ABOUT THE SPEAKER
Alex Honnold - Rock climber
Alex Honnold is a professional rock climber whose audacious free-solo ascents of America's biggest cliffs have made him one of the world's most recognized climbers.

Why you should listen

A gifted but hard-working athlete, Honnold is known as much for his humble, self-effacing attitude as he is for the dizzyingly tall cliffs he has climbed without a rope to protect him if he falls. Honnold has been profiled by 60 Minutes and the New York Times, featured on the cover of National Geographic, appeared in international television commercials and starred in numerous adventure films, including the Emmy-nominated Alone on the Wall. He is the subject of the documentary feature Free Solo, which was released by National Geographic Documentary Films.

Honnold is the founder of the Honnold Foundation, a nonprofit that promotes solar energy access worldwide. To this day, he maintains his simple "dirtbag-climber" existence, living out of his van, donating a significant portion of his income to the Honnold Foundation and traveling the world in search of the next great vertical adventure.

More profile about the speaker
Alex Honnold | Speaker | TED.com
TED2018

Alex Honnold: How I climbed a 3,000-foot vertical cliff -- without ropes

艾力克斯霍諾德: 我如何不用繩索攀爬上三千英呎的垂直峭壁

Filmed:
8,433,060 views

想像只有你獨自處在三千英呎高的垂直峭壁正中間——如果你掉下去,沒有繩索拉住你。對職業攀岩者艾力克斯霍諾德而言,這個讓人暈眩的景象,是他十年夢想的高潮。在這場讓人寒毛直豎的演說中,他訴說如何爬上酋長岩頂峰的故事,完成了史上最危險的自由獨攀壯舉之一。
- Rock climber
Alex Honnold is a professional rock climber whose audacious free-solo ascents of America's biggest cliffs have made him one of the world's most recognized climbers. Full bio

Double-click the English transcript below to play the video.

00:13
Hello你好. I'd like to show顯示 you guys
30 seconds of the best最好 day of my life.
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哈囉。我想先讓大家
看一段三十秒的影片,
這是我人生中最棒的一天。
00:50
(Applause掌聲)
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(掌聲)
00:56
So that was El薩爾瓦多 Capitan
in California's加州 Yosemite優勝美地 National國民 Park公園,
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那是加州優勝美地
國家公園的「酋長岩」,
01:00
and in case案件 you couldn't不能 tell,
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萬一你們看不出來,
我是獨自攀爬,且沒有用繩索,
01:02
I was climbing攀登 by myself without a rope,
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01:04
a style樣式 of a climbing攀登
known已知 as free自由 soloing索洛辛.
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這種攀爬方式稱為「自由獨攀」。
01:06
That was the culmination大成
of a nearly幾乎 decade-long長達十年之久 dream夢想,
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那是我近十年夢想的巔峰結晶。
01:09
and in the video視頻 I'm over
2,500 feet off the ground地面.
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影片中的我離地面
超過兩千五百英呎。
01:12
Seems似乎 scary害怕? Yeah, it is,
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似乎很可怕?的確,
01:14
which哪一個 is why I spent花費 so many許多 years年份
dreaming做夢 about soloing索洛辛 El薩爾瓦多 Cap
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這就是為什麼我夢想要獨攀酋長岩
這麼多年,卻一直沒有行動。
01:17
and not actually其實 doing it.
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01:18
But on the day that that video視頻 was taken採取,
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但在拍攝那支影片的那一天,
01:21
it didn't feel scary害怕 at all.
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感覺一點也不可怕。
01:22
It felt as comfortable自在 and natural自然
as a walk步行 in the park公園,
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感覺就像在公園散步一樣舒服自然,
01:25
which哪一個 is what most folks鄉親
were doing in Yosemite優勝美地 that day.
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那天在優勝美地大部分人
也的確只是在公園散步。
01:28
Today今天 I'd like to talk about
how I was able能夠 to feel so comfortable自在
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今天,我想要談談我
怎麼能夠感到這麼舒服,
及我如何克服恐懼。
01:31
and how I overcame克服了 my fear恐懼.
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我會先簡短說明我如何變成攀岩者,
01:32
I'll start開始 with a very brief簡要 version
of how I became成為 a climber登山者,
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接下來說的故事則是我
近期兩次最重要的自由獨攀。
01:35
and then tell the story故事
of my two most significant重大 free自由 solos獨奏.
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兩次都很成功,
這就是為什麼我能在這裡。
01:38
They were both successful成功,
which哪一個 is why I'm here.
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(笑聲)
01:41
(Laughter笑聲)
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01:43
But the first felt largely大部分 unsatisfying不滿意,
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但第一次感覺非常不滿足,
01:47
whereas the second第二, El薩爾瓦多 Cap, was by far
the most fulfilling履行 day of my life.
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而第二次,爬酋長岩,
是我人生目前為止最滿足的一天。
01:51
Through通過 these two climbs攀登,
you'll你會 see my process處理 for managing管理的 fear恐懼.
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透過這兩次攀爬,
你們可以了解我管理恐懼的過程。
01:55
So I started開始 climbing攀登 in a gym健身房
when I was around 10 years年份 old,
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我約十歲時,就開始
在健身房中攀岩,
意即二十多年來
我的生活一直以攀岩為中心。
01:57
which哪一個 means手段 that my life
has been centered中心 on climbing攀登
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02:00
for more than 20 years年份.
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近十年的時間,
我多半是在室內攀爬,
02:01
After nearly幾乎 a decade
of climbing攀登 mostly大多 indoors在室內,
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之後,我轉向戶外,
漸漸開始了自由獨攀。
02:04
I made製作 the transition過渡 to the outdoors在戶外
and gradually逐漸 started開始 free自由 soloing索洛辛.
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隨時間,我建立起舒適感,
02:07
I built內置 up my comfort安慰 over time
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慢慢地開始嘗試更大、
更有挑戰性的山壁。
02:09
and slowly慢慢地 took on
bigger and more challenging具有挑戰性的 walls牆壁.
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在我之前已有許多自由獨攀者,
02:11
And there have been
many許多 free自由 soloists獨唱 before me,
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有很多人可以當鼓舞我的榜樣。
02:14
so I had plenty豐富 of
inspiration靈感 to draw from.
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到 2008 年,我已爬過大部分
他們過去獨攀過的優勝美地路線,
02:16
But by 2008, I'd repeated重複
most of their previous以前 solos獨奏 in Yosemite優勝美地
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我開始想像攀爬新的地形。
02:19
and was starting開始 to imagine想像
breaking破壞 into new terrain地形.
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很明顯的第一選擇就是半圓丘,
02:21
The obvious明顯 first choice選擇 was Half Dome拱頂,
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它是個代表性的兩千英呎山壁,
稱霸在山谷的東側。
02:23
an iconic標誌性的 2,000-foot-腳丫子 wall
the lords領主 over the east end結束 of the valley.
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02:27
The problem問題, though雖然 also the allure引誘,
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它的問題,也是它的魅力所在,
02:29
was that it was too big.
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就是它太大了。
02:30
I didn't really know how to prepare準備
for a potential潛在 free自由 solo獨奏.
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我不知道要如何為一趟
潛在的自由獨攀行程做準備。
02:33
So I decided決定 to skip跳躍 the preparations準備
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所以我決定跳過準備階段,
直接上去冒險。
02:35
and just go up there
and have an adventure冒險.
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02:38
I figured想通 I would rise上升 to the occasion場合,
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我覺得我可以迎接挑戰,
02:40
which哪一個, unsurprisingly勿庸置疑,
was not the best最好 strategy戰略.
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結果,並不意外,
那並非最好的策略。
02:43
I did at least最小 climb the route路線
roped拉攏 up with a friend朋友 two days before
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我至少有在兩天前和一位朋友
綁著繩索,爬過那段路線,
02:47
just to make sure
that I knew知道 roughly大致 where to go
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只要確保我大致上知道方向,
且確保我在身體上能辦得到。
02:49
and that I could physically物理 do it.
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02:51
But when I came來了 back
by myself two days later後來,
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但兩天後我獨自再次返回時,
02:53
I decided決定 that I didn't
want to go that way.
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我決定不走那條路。
02:55
I knew知道 that there was a 300-foot-腳丫子 variation變異
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我知道有一條
三百英呎的替代路線,
02:57
that circled盤旋 around
one of the hardest最難 parts部分 of the climb.
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它會繞過攀爬路線中
最困難的部分。
我突然決定要跳過困難的部分,
選擇走替代路線,
03:00
I suddenly突然 decided決定 to skip跳躍 the hard part部分
and take the variation變異,
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即使我以前沒有爬過那條路,
03:03
even though雖然 I'd never climbed爬上 it before,
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但我馬上就開始自我懷疑了。
03:05
but I immediately立即 began開始 to doubt懷疑 myself.
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03:07
Imagine想像 being存在 by yourself你自己
in the dead center中央 of a 2,000-foot-腳丫子 face面對,
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想像你獨自一人
在兩千英呎表面的正中心,
03:10
wondering想知道 if you're lost丟失.
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納悶你是否迷路了。
03:12
(Laughter笑聲)
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(笑聲)
03:13
Thankfully感激地, it was
pretty漂亮 much the right way
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謝天謝地,我大致上沒走錯路,
03:16
and I circled盤旋 back to the route路線.
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我繞回了原來的路線。
03:18
I was slightly rattled叮叮噹當,
I was pretty漂亮 rattled叮叮噹當,
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我有點驚恐,我蠻驚恐的,
03:20
but I tried試著 not to let it
bother me too much
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但我試著不要讓
驚恐的感覺煩擾我,
03:23
because I knew知道 that all the hardest最難
climbing攀登 was up at the top最佳.
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因為我知道攀爬
最困難的部分是在頂端。
我需要保持沉著。
03:26
I needed需要 to stay composed.
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03:28
It was a beautiful美麗 September九月 morning早上,
and as I climbed爬上 higher更高,
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那是個美好的九月早晨,
我越爬越高,
我能聽到頂峰上傳來
遊客聊天說笑的聲音。
03:30
I could hear the sounds聲音 of tourists遊客
chatting聊天的 and laughing on the summit首腦.
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他們都是從背後的
正常小道步行上去的,
03:34
They'd他們會 all hiked上調 up
the normal正常 trail落後 on the back,
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我打算在下山時也要走那條小道。
03:36
which哪一個 I was planning規劃 on using運用
for my descent降落.
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但在我和頂峰之間有著
平平的花崗岩斜岩板。
03:38
But between之間 me and the summit首腦
lay鋪設 a blank空白 slab of granite花崗岩.
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上面沒有裂縫或是邊緣可以抓,
03:41
There were no cracks裂縫
or edges邊緣 to hold保持 on to,
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只有小小的漣漪紋理,
在這近乎垂直的山壁上。
03:43
just small ripples漣漪 of texture質地
up a slightly less than vertical垂直 wall.
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我把性命託付於攀登鞋
和平滑花崗岩之間的磨擦力。
03:47
I had to trust相信 my life to the friction摩擦
between之間 my climbing攀登 shoes
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03:50
and the smooth光滑 granite花崗岩.
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我很小心地保持平衡向上爬,
03:51
I carefully小心 balanced均衡 my way upward向上,
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在每次小小的貼踩之間,
前後移動我的重心。
03:53
shifting my weight重量 back and forth向前
between之間 the small smears塗片.
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但接著,我遇到了一個
我不太信任的踩腳處。
03:55
But then I reached到達 a foothold立足
that I didn't quite相當 trust相信.
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03:58
Two days ago, I'd have just
stepped加強 right up on it,
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兩天前,我可能
就會直接踩上去了,
但那是因為我有綁繩索。
04:01
but that would have been with a rope on.
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現在,那個踩腳處
感覺太小又太滑。
04:02
Now it felt too small and too slippery.
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我懷疑當我把體重壓上去
腳還能不能踩得住。
04:04
I doubted懷疑 that my foot腳丫子
would stay on if I weighted加權 it.
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我考慮再向旁邊一英呎的地方,
但那裡似乎更糟。
04:07
I considered考慮 a foot腳丫子 further進一步 to the side,
which哪一個 seemed似乎 worse更差.
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我交換了腳,試圖再向外一英呎。
那裡似乎還更糟。
04:10
I switched交換的 my feet and tried試著
a foot腳丫子 further進一步 out.
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04:12
It seemed似乎 even worse更差.
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我開始慌了。
04:13
I started開始 to panic恐慌.
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我能聽到人們的笑聲
從我上面的頂峰傳來。
04:15
I could hear people laughing
on the summit首腦 just above以上 me.
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在任何地方,都比
在這片斜岩板上好。
04:17
I wanted to be anywhere隨地 but on that slab.
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04:19
My mind心神 was racing賽跑 in every一切 direction方向.
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我的腦袋轉個不停。
04:21
I knew知道 what I had to do,
but I was too afraid害怕 to do it.
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我知道我該怎麼做,
但我太害怕了不敢去做。
我只需要靠右腳站好。
04:24
I just had to stand up on my right foot腳丫子.
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04:26
And so after what felt like an eternity永恆,
I accepted公認 what I had to do
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在經過一段彷彿是永恆的掙扎
之後,我接受了我該做的事,
04:30
and I stood站在 up on the right foot腳丫子,
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我靠右腳站好了,
04:31
and it didn't slip, and so I didn't die,
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結果沒有打滑,所以我沒有死,
04:33
and that move移動 marked the end結束
of the hardest最難 climbing攀登.
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這段攀岩最困難的部分
就到此告一段落。
04:36
And so I charged帶電 from there
towards the summit首腦.
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從那裡,我朝向頂峰挺進。
04:38
And so normally一般 when you summit首腦 Half Dome拱頂,
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通常,當你登上半圓丘時,
04:41
you have a rope and a bunch
of climbing攀登 gear齒輪 on you,
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你身上會有一根繩索
和一堆攀岩裝備,
遊客會驚訝地發出聲音,
圍著你拍照。
04:43
and tourists遊客 gasp喘氣 and they
flock around you for photos相片.
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這次,我砰一聲翻過邊緣,
沒穿上衣,喘吁吁,肌肉賁張。
04:46
This time I popped膨化 over the edge邊緣
shirtless赤膊上陣, panting氣吁吁的, jacked抬高.
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我很興奮,但大家都面不改色。
04:49
I was amped安營, but nobody沒有人 batted擊中的 an eye.
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04:51
(Laughter笑聲)
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(笑聲)
04:57
I looked看著 like a lost丟失 hiker徒步 旅行 者
that was too close to the edge邊緣.
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我看起來像是個迷路的健行者,
站得太靠近邊緣。
04:59
I was surrounded包圍 by people
talking on cell細胞 phones手機 and having picnics野餐.
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我身邊圍繞著人群,
不是在講手機就是在野餐。
我好像在購物中心裡。
05:04
I felt like I was in a mall購物中心.
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05:06
(Laughter笑聲)
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(笑聲)
05:08
I took off my tight climbing攀登 shoes
and started開始 hiking徒步旅行 back down,
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我脫下了我很緊的攀岩鞋,
開始向下步行,
此時有人叫住了我。
05:11
and that's when people stopped停止 me.
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「你赤腳步行?真是硬漢。」
05:13
"You're hiking徒步旅行 barefoot赤腳?
That's so hard-core硬核."
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05:15
(Laughter笑聲)
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(笑聲)
05:22
I didn't bother to explain說明,
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我也懶得解釋,
05:24
but that night in my climbing攀登 journal日誌,
I duly適時地 noted注意 my free自由 solo獨奏 of Half Dome拱頂,
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但那晚,我在我的攀岩日誌中
審慎記載了我的半圓丘自由獨攀,
05:28
but I included包括 a frownyfrowny face面對
and a comment評論, "Do better?"
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但我還畫上了一個哭臉,
加註「做更好?」
05:33
I'd succeeded成功 in the solo獨奏
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我的獨攀成功了,它被當成
重大的第一次攀爬來慶祝。
05:34
and it was celebrated著名
as a big first in climbing攀登.
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有些朋友後來為此
製作了一支影片。
05:36
Some friends朋友 later後來 made製作 a film電影 about it.
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05:38
But I was unsatisfied不滿意.
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但我不滿足。
05:40
I was disappointed失望 in my performance性能,
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我對我的表現很失望,
因為我知道我有僥倖之處。
05:42
because I knew知道 that I had
gotten得到 away with something.
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我不想要當個幸運的攀岩者,
我想要當個偉大的攀岩者。
05:44
I didn't want to be a lucky幸運 climber登山者.
I wanted to be a great climber登山者.
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我休了一年多的假,
沒有去自由獨攀,
05:47
I actually其實 took the next下一個 year or so
off from free自由 soloing索洛辛,
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因為我知道我不應該
養成依賴運氣的習慣。
05:50
because I knew知道 that I shouldn't不能
make a habit習慣 of relying依托 on luck運氣.
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但即使我不常去獨攀,
05:53
But even though雖然
I wasn't soloing索洛辛 very much,
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我已經開始想著酋長岩了。
05:55
I'd already已經 started開始 to think about El薩爾瓦多 Cap.
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我內心深處一直把它
視為是獨攀的至寶。
05:57
It was always in the back of my mind心神
as the obvious明顯 crown王冠 jewel of solos獨奏.
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它是世界上最惹人注目的山壁。
06:01
It's the most striking引人注目 wall in the world世界.
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06:03
Each year, for the next下一個 seven years年份,
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接下來的七年,每一年
06:05
I'd think, "This is the year
that I'm going to solo獨奏 El薩爾瓦多 Cap."
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我都會想:「今年
我要去獨攀酋長岩。」
06:08
And then I would drive駕駛 into Yosemite優勝美地,
look up at the wall, and think,
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接著,我會開車去優勝美地,
抬頭看著山壁,
心想:「門都沒有。」
06:11
"No frickin'frickin“ way."
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06:13
(Laughter笑聲)
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(笑聲)
06:15
It's too big and too scary害怕.
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它太大了,太駭人了。
06:17
But eventually終於 I came來了 to accept接受 that
I wanted to test測試 myself against反對 El薩爾瓦多 Cap.
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但最終,我漸漸接受我想要
測試我自己對抗酋長岩的能耐。
06:21
It represented代表 true真正 mastery征服,
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它代表著真正的征服,
06:23
but I needed需要 it to feel different不同.
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但我需要有不同的感覺。
06:25
I didn't want to get away with anything
or barely僅僅 squeak by.
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我並不想要有任何僥倖
或是勉強過關。
06:28
This time I wanted to do it right.
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這次我想要把它做對。
06:31
The thing that makes品牌 El薩爾瓦多 Cap
so intimidating嚇人
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酋長岩之所以令人生畏,
06:33
is the sheer絕對 scale規模 of the wall.
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完全是因為山壁的規模。
大部分的攀岩者要花三到五天
來攀登三千英呎的垂直花崗岩。
06:35
Most climbers登山者 take three to five days
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06:36
to ascend the 3,000 feet
of vertical垂直 granite花崗岩.
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06:39
The idea理念 of setting設置 out
up a wall of that size尺寸
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向上攀爬這麼巨大的山壁,
06:41
with nothing but shoes and
a chalk粉筆 bag seemed似乎 impossible不可能.
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且只有鞋子和一個攀岩粉袋,
似乎是不可能的。
06:45
3,000 feet of climbing攀登 represents代表
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攀爬三千英呎,就表示有
數千個手和腳的移動動作,
06:46
thousands數千 of distinct不同
hand and foot腳丫子 movements運動,
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多到很難記住。
06:49
which哪一個 is a lot to remember記得.
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06:50
Many許多 of the moves移動 I knew知道
through通過 sheer絕對 repetition重複.
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我會記住許多移動動作
只是因為不斷重覆。
06:52
I'd climbed爬上 El薩爾瓦多 Cap maybe 50 times
over the previous以前 decade with a rope.
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過去十年,我用繩索爬過
酋長岩大約五十次,
06:56
But this photo照片 shows節目 my preferred首選
method方法 of rehearsing排練 the moves移動.
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但這張照片呈現的
是我偏好的排練動作方式。
我在頂峰,準備用一千英呎的
繩索向下爬,挑戰這個表面,
06:59
I'm on the summit首腦,
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07:00
about to repel擊退 down the face面對
with over a thousand feet of rope
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花一天的時間自己練習。
07:03
to spend the day practicing.
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07:05
Once一旦 I found發現 sequences序列
that felt secure安全 and repeatable重複,
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一旦找到感覺很安全且可重覆的
順序,我就得記住它們。
07:07
I had to memorize記憶 them.
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07:09
I had to make sure that they were
so deeply ingrained根深蒂固 within me
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我得要確保它們都
深深刻在我的腦海中,
不能有任何失誤的可能。
07:12
that there was no possibility可能性 of error錯誤.
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我不想要納悶我是否
爬對方向、用到最好的洞。
07:13
I didn't want to be wondering想知道
if I was going the right way
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07:16
or using運用 the best最好 holds持有.
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我得讓一切都感覺像自動的一樣。
07:18
I needed需要 everything to feel automatic自動.
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07:20
Climbing攀登 with a rope
is a largely大部分 physical物理 effort功夫.
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用繩索攀爬,主要就是靠體力。
07:22
You just have to be strong強大 enough足夠
to hold保持 on and make the movements運動 upward向上.
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你只要夠強壯可以抓穩
並向上移動即可。
但自由獨攀有更大
一部分是在腦中。
07:26
But free自由 soloing索洛辛
plays播放 out more in the mind心神.
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體力的需求大致上差不多。
07:28
The physical物理 effort功夫 is largely大部分 the same相同.
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你的身體還是在攀爬同一個山壁。
07:30
Your body身體 is still climbing攀登 the same相同 wall.
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07:32
But staying calm冷靜
and performing執行 at your best最好
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但在你知道犯錯就可能
意味著死亡的情況下,
07:34
when you know that
any mistake錯誤 could mean death死亡
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還要保持冷靜和做出最佳表現,
07:36
requires要求 a certain某些 kind of mindset心態.
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這就需要某種心態了。
07:38
(Laughter笑聲)
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(笑聲)
07:41
That's not supposed應該 to be funny滑稽,
but if it is, it is.
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這不應該是好笑的,
不過如果好笑也罷。
07:43
(Laughter笑聲)
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(笑聲)
07:46
I worked工作 to cultivate培育 that mindset心態
through通過 visualization可視化,
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我努力透過視覺化
來培養那種心態,
07:49
which哪一個 basically基本上 just means手段 imagining想像
the entire整個 experience經驗 of soloing索洛辛 the wall.
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基本上,視覺化就表示想像
獨攀那山壁的整個經歷。
07:53
Partially部分, that was to help me
remember記得 all the holds持有,
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這麼做有一部分是在
幫我記住所有的洞,
但主要是在感覺我手抓到的
每一個洞是什麼樣的結構,
07:55
but mostly大多 visualization可視化
was about feeling感覺 the texture質地
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07:58
of each hold保持 in my hand
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並想像我的腿向外伸出
再把腳放下來的感受。
07:59
and imagining想像 the sensation感覺 of my leg
reaching到達 out and placing配售 my foot腳丫子 just so.
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08:03
I'd imagine想像 it all like a choreographed編排
dance舞蹈 thousands數千 of feet up.
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我會把它想像成編好的舞步,
只是在幾千英呎高。
08:06
The most difficult part部分 of the whole整個 route路線
was called the Boulder漂礫 Problem問題.
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整條路線中最困難的部分,
被稱為「抱石問題」。
它離地約兩千英呎,
08:10
It was about 2,000 feet off the ground地面
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包含有整條路線上
最困難的身體動作:
08:12
and consisted of the hardest最難
physical物理 moves移動 on the whole整個 route路線:
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踩踏處又小又滑,手抓處不理想,
做長距離的拉式動作。
08:15
long pulls between之間 poor較差的 handholds手持設備
with very small, slippery feet.
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我說手抓處不理想的意思是:
08:18
This is what I mean by a poor較差的 handhold手持:
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08:20
an edge邊緣 smaller than the width寬度
of a pencil鉛筆 but facing面對 downward向下
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邊緣比鉛筆的寬度
還要小,且洞口向下,
08:23
that I had to press up into with my thumb拇指.
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我得要把我的大拇指向上推進去。
08:26
But that wasn't even the hardest最難 part部分.
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但那還不是最難的部分。
08:28
The crux癥結 culminated高潮 in a karate空手道 kick
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難關的高潮在於用我的左腳
08:29
with my left foot腳丫子 over to the inside
of an adjacent corner,
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做空手道踢腳,
踢向鄰接角落的內側,
08:32
a maneuver演習 that required需要 a high degree
of precision精確 and flexibility靈活性,
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這一招需很高的精準度和柔軟度,
08:35
enough足夠 so that I'd been doing
a nightly每夜 stretching拉伸 routine常規
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我提早整整一年,
晚上都為此在做例行的伸展,
08:38
for a full充分 year ahead of time
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確保我的腳能很舒適地搆著目標。
08:40
to make sure that I could comfortably舒服
make the reach達到 with my leg.
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當我練習動作的時候,
08:43
As I practiced the moves移動,
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08:44
my visualization可視化 turned轉身
to the emotional情緒化 component零件
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我的視覺化會轉換為
潛在獨攀的情緒成分。
08:46
of a potential潛在 solo獨奏.
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08:48
Basically基本上, what if I got up there
and it was too scary害怕?
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基本上,如果我爬上去之後,
發現太可怕怎麼辦?
08:51
What if I was too tired?
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我太累了怎麼辦?我做不太到
那個踢的動作怎麼辦?
08:52
What if I couldn't不能 quite相當 make the kick?
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08:54
I had to consider考慮 every一切 possibility可能性
while I was safely安然 on the ground地面,
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我還安全地待在地上時,
就得要考量所有的可能性,
等時候到了,我才能真正
不靠繩索就做出那些動作,
08:57
so that when the time came來了 and I was
actually其實 making製造 the moves移動 without a rope,
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沒有任何懷疑的空間。
09:01
there was no room房間 for doubt懷疑 to creep爬行 in.
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懷疑就是恐懼的前兆,
09:03
Doubt懷疑 is the precursor先導 to fear恐懼,
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我知道如果害怕
就不能體驗到完美的時刻。
09:04
and I knew知道 that I couldn't不能 experience經驗
my perfect完善 moment時刻 if I was afraid害怕.
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我得要做視覺化,
做足夠演練,消除所有懷疑。
09:08
I had to visualize想像 and rehearse排練
enough足夠 to remove去掉 all doubt懷疑.
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但在那之外,我也會視覺化想像
09:11
But beyond that, I also
visualized可視化 how it would feel
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看似做不到時的感覺。
09:13
if it never seemed似乎 doable可行.
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09:15
What if, after so much work,
I was afraid害怕 to try?
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萬一,做了這麼多努力之後,
我卻害怕不敢試呢?
萬一我是在浪費我的時間,
09:19
What if I was wasting浪費 my time
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09:20
and I would never feel comfortable自在
in such這樣 an exposed裸露 position位置?
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我永遠不可能在這麼
無掩蔽的狀況下感到舒適呢?
09:24
There were no easy簡單 answers答案,
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沒有簡單的答案。
09:25
but El薩爾瓦多 Cap meant意味著 enough足夠 to me
that I would put in the work and find out.
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但酋長岩對我意義重大,
讓我願意努力去找答案。
09:29
Some of my preparations準備 were more mundane平凡.
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有一些準備工作十分平凡。
09:31
This is a photo照片 of my friend朋友 Conrad康拉德 Anker安克
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這張照片中的人
是我朋友康瑞安克,
09:33
climbing攀登 up the bottom底部 of El薩爾瓦多 Cap
with an empty backpack背包.
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背著空的背包從
酋長岩的底部向上爬。
09:36
We spent花費 the day climbing攀登 together一起
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我們那天一起攀爬到
山壁中間一個特定的裂縫處,
09:38
to a specific具體 crack裂紋
in the middle中間 of the wall
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它被鬆動的岩石給塞住,
09:40
that was choked哽咽 with loose疏鬆 rocks岩石
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讓那個區段很難爬
且有潛在的危險性,
09:41
that made製作 that section部分
difficult and potentially可能 dangerous危險,
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因為如果沒踩好,
就可能讓一塊岩石向下落,
09:44
because any missed錯過 step
might威力 knock a rock to the ground地面
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砸死路過的攀岩者或登山客。
09:47
and kill a passing通過 climber登山者 or hiker徒步 旅行 者.
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所以我們小心地把岩石
移除,放到背包中,
09:49
So we carefully小心 removed去除 the rocks岩石,
loaded them into the pack
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再用繩索下降下來。
09:52
and rappelled繞繩下降 back down.
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09:53
Take a second第二 to imagine想像
how ridiculous荒謬 it feels感覺
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想像一下這感覺有多可笑,
09:55
to climb 1,500 feet up a wall
just to fill a backpack背包 full充分 of rocks岩石.
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爬上一千五百英呎的山壁,
只為了把背包裝滿岩石。
09:58
(Laughter笑聲)
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(笑聲)
10:00
It's never that easy簡單 to carry攜帶
a pack full充分 of rocks岩石 around.
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平常背著一袋岩石就很不輕鬆了。
在峭壁邊上更是困難。
10:03
It's even harder更難 on the side of a cliff懸崖.
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感覺可能很蠢,
但這是必需要做的。
10:05
It may可能 have felt silly愚蠢,
but it still had to get doneDONE.
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若我真的要不用繩索去攀爬
那條路線,我得讓一切完美。
10:07
I needed需要 everything to feel perfect完善
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10:09
if I was ever going to climb
the route路線 without a rope.
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我花了兩季的時間
專門準備潛在的酋長岩獨攀,
10:12
After two seasons季節 of working加工 specifically特別
toward a potential潛在 free自由 solo獨奏 of El薩爾瓦多 Cap,
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終於,我把所有的準備做好了。
10:15
I finally最後 finished all my preparations準備.
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我知道整條路線上的
每個手抓處和腳踩處,
10:17
I knew知道 every一切 handhold手持
and foothold立足 on the whole整個 route路線,
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我非常清楚該做什麼。
10:20
and I knew知道 exactly究竟 what to do.
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基本上,我準備好了。
10:21
Basically基本上, I was ready準備.
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10:23
It was time to solo獨奏 El薩爾瓦多 Cap.
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該是獨攀酋長岩的時候了。
10:25
On June六月 3, 2017,
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2017 年 6 月 3 日,
10:27
I woke醒來 up early, ate my usual通常
breakfast早餐 of muesli穆斯利 and fruit水果
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我很早起,吃了平常的
牛奶什錦早餐和水果,
10:31
and made製作 it to the base基礎
of the wall before sunrise日出.
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在日出之前到達了山壁的底部。
10:33
I felt confident信心 as I looked看著 up the wall.
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我抬頭看著山壁時感到自信。
10:35
I felt even better as I started開始 climbing攀登.
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開始攀爬後我更有自信。
10:38
About 500 feet up, I reached到達 a slab
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大約向上爬了五百英呎,
我到達了一塊斜岩板,
10:40
very similar類似 to the one that had
given特定 me so much trouble麻煩 on Half Dome拱頂,
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和半圓丘上給我添很多
麻煩的那一塊很類似,
10:43
but this time was different不同.
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但這次可不一樣。
10:45
I'd scouted球探 every一切 option選項, including包含
hundreds數以百計 of feet of wall to either side.
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我已經偵察過每個選項,
包括兩邊數百英呎的山壁。
10:49
I knew知道 exactly究竟 what to do
and how to do it.
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我很清楚該做什麼以及怎麼做。
10:51
I had no doubts疑惑.
I just climbed爬上 right through通過.
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我毫無懷疑,直接攀爬過去。
10:54
Even the difficult and strenuous費勁
sections部分 passed通過 by with ease緩解.
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即使是困難且費勁的區段,
我也輕鬆通過。
10:57
I was perfectly完美 executing執行 my routine常規.
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我完美地執行例行公事。
11:00
I rested休息 for a moment時刻
below下面 the Boulder漂礫 Problem問題
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我在抱石問題下面休息了一下,
11:02
and then climbed爬上 it just as I had
practiced so many許多 times with the rope on.
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接著,就用我綁著繩索
練習過無數次的方式攀爬過它。
我毫無猶豫地把腳
跨過左邊的山壁,
11:06
My foot腳丫子 shot射擊 across橫過 to the wall
on the left without hesitation猶豫,
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11:09
and I knew知道 that I had doneDONE it.
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我知道我辦到了。
11:12
Climbing攀登 Half Dome拱頂 had been a big goal目標
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爬半圓丘是個很大的目標,
11:14
and I did it,
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我做到了,但我沒有
得到我真正想要的。
11:16
but I didn't get what I really wanted.
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11:17
I didn't achieve實現 mastery征服.
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我沒精通。
11:19
I was hesitant and afraid害怕, and it wasn't
the experience經驗 that I wanted.
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我猶豫又害怕,
那不是我想要的經驗。
11:22
But El薩爾瓦多 Cap was different不同.
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但酋長岩就不同了。
11:24
With 600 feet to go, I felt like the
mountain was offering me a victory勝利 lap膝部.
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還剩六百英呎要爬,我覺得這座山
在讓我拿著金牌繞場跑一圈。
11:28
I climbed爬上 with a smooth光滑 precision精確
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我非常精準地攀爬著,
11:30
and enjoyed享受 the sounds聲音 of the birds鳥類
swooping俯衝 around the cliff懸崖.
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享受著在峭壁附近
俯衝的鳥兒的聲音。
感覺就像是慶祝一樣。
11:32
It all felt like a celebration慶典.
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11:34
And then I reached到達 the summit首腦
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我花了 3 小時 56 分到達頂峰,
完成一段榮耀的攀登。
11:35
after three hours小時 and 56 minutes分鐘
of glorious輝煌 climbing攀登.
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這就是我想要的攀登,
感覺就像是精通了。
11:38
It was the climb that I wanted,
and it felt like mastery征服.
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謝謝。
11:41
Thank you.
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11:42
(Applause掌聲)
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(掌聲)
Translated by Lilian Chiu
Reviewed by Helen Chang

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ABOUT THE SPEAKER
Alex Honnold - Rock climber
Alex Honnold is a professional rock climber whose audacious free-solo ascents of America's biggest cliffs have made him one of the world's most recognized climbers.

Why you should listen

A gifted but hard-working athlete, Honnold is known as much for his humble, self-effacing attitude as he is for the dizzyingly tall cliffs he has climbed without a rope to protect him if he falls. Honnold has been profiled by 60 Minutes and the New York Times, featured on the cover of National Geographic, appeared in international television commercials and starred in numerous adventure films, including the Emmy-nominated Alone on the Wall. He is the subject of the documentary feature Free Solo, which was released by National Geographic Documentary Films.

Honnold is the founder of the Honnold Foundation, a nonprofit that promotes solar energy access worldwide. To this day, he maintains his simple "dirtbag-climber" existence, living out of his van, donating a significant portion of his income to the Honnold Foundation and traveling the world in search of the next great vertical adventure.

More profile about the speaker
Alex Honnold | Speaker | TED.com