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Paola Antonelli: The 3,000-year history of the hoodie
Paola Antonelli: La historia de 3000 años de la capucha
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La capucha es mucho más que una prenda cómoda. La curadora de diseño Paola Antonelli nos lleva por su historia.
Paola Antonelli - Design curator
Paola Antonelli is on a mission to introduce -- and explain -- design to the world. With her shows at New York's Museum of Modern Art, she celebrates design's presence in every part of life. Full bio
Paola Antonelli is on a mission to introduce -- and explain -- design to the world. With her shows at New York's Museum of Modern Art, she celebrates design's presence in every part of life. Full bio
Double-click the English transcript below to play the video.
00:12
The hoodie is an amazing object.
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La capucha es un objeto increíble.
00:14
It's one of those timeless objects
that we hardly think of,
that we hardly think of,
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Es uno de esos objetos atemporales
en que apenas pensamos,
en que apenas pensamos,
00:19
because they work so well
that they're part of our lives.
that they're part of our lives.
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porque funciona tan bien
que forma parte de nuestra vida.
que forma parte de nuestra vida.
00:22
We call them "humble masterpieces."
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Los llamamos "humildes obras maestras".
00:24
[Small thing.]
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[Cosa pequeña.]
00:25
[Big idea.]
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[Idea grande.]
00:28
[Paola Antonelli on
the Hoodie]
the Hoodie]
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[Paola Antonelli habla
de la capucha]
de la capucha]
00:30
The hoodie has been --
even if it was not called so --
even if it was not called so --
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La capucha, aunque
no se haya denominado así,
no se haya denominado así,
00:34
it's been an icon throughout history
for good and for bad reasons.
for good and for bad reasons.
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es un icono a través de la historia
por razones buenas y malas.
por razones buenas y malas.
00:38
The earliest ones that we can trace
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Las capuchas más tempranas
que encontramos
que encontramos
00:41
are from ancient Greece and ancient Rome.
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proceden de la antigua Grecia
y la antigua Roma.
y la antigua Roma.
00:43
The Middle Ages, you see a lot of monks
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Durante la Edad Media,
muchos monjes llevaban trajes
muchos monjes llevaban trajes
00:45
that were wearing garments
that were cape-like, with hoods attached,
that were cape-like, with hoods attached,
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parecidos a túnicas con "capa",
de allí, "capucha".
00:49
so therefore, "hoodies."
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00:51
Ladies in the 17th century
would wear hoodies
would wear hoodies
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En el siglo XVII, las damas
llevaban prendas con capuchas
llevaban prendas con capuchas
00:53
to kind of hide themselves
when they were going to meet their lovers.
when they were going to meet their lovers.
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para esconderse en camino
a estar con su amante.
a estar con su amante.
00:57
And then, of course,
there's the legend, there's fantasy.
there's the legend, there's fantasy.
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Y luego, claro,
está la leyenda, la fantasía.
está la leyenda, la fantasía.
01:01
There's the image of the hoodie
connected to the grim reaper.
connected to the grim reaper.
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La capucha se asocia con la Parca.
01:04
There's the image of the hoodie
connected to the executioner.
connected to the executioner.
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La capucha se asocia con el verdugo.
01:07
So there's the dark side of the hoodie.
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Así que la capucha tiene un lado oscuro.
01:10
The modern incarnation of the hoodie --
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La encarnación moderna
de la capucha...
de la capucha...
01:13
a garment that's made
usually of cotton jersey,
usually of cotton jersey,
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una prenda normalmente
de jersey de algodón,
de jersey de algodón,
01:16
that has a hood attached
with a drawstring;
with a drawstring;
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que tiene una capucha pegada
y tiene un cordón,
y tiene un cordón,
01:19
sometimes it has a marsupial pocket --
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a veces tiene bolsillo marsupial,
01:22
was introduced in the 1930s
by Knickerbocker Knitting Company.
by Knickerbocker Knitting Company.
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fue presentada en los años 30
por Knickerbocker Knitting Company.
por Knickerbocker Knitting Company.
01:26
Now it's called Champion.
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Ahora se llama Champion.
01:28
It was meant to keep athletes warm.
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La idea era mantener
la temperatura de los atletas.
la temperatura de los atletas.
01:31
Of course, though, it was
such a functional, comfortable garment
such a functional, comfortable garment
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Pero claro, es una prenda
tan funcional y cómoda
tan funcional y cómoda
01:35
that it was very rapidly adopted
by workmen everywhere.
by workmen everywhere.
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que fue adoptada enseguida
por obreros en todas partes.
por obreros en todas partes.
01:39
And then, around the 1980s,
it also gets adopted
it also gets adopted
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Y luego en los años 80,
es adoptada también
es adoptada también
01:43
by hip-hop and B-boys, skateboarders,
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por el hip-hop y los b-boys, los skaters,
01:47
and it takes on this kind of
youth street culture.
youth street culture.
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y representa un tipo de cultura urbana.
01:50
It was, at the same time,
super-comfortable,
super-comfortable,
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Es a la vez súper cómoda,
perfecta para llevar en la calle,
perfecta para llevar en la calle,
01:52
perfect for the streets
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01:53
and also had that added value of anonymity
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y tiene ese valor adicional de anonimato
cuando la necesitas.
01:57
when you needed it.
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01:58
And then we have Mark Zuckerberg,
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Y luego tenemos a Mark Zuckerberg,
02:00
who defies convention
of respectable attire for businesspeople.
of respectable attire for businesspeople.
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que desafía las normas de vestimenta
respetable para la gente de negocios.
respetable para la gente de negocios.
02:04
But interestingly, it's also a way to show
how power has changed.
how power has changed.
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Curiosamente, también es una manera
de demostrar cómo ha cambiado el poder.
de demostrar cómo ha cambiado el poder.
02:09
If you're wearing a two-piece suit,
you might be the bodyguard.
you might be the bodyguard.
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Si llevas un traje de dos piezas,
quizás eres el guardaespaldas,
quizás eres el guardaespaldas,
02:12
The real powerful person is wearing
a hoodie with a T-shirt and jeans.
a hoodie with a T-shirt and jeans.
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y la persona poderosa de verdad
lleva una capucha
lleva una capucha
con una camiseta y jeans.
02:17
It's easy to think of
the physical aspects of the hoodie.
the physical aspects of the hoodie.
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Es fácil imaginar los aspectos físicos
de esta prenda.
de esta prenda.
02:21
You can immediately think
of wearing the hood up,
of wearing the hood up,
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Pensamos automáticamente
en la capucha puesta,
en la capucha puesta,
02:23
and you feel this warmth
and this protection,
and this protection,
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en sentir su calor y su protección.
02:26
but at the same time,
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Pero al mismo tiempo, podemos sentir
los aspectos psicológicos.
los aspectos psicológicos.
02:27
you can also feel
the psychological aspects of it.
the psychological aspects of it.
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02:30
I mean, think of donning a hoodie,
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Piensa en ponerte una capucha,
02:32
all of a sudden, you feel more protected,
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y de repente sientes más protección,
02:34
you feel that you are in your own shell.
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sientes que estás en tu propia cáscara.
02:41
We know very well what the hoodie
has come to signify
has come to signify
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Sabemos muy bien lo que
ha significado la capucha
ha significado la capucha
02:45
in the past few years
in the United States.
in the United States.
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en los últimos años en EE.UU.
02:47
When Trayvon Martin, a 17-year-old
African-American kid,
African-American kid,
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Cuando Trayvon Martin, un chico
afroestadounidense de 17 años,
afroestadounidense de 17 años,
02:52
was shot by a neighborhood vigilante,
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fue asesinado por un miembro
de una patrulla vecinal,
de una patrulla vecinal,
02:55
and Million Hoodie Marches happened
all over the United States,
all over the United States,
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hubo manifestaciones
"Million Hoodie Marches"
"Million Hoodie Marches"
por todo Estados Unidos,
03:00
in which people wore hoodies
with the hood up
with the hood up
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en las cuales las personas
llevaban prendas con capuchas
llevaban prendas con capuchas
03:03
and marched in the streets
against this kind of prejudice.
against this kind of prejudice.
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y desfilaron por las calles
en contra a ese tipo de prejuicio.
en contra a ese tipo de prejuicio.
03:07
It doesn't happen that often
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No ocurre mucho
03:09
for a garment to have
so much symbolism and history
so much symbolism and history
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que una prenda encarne
tanto simbolismo e historia,
tanto simbolismo e historia,
03:13
and that encompasses
so many different universes
so many different universes
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y que abarque tantos diferentes universos
03:17
as the hoodie.
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como la capucha.
03:18
So, like all garments,
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Como todas las prendas,
particularmente las prendas
verdaderamente utilitarias,
verdaderamente utilitarias,
03:20
especially all truly utilitarian garments,
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03:23
it is very basic in its design.
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la capucha es muy básica en su diseño.
03:25
But at the same time,
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Pero al mismo tiempo,
03:26
it has a whole universe
of possibilities attached.
of possibilities attached.
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lleva consigo un universo entero
de posibilidades.
de posibilidades.
ABOUT THE SPEAKER
Paola Antonelli - Design curatorPaola Antonelli is on a mission to introduce -- and explain -- design to the world. With her shows at New York's Museum of Modern Art, she celebrates design's presence in every part of life.
Why you should listen
Since she stepped back from practicing architecture in order to focus on writing about design, teaching and curating gallery exhibitions, Italian native Paola Antonelli has become a force to be reckoned with in the design world. Working at the Museum of Modern Art in New York since 1994, she is senior curator of the gallery's Architecture and Design department and, as of 2012, the museum's first ever director of research and development. Antonelli has worked on shows such as "Humble Masterpieces," which celebrated traditionally unheralded design icons such as the paperclip; "Design and the Elastic Mind," considering the relationship of design and technology, and "Talk to Me ," which looked at design and the communication of people and objects.
Ever mindful that the majority of visitors to MOMA are attracted by artists such as Picasso and Matisse, Antonelli works to ensure that if they do stumble across a design-related show, they'll be both entertained and enlightened. In 2012, she led a move to acquire 14 video games for the museum's permanent collection.
Paola Antonelli | Speaker | TED.com