ABOUT THE SPEAKER
Alex Honnold - Rock climber
Alex Honnold is a professional rock climber whose audacious free-solo ascents of America's biggest cliffs have made him one of the world's most recognized climbers.

Why you should listen

A gifted but hard-working athlete, Honnold is known as much for his humble, self-effacing attitude as he is for the dizzyingly tall cliffs he has climbed without a rope to protect him if he falls. Honnold has been profiled by 60 Minutes and the New York Times, featured on the cover of National Geographic, appeared in international television commercials and starred in numerous adventure films, including the Emmy-nominated Alone on the Wall. He is the subject of the documentary feature Free Solo, which was released by National Geographic Documentary Films.

Honnold is the founder of the Honnold Foundation, a nonprofit that promotes solar energy access worldwide. To this day, he maintains his simple "dirtbag-climber" existence, living out of his van, donating a significant portion of his income to the Honnold Foundation and traveling the world in search of the next great vertical adventure.

More profile about the speaker
Alex Honnold | Speaker | TED.com
TED2018

Alex Honnold: How I climbed a 3,000-foot vertical cliff -- without ropes

亚历克斯·霍诺德: 我是如何不用绳索,攀爬近一千米的垂直峭壁的

Filmed:
8,433,060 views

想像一下你独自处在九百多米高的垂直峭壁正中间。如果你掉下去,没有绳索会拉住你。对职业攀岩者艾力克斯·霍诺德而言,这个让人晕眩的场景,是他十年梦想的高潮。在这场让人寒毛直竖的演说中,他诉说如何爬上酋长岩顶峰的故事,完成了史上最危险的单人徒手攀岩壮举之一。
- Rock climber
Alex Honnold is a professional rock climber whose audacious free-solo ascents of America's biggest cliffs have made him one of the world's most recognized climbers. Full bio

Double-click the English transcript below to play the video.

00:13
Hello你好. I'd like to show显示 you guys
30 seconds of the best最好 day of my life.
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大家好,我想花三十秒钟
展示我人生中最美好的一天。
00:50
(Applause掌声)
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(掌声)
00:56
So that was El萨尔瓦多 Capitan
in California's加州 Yosemite优胜美地 National国民 Park公园,
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这是位于加尼福亚
优胜美地国家公园的酋长岩。
你也许没注意到,
01:00
and in case案件 you couldn't不能 tell,
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我是独自一人、
没有绳索的攀爬。
01:02
I was climbing攀登 by myself without a rope,
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这是一种攀岩的的方式,
叫做“单人徒手攀岩”。
01:04
a style样式 of a climbing攀登
known已知 as free自由 soloing索洛辛.
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那是我近十年的梦想,
01:06
That was the culmination大成
of a nearly几乎 decade-long长达十年之久 dream梦想,
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在刚才的短片中,
我在离地面762米高的地方。
01:09
and in the video视频 I'm over
2,500 feet off the ground地面.
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看起来很吓人?确实如此。
01:12
Seems似乎 scary害怕? Yeah, it is,
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这也是为什么我这么多年来
都梦想着独自攀登酋长岩,
01:14
which哪一个 is why I spent花费 so many许多 years年份
dreaming做梦 about soloing索洛辛 El萨尔瓦多 Cap
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但迟迟没有做出行动。
01:17
and not actually其实 doing it.
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但是在视频里的那一天,
01:18
But on the day that that video视频 was taken采取,
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我没有感觉到丝毫的害怕。
01:21
it didn't feel scary害怕 at all.
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感觉就像在公园漫步
一样惬意和自然,
01:22
It felt as comfortable自在 and natural自然
as a walk步行 in the park公园,
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就跟大多数那天在
优胜美地的游客一样。
01:25
which哪一个 is what most folks乡亲
were doing in Yosemite优胜美地 that day.
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现在我想谈谈我是怎样
能够感受到如此放松,
01:28
Today今天 I'd like to talk about
how I was able能够 to feel so comfortable自在
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以及克服我的恐惧的。
01:31
and how I overcame克服了 my fear恐惧.
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我会非常简单地介绍一下
我是如何成为一名攀岩者,
01:32
I'll start开始 with a very brief简要 version
of how I became成为 a climber登山者,
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然后讲讲我最重要的
两次自由独攀的经历。
01:35
and then tell the story故事
of my two most significant重大 free自由 solos独奏.
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两次都很成功,
这是为什么我还能站在这里.
01:38
They were both successful成功,
which哪一个 is why I'm here.
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(笑声)
01:41
(Laughter笑声)
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但是第一次并没有让我感到满足,
01:43
But the first felt largely大部分 unsatisfying不满意,
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第二次在酋长岩,成为了目前为止
我生命中最有成就感的一天。
01:47
whereas the second第二, El萨尔瓦多 Cap, was by far
the most fulfilling履行 day of my life.
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01:51
Through通过 these two climbs攀登,
you'll你会 see my process处理 for managing管理的 fear恐惧.
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通过这两次攀爬,
你便能知道我管理恐惧的过程。
我从大概十岁的时候
就在健身房开始攀岩运动
01:55
So I started开始 climbing攀登 in a gym健身房
when I was around 10 years年份 old,
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也就是说,我的一生
已经在攀岩运动上
01:57
which哪一个 means手段 that my life
has been centered中心 on climbing攀登
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专注了多于20年。
02:00
for more than 20 years年份.
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我在室内练习攀岩近十年后,
02:01
After nearly几乎 a decade
of climbing攀登 mostly大多 indoors在室内,
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我转向了室外攀岩
并逐渐开始了单人徒手攀岩。
02:04
I made制作 the transition过渡 to the outdoors在户外
and gradually逐渐 started开始 free自由 soloing索洛辛.
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随着时间的推移,
我逐渐开始习惯无绳索。
02:07
I built内置 up my comfort安慰 over time
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并慢慢地接受了
更大,更具挑战性的墙壁。
02:09
and slowly慢慢地 took on
bigger and more challenging具有挑战性的 walls墙壁.
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此前有很多徒手独攀的前辈,
02:11
And there have been
many许多 free自由 soloists独唱 before me,
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我从他们那里获得了很多的灵感。
02:14
so I had plenty丰富 of
inspiration灵感 to draw from.
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但到2008年时,我就复现了绝大
多数前辈在优胜美地的徒手独攀,
02:16
But by 2008, I'd repeated重复
most of their previous以前 solos独奏 in Yosemite优胜美地
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然后我便开始了向新的地带探寻。
02:19
and was starting开始 to imagine想像
breaking破坏 into new terrain地形.
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那显而易见的第一选择
就是“半穹顶”,
02:21
The obvious明显 first choice选择 was Half Dome拱顶,
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这座惊艳的600米高的岩壁
是整个山谷东侧的主人。
02:23
an iconic标志性的 2,000-foot-脚丫子 wall
the lords领主 over the east end结束 of the valley.
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02:27
The problem问题, though虽然 also the allure引诱,
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挑战的难点,也是其诱惑的地方,
在于它实在是太大了。
02:29
was that it was too big.
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当时我还不太清楚如何去
为一个徒手独攀做准备。
02:30
I didn't really know how to prepare准备
for a potential潜在 free自由 solo独奏.
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所以我干脆就没有做准备,
02:33
So I decided决定 to skip跳跃 the preparations准备
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直接去迎接这次探险。
02:35
and just go up there
and have an adventure冒险.
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我本想着也许我能
就在那一次超常发挥,
02:38
I figured想通 I would rise上升 to the occasion场合,
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显然,这不是最好的策略。
02:40
which哪一个, unsurprisingly勿庸置疑,
was not the best最好 strategy战略.
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02:43
I did at least最小 climb the route路线
roped拉拢 up with a friend朋友 two days before
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但我还是至少在两天前,
跟一个朋友带着绳索攀爬了一次
只是想确认一下大概的攀爬路径
02:47
just to make sure
that I knew知道 roughly大致 where to go
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以及看看是否在我的
体能范围之内。
02:49
and that I could physically物理 do it.
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但当我在两天之后独自攀爬时,
02:51
But when I came来了 back
by myself two days later后来,
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我临时决定不去爬原定路线。
02:53
I decided决定 that I didn't
want to go that way.
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我知道那里大概有
91米的可变空间
02:55
I knew知道 that there was a 300-foot-脚丫子 variation变异
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绕过着攀爬路径中
最难的一个部分。
02:57
that circled盘旋 around
one of the hardest最难 parts部分 of the climb.
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我突然决定放弃最难的那一个部分
而选择可变空间,
03:00
I suddenly突然 decided决定 to skip跳跃 the hard part部分
and take the variation变异,
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尽管我从来没有爬过那里,
03:03
even though虽然 I'd never climbed爬上 it before,
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但我又紧接着开始怀疑自己。
03:05
but I immediately立即 began开始 to doubt怀疑 myself.
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想象一下你独自一人,
在610米高的峭壁死亡中心,
03:07
Imagine想像 being存在 by yourself你自己
in the dead center中央 of a 2,000-foot-脚丫子 face面对,
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想知道自己是否迷路了。
03:10
wondering想知道 if you're lost丢失.
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(笑声)
03:12
(Laughter笑声)
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谢天谢地,我选择了
几乎是正确的路
03:13
Thankfully感激地, it was
pretty漂亮 much the right way
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然后我又迂回至计划的路线上。
03:16
and I circled盘旋 back to the route路线.
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当时我有一点点慌张,
好吧我相当的慌张,
03:18
I was slightly rattled叮叮当当,
I was pretty漂亮 rattled叮叮当当,
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但我努力不受太大的情绪影响,
03:20
but I tried试着 not to let it
bother me too much
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因为我知道最难的部分在顶端。
03:23
because I knew知道 that all the hardest最难
climbing攀登 was up at the top最佳.
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我需要保持镇静。
03:26
I needed需要 to stay composed.
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那是一个美丽的九月份早晨,
随着我越爬越高,
03:28
It was a beautiful美丽 September九月 morning早上,
and as I climbed爬上 higher更高,
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我能够听到游客们在
山顶上的聊天与欢笑。
03:30
I could hear the sounds声音 of tourists游客
chatting聊天的 and laughing on the summit首脑.
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他们都是从山背后一般的
登山路线走上来的,
03:34
They'd他们会 all hiked上调 up
the normal正常 trail落后 on the back,
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那也是我准备的走下山的路线。
03:36
which哪一个 I was planning规划 on using运用
for my descent降落.
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但在我和山顶之间
有一块光滑的花岗岩平板。
03:38
But between之间 me and the summit首脑
lay铺设 a blank空白 slab of granite花岗岩.
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上面没有裂缝,或是
边缘能让我抓住,
03:41
There were no cracks裂缝
or edges边缘 to hold保持 on to,
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只有一些细小的波纹状的花纹
在一个接近于垂直的表面。
03:43
just small ripples涟漪 of texture质地
up a slightly less than vertical垂直 wall.
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我得把我的生命托付给我攀岩鞋
03:47
I had to trust相信 my life to the friction摩擦
between之间 my climbing攀登 shoes
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与光滑的花岗岩之间的摩擦力。
03:50
and the smooth光滑 granite花岗岩.
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我小心谨慎地平衡着向上移动,
03:51
I carefully小心 balanced均衡 my way upward向上,
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在小凸起上来回转移我的重心。
03:53
shifting my weight重量 back and forth向前
between之间 the small smears涂片.
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但是随之我面临着一个
我不太能信任的脚点,
03:55
But then I reached到达 a foothold立足
that I didn't quite相当 trust相信.
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若是两天之前,
我会毫不犹豫地踏上去,
03:58
Two days ago, I'd have just
stepped加强 right up on it,
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但那是因为我有绳索的保护。
04:01
but that would have been with a rope on.
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现在它看起来太小太滑了。
04:02
Now it felt too small and too slippery.
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当我将重心放上去的时候,
我很怀疑我的脚是否能站住。
04:04
I doubted怀疑 that my foot脚丫子
would stay on if I weighted加权 it.
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我也考虑一英尺外的另一个选择,
但是那个更糟糕。
04:07
I considered考虑 a foot脚丫子 further进一步 to the side,
which哪一个 seemed似乎 worse更差.
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我替换了下双脚的位置,
用一只脚试探更远的地方。
04:10
I switched交换的 my feet and tried试着
a foot脚丫子 further进一步 out.
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但是感觉更糟糕。
04:12
It seemed似乎 even worse更差.
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我开始恐慌了。
04:13
I started开始 to panic恐慌.
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我能听见人们在就在
我头顶上欢声笑语。
04:15
I could hear people laughing
on the summit首脑 just above以上 me.
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我当时真的不想继续
呆在那块花岗岩平板上
04:17
I wanted to be anywhere随地 but on that slab.
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我的心思在向四处游走,
04:19
My mind心神 was racing赛跑 in every一切 direction方向.
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我清楚地知道我别无选择,
但是当时害怕得没有勇气迈出那一步。
04:21
I knew知道 what I had to do,
but I was too afraid害怕 to do it.
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我只是需要用我的右脚踩住就好了。
04:24
I just had to stand up on my right foot脚丫子.
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所以我在感觉经历了永恒过后,
我就接受了我必须迈出去的现实。
04:26
And so after what felt like an eternity永恒,
I accepted公认 what I had to do
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我用右脚踏上了那个脚点,
04:30
and I stood站在 up on the right foot脚丫子,
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并没有滑掉,所以我也没有死,
04:31
and it didn't slip, and so I didn't die,
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那最难的一步之后,
剩余的攀爬就云淡风轻了。
04:33
and that move移动 marked the end结束
of the hardest最难 climbing攀登.
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04:36
And so I charged带电 from there
towards the summit首脑.
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所以我接下来激昂地
一口气爬到山顶。
一般情况下,当你
成功登顶半穹顶后,
04:38
And so normally一般 when you summit首脑 Half Dome拱顶,
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你会有绳索等等
攀岩装备挂在身上,
04:41
you have a rope and a bunch
of climbing攀登 gear齿轮 on you,
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游客们会惊叹并
蜂拥而至与你合影。
04:43
and tourists游客 gasp喘气 and they
flock around you for photos相片.
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这一次我出现在山顶边缘,
赤裸着上身,气喘吁吁而又兴奋。
04:46
This time I popped膨化 over the edge边缘
shirtless赤膊上阵, panting气吁吁的, jacked抬高.
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我自己非常陶醉,
但是没有游客看我一眼。
04:49
I was amped安营, but nobody没有人 batted击中的 an eye.
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04:51
(Laughter笑声)
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(笑声)
04:57
I looked看着 like a lost丢失 hiker徒步 旅行 者
that was too close to the edge边缘.
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我看起来像一个站在山顶边缘
迷失了方向的徒步登山者。
我身边都是在打电话、
野餐的游客们。
04:59
I was surrounded包围 by people
talking on cell细胞 phones手机 and having picnics野餐.
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我感觉像是在商场里。
05:04
I felt like I was in a mall购物中心.
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(笑声)
05:06
(Laughter笑声)
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我脱下我非常紧的攀爬鞋,
开始走下山去,
05:08
I took off my tight climbing攀登 shoes
and started开始 hiking徒步旅行 back down,
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这时才有一个人注意到我说:
05:11
and that's when people stopped停止 me.
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“光脚登山?你可真厉害!”
05:13
"You're hiking徒步旅行 barefoot赤脚?
That's so hard-core硬核."
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05:15
(Laughter笑声)
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(笑声)
我都不想去解释,
05:22
I didn't bother to explain说明,
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05:24
but that night in my climbing攀登 journal日志,
I duly适时地 noted注意 my free自由 solo独奏 of Half Dome拱顶,
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那天晚上在我的登山日记中,
完整记录了我半穹顶的徒手独攀,
但是我也画下了一个皱眉的表情,
“我能做的更好吗?”
05:28
but I included包括 a frownyfrowny face面对
and a comment评论, "Do better?"
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05:33
I'd succeeded成功 in the solo独奏
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我确实成功独攀登顶了,
并且,它作为攀岩界伟大
的第一次而被庆祝。
05:34
and it was celebrated著名
as a big first in climbing攀登.
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一些朋友后来还拍了
一部讲述它的电影
05:36
Some friends朋友 later后来 made制作 a film电影 about it.
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但是我并没有被满足。
05:38
But I was unsatisfied不满意.
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我对我的表现感到失望,
05:40
I was disappointed失望 in my performance性能,
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因为我知道我逃过了一劫。
05:42
because I knew知道 that I had
gotten得到 away with something.
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我不想成为一个幸运的攀岩者,
我只想成为一个优秀的攀岩者。
05:44
I didn't want to be a lucky幸运 climber登山者.
I wanted to be a great climber登山者.
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所以在那之后的一年多里
我都没有再去做徒手独攀,
05:47
I actually其实 took the next下一个 year or so
off from free自由 soloing索洛辛,
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因为我知道我不能培养出
依靠在运气上的习惯
05:50
because I knew知道 that I shouldn't不能
make a habit习惯 of relying依托 on luck运气.
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但是虽然我不常去独自攀岩,
05:53
But even though虽然
I wasn't soloing索洛辛 very much,
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我已经开始计划攀爬酋长岩了。
05:55
I'd already已经 started开始 to think about El萨尔瓦多 Cap.
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它在我心里一直都是
徒手独攀界皇冠上的宝石。
05:57
It was always in the back of my mind心神
as the obvious明显 crown王冠 jewel of solos独奏.
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它是世界上最耀眼的一面攀爬墙。
06:01
It's the most striking引人注目 wall in the world世界.
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在那之后的七年中的每一年,
06:03
Each year, for the next下一个 seven years年份,
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06:05
I'd think, "This is the year
that I'm going to solo独奏 El萨尔瓦多 Cap."
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我都告诉自己说,
“今年我会徒手独攀酋长岩。”
06:08
And then I would drive驾驶 into Yosemite优胜美地,
look up at the wall, and think,
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然后我就会开车进入优胜美地,
看着那面墙,想着,
“这谁爬得上去!”
06:11
"No frickin'frickin' way."
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(笑声)
06:13
(Laughter笑声)
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它实在是太大太吓人了。
06:15
It's too big and too scary害怕.
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但最终我终于接受了
我想接受酋长岩的挑战。
06:17
But eventually终于 I came来了 to accept接受 that
I wanted to test测试 myself against反对 El萨尔瓦多 Cap.
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登顶意味着对精湛技巧的
娴熟掌握,
06:21
It represented代表 true真正 mastery征服,
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但这次我需要与上次不同的感觉。
06:23
but I needed需要 it to feel different不同.
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我不想要任何惊险或是迟疑。
06:25
I didn't want to get away with anything
or barely仅仅 squeak by.
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我想要以最正确的方式征服它。
06:28
This time I wanted to do it right.
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06:31
The thing that makes品牌 El萨尔瓦多 Cap
so intimidating吓人
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酋长岩令人胆怯的地方在于
它整面墙庞大的规模。
06:33
is the sheer绝对 scale规模 of the wall.
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大多数攀岩者会花3-5天
06:35
Most climbers登山者 take three to five days
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来攀爬这块914.4米垂直的
花岗岩。
06:36
to ascend the 3,000 feet
of vertical垂直 granite花岗岩.
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想象一下你只能用一双鞋,
和一包石灰粉,
06:39
The idea理念 of setting设置 out
up a wall of that size尺寸
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来爬这么大的一面墙简直不可能。
06:41
with nothing but shoes and
a chalk粉笔 bag seemed似乎 impossible不可能.
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900多米的攀爬意味着
06:45
3,000 feet of climbing攀登 represents代表
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上千次的的大幅度的手脚运动,
06:46
thousands数千 of distinct不同
hand and foot脚丫子 movements运动,
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这么多的动作都需要记住。
06:49
which哪一个 is a lot to remember记得.
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很多动作我完全靠
肌肉重复来记住.
06:50
Many许多 of the moves移动 I knew知道
through通过 sheer绝对 repetition重复.
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我在过去十年里用绳索
攀爬了酋长岩不下50次。
06:52
I'd climbed爬上 El萨尔瓦多 Cap maybe 50 times
over the previous以前 decade with a rope.
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这张照片展示了我通常
训练动作的方法。
06:56
But this photo照片 shows节目 my preferred首选
method方法 of rehearsing排练 the moves移动.
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我在山顶上,
06:59
I'm on the summit首脑,
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正准备贴着表面将
一千多英尺的绳索防下去,
07:00
about to repel击退 down the face面对
with over a thousand feet of rope
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花一整天时间练习。
07:03
to spend the day practicing.
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只要我发现安全并
可重复实现的动作,
07:05
Once一旦 I found发现 sequences序列
that felt secure安全 and repeatable重复,
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我就必须记住它们。
07:07
I had to memorize记忆 them.
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我必须确保这些动作
根植在我心里
07:09
I had to make sure that they were
so deeply ingrained根深蒂固 within me
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并且没有丝毫出错的可能性。
07:12
that there was no possibility可能性 of error错误.
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我不想花任何时间去犹豫
哪一边是正确的路径
07:13
I didn't want to be wondering想知道
if I was going the right way
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或是哪里是最佳的手点。
07:16
or using运用 the best最好 holds持有.
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我需要一切动作都来得自然。
07:18
I needed需要 everything to feel automatic自动.
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在有绳索保护下的攀爬
基本上是个体力活。
07:20
Climbing攀登 with a rope
is a largely大部分 physical物理 effort功夫.
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你只需要足够健硕来
抓住岩壁并向上攀爬。
07:22
You just have to be strong强大 enough足够
to hold保持 on and make the movements运动 upward向上.
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但是徒手独攀更是考验内心。
07:26
But free自由 soloing索洛辛
plays播放 out more in the mind心神.
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体力付出基本上是相同的。
07:28
The physical物理 effort功夫 is largely大部分 the same相同.
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你的身体仍然是爬一样的墙。
07:30
Your body身体 is still climbing攀登 the same相同 wall.
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但是你需要保持冷静
并且时刻表现出最佳状态
07:32
But staying calm冷静
and performing执行 at your best最好
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当你知道任何错误都
可能意味着死亡时,
07:34
when you know that
any mistake错误 could mean death死亡
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需要某种超乎平常的心态。
07:36
requires要求 a certain某些 kind of mindset心态.
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(笑声)
07:38
(Laughter笑声)
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我没想到这点你们也会觉得好笑,
但是你们觉得好笑也行。
07:41
That's not supposed应该 to be funny滑稽,
but if it is, it is.
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(笑声)
07:43
(Laughter笑声)
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我努力通过幻想视觉
来培养那种心境,
07:46
I worked工作 to cultivate培育 that mindset心态
through通过 visualization可视化,
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换句话说我会在脑海中
幻想整个攀爬过程。
07:49
which哪一个 basically基本上 just means手段 imagining想象
the entire整个 experience经验 of soloing索洛辛 the wall.
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一方面,这能帮助我记住
各个手点与脚点的位置,
07:53
Partially部分, that was to help me
remember记得 all the holds持有,
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但更多的,幻想帮助我感觉到
07:55
but mostly大多 visualization可视化
was about feeling感觉 the texture质地
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每一块手点的纹路
07:58
of each hold保持 in my hand
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幻想我伸出腿踏上去的感觉。
07:59
and imagining想象 the sensation感觉 of my leg
reaching到达 out and placing配售 my foot脚丫子 just so.
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我会将这全部幻想成
在高空中编排的舞蹈。
08:03
I'd imagine想像 it all like a choreographed编排
dance舞蹈 thousands数千 of feet up.
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整段路径最难的一个部分
叫做“巨石难题”
08:06
The most difficult part部分 of the whole整个 route路线
was called the Boulder漂砾 Problem问题.
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它在距离地面600多米处,
08:10
It was about 2,000 feet off the ground地面
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包含了整个攀爬中
最难的几个肢体动作。
08:12
and consisted of the hardest最难
physical物理 moves移动 on the whole整个 route路线:
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在不理想的手点之间长拉
加上非常小且滑的脚点。
08:15
long pulls between之间 poor较差的 handholds手持设备
with very small, slippery feet.
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当我说 “不理想的手点”
意味着这样的情境:
08:18
This is what I mean by a poor较差的 handhold手持:
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小于一只铅笔宽面
朝下的一个边缘
08:20
an edge边缘 smaller than the width宽度
of a pencil铅笔 but facing面对 downward向下
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我需要用我的拇指扣住。
08:23
that I had to press up into with my thumb拇指.
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但那还不是最难的。
08:26
But that wasn't even the hardest最难 part部分.
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最难的部分需要我
完成一个空手道踢腿脚法,
08:28
The crux症结 culminated高潮 in a karate空手道 kick
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我的左脚趴在里面一个
相邻的角落的情况下,
08:29
with my left foot脚丫子 over to the inside
of an adjacent corner,
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需要高度的精确和灵活的动作,
08:32
a maneuver演习 that required需要 a high degree
of precision精确 and flexibility灵活性,
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让我不得不提前一年
开始的每天晚上
08:35
enough足够 so that I'd been doing
a nightly每夜 stretching拉伸 routine常规
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完成特定伸展运动训练
08:38
for a full充分 year ahead of time
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来确保我能够自然地伸腿可及。
08:40
to make sure that I could comfortably舒服
make the reach达到 with my leg.
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随着我练习那些动作,
08:43
As I practiced the moves移动,
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我的幻想视觉还需加入
08:44
my visualization可视化 turned转身
to the emotional情绪化 component零件
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徒手独攀中的情绪管理。
08:46
of a potential潜在 solo独奏.
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也就是说,如果我爬上去
发现太吓人了怎么办?
08:48
Basically基本上, what if I got up there
and it was too scary害怕?
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如果我精疲力竭了怎么办?
08:51
What if I was too tired?
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如果我没法做出
那个踢腿动作怎么办?
08:52
What if I couldn't不能 quite相当 make the kick?
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我需要当我还能在地面上
理智思考时设想每一种可能性,
08:54
I had to consider考虑 every一切 possibility可能性
while I was safely安然 on the ground地面,
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因为当如此情况真的来临时,
我是没有绳索保险的,
08:57
so that when the time came来了 and I was
actually其实 making制造 the moves移动 without a rope,
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也就没有空间让我迟疑片刻。
09:01
there was no room房间 for doubt怀疑 to creep爬行 in.
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迟疑便是恐惧的先兆,
09:03
Doubt怀疑 is the precursor先导 to fear恐惧,
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我知道如果我想体验完美,
我将不能拥有任何恐惧。
09:04
and I knew知道 that I couldn't不能 experience经验
my perfect完善 moment时刻 if I was afraid害怕.
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我必须在幻想视觉中排练
足够多次来解决所有迟疑。
09:08
I had to visualize想象 and rehearse排练
enough足够 to remove去掉 all doubt怀疑.
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但是超出除了那些问题,
我还会幻想
09:11
But beyond that, I also
visualized可视化 how it would feel
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如果最后发现
这计划不可行怎么办。
09:13
if it never seemed似乎 doable可行.
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如果经历了这么多准备工作后,
我胆怯了怎么办?
09:15
What if, after so much work,
I was afraid害怕 to try?
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如果一切准备都是徒劳怎么办?
09:19
What if I was wasting浪费 my time
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09:20
and I would never feel comfortable自在
in such这样 an exposed裸露 position位置?
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如果在这样的环境下
我没办法冷静面对怎么办?
这些问题太难回答了。
09:24
There were no easy简单 answers答案,
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但是酋长岩本身对于我就是答案,
它本身就值得我的付出。
09:25
but El萨尔瓦多 Cap meant意味着 enough足够 to me
that I would put in the work and find out.
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我还有其他一些更
乏味的准备工作。
09:29
Some of my preparations准备 were more mundane平凡.
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这是我朋友康拉德·安克
09:31
This is a photo照片 of my friend朋友 Conrad康拉德 Anker安克
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背着一个空双肩包从
酋长岩底部爬上来。
09:33
climbing攀登 up the bottom底部 of El萨尔瓦多 Cap
with an empty backpack背包.
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我们花一整天的时间
09:36
We spent花费 the day climbing攀登 together一起
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攀爬到一个位于整面墙中间的一道裂缝,
09:38
to a specific具体 crack裂纹
in the middle中间 of the wall
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那里有不少松动的石头夹于裂缝之间,
09:40
that was choked哽咽 with loose疏松 rocks岩石
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这让这个区域充满了潜在的危险,
09:41
that made制作 that section部分
difficult and potentially可能 dangerous危险,
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因为任何失误都有
可能导致石子的掉落,
09:44
because any missed错过 step
might威力 knock a rock to the ground地面
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对下面的徒步者或者
攀爬者造成致命的伤害。
09:47
and kill a passing通过 climber登山者 or hiker徒步 旅行 者.
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所以我们小心翼翼地移除了
那些石头,装在背包里,
09:49
So we carefully小心 removed去除 the rocks岩石,
loaded them into the pack
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然后带回地面。
09:52
and rappelled绕绳下降 back down.
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09:53
Take a second第二 to imagine想像
how ridiculous荒谬 it feels感觉
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你想想这场景多么荒谬,
09:55
to climb 1,500 feet up a wall
just to fill a backpack背包 full充分 of rocks岩石.
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你爬至450米高只是
为了装一背包石头回家。
(笑声)
09:58
(Laughter笑声)
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背着一包石头已经很不容易了,
10:00
It's never that easy简单 to carry携带
a pack full充分 of rocks岩石 around.
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在悬崖峭壁上是格外的难。
10:03
It's even harder更难 on the side of a cliff悬崖.
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它可能看起来很愚蠢,
但是这是必须完成的工作。
10:05
It may可能 have felt silly愚蠢,
but it still had to get doneDONE.
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如果要去进行无绳索攀岩,
10:07
I needed需要 everything to feel perfect完善
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我必须要一切都感觉完美。
10:09
if I was ever going to climb
the route路线 without a rope.
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在我为单人徒手攀岩酋长岩
全力以赴地准备了两个季节后,
10:12
After two seasons季节 of working加工 specifically特别
toward a potential潜在 free自由 solo独奏 of El萨尔瓦多 Cap,
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我终于完成了我所有的准备工作。
10:15
I finally最后 finished all my preparations准备.
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我知道整条路线的
每一个手点和脚点,
10:17
I knew知道 every一切 handhold手持
and foothold立足 on the whole整个 route路线,
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我明确的知道我该怎么做。
10:20
and I knew知道 exactly究竟 what to do.
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简单来说,我准备好了。
10:21
Basically基本上, I was ready准备.
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10:23
It was time to solo独奏 El萨尔瓦多 Cap.
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是时候进行酋长岩的自由独攀了。
10:25
On June六月 3, 2017,
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在2017年6月3日,
我起得很早,吃了我日常的
牛奶什锦和水果早餐
10:27
I woke醒来 up early, ate my usual通常
breakfast早餐 of muesli穆斯利 and fruit水果
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在太阳升起之前
到达了峭壁的脚下。
10:31
and made制作 it to the base基础
of the wall before sunrise日出.
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我向上看的时候感觉到无比自信。
10:33
I felt confident信心 as I looked看着 up the wall.
235
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1976
随着我开始攀爬,
我的感觉越来越好。
10:35
I felt even better as I started开始 climbing攀登.
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10:38
About 500 feet up, I reached到达 a slab
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在爬了150米高时,
我遇到了一个大石面,
与半穹顶那一块
石面难题十分相似,
10:40
very similar类似 to the one that had
given特定 me so much trouble麻烦 on Half Dome拱顶,
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但这一次很不同。
10:43
but this time was different不同.
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我早就分析了所有的可能性,
包括几百英尺的迂回选项。
10:45
I'd scouted球探 every一切 option选项, including包含
hundreds数以百计 of feet of wall to either side.
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我明确地知道我
该做些什么,怎么做。
10:49
I knew知道 exactly究竟 what to do
and how to do it.
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我没有迟疑,
直接爬了上去。
10:51
I had no doubts疑惑.
I just climbed爬上 right through通过.
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10:54
Even the difficult and strenuous费劲
sections部分 passed通过 by with ease缓解.
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就算是最难的部分
我也轻松通过。
我完美地执行了我的日常。
10:57
I was perfectly完美 executing执行 my routine常规.
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11:00
I rested休息 for a moment时刻
below下面 the Boulder漂砾 Problem问题
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我在巨石问题下面休息了一会儿,
然后我就直接爬了上去就如同
我有绳索保护时的练习一样。
11:02
and then climbed爬上 it just as I had
practiced so many许多 times with the rope on.
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我的腿毫不犹豫地踢出
并踏上了了左侧的墙面,
11:06
My foot脚丫子 shot射击 across横过 to the wall
on the left without hesitation犹豫,
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我知道我成功地做到了。
11:09
and I knew知道 that I had doneDONE it.
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11:12
Climbing攀登 Half Dome拱顶 had been a big goal目标
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攀爬半穹顶是一个很大的目标,
我完成了,
11:14
and I did it,
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但我没有得到我真正想要的。
11:16
but I didn't get what I really wanted.
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我没有真正掌握精湛的技艺。
11:17
I didn't achieve实现 mastery征服.
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我迟疑了我害怕了,
这不是我想要的体验。
11:19
I was hesitant and afraid害怕, and it wasn't
the experience经验 that I wanted.
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但酋长岩这次不一样。
11:22
But El萨尔瓦多 Cap was different不同.
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在距离登顶600英尺时,我已经
感受到这山体在向我祝贺胜利。
11:24
With 600 feet to go, I felt like the
mountain was offering me a victory胜利 lap膝部.
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我平稳且精准地攀爬着,
11:28
I climbed爬上 with a smooth光滑 precision精确
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11:30
and enjoyed享受 the sounds声音 of the birds鸟类
swooping俯冲 around the cliff悬崖.
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我享受鸟儿们在
峭壁旁俯冲的声音。
这全部都像是对胜利的庆祝。
11:32
It all felt like a celebration庆典.
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然后我在3小时56分钟
11:34
And then I reached到达 the summit首脑
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荣耀的攀爬后成功地登顶了。
11:35
after three hours小时 and 56 minutes分钟
of glorious辉煌 climbing攀登.
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这是我想要的攀登,
这感觉才像领悟。
11:38
It was the climb that I wanted,
and it felt like mastery征服.
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谢谢。
11:41
Thank you.
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(掌声)
11:42
(Applause掌声)
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Translated by He Huang
Reviewed by Homer Li

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ABOUT THE SPEAKER
Alex Honnold - Rock climber
Alex Honnold is a professional rock climber whose audacious free-solo ascents of America's biggest cliffs have made him one of the world's most recognized climbers.

Why you should listen

A gifted but hard-working athlete, Honnold is known as much for his humble, self-effacing attitude as he is for the dizzyingly tall cliffs he has climbed without a rope to protect him if he falls. Honnold has been profiled by 60 Minutes and the New York Times, featured on the cover of National Geographic, appeared in international television commercials and starred in numerous adventure films, including the Emmy-nominated Alone on the Wall. He is the subject of the documentary feature Free Solo, which was released by National Geographic Documentary Films.

Honnold is the founder of the Honnold Foundation, a nonprofit that promotes solar energy access worldwide. To this day, he maintains his simple "dirtbag-climber" existence, living out of his van, donating a significant portion of his income to the Honnold Foundation and traveling the world in search of the next great vertical adventure.

More profile about the speaker
Alex Honnold | Speaker | TED.com