TED2018
Alex Honnold: How I climbed a 3,000-foot vertical cliff -- without ropes
Alex Honnold: Ako som vyliezol na 900-metrovú stenu – bez lana
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Predstavte si seba uprostred vyše 900 metrov vysokej skalnej steny – bez lana, ktoré by vás zachránilo pred pádom. Pre profesionálneho horolezca Alexa Honnolda bol tento závratný pohľad splneným snom, o ktorom sníval desať rokov. Krv tuhne v žilách pri jeho rozprávaní o tom, ako bez istenia uskutočnil jeden z najnebezpečnejších sólo výstupov na vrchol masívu El Capitan v Yosemitoch.
Alex Honnold - Rock climber
Alex Honnold is a professional rock climber whose audacious free-solo ascents of America's biggest cliffs have made him one of the world's most recognized climbers. Full bio
Alex Honnold is a professional rock climber whose audacious free-solo ascents of America's biggest cliffs have made him one of the world's most recognized climbers. Full bio
Double-click the English transcript below to play the video.
00:13
Hello. I'd like to show you guys
30 seconds of the best day of my life.
30 seconds of the best day of my life.
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Zdravím. Ukážem vám 30 sekúnd
najlepšieho dňa svojho života.
najlepšieho dňa svojho života.
00:50
(Applause)
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(potlesk)
00:56
So that was El Capitan
in California's Yosemite National Park,
in California's Yosemite National Park,
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To je hora El Capitan v Yosemitskom
národnom parku v Kalifornii,
národnom parku v Kalifornii,
a ak ste to nepostrehli,
liezol som sám bez lana,
liezol som sám bez lana,
01:00
and in case you couldn't tell,
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01:02
I was climbing by myself without a rope,
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01:04
a style of a climbing
known as free soloing.
known as free soloing.
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štýlom „free solo“,
teda sám a bez istenia.
teda sám a bez istenia.
01:06
That was the culmination
of a nearly decade-long dream,
of a nearly decade-long dream,
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Tak vyvrcholil môj takmer 10-ročný sen
a na zábere som vyše 700 metrov nad zemou.
a na zábere som vyše 700 metrov nad zemou.
01:09
and in the video I'm over
2,500 feet off the ground.
2,500 feet off the ground.
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01:12
Seems scary? Yeah, it is,
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Vyzerá to hrozivo?
Veru, aj je.
Veru, aj je.
Preto som o výstupe na El Cap
toľko rokov sníval, ale neodvážil som sa.
toľko rokov sníval, ale neodvážil som sa.
01:14
which is why I spent so many years
dreaming about soloing El Cap
dreaming about soloing El Cap
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01:17
and not actually doing it.
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(smiech)
01:18
But on the day that that video was taken,
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Ale v deň, keď vzniklo toto video,
som sa vôbec nebál.
som sa vôbec nebál.
01:21
it didn't feel scary at all.
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01:22
It felt as comfortable and natural
as a walk in the park,
as a walk in the park,
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Cítil som sa dobre a prirodzene
ako na prechádzke v parku,
ako na prechádzke v parku,
čiže ako ostatní turisti v Yosemitoch.
01:25
which is what most folks
were doing in Yosemite that day.
were doing in Yosemite that day.
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01:28
Today I'd like to talk about
how I was able to feel so comfortable
how I was able to feel so comfortable
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Poviem vám, ako som mohol byť v pohode
a prekonať strach.
a prekonať strach.
01:31
and how I overcame my fear.
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Najprv stručne o tom,
ako som začal s lezením,
ako som začal s lezením,
01:32
I'll start with a very brief version
of how I became a climber,
of how I became a climber,
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a potom o svojich
dvoch najväčších sólo výstupoch.
dvoch najväčších sólo výstupoch.
01:35
and then tell the story
of my two most significant free solos.
of my two most significant free solos.
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Obidva boli úspešné, vďaka čomu tu som.
01:38
They were both successful,
which is why I'm here.
which is why I'm here.
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(smiech)
01:41
(Laughter)
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01:43
But the first felt largely unsatisfying,
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S prvým som bol veľmi nespokojný,
no ten druhý, na El Cap, bol
najuspokojujúcejším dňom v mojom živote.
najuspokojujúcejším dňom v mojom živote.
01:47
whereas the second, El Cap, was by far
the most fulfilling day of my life.
the most fulfilling day of my life.
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01:51
Through these two climbs,
you'll see my process for managing fear.
you'll see my process for managing fear.
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Na nich postupne uvidíte,
ako som zvládol svoj strach.
ako som zvládol svoj strach.
01:55
So I started climbing in a gym
when I was around 10 years old,
when I was around 10 years old,
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Začal som na umelej stene,
keď som mal asi desať,
keď som mal asi desať,
takže môj život sa točí okolo lezenia
viac než 20 rokov.
viac než 20 rokov.
01:57
which means that my life
has been centered on climbing
has been centered on climbing
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02:00
for more than 20 years.
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Po desiatich rokoch lezenia vnútri
02:01
After nearly a decade
of climbing mostly indoors,
of climbing mostly indoors,
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prišlo lezenie vonku
a neskôr aj bez istenia.
a neskôr aj bez istenia.
02:04
I made the transition to the outdoors
and gradually started free soloing.
and gradually started free soloing.
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Časom som nadobudol istotu
a podujal sa na väčšie a ťažšie steny.
a podujal sa na väčšie a ťažšie steny.
02:07
I built up my comfort over time
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02:09
and slowly took on
bigger and more challenging walls.
bigger and more challenging walls.
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Predo mnou bolo veľa sólo lezcov,
takže inšpirácie bolo dosť.
takže inšpirácie bolo dosť.
02:11
And there have been
many free soloists before me,
many free soloists before me,
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02:14
so I had plenty of
inspiration to draw from.
inspiration to draw from.
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Do roku 2008 som zopakoval
väčšinu ich sól v Yosemitskom parku
väčšinu ich sól v Yosemitskom parku
02:16
But by 2008, I'd repeated
most of their previous solos in Yosemite
most of their previous solos in Yosemite
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a pomýšľal som na prienik
do nových terénov.
do nových terénov.
02:19
and was starting to imagine
breaking into new terrain.
breaking into new terrain.
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Prvá a jasná voľba bol Half Dome,
02:21
The obvious first choice was Half Dome,
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ikonická 600-metrová stena
nad východným koncom údolia.
nad východným koncom údolia.
02:23
an iconic 2,000-foot wall
the lords over the east end of the valley.
the lords over the east end of the valley.
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02:27
The problem, though also the allure,
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Problém, a zároveň lákadlo je,
že je veľmi veľká.
že je veľmi veľká.
02:29
was that it was too big.
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02:30
I didn't really know how to prepare
for a potential free solo.
for a potential free solo.
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Nevedel som, ako sa pripraviť
na možné sólo.
na možné sólo.
02:33
So I decided to skip the preparations
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Tak som prípravu vynechal
a vrhol sa za dobrodružstvom.
a vrhol sa za dobrodružstvom.
02:35
and just go up there
and have an adventure.
and have an adventure.
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(smiech)
02:38
I figured I would rise to the occasion,
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Hovorím si, že si nejako poradím,
čo, pravdaže, nebola najlepšia stratégia.
čo, pravdaže, nebola najlepšia stratégia.
02:40
which, unsurprisingly,
was not the best strategy.
was not the best strategy.
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(smiech)
02:43
I did at least climb the route
roped up with a friend two days before
roped up with a friend two days before
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Dva dni predtým som si preliezol cestu
s kamarátom na lane,
s kamarátom na lane,
aby som aspoň trochu vedel, kadiaľ ísť
a či to fyzicky zvládnem.
a či to fyzicky zvládnem.
02:47
just to make sure
that I knew roughly where to go
that I knew roughly where to go
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02:49
and that I could physically do it.
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02:51
But when I came back
by myself two days later,
by myself two days later,
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Ale keď som sa o dva dni vrátil sám,
rozhodol som sa, že tade nepôjdem.
rozhodol som sa, že tade nepôjdem.
02:53
I decided that I didn't
want to go that way.
want to go that way.
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02:55
I knew that there was a 300-foot variation
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Vedel som o 100-metrovej alternatíve,
ktorou sa vyhnem ťažkému úseku.
ktorou sa vyhnem ťažkému úseku.
02:57
that circled around
one of the hardest parts of the climb.
one of the hardest parts of the climb.
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Náhle som sa rozhodol pre túto obchádzku,
aj keď som ju predtým neliezol.
aj keď som ju predtým neliezol.
03:00
I suddenly decided to skip the hard part
and take the variation,
and take the variation,
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03:03
even though I'd never climbed it before,
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No hneď prišli pochybnosti.
03:05
but I immediately began to doubt myself.
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03:07
Imagine being by yourself
in the dead center of a 2,000-foot face,
in the dead center of a 2,000-foot face,
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Predstavte si, že ste v strede
skoro kilometrovej steny
skoro kilometrovej steny
a neviete, či idete dobre.
03:10
wondering if you're lost.
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03:12
(Laughter)
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(smiech)
Chvalabohu, veľmi som neblúdil
a vrátil sa späť na cestu.
a vrátil sa späť na cestu.
03:13
Thankfully, it was
pretty much the right way
pretty much the right way
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03:16
and I circled back to the route.
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03:18
I was slightly rattled,
I was pretty rattled,
I was pretty rattled,
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Bol som trochu otrasený,
vlastne veľmi otrasený,
vlastne veľmi otrasený,
ale snažil som sa tým nezaoberať,
03:20
but I tried not to let it
bother me too much
bother me too much
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lebo som vedel, že najťažšie lezenie
čakalo pod vrcholom.
čakalo pod vrcholom.
03:23
because I knew that all the hardest
climbing was up at the top.
climbing was up at the top.
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Musel som si zachovať rozvahu.
03:26
I needed to stay composed.
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Bolo krásne septembrové predpoludnie
a keď som bol vyššie,
a keď som bol vyššie,
03:28
It was a beautiful September morning,
and as I climbed higher,
and as I climbed higher,
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doliehala ku mne vrava a smiech
turistov na vrchole.
turistov na vrchole.
03:30
I could hear the sounds of tourists
chatting and laughing on the summit.
chatting and laughing on the summit.
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Vyšli hore druhou stranou
po bežnom chodníku,
po bežnom chodníku,
03:34
They'd all hiked up
the normal trail on the back,
the normal trail on the back,
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ktorým som mienil zostupovať.
03:36
which I was planning on using
for my descent.
for my descent.
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Medzi mnou a vrcholom
však ležala ešte žulová platňa.
však ležala ešte žulová platňa.
03:38
But between me and the summit
lay a blank slab of granite.
lay a blank slab of granite.
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Nijaké praskliny, hrany, žiadne chyty,
len malé nerovnosti na skoro kolmej stene.
len malé nerovnosti na skoro kolmej stene.
03:41
There were no cracks
or edges to hold on to,
or edges to hold on to,
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03:43
just small ripples of texture
up a slightly less than vertical wall.
up a slightly less than vertical wall.
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Zveril som život treniu
03:47
I had to trust my life to the friction
between my climbing shoes
between my climbing shoes
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medzi lezeckými topánkami
a hladkou žulou.
a hladkou žulou.
03:50
and the smooth granite.
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Opatrne som balansoval
03:51
I carefully balanced my way upward,
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a prenášal ťažisko tam a späť
medzi ryhami.
medzi ryhami.
03:53
shifting my weight back and forth
between the small smears.
between the small smears.
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Načiahol som nohu k stupu,
ale nepáčil sa mi.
ale nepáčil sa mi.
03:55
But then I reached a foothold
that I didn't quite trust.
that I didn't quite trust.
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Dva dni dozadu by som ho použil,
lenže vtedy som bol istený.
lenže vtedy som bol istený.
03:58
Two days ago, I'd have just
stepped right up on it,
stepped right up on it,
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04:01
but that would have been with a rope on.
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Teraz sa zdal primalý a hladký.
04:02
Now it felt too small and too slippery.
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Nohu asi neudrží, keď ho zaťažím.
04:04
I doubted that my foot
would stay on if I weighted it.
would stay on if I weighted it.
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Chcem sa viac natiahnuť, stále zle.
04:07
I considered a foot further to the side,
which seemed worse.
which seemed worse.
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Skúšam druhú nohu, že sa posuniem.
04:10
I switched my feet and tried
a foot further out.
a foot further out.
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Ešte horšie.
04:12
It seemed even worse.
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Začínam panikáriť.
04:13
I started to panic.
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Počujem smiech na vrchole nado mnou.
04:15
I could hear people laughing
on the summit just above me.
on the summit just above me.
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Chcem byť hocikde, len nie tu.
04:17
I wanted to be anywhere but on that slab.
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04:19
My mind was racing in every direction.
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Myseľ mi lieta hore-dole.
04:21
I knew what I had to do,
but I was too afraid to do it.
but I was too afraid to do it.
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Vedel som, čo musím spraviť,
lenže som sa bál.
lenže som sa bál.
Stačilo sa postaviť na pravú nohu.
04:24
I just had to stand up on my right foot.
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04:26
And so after what felt like an eternity,
I accepted what I had to do
I accepted what I had to do
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Pripadalo mi to ako večnosť,
ale prijal som to,
ale prijal som to,
oprel som sa o pravú nohu.
04:30
and I stood up on the right foot,
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04:31
and it didn't slip, and so I didn't die,
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Nešmykla sa, takže som nezomrel.
A bol to posledný ťažký krok výstupu.
04:33
and that move marked the end
of the hardest climbing.
of the hardest climbing.
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04:36
And so I charged from there
towards the summit.
towards the summit.
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Upaľoval som odtiaľ na vrchol.
04:38
And so normally when you summit Half Dome,
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Obvykle, keď lezec ide na Half Dome,
má lano a kopu výstroja
a turisti híkajú a hneď ho fotografujú.
a turisti híkajú a hneď ho fotografujú.
04:41
you have a rope and a bunch
of climbing gear on you,
of climbing gear on you,
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04:43
and tourists gasp and they
flock around you for photos.
flock around you for photos.
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Ja sa vyhupnem zdola,
bez trička, zadýchaný, vo vytržení.
bez trička, zadýchaný, vo vytržení.
04:46
This time I popped over the edge
shirtless, panting, jacked.
shirtless, panting, jacked.
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04:49
I was amped, but nobody batted an eye.
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A nikto nič.
04:51
(Laughter)
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(smiech)
Vyzeral som ako stratený turista,
čo sa zatúlal blízko k okraju.
čo sa zatúlal blízko k okraju.
04:57
I looked like a lost hiker
that was too close to the edge.
that was too close to the edge.
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04:59
I was surrounded by people
talking on cell phones and having picnics.
talking on cell phones and having picnics.
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(smiech)
Okolo mňa ľudia telefonujú
a robia si piknik.
a robia si piknik.
Akoby som bol v obchoďáku.
05:04
I felt like I was in a mall.
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(smiech)
05:06
(Laughter)
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05:08
I took off my tight climbing shoes
and started hiking back down,
and started hiking back down,
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Vyzul som si tesné lezecké topánky
a vydal sa dolu.
a vydal sa dolu.
Až vtedy si ma všimli.
05:11
and that's when people stopped me.
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„Ty ideš naboso? To je masaker!“
05:13
"You're hiking barefoot?
That's so hard-core."
That's so hard-core."
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05:15
(Laughter)
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(smiech)
05:22
I didn't bother to explain,
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Nič som nevysvetľoval.
Večer som si však do lezeckého denníka
pridal „free solo“ na Half Dome,
pridal „free solo“ na Half Dome,
05:24
but that night in my climbing journal,
I duly noted my free solo of Half Dome,
I duly noted my free solo of Half Dome,
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a mrzutého smajlíka s poznámkou:
„Dá sa to lepšie?“
„Dá sa to lepšie?“
05:28
but I included a frowny face
and a comment, "Do better?"
and a comment, "Do better?"
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05:33
I'd succeeded in the solo
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To sólo bolo úspešné
a uznáva sa ako prvé svojho druhu.
a uznáva sa ako prvé svojho druhu.
05:34
and it was celebrated
as a big first in climbing.
as a big first in climbing.
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Kamaráti o ňom nakrútili film.
05:36
Some friends later made a film about it.
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05:38
But I was unsatisfied.
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No ja som bol nespokojný.
05:40
I was disappointed in my performance,
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Bol som sklamaný zo svojho výkonu,
lebo som vedel, že to bolo tesné.
lebo som vedel, že to bolo tesné.
05:42
because I knew that I had
gotten away with something.
gotten away with something.
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Nechcem mať len šťastie,
chcem byť skvelý.
chcem byť skvelý.
05:44
I didn't want to be a lucky climber.
I wanted to be a great climber.
I wanted to be a great climber.
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Potom som asi rok sóla neliezol,
05:47
I actually took the next year or so
off from free soloing,
off from free soloing,
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aby som si nezvykol
spoliehať sa na šťastie.
spoliehať sa na šťastie.
05:50
because I knew that I shouldn't
make a habit of relying on luck.
make a habit of relying on luck.
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Ale aj napriek tomu,
som už vtedy myslel na El Cap.
som už vtedy myslel na El Cap.
05:53
But even though
I wasn't soloing very much,
I wasn't soloing very much,
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05:55
I'd already started to think about El Cap.
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Stále mi vŕtal v hlave
ako korunný klenot sólo lezenia.
ako korunný klenot sólo lezenia.
05:57
It was always in the back of my mind
as the obvious crown jewel of solos.
as the obvious crown jewel of solos.
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Je to najpríťažlivejšia stena na svete.
06:01
It's the most striking wall in the world.
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06:03
Each year, for the next seven years,
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Ďalších sedem rokov som si hovoril:
„Tento rok idem na El Cap!“
„Tento rok idem na El Cap!“
06:05
I'd think, "This is the year
that I'm going to solo El Cap."
that I'm going to solo El Cap."
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06:08
And then I would drive into Yosemite,
look up at the wall, and think,
look up at the wall, and think,
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Nato som prišiel do Yosemitov,
pozrel na stenu a pomyslel si:
pozrel na stenu a pomyslel si:
„Ani za svet!“
06:11
"No frickin' way."
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06:13
(Laughter)
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(smiech)
06:15
It's too big and too scary.
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Je príliš veľký a strašidelný.
06:17
But eventually I came to accept that
I wanted to test myself against El Cap.
I wanted to test myself against El Cap.
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Až som pripustil, že s El Cap
si chcem zmerať sily.
si chcem zmerať sily.
06:21
It represented true mastery,
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Predstavuje pravé majstrovstvo,
ale chcel som, aby to bolo iné.
ale chcel som, aby to bolo iné.
06:23
but I needed it to feel different.
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06:25
I didn't want to get away with anything
or barely squeak by.
or barely squeak by.
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Netúžim zasa tesne vyviaznuť.
Tentoraz to musí byť poriadne.
06:28
This time I wanted to do it right.
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06:31
The thing that makes El Cap
so intimidating
so intimidating
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El Cap je odstrašujúci
už pre svoje rozmery.
už pre svoje rozmery.
06:33
is the sheer scale of the wall.
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06:35
Most climbers take three to five days
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Prekonať 900 metrov kolmej skaly
zväčša trvá tri až päť dní.
zväčša trvá tri až päť dní.
06:36
to ascend the 3,000 feet
of vertical granite.
of vertical granite.
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06:39
The idea of setting out
up a wall of that size
up a wall of that size
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Nápad vyliezť na takú veľkú stenu
len v lezeckých topánkach a s kriedou
sa zdal nemožný.
sa zdal nemožný.
06:41
with nothing but shoes and
a chalk bag seemed impossible.
a chalk bag seemed impossible.
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06:45
3,000 feet of climbing represents
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900 metrov lezenia znamená
tisíce rôznych pohybov rúk a nôh,
tisíce rôznych pohybov rúk a nôh,
06:46
thousands of distinct
hand and foot movements,
hand and foot movements,
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ktoré si treba zapamätať.
06:49
which is a lot to remember.
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06:50
Many of the moves I knew
through sheer repetition.
through sheer repetition.
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Veľa pohybov som sa naučil opakovaním.
S lanom som tam vyliezol
asi 50-krát za desať rokov.
asi 50-krát za desať rokov.
06:52
I'd climbed El Cap maybe 50 times
over the previous decade with a rope.
over the previous decade with a rope.
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06:56
But this photo shows my preferred
method of rehearsing the moves.
method of rehearsing the moves.
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Ale tu vidíte metódu,
ktorú uprednostňujem.
ktorú uprednostňujem.
06:59
I'm on the summit,
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Na vrchole sa chystám
zlaniť dolu stenou s 300-metrovým lanom
zlaniť dolu stenou s 300-metrovým lanom
07:00
about to repel down the face
with over a thousand feet of rope
with over a thousand feet of rope
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a celý deň nacvičovať.
07:03
to spend the day practicing.
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Našiel som si sled
bezpečných a opakovateľných krokov
bezpečných a opakovateľných krokov
07:05
Once I found sequences
that felt secure and repeatable,
that felt secure and repeatable,
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a zapamätal som si ich.
07:07
I had to memorize them.
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07:09
I had to make sure that they were
so deeply ingrained within me
so deeply ingrained within me
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Musel som si ich osvojiť natoľko,
aby nebolo možné spraviť chybu.
aby nebolo možné spraviť chybu.
07:12
that there was no possibility of error.
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Nemôžem rozmýšľať, či mám správny smer
alebo najvhodnejší chyt.
alebo najvhodnejší chyt.
07:13
I didn't want to be wondering
if I was going the right way
if I was going the right way
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07:16
or using the best holds.
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Všetko musí ísť samo.
07:18
I needed everything to feel automatic.
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07:20
Climbing with a rope
is a largely physical effort.
is a largely physical effort.
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Liezť s lanom je najmä fyzický výkon.
Potrebujete dostatočnú silu, udržať sa
a postupovať nahor.
a postupovať nahor.
07:22
You just have to be strong enough
to hold on and make the movements upward.
to hold on and make the movements upward.
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„Free solo“ je viac o hlave.
07:26
But free soloing
plays out more in the mind.
plays out more in the mind.
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Fyzická záťaž je rovnaká.
07:28
The physical effort is largely the same.
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Vaše telo lezie po tej istej stene.
07:30
Your body is still climbing the same wall.
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07:32
But staying calm
and performing at your best
and performing at your best
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Ale ostať pokojný a všetko robiť správne,
keď viete, že každá chyba znamená smrť,
keď viete, že každá chyba znamená smrť,
07:34
when you know that
any mistake could mean death
any mistake could mean death
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to chce určité mentálne nastavenie.
07:36
requires a certain kind of mindset.
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07:38
(Laughter)
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(smiech)
07:41
That's not supposed to be funny,
but if it is, it is.
but if it is, it is.
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To nemalo byť smiešne,
ale ak bolo, tak dobre.
ale ak bolo, tak dobre.
(smiech)
07:43
(Laughter)
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07:46
I worked to cultivate that mindset
through visualization,
through visualization,
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Toto nastavenie som si vypracoval
pomocou obrazotvornosti.
pomocou obrazotvornosti.
Skrátka som si premietal,
ako budem to sólo liezť.
ako budem to sólo liezť.
07:49
which basically just means imagining
the entire experience of soloing the wall.
the entire experience of soloing the wall.
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07:53
Partially, that was to help me
remember all the holds,
remember all the holds,
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Sčasti mi to pomohlo
zapamätať si všetky chyty,
zapamätať si všetky chyty,
no hlavne šlo o precítenie,
aká bude ich štruktúra a povrch na dotyk,
aká bude ich štruktúra a povrch na dotyk,
07:55
but mostly visualization
was about feeling the texture
was about feeling the texture
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07:58
of each hold in my hand
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aké bude napnúť nohu
a dôkladne umiestniť chodidlo.
a dôkladne umiestniť chodidlo.
07:59
and imagining the sensation of my leg
reaching out and placing my foot just so.
reaching out and placing my foot just so.
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Predstavil som si celú choreografiu,
tanec stovky metrov nad zemou.
tanec stovky metrov nad zemou.
08:03
I'd imagine it all like a choreographed
dance thousands of feet up.
dance thousands of feet up.
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08:06
The most difficult part of the whole route
was called the Boulder Problem.
was called the Boulder Problem.
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Najťažšia časť cesty
sa volá Boulder Problem.
sa volá Boulder Problem.
Je asi 600 metrov nad zemou
a vyžaduje najnáročnejšie pohyby tela:
a vyžaduje najnáročnejšie pohyby tela:
08:10
It was about 2,000 feet off the ground
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08:12
and consisted of the hardest
physical moves on the whole route:
physical moves on the whole route:
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dlhé zhyby so slabými chytmi
a malé, šmykľavé stupy.
a malé, šmykľavé stupy.
08:15
long pulls between poor handholds
with very small, slippery feet.
with very small, slippery feet.
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Slabým chytom myslím toto:
08:18
This is what I mean by a poor handhold:
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hranu užšiu ako ceruzka, otočenú nadol,
takže palec zapieram dohora.
takže palec zapieram dohora.
08:20
an edge smaller than the width
of a pencil but facing downward
of a pencil but facing downward
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08:23
that I had to press up into with my thumb.
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08:26
But that wasn't even the hardest part.
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A to ešte nebolo to najhoršie.
08:28
The crux culminated in a karate kick
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Na záver príde „karate kop“
ľavou nohou do priľahlého rohu.
ľavou nohou do priľahlého rohu.
08:29
with my left foot over to the inside
of an adjacent corner,
of an adjacent corner,
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Vyžaduje si to veľkú presnosť a ohybnosť.
08:32
a maneuver that required a high degree
of precision and flexibility,
of precision and flexibility,
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08:35
enough so that I'd been doing
a nightly stretching routine
a nightly stretching routine
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Preto som každý večer cvičil strečing
celý predchádzajúci rok,
celý predchádzajúci rok,
08:38
for a full year ahead of time
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aby som nohu v pohode natiahol.
08:40
to make sure that I could comfortably
make the reach with my leg.
make the reach with my leg.
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08:43
As I practiced the moves,
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Pri cvičení pohybov som sa sústredil
aj na emočnú zložku potenciálneho sóla.
aj na emočnú zložku potenciálneho sóla.
08:44
my visualization turned
to the emotional component
to the emotional component
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08:46
of a potential solo.
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08:48
Basically, what if I got up there
and it was too scary?
and it was too scary?
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Napríklad, čo ak tam hore
pocítim priveľký strach?
pocítim priveľký strach?
08:51
What if I was too tired?
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Alebo únavu?
08:52
What if I couldn't quite make the kick?
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Čo ak nezvládnem ten kop?
08:54
I had to consider every possibility
while I was safely on the ground,
while I was safely on the ground,
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Musel som zvážiť všetky možnosti
ešte v bezpečí na zemi.
ešte v bezpečí na zemi.
Lebo keď príde čas a pôjdem naostro,
nebude priestor na pochybnosti.
nebude priestor na pochybnosti.
08:57
so that when the time came and I was
actually making the moves without a rope,
actually making the moves without a rope,
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09:01
there was no room for doubt to creep in.
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Pochybnosť predchádza strach,
09:03
Doubt is the precursor to fear,
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a ja som vedel, že so strachom
prídem o ten dokonalý moment.
prídem o ten dokonalý moment.
09:04
and I knew that I couldn't experience
my perfect moment if I was afraid.
my perfect moment if I was afraid.
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Musel som trénovať,
kým nezmizli všetky pochybnosti.
kým nezmizli všetky pochybnosti.
09:08
I had to visualize and rehearse
enough to remove all doubt.
enough to remove all doubt.
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09:11
But beyond that, I also
visualized how it would feel
visualized how it would feel
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A navyše, predstavoval som si,
aké by bolo, keby sa to vôbec nedalo.
aké by bolo, keby sa to vôbec nedalo.
09:13
if it never seemed doable.
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09:15
What if, after so much work,
I was afraid to try?
I was afraid to try?
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Čo ak sa po tom všetkom ani neodhodlám?
09:19
What if I was wasting my time
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Čo ak som márnil čas a nikdy
nebudem v pohode v takej náročnej pozícii?
nebudem v pohode v takej náročnej pozícii?
09:20
and I would never feel comfortable
in such an exposed position?
in such an exposed position?
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09:24
There were no easy answers,
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Ľahká odpoveď neexistuje,
ale El Cap pre mňa znamenal dosť,
aby som šiel a zistil to.
aby som šiel a zistil to.
09:25
but El Cap meant enough to me
that I would put in the work and find out.
that I would put in the work and find out.
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09:29
Some of my preparations were more mundane.
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Príprava bola občas nezáživná.
09:31
This is a photo of my friend Conrad Anker
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Tu je môj priateľ Conrad Anker.
Lezie v dolnej časti cesty
s prázdnym ruksakom.
s prázdnym ruksakom.
09:33
climbing up the bottom of El Cap
with an empty backpack.
with an empty backpack.
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Spolu sme vtedy vyšli
k jednej praskline v strede,
k jednej praskline v strede,
09:36
We spent the day climbing together
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09:38
to a specific crack
in the middle of the wall
in the middle of the wall
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kde bolo plno uvoľnených skál.
09:40
that was choked with loose rocks
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Ten úsek bol preto mimoriadne ťažký
a potenciálne nebezpečný,
a potenciálne nebezpečný,
09:41
that made that section
difficult and potentially dangerous,
difficult and potentially dangerous,
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keďže každý nepresný krok
mohol zhodiť kameň
mohol zhodiť kameň
09:44
because any missed step
might knock a rock to the ground
might knock a rock to the ground
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a zabiť iného lezca či turistu.
09:47
and kill a passing climber or hiker.
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Opatrne sme skaly zbierali,
nakladali do batoha a zlanili dolu.
nakladali do batoha a zlanili dolu.
09:49
So we carefully removed the rocks,
loaded them into the pack
loaded them into the pack
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09:52
and rappelled back down.
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09:53
Take a second to imagine
how ridiculous it feels
how ridiculous it feels
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Zamyslite sa na sekundu,
aké to bolo smiešne
aké to bolo smiešne
liezť 500 metrov po stene,
aby sme dali skaly do ruksaka.
aby sme dali skaly do ruksaka.
09:55
to climb 1,500 feet up a wall
just to fill a backpack full of rocks.
just to fill a backpack full of rocks.
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(smiech)
09:58
(Laughter)
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10:00
It's never that easy to carry
a pack full of rocks around.
a pack full of rocks around.
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Uniesť batoh s kameňmi nie je ľahké
a ešte ťažšie je to v kolmom zráze.
a ešte ťažšie je to v kolmom zráze.
10:03
It's even harder on the side of a cliff.
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Napriek hlúpemu pocitu to bolo nutné.
10:05
It may have felt silly,
but it still had to get done.
but it still had to get done.
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Ak tam mám vyliezť bez lana,
všetko musí byť dokonalé.
všetko musí byť dokonalé.
10:07
I needed everything to feel perfect
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10:09
if I was ever going to climb
the route without a rope.
the route without a rope.
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Dva roky som sa sústreďoval výhradne
na možné sólo na El Cap
na možné sólo na El Cap
10:12
After two seasons of working specifically
toward a potential free solo of El Cap,
toward a potential free solo of El Cap,
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a konečne som zavŕšil prípravu.
10:15
I finally finished all my preparations.
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Poznal som každý chyt a stup
a presne vedel, čo robiť.
a presne vedel, čo robiť.
10:17
I knew every handhold
and foothold on the whole route,
and foothold on the whole route,
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10:20
and I knew exactly what to do.
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Bol som v zásade pripravený.
10:21
Basically, I was ready.
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10:23
It was time to solo El Cap.
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Prišiel čas vyliezť na El Cap.
10:25
On June 3, 2017,
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Dňa 3. júna 2017 som vstal skoro,
raňajkoval ako vždy vločky a ovocie
raňajkoval ako vždy vločky a ovocie
10:27
I woke up early, ate my usual
breakfast of muesli and fruit
breakfast of muesli and fruit
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a pred svitaním som bol pod stenou.
10:31
and made it to the base
of the wall before sunrise.
of the wall before sunrise.
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10:33
I felt confident as I looked up the wall.
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Pri pohľade hore som sa cítil sebaisto
a ešte lepšie som sa cítil,
keď som začal liezť.
keď som začal liezť.
10:35
I felt even better as I started climbing.
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10:38
About 500 feet up, I reached a slab
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V asi 150 metroch bola platňa,
podobná tej, čo ma potrápila na Half Dome,
podobná tej, čo ma potrápila na Half Dome,
10:40
very similar to the one that had
given me so much trouble on Half Dome,
given me so much trouble on Half Dome,
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ale tentoraz to bolo iné.
10:43
but this time was different.
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10:45
I'd scouted every option, including
hundreds of feet of wall to either side.
hundreds of feet of wall to either side.
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Prešiel som si všetky varianty
stovky metrov všetkými smermi.
stovky metrov všetkými smermi.
Vedel som, čo mám robiť a ako.
10:49
I knew exactly what to do
and how to do it.
and how to do it.
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Neváhal som, len som liezol.
10:51
I had no doubts.
I just climbed right through.
I just climbed right through.
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10:54
Even the difficult and strenuous
sections passed by with ease.
sections passed by with ease.
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Aj zložité a namáhavé úseky
som prešiel s ľahkosťou.
som prešiel s ľahkosťou.
10:57
I was perfectly executing my routine.
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Robil som všetko, čo som si nacvičil.
11:00
I rested for a moment
below the Boulder Problem
below the Boulder Problem
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Malý oddych a šiel som na Boulder Problem.
11:02
and then climbed it just as I had
practiced so many times with the rope on.
practiced so many times with the rope on.
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Prešiel som ho presne tak,
ako predtým mnohokrát s lanom.
ako predtým mnohokrát s lanom.
Noha bez váhania preskočila na stenu vľavo
a už som vedel, že som to dal.
a už som vedel, že som to dal.
11:06
My foot shot across to the wall
on the left without hesitation,
on the left without hesitation,
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11:09
and I knew that I had done it.
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11:12
Climbing Half Dome had been a big goal
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Vyliezť na Half Dome
bol veľký cieľ a podaril sa,
bol veľký cieľ a podaril sa,
11:14
and I did it,
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no nedosiahol som, čo som chcel.
11:16
but I didn't get what I really wanted.
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11:17
I didn't achieve mastery.
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Pravé majstrovstvo.
Mal som pochybnosti a strach
a nebolo to vôbec ono.
a nebolo to vôbec ono.
11:19
I was hesitant and afraid, and it wasn't
the experience that I wanted.
the experience that I wanted.
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11:22
But El Cap was different.
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El Cap bol iný.
11:24
With 600 feet to go, I felt like the
mountain was offering me a victory lap.
mountain was offering me a victory lap.
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Posledných 200 metrov pod vrcholom
to bola moja exhibícia.
to bola moja exhibícia.
11:28
I climbed with a smooth precision
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Liezol som hravo a precízne
a vychutnával som si spev vtákov.
a vychutnával som si spev vtákov.
11:30
and enjoyed the sounds of the birds
swooping around the cliff.
swooping around the cliff.
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Bolo to ako oslava.
11:32
It all felt like a celebration.
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Potom som dosiahol vrchol po 3 hodinách
a 56 minútach krásneho lezenia.
a 56 minútach krásneho lezenia.
11:34
And then I reached the summit
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11:35
after three hours and 56 minutes
of glorious climbing.
of glorious climbing.
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Taký výstup som chcel,
cítil som, že som to dokonale zvládol.
cítil som, že som to dokonale zvládol.
11:38
It was the climb that I wanted,
and it felt like mastery.
and it felt like mastery.
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Ďakujem.
11:41
Thank you.
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ABOUT THE SPEAKER
Alex Honnold - Rock climberAlex Honnold is a professional rock climber whose audacious free-solo ascents of America's biggest cliffs have made him one of the world's most recognized climbers.
Why you should listen
A gifted but hard-working athlete, Honnold is known as much for his humble, self-effacing attitude as he is for the dizzyingly tall cliffs he has climbed without a rope to protect him if he falls. Honnold has been profiled by 60 Minutes and the New York Times, featured on the cover of National Geographic, appeared in international television commercials and starred in numerous adventure films, including the Emmy-nominated Alone on the Wall. He is the subject of the documentary feature Free Solo, which was released by National Geographic Documentary Films.
Honnold is the founder of the Honnold Foundation, a nonprofit that promotes solar energy access worldwide. To this day, he maintains his simple "dirtbag-climber" existence, living out of his van, donating a significant portion of his income to the Honnold Foundation and traveling the world in search of the next great vertical adventure.
Alex Honnold | Speaker | TED.com