ABOUT THE SPEAKER
Paola Antonelli - Design curator
Paola Antonelli is on a mission to introduce -- and explain -- design to the world. With her shows at New York's Museum of Modern Art, she celebrates design's presence in every part of life.

Why you should listen

Since she stepped back from practicing architecture in order to focus on writing about design, teaching and curating gallery exhibitions, Italian native Paola Antonelli has become a force to be reckoned with in the design world. Working at the Museum of Modern Art in New York since 1994, she is senior curator of the gallery's Architecture and Design department and, as of 2012, the museum's first ever director of research and development. Antonelli has worked on shows such as "Humble Masterpieces," which celebrated traditionally unheralded design icons such as the paperclip; "Design and the Elastic Mind," considering the relationship of design and technology, and "Talk to Me ," which looked at design and the communication of people and objects.

Ever mindful that the majority of visitors to MOMA are attracted by artists such as Picasso and Matisse, Antonelli works to ensure that if they do stumble across a design-related show, they'll be both entertained and enlightened. In 2012, she led a move to acquire 14 video games for the museum's permanent collection.

More profile about the speaker
Paola Antonelli | Speaker | TED.com
Small Thing Big Idea

Paola Antonelli: The 3,000-year history of the hoodie

保拉安特那利: 兜帽上衣的三千年歷史

Filmed:
662,618 views

兜帽上衣並不只是舒適的汗衫。設計策展人保拉安特那利帶我們看兜帽上衣的歷史。
- Design curator
Paola Antonelli is on a mission to introduce -- and explain -- design to the world. With her shows at New York's Museum of Modern Art, she celebrates design's presence in every part of life. Full bio

Double-click the English transcript below to play the video.

00:12
The hoodie連帽衫 is an amazing驚人 object目的.
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兜帽上衣是樣很了不起的東西。
00:14
It's one of those timeless永恆 objects對象
that we hardly幾乎不 think of,
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它是種不受時間影響的東西,
我們幾乎不會去思考它,
因為它被用得很好,
已經是我們生活的一部分。
00:19
because they work so well
that they're part部分 of our lives生活.
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00:22
We call them "humble謙卑 masterpieces名作."
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我們稱它為「謙虛的大作」。
00:24
[Small thing.]
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〔小東西。〕
00:25
[Big idea理念.]
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〔大點子。〕
00:28
[Paola帕烏拉 Antonelli安東內利 on
the Hoodie帽 衫]
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〔保拉安特那利談兜帽上衣〕
00:30
The hoodie連帽衫 has been --
even if it was not called so --
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兜帽上衣一直是──
即使以前沒有被這麼稱呼──
00:34
it's been an icon圖標 throughout始終 history歷史
for good and for bad reasons原因.
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一直是歷史上的代表性象徵,
理由有好的也有不好的。
00:38
The earliest最早 ones那些 that we can trace跟踪
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我們能追溯到最早的兜帽上衣,
00:41
are from ancient Greece希臘 and ancient Rome羅馬.
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是在古希臘和古羅馬的時候。
00:43
The Middle中間 Ages時代, you see a lot of monks和尚
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在中世紀,會看到很多僧侶
00:45
that were wearing穿著 garments服裝
that were cape-like海角象, with hoods抽油煙機 attached,
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穿著像斗篷一樣的衣服,
上面連著兜帽,
00:49
so therefore因此, "hoodies帽衫."
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因此,叫做「兜帽上衣」。
00:51
Ladies女士們 in the 17th century世紀
would wear穿 hoodies帽衫
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十七世紀的女性會穿兜帽上衣,
00:53
to kind of hide隱藏 themselves他們自己
when they were going to meet遇到 their lovers情侶.
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目的是在去見愛人時
隱藏自己的面孔。
00:57
And then, of course課程,
there's the legend傳說, there's fantasy幻想.
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當然,還有傳奇,還有幻想。
01:01
There's the image圖片 of the hoodie連帽衫
connected連接的 to the grim嚴峻 reaper收割者.
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兜帽上衣的形象和死神連結在一起。
01:04
There's the image圖片 of the hoodie連帽衫
connected連接的 to the executioner劊子手.
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兜帽上衣的形象和
行刑者連結在一起。
01:07
So there's the dark黑暗 side of the hoodie連帽衫.
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兜帽上衣也有黑暗的一面。
01:10
The modern現代 incarnation化身 of the hoodie連帽衫 --
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到了現代的兜帽上衣,
01:13
a garment服裝 that's made製作
usually平時 of cotton jersey球衣,
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通常是棉質針織的衣服,
01:16
that has a hood引擎罩 attached
with a drawstring索繩;
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上面連著有拉繩的兜帽;
01:19
sometimes有時 it has a marsupial有袋動物 pocket口袋 --
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有時前方會有袋鼠口袋──
01:22
was introduced介紹 in the 1930s
by Knickerbocker尼克博克 Knitting針織 Company公司.
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這是三〇年代由 Knickerbocker
織品公司推出的,
01:26
Now it's called Champion冠軍.
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就是現在的 Champion 運動服公司。
01:28
It was meant意味著 to keep athletes運動員 warm.
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它的目的是要幫運動員保暖。
01:31
Of course課程, though雖然, it was
such這樣 a functional實用, comfortable自在 garment服裝
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當然,因為這種衣服功能好又舒服,
01:35
that it was very rapidly急速 adopted採用
by workmen工人 everywhere到處.
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它很快就被各地的工匠採用。
01:39
And then, around the 1980s,
it also gets得到 adopted採用
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接著,在八〇年代,
穿兜帽上衣的人還包括
01:43
by hip-hop嘻哈 and B-boysB-男孩, skateboarders滑板,
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跳嘻哈和街舞的男孩、玩滑板的人,
01:47
and it takes on this kind of
youth青年 street culture文化.
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它變成了年輕街頭文化的一種流行。
01:50
It was, at the same相同 time,
super-comfortable超舒適,
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同時,它也超舒服好穿,
01:52
perfect完善 for the streets街道
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很適合在街上穿,
01:53
and also had that added添加 value of anonymity匿名
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它還有匿名的附加價值,
01:57
when you needed需要 it.
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若你需要的話。
01:58
And then we have Mark標記 Zuckerberg扎克伯格,
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接著有馬克祖克柏,
02:00
who defies難量 convention慣例
of respectable可敬 attire服裝 for businesspeople生意人.
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他公然反對在大會議上
商業人士要盛裝打扮的習俗。
02:04
But interestingly有趣, it's also a way to show顯示
how power功率 has changed.
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有趣的是,這也是展現出權力
已經轉換了的一種方式。
02:09
If you're wearing穿著 a two-piece兩件 suit適合,
you might威力 be the bodyguard保鏢.
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若你穿兩件式西裝,你可能是保鑣。
02:12
The real真實 powerful強大 person is wearing穿著
a hoodie連帽衫 with a T-shirtT恤衫 and jeans牛仔褲.
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真正有權力的人,穿的是
兜帽上衣搭配T恤和牛仔褲。
02:17
It's easy簡單 to think of
the physical物理 aspects方面 of the hoodie連帽衫.
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思考兜帽上衣的
實體面向是很容易的。
02:21
You can immediately立即 think
of wearing穿著 the hood引擎罩 up,
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你馬上就可以想到把兜帽戴上,
02:23
and you feel this warmth熱情
and this protection保護,
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你能感到溫暖以及受保護的感覺,
02:26
but at the same相同 time,
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但同時,
02:27
you can also feel
the psychological心理 aspects方面 of it.
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你也可以感受到它的心理面向。
02:30
I mean, think of donning戴上 a hoodie連帽衫,
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想像穿著兜帽上衣,
02:32
all of a sudden突然, you feel more protected保護,
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突然間,你就覺得比較受保護,
02:34
you feel that you are in your own擁有 shell貝殼.
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你覺得你在自己的保護殼當中。
02:41
We know very well what the hoodie連帽衫
has come to signify表示
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我們都很清楚,在美國,過去幾年
02:45
in the past過去 few少數 years年份
in the United聯合的 States狀態.
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兜帽變得很有重要意義。
02:47
When Trayvon塔拉萬 Martin馬丁, a 17-year-old-歲
African-American非裔美國人 kid孩子,
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當十七歲的非裔美國孩子
特雷沃恩馬丁
02:52
was shot射擊 by a neighborhood鄰里 vigilante私刑,
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被街坊的義警射殺,
02:55
and Million百萬 Hoodie帽 衫 Marches遊行 happened發生
all over the United聯合的 States狀態,
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全美展開了百萬兜帽上衣大遊行,
03:00
in which哪一個 people wore穿著 hoodies帽衫
with the hood引擎罩 up
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人們會穿著兜帽上衣並把兜帽戴上,
03:03
and marched遊行 in the streets街道
against反對 this kind of prejudice偏見.
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在街上遊行,抗議這種歧視。
03:07
It doesn't happen發生 that often經常
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這種事不常發生,
03:09
for a garment服裝 to have
so much symbolism象徵 and history歷史
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很少會有一種服裝能有
這麼多象徵性及歷史意義,
03:13
and that encompasses包括
so many許多 different不同 universes宇宙
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且包含了這麼多不同的領域,
03:17
as the hoodie連帽衫.
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兜帽上衣做到了。
03:18
So, like all garments服裝,
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所以,如同所有服裝,
03:20
especially特別 all truly utilitarian功利 garments服裝,
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特別是真正實用的服裝,
03:23
it is very basic基本 in its design設計.
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兜帽上衣的設計很基本。
03:25
But at the same相同 time,
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但同時,
03:26
it has a whole整個 universe宇宙
of possibilities可能性 attached.
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它又有著無限的可能性。
Translated by Lilian Chiu
Reviewed by Zihao Wang

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ABOUT THE SPEAKER
Paola Antonelli - Design curator
Paola Antonelli is on a mission to introduce -- and explain -- design to the world. With her shows at New York's Museum of Modern Art, she celebrates design's presence in every part of life.

Why you should listen

Since she stepped back from practicing architecture in order to focus on writing about design, teaching and curating gallery exhibitions, Italian native Paola Antonelli has become a force to be reckoned with in the design world. Working at the Museum of Modern Art in New York since 1994, she is senior curator of the gallery's Architecture and Design department and, as of 2012, the museum's first ever director of research and development. Antonelli has worked on shows such as "Humble Masterpieces," which celebrated traditionally unheralded design icons such as the paperclip; "Design and the Elastic Mind," considering the relationship of design and technology, and "Talk to Me ," which looked at design and the communication of people and objects.

Ever mindful that the majority of visitors to MOMA are attracted by artists such as Picasso and Matisse, Antonelli works to ensure that if they do stumble across a design-related show, they'll be both entertained and enlightened. In 2012, she led a move to acquire 14 video games for the museum's permanent collection.

More profile about the speaker
Paola Antonelli | Speaker | TED.com