changed.
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Ali, zanimljivo je što je to i način
da se pokaže koliko se moć promenila.
da se pokaže koliko se moć promenila.
02:09
If you're wearing a two-piece suit,
you might be the bodyguard.
you might be the bodyguard.
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Ako nosiš dvodelno odelo,
možda si telohranitelj.
možda si telohranitelj.
02:12
The real powerful person is wearing
a hoodie with a T-shirt and jeans.
a hoodie with a T-shirt and jeans.
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Moćna osoba je zapravo ona koja nosi
duks sa kapuljačom, majicu i pantalone.
duks sa kapuljačom, majicu i pantalone.
02:17
It's easy to think of
the physical aspects of the hoodie.
the physical aspects of the hoodie.
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Lako je zamisliti fizičke aspekte
duksa sa kapuljačom.
duksa sa kapuljačom.
02:21
You can immediately think
of wearing the hood up,
of wearing the hood up,
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Možete odmah zamisliti
kako nosite kapuljaču
kako nosite kapuljaču
02:23
and you feel this warmth
and this protection,
and this protection,
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i odmah imate taj topli osećaj zaštite,
02:26
but at the same time,
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a u isto vreme
02:27
you can also feel
the psychological aspects of it.
the psychological aspects of it.
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možete osetiti i psihološku stranu toga.
02:30
I mean, think of donning a hoodie,
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Hoću reći, zamislite kako oblačite
duks sa kapuljačom
duks sa kapuljačom
02:32
all of a sudden, you feel more protected,
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i odjednom, osećate se zaštićeno
02:34
you feel that you are in your own shell.
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osećate kao da ste u sopstvenoj školjci.
02:41
We know very well what the hoodie
has come to signify
has come to signify
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Svi vrlo dobro znamo šta je duks
sa kapuljačom počeo da označava
sa kapuljačom počeo da označava
02:45
in the past few years
in the United States.
in the United States.
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poslednjih godina
u Sjedinjenim Američkim Država.
u Sjedinjenim Američkim Država.
Kada su Trejvona Martina,
02:47
When Trayvon Martin, a 17-year-old
African-American kid,
African-American kid,
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17-godišnjeg dečaka
afričko-američkog porekla,
afričko-američkog porekla,
02:52
was shot by a neighborhood vigilante,
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upucali osvetnici iz kraja
02:55
and Million Hoodie Marches happened
all over the United States,
all over the United States,
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i kada se Milionski marš kapuljača desio
širom Sjedinjenih Američkih Država,
širom Sjedinjenih Američkih Država,
03:00
in which people wore hoodies
with the hood up
with the hood up
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u kome su ljudi nosili
duks sa podignutom kapuljačom
duks sa podignutom kapuljačom
03:03
and marched in the streets
against this kind of prejudice.
against this kind of prejudice.
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i marširali ulicama
protiv ove vrste nepravde.
protiv ove vrste nepravde.
03:07
It doesn't happen that often
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Ne događa se tako često
03:09
for a garment to have
so much symbolism and history
so much symbolism and history
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da jedan komad odeće ima
toliko simbolizma i istorije
toliko simbolizma i istorije
03:13
and that encompasses
so many different universes
so many different universes
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i da obuhvata toliko različitih svetova
03:17
as the hoodie.
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kao što je duks sa kapuljačom.
03:18
So, like all garments,
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Pa, kao i kod svih komada odeće,
03:20
especially all truly utilitarian garments,
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pogotovo kod onih
zaista korisnih komada odeće,
zaista korisnih komada odeće,
03:23
it is very basic in its design.
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dizajn mu je veoma jednostavan.
03:25
But at the same time,
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Ali, u isto vreme,
03:26
it has a whole universe
of possibilities attached.
of possibilities attached.
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ima ceo svet povezanih mogućnosti.
ABOUT THE SPEAKER
Paola Antonelli - Design curatorPaola Antonelli is on a mission to introduce -- and explain -- design to the world. With her shows at New York's Museum of Modern Art, she celebrates design's presence in every part of life.
Why you should listen
Since she stepped back from practicing architecture in order to focus on writing about design, teaching and curating gallery exhibitions, Italian native Paola Antonelli has become a force to be reckoned with in the design world. Working at the Museum of Modern Art in New York since 1994, she is senior curator of the gallery's Architecture and Design department and, as of 2012, the museum's first ever director of research and development. Antonelli has worked on shows such as "Humble Masterpieces," which celebrated traditionally unheralded design icons such as the paperclip; "Design and the Elastic Mind," considering the relationship of design and technology, and "Talk to Me ," which looked at design and the communication of people and objects.
Ever mindful that the majority of visitors to MOMA are attracted by artists such as Picasso and Matisse, Antonelli works to ensure that if they do stumble across a design-related show, they'll be both entertained and enlightened. In 2012, she led a move to acquire 14 video games for the museum's permanent collection.
Paola Antonelli | Speaker | TED.com