TED@Tommy
Kaustav Dey: How fashion helps us express who we are -- and what we stand for
Kaustav Dey: Kako nam moda pomaže izraziti tko smo i za što se zalažemo
Filmed:
Readability: 3.7
1,173,968 views
Kada žena odjene traperice u New Yorku, nitko ni ne trepne, ali kada to učini dobitnica Nobelove nagrade Malala, riječ je o političkom činu. Diljem svijeta, individualnost se može smatrati zločinom, a odijevanje može biti znak prosvjeda. U svom govoru o utjecaju onoga što nosimo, Kaustav Dey istražuje kako nam moda pruža neverbalni jezik borbe i ohrabruje nas da prigrlimo istinsko ja.
Kaustav Dey - Fashion revolutionary
Kaustav Dey leads marketing for Tommy Hilfiger in India. Full bio
Kaustav Dey leads marketing for Tommy Hilfiger in India. Full bio
Double-click the English transcript below to play the video.
00:12
I was around 10 when one day,
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Imao sam oko deset godina
kada sam jednog dana
kada sam jednog dana
00:15
I discovered a box
of my father's old things.
of my father's old things.
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pronašao kutiju s očevim starim stvarima.
00:18
In it, under a bunch
of his college textbooks,
of his college textbooks,
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U njoj su se, ispod hrpe
studentskih knjiga,
studentskih knjiga,
00:21
was a pair of black corduroy
bell-bottom pants.
bell-bottom pants.
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našle i jedne crne trapez hlače od samta.
00:27
These pants were awful --
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Hlače su bile grozne,
00:29
musty and moth-eaten.
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ustajale i izjedene moljcima.
00:31
And of course, I fell in love with them.
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Naravno, zaljubio sam se u njih.
Nikada nisam vidio ništa poput njih.
00:33
I'd never seen anything like them.
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00:36
Until that day,
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Do tog dana,
00:37
all I'd ever known and worn
was my school uniform,
was my school uniform,
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jedino za što sam znao i nosio
bila je moja školska odora,
bila je moja školska odora,
00:42
which, in fact, I was pretty grateful for,
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na kojoj sam, zapravo, bio jako zahvalan,
00:45
because from quite a young age,
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budući da sam od malih nogu
00:47
I'd realized I was somewhat different.
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shvaćao da sam nekako drugačiji.
00:50
I'd never been one of the boys my age;
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Nikada nisam bio poput
dječaka mog uzrasta,
dječaka mog uzrasta,
00:53
terrible at sports,
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bio sam grozan u sportu,
00:54
possibly the unmanliest little boy ever.
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vjerojatno najmanje muževan dječak ikada.
00:57
(Laughter)
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(Smijeh)
00:58
I was bullied quite a bit.
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Dosta su me maltretirali.
01:01
And so, I figured that to survive
I would be invisible,
I would be invisible,
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Stoga sam shvatio, da bih preživio,
trebao sam biti nevidljiv,
trebao sam biti nevidljiv,
01:06
and the uniform helped me
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a odora mi je pomogla
01:08
to seem no different from any other child.
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da se ne razlikujem od druge djece.
01:11
(Laughter)
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(Smijeh)
01:12
Well, almost.
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Pa, gotovo da je bilo tako.
01:16
This became my daily prayer:
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Svakodnevno sam se molio:
01:18
"God, please make me
just like everybody else."
just like everybody else."
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"Bože, učini da budem kao i svi ostali."
Mislim da je molitva otišla
ravno u božju govornu poštu.
ravno u božju govornu poštu.
01:23
I think this went straight
to God's voicemail, though.
to God's voicemail, though.
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01:25
(Laughter)
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(Smijeh)
01:27
And eventually, it became pretty clear
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S vremenom je postalo jasno
01:29
that I was not growing up to be
the son that my father always wanted.
the son that my father always wanted.
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da neću biti sin kakvog je
moj otac oduvijek želio.
moj otac oduvijek želio.
01:33
Sorry, Dad.
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Oprosti, tata.
01:37
No, I was not going to magically change.
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Bio sam svjestan da me
nikakva čarolija neće promijeniti.
nikakva čarolija neće promijeniti.
01:40
And over time, I grew less and less sure
that I actually wanted to.
that I actually wanted to.
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S vremenom sam se sve manje
htio mijenjati.
htio mijenjati.
01:46
Therefore, the day those black corduroy
bell-bottom pants came into my life,
bell-bottom pants came into my life,
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Kada su crne trapezice od samta
ušle u moj život,
ušle u moj život,
01:51
something happened.
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nešto se dogodilo.
01:53
I didn't see pants;
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Nisam vidio hlače.
01:55
I saw opportunity.
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Vidio sam priliku.
01:57
The very next day,
I had to wear them to school,
I had to wear them to school,
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Već sam ih sljedećeg dana
htio odjenuti za školu,
htio odjenuti za školu,
01:59
come what may.
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kud puklo da puklo.
02:01
And once I pulled on those god-awful pants
and belted them tight,
and belted them tight,
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Kada sam navukao te užasne hlače
i stisnuo remen,
i stisnuo remen,
02:05
almost instantly, I developed
what can only be called a swagger.
what can only be called a swagger.
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gotovo sam se isti tren
počeo praviti važan.
počeo praviti važan.
02:10
(Laughter)
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(Smijeh)
02:11
All the way to school,
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Na putu do škole i natrag,
02:13
and then all the way back
because I was sent home at once --
because I was sent home at once --
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budući da su me odmah poslali kući.
02:16
(Laughter)
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(Smijeh)
02:17
I transformed into
a little brown rock star.
a little brown rock star.
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Preobrazio sam se
u malu smeđu rock zvijezdu.
u malu smeđu rock zvijezdu.
02:22
(Laughter)
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(Smijeh)
02:23
I finally didn't care anymore
that I could not conform.
that I could not conform.
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Konačno mi više nije bilo bitno
što sam drugačiji.
što sam drugačiji.
02:26
That day, I was suddenly celebrating it.
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Tog sam dana odjednom to slavio.
02:30
That day, instead of being invisible,
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Tog dana, umjesto neprimjetan,
02:33
I chose to be looked at,
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odabrao sam biti uočljiv
02:36
just by wearing something different.
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jednostavnim nošenjem nečeg drugačijeg.
02:39
That day, I discovered
the power of what we wear.
the power of what we wear.
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Tog sam dana otkrio moć onoga što nosimo.
02:43
That day, I discovered
the power of fashion,
the power of fashion,
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Otkrio sam moć mode
02:46
and I've been in love with it ever since.
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i zaljubio se u nju.
02:50
Fashion can communicate our differences
to the world for us.
to the world for us.
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Moda svijetu može prenijeti
naše različitosti, umjesto nas.
naše različitosti, umjesto nas.
02:54
And with this simple act of truth,
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I uz ovaj jednostavan čin iskrenosti,
02:56
I realized that these differences --
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shvatio sam da su te različitosti
02:59
they stopped being our shame.
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prestale biti naša sramota.
03:02
They became our expressions,
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Postale su naš izričaj,
03:05
expressions of our very unique identities.
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odraz naših jedinstvenih identiteta.
03:10
And we should express ourselves,
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Trebamo se izražavati,
03:12
wear what we want.
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nositi što želimo.
03:14
What's the worst that could happen?
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Što je najgore što se može dogoditi?
03:16
The fashion police are going to get you
for being so last season?
for being so last season?
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Uhvatit će vas modna policija
jer nosite prošlogodišnju kolekciju?
jer nosite prošlogodišnju kolekciju?
03:21
(Laughter)
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(Smijeh)
03:24
Yeah.
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Da.
03:26
Well, unless the fashion police
meant something entirely different.
meant something entirely different.
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Osim ako modna policija
ne predstavlja nešto sasvim drugo.
ne predstavlja nešto sasvim drugo.
03:34
Nobel Prize laureate Malala
survived Taliban extremists
survived Taliban extremists
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Malala, dobitnica Nobelove nagrade,
preživjela je talibanske ekstremiste
preživjela je talibanske ekstremiste
03:38
in October 2012.
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u listopadu 2012. godine.
03:40
However, in October 2017,
she faced a different enemy,
she faced a different enemy,
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Međutim, u listopadu 2017. godine,
suočila se s drugačijim neprijateljem,
suočila se s drugačijim neprijateljem,
03:45
when online trolls viciously
attacked the photograph
attacked the photograph
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kada su je internetski zlobnici
napali zbog fotografije
napali zbog fotografije
03:49
that showed the 20-year-old
wearing jeans that day.
wearing jeans that day.
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na kojoj 20-godišnjakinja nosi traperice.
03:53
The comments,
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Komentari,
03:55
the hatred she received,
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mržnja upućena prema njoj,
03:57
ranged from "How long
before the scarf comes off?"
before the scarf comes off?"
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od "Koliko dugo dok ne skine maramu?"
04:00
to, and I quote,
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do, citiram,
04:03
"That's the reason the bullet
directly targeted her head
directly targeted her head
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"Zbog ovoga je metak ciljao
ravno u njenu glavu
ravno u njenu glavu
04:06
a long time ago."
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prije dugo vremena."
04:08
Now, when most of us decide
to wear a pair of jeans
to wear a pair of jeans
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Danas, kada većina nas odluči
nositi traperice
nositi traperice
04:11
someplace like New York,
London, Milan, Paris,
London, Milan, Paris,
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u New Yorku, Londonu, Milanu, Parizu,
04:16
we possibly don't stop
to think that it's a privilege;
to think that it's a privilege;
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vjerojatno ni ne pomislimo
da je to privilegija,
da je to privilegija,
04:21
something that somewhere else
can have consequences,
can have consequences,
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koja negdje drugdje
može imati posljedice,
može imati posljedice,
04:25
something that can one day
be taken away from us.
be taken away from us.
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koja nam jednog dana može biti oduzeta.
04:30
My grandmother was a woman
who took extraordinary pleasure
who took extraordinary pleasure
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Moja je baka bila žena
koja je izuzetno uživala
koja je izuzetno uživala
04:33
in dressing up.
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u odijevanju.
04:34
Her fashion was colorful.
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Njezina je moda bila šarena.
04:37
And the color she loved to wear so much
was possibly the only thing
was possibly the only thing
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Boje, koje je toliko voljela nositi,
vjerojatno su bile jedina prava,
vjerojatno su bile jedina prava,
04:40
that was truly about her,
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istinska stvar o njoj samoj,
04:42
the one thing she had agency over,
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jedino nad čime je imala moć,
04:45
because like most other women
of her generation in India,
of her generation in India,
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jer, poput mnogih žena
njezine generacije u Indiji,
njezine generacije u Indiji,
04:47
she'd never been allowed to exist
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nije joj bilo dopušteno biti iznad pravila
04:50
beyond what was dictated
by custom and tradition.
by custom and tradition.
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koja su određivali običaji i tradicija.
04:54
She'd been married at 17,
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Udala se sa 17 godina
04:57
and after 65 years of marriage,
when my grandfather died suddenly one day,
when my grandfather died suddenly one day,
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i nakon 65 godina braka, kada je
djed jednog dana iznenada preminuo,
djed jednog dana iznenada preminuo,
njezin je gubitak bio nepodnošljiv.
05:03
her loss was unbearable.
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05:07
But that day, she was going to lose
something else as well,
something else as well,
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No, tog je dana izgubila još nešto,
05:11
the one joy she had:
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svoju jedinu radost,
05:13
to wear color.
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nošenje boja.
05:16
In India, according to custom,
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U Indiji, prema običajima,
05:18
when a Hindu woman becomes a widow,
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kada Hindu žena postane udovica,
05:20
all she's allowed to wear is white
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smije nositi jedino bijelu boju
05:23
from the day of the death of her husband.
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od dana kada izgubi supruga.
05:25
No one made my grandmother wear white.
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Moju baku nitko nije natjerao
da nosi bijelo.
da nosi bijelo.
05:28
However, every woman she'd known
who had outlived her husband,
who had outlived her husband,
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Međutim, sve žene koje je poznavala
i koje su nadživjele svoje muževe,
i koje su nadživjele svoje muževe,
05:32
including her mother,
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uključujući njezinu majku,
05:33
had done it.
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učinile su to.
05:35
This oppression was so internalized,
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Represija je bila toliko ukorijenjena,
05:39
so deep-rooted,
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toliko duboko usađena,
05:41
that she herself refused a choice.
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da je i ona sama odbila mogućnost odabira.
05:46
She passed away this year,
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Preminula je ove godine,
05:48
and until the day she died,
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i do svoje smrti
05:50
she continued to wear only white.
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nastavila je nositi jedino bijelo.
05:56
I have a photograph with her
from earlier, happier times.
from earlier, happier times.
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Imam fotografiju s njom,
iz sretnijih dana.
iz sretnijih dana.
06:00
In it, you can't really see
what she's wearing --
what she's wearing --
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Na njoj ne možete vidjeti što nosi
06:03
the photo is in black and white.
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jer je fotografija crno-bijela.
06:05
However, from the way she's smiling in it,
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Međutim, prema njezinom osmijehu
06:08
you just know she's wearing color.
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jednostavno znate da nosi boje.
06:12
This is also what fashion can do.
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Moda može učiniti i to.
06:15
It has the power to fill us with joy,
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Ima moć ispuniti nas veseljem,
06:17
the joy of freedom to choose for ourselves
how we want to look,
how we want to look,
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radošću slobode izbora
kako želimo izgledati,
kako želimo izgledati,
06:23
how we want to live --
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kako želimo živjeti,
06:25
a freedom worth fighting for.
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slobodom za koju se vrijedi boriti.
06:28
And fighting for freedom, protest,
comes in many forms.
comes in many forms.
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Borba za slobodu, prosvjed,
dolazi u mnogo oblika.
dolazi u mnogo oblika.
06:33
Widows in India like my grandmother,
thousands of them,
thousands of them,
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Udovice u Indiji,
poput moje bake, na tisuće njih,
poput moje bake, na tisuće njih,
06:36
live in a city called Vrindavan.
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žive u gradu Vrindavanu.
06:39
And so, it's been a sea
of white for centuries.
of white for centuries.
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I kao takav, stoljećima izgleda
poput bijelog mora.
poput bijelog mora.
06:44
However, only as recently as 2013,
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Međutim, nedavno, od 2013. godine,
06:47
the widows of Vrindavan
have started to celebrate Holi,
have started to celebrate Holi,
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udovice u Vrindavanu
počele su slaviti Holi,
počele su slaviti Holi,
06:51
the Indian festival of color,
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indijski festival boja,
06:54
which they are prohibited
from participating in.
from participating in.
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na kojem im je zabranjeno sudjelovati.
06:58
On this one day in March,
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Tijekom jednog dana u ožujku,
07:00
these women take the traditional
colored powder of the festival
colored powder of the festival
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ove žene uzimaju tradicionalni
šareni festivalski prah
šareni festivalski prah
07:04
and color each other.
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i boje jedna drugu.
07:07
With every handful of the powder
they throw into the air,
they throw into the air,
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Sa svakom šakom praha bačenog u zrak,
07:11
their white saris slowly start
to suffuse with color.
to suffuse with color.
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njihovi bijeli sariji
polako bivaju prekriveni bojom.
polako bivaju prekriveni bojom.
07:16
And they don't stop until
they're completely covered
they're completely covered
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I ne prestaju dok nisu potpuno prekrivene
07:19
in every hue of the rainbow
that's forbidden to them.
that's forbidden to them.
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svakom nijansom duginih boja
koje su im zabranjene.
koje su im zabranjene.
07:24
The color washes off the next day,
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Boja se ispere sljedećeg dana,
07:27
however, for that moment in time,
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ali tog trenutka,
07:30
it's their beautiful disruption.
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one mogu uživati u buntu.
07:34
This disruption,
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Taj bunt,
07:37
any kind of dissonance,
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bilo koja vrsta neslaganja,
07:39
can be the first gauntlet we throw down
in a battle against oppression.
in a battle against oppression.
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može biti prvi korak u našoj borbi
protiv represije.
protiv represije.
07:44
And fashion --
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Moda nam omogućuje
07:45
it can create visual disruption for us --
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izraziti vizualni bunt,
07:48
on us, literally.
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na nama, doslovce.
07:51
Lessons of defiance
have always been taught
have always been taught
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Lekcije o prkosu oduvijek su nam davali
07:54
by fashion's great revolutionaries:
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veliki modni revolucionari:
07:57
its designers.
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dizajneri.
07:59
Jean Paul Gaultier taught us
that women can be kings.
that women can be kings.
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Jean Paul Gaultier naučio nas je
da žene mogu biti kraljevi.
da žene mogu biti kraljevi.
08:04
Thom Browne --
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Thom Browne
08:06
he taught us that men can wear heels.
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naučio nas je da muškarci
mogu nositi pete.
mogu nositi pete.
08:10
And Alexander McQueen,
in his spring 1999 show,
in his spring 1999 show,
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Alexander McQueen, na predstavljanju
svoje proljetne kolekcije 1999. godine,
svoje proljetne kolekcije 1999. godine,
08:14
had two giant robotic arms
in the middle of his runway.
in the middle of his runway.
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nasred piste postavio je
dvije ogromne robotske ruke.
dvije ogromne robotske ruke.
08:19
And as the model, Shalom Harlow
began to spin in between them,
began to spin in between them,
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Kad se model, Shalom Harlow,
počela vrtjeti između njih,
počela vrtjeti između njih,
08:24
these two giant arms --
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ove divovske ruke
08:26
furtively at first and then furiously,
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prvo kriomice, a zatim mahnito,
08:28
began to spray color onto her.
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počele su po njoj prskati boju.
08:31
McQueen, thus,
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Tako nas je McQueen,
08:33
before he took his own life,
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prije nego si je oduzeo život,
08:35
taught us that this body
of ours is a canvas,
of ours is a canvas,
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naučio da je naše tijelo platno
08:40
a canvas we get to paint however we want.
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po kojemu možemo slikati kako mi želimo.
08:45
Somebody who loved this world of fashion
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Svijet mode volio je
08:47
was Karar Nushi.
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i Karar Nushi.
08:49
He was a student and actor from Iraq.
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On je bio student i glumac iz Iraka.
08:52
He loved his vibrant, eclectic clothes.
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Volio je svoj živopisan stil odijevanja.
08:55
However, he soon started receiving
death threats for how he looked.
death threats for how he looked.
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Međutim, uskoro je zbog svog izgleda
počeo primati prijetnje smrću.
počeo primati prijetnje smrću.
09:00
He remained unfazed.
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Ostao je smiren.
09:02
He remained fabulous,
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Ostao je divan,
09:04
until July 2017,
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do srpnja 2017. godine,
09:06
when Karar was discovered dead
on a busy street in Baghdad.
on a busy street in Baghdad.
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kada su ga pronašli mrtvog
na prometnoj ulici Bagdada.
na prometnoj ulici Bagdada.
09:13
He'd been kidnapped.
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Oteli su ga.
09:16
He'd been tortured.
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Mučili su ga.
09:18
And eyewitnesses say that his body
showed multiple wounds.
showed multiple wounds.
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Očevici kažu da mu je na tijelu
pronađeno više rana.
pronađeno više rana.
09:24
Stab wounds.
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Rana od uboda.
09:27
Two thousand miles away in Peshawar,
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Tri tisuće kilometara dalje, u Peshawaru,
09:30
Pakistani transgender activist Alisha
was shot multiple times in May 2016.
was shot multiple times in May 2016.
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pakistansku transrodnu aktivisticu Alishu
upucali su nekoliko puta u svibnju 2016.
upucali su nekoliko puta u svibnju 2016.
09:37
She was taken to the hospital,
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Odvezena je u bolnicu,
09:39
but because she dressed
in women's clothing,
in women's clothing,
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ali zato što se odijevala u žensku odjeću
09:41
she was refused access
to either the men's or the women's wards.
to either the men's or the women's wards.
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odbijen joj je pristup
i muškom i ženskom bolničkom odjelu.
i muškom i ženskom bolničkom odjelu.
09:48
What we choose to wear can sometimes
be literally life and death.
be literally life and death.
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Što odabiremo nositi ponekad doslovce
znači život ili smrt.
znači život ili smrt.
09:53
And even in death,
we sometimes don't get to choose.
we sometimes don't get to choose.
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Ponekad nam čak ni u smrti
nije pružena mogućnost odabira.
nije pružena mogućnost odabira.
09:57
Alisha died that day
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Alisha je umrla toga dana
09:59
and then was buried as a man.
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i pokopana je kao muškarac.
10:02
What kind of world is this?
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Kakav je ovo svijet?
10:05
Well, it's one in which
it's natural to be afraid,
it's natural to be afraid,
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Svijet u kojem je prirodno bojati se,
10:09
to be frightened of this surveillance,
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biti uplašen ovakvim nadzorom,
10:12
this violence against our bodies
and what we wear on them.
and what we wear on them.
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nasiljem nad našim tijelima
i što nosimo na njima.
i što nosimo na njima.
10:16
However, the greater fear
is that once we surrender,
is that once we surrender,
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Međutim, veći je strah ako se predamo,
10:21
blend in
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stopimo
10:22
and begin to disappear
one after the other,
one after the other,
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i počnemo nestajati jedan za drugim,
10:25
the more normal this false
conformity will look,
conformity will look,
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što će ovaj lažni sklad
izgledati normalniji,
izgledati normalniji,
10:29
the less shocking
this oppression will feel.
this oppression will feel.
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to će se represija činiti manje šokantnom.
10:34
For the children we are raising,
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Za djecu koju odgajamo,
10:36
the injustice of today could become
the ordinary of tomorrow.
the ordinary of tomorrow.
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današnja nepravda mogla bi postati
sutrašnja svakodnevica.
sutrašnja svakodnevica.
10:42
They'll get used to this,
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Naviknut će se na nju
10:45
and they, too, might begin to see
anything different as dirty,
anything different as dirty,
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i mogli bi na sve što je drugačije
početi gledati kao na nešto prljavo,
početi gledati kao na nešto prljavo,
10:50
something to be hated,
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nešto što treba mrziti,
10:52
something to be extinguished,
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što treba istrijebiti,
10:55
like lights to be put out,
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poput gašenja svjetala,
10:57
one by one,
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jedno po jedno,
10:58
until darkness becomes a way of life.
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dok tmina ne postane način života.
11:02
However, if I today,
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Ipak, ako ja danas,
11:04
then you tomorrow,
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vi sutra,
11:06
maybe even more of us someday,
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a možda čak i više nas jednog dana,
11:08
if we embrace our right
to look like ourselves,
to look like ourselves,
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prigrlimo naše pravo
da izgledamo poput nas,
da izgledamo poput nas,
11:11
then in the world that's been
violently whitewashed,
violently whitewashed,
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tada ćemo u svijetu koji je
nasilno potisnut,
nasilno potisnut,
11:14
we will become the pinpricks
of color pushing through,
of color pushing through,
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postati raznobojna šačica koja se probija,
11:17
much like those widows of Vrindavan.
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poput udovica iz Vrindavana.
11:21
How then, with so many of us,
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Kako će tada, kada nas bude toliko,
11:24
will the crosshairs of a gun
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pištolji moći naciljati
11:26
be able to pick out Karar,
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jednog Karara,
11:29
Malala,
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Malalu,
11:31
Alisha?
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Alishu?
11:34
Can they kill us all?
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Mogu li nas sve ubiti?
11:38
The time is now to stand up,
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Vrijeme je da ustanemo,
11:41
to stand out.
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da se istaknemo.
11:43
Where sameness is safeness,
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Gdje istovjetnost znači sigurnost,
11:45
with something as simple as what we wear,
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nečim jednostavnim poput onoga što nosimo,
11:48
we can draw every eye to ourselves
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na sebe možemo privući svačiju pažnju
11:51
to say that there are differences
in this world, and there always will be.
in this world, and there always will be.
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i reći da u svijetu postoje različitosti
i uvijek će postojati.
i uvijek će postojati.
11:56
Get used to it.
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Naviknite se na to.
11:58
And this we can say without a single word.
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I to možemo reći bez ijedne riječi.
12:01
Fashion can give us
a language for dissent.
a language for dissent.
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Moda nam omogućuje izražavanje neslaganja.
12:05
It can give us courage.
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Ona nam može dati snagu.
12:07
Fashion can let us literally wear
our courage on our sleeves.
our courage on our sleeves.
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Moda nam doslovce pruža mogućnost
nošenja naše hrabrosti na rukavima.
nošenja naše hrabrosti na rukavima.
12:13
So wear it.
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Nosite je.
12:16
Wear it like armor.
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Nosite je poput oklopa.
12:18
Wear it because it matters.
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Nosite je jer je bitno.
12:21
And wear it because you matter.
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Nosite je jer ste vi bitni.
12:23
Thank you.
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Hvala.
12:24
(Applause)
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(Pljesak)
ABOUT THE SPEAKER
Kaustav Dey - Fashion revolutionaryKaustav Dey leads marketing for Tommy Hilfiger in India.
Why you should listen
Kaustav Dey has always been fascinated by the role of fashion as a vehicle for protest, both in his own life and in the fashion industry. He believes that fashion has played a key role in counterculture history -- and that now more than ever, we need to fight censorship and repression with fashion.
Dey earned a bachelor's degree in electrical and electronics engineering from Madras University in Chennai, and he holds an MBA in marketing and communications from MICA in Ahmedabad, India. He loves fashion, food and his six dogs.
Kaustav Dey | Speaker | TED.com